Slack Lack - The Lack Enclosure with Sliding Pocket Doors

by nnorton00 Mar 11, 2019
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I must just be thick, since no one else has asked...

Why 12 magnets? As far as I can tell, there's only the 8 for the door - 2 on each top and bottom on the doors, and 2 each top and bottom on the inside connection points.

Can you tell me what the clearance is between the doors? I'm looking at printing this for my Maker Select V2.1 and want to make sure I could still slide the doors back with it in place.

Has anyone got a (temporary) solution for mounting the filament spool within the enclosure?

Is it not possible to print this in PLA? I have tried a number of times and the hinges just do not work. I cannot get the two halves of he hinge to fit together. Either the pin OD is too big, or the door side of hinge is to small ID. Has anyone else run into this problem?

Yeah at first my hinges didn't fit together, either. I increased the inner radius of the hollow cylinders to 4.75 mm and that seems to work, but it's still a little tight. I haven't put it all together yet so I don't know if the adjustment is good enough with the doors but I think it will be.

I am currently waffling between doing this or changing them to a pin style with a M3 or M4 screw. It would stay together better when removing them entirely but might wear down one of the joints after a while.

Thanks for the reply Squishy. How did you adjust that radius?

There should be a file called "EnclosureAllPartsExport.zip." That has the .step files for all the parts so you can edit the dimensions in a CAD software. I used Fusion 360 and just used offset to increase the inner radius of all the hinges. I'm still new to CAD so if I can do it it's pretty easy.

I'm having a nightmare with this. Is there a Fusion tutorial that helps with the steps to change the radius?

I'm not sure if there is a tutorial, but I can give you some step-by-step instructions.
Open Fusion 360 then click File>Open EnclosureAllPartsExport.STEP. There should be list of all the parts on the left side of the screen. Hide all the parts except the ones with hollow cylinders by clicking the eyes next to the names of the parts on this list. Click on the inside of one of the cylinders so the inside is highlighted, click Modify>Offset Face (or use shortcut "s" to bring up a search and type in "Offset face") then type in 4.75 mm or whatever size works for you. Once you've done that to all of them, right click on the parts' names then "save as STL."

Thanks, that's what I did (via Press Pull, seems it auto-selects the right tool depending on your selection) after watching the Autodesk tutorial and learning the basics.

How hard would this be to combine with the V2 enclosure? I really want pocket doors, but tall or opening top would be great for MMU2.

Great idea. Why are the screws on the outside for the top front left and right risers, given the rear ones are on the inside? Is there really not enough space between the leg and the doors when sliding them in? Looks like there's a bit of a gap.

Did you find the paving slab made much difference?

How much clearance have you got above the printer? I've just fitted a Dual Z kit which adds a couple cm.

Any chance of a remix/update with an extra set of doors on the left side, for easy access to change the filament/alter or repair the printer?


How did you get your filament to your printer? I finally got most of the table ready (YAY :D) and I was just curious as I just recently fitted my Ender 3 with a direct drive setup

Just used one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1895060

With your choice of spool holder up top.

IKEA Lack Filament Guide

Thanks for the info! i'm actually creating one of my own (giving myself a project to do in Fusion360)

I'm currently trying to find the best (easiest to assemble) lack enclosure for my Ender 3. I like that yours has both the Catch and that I don't have to screw the plexi to the spacers. Maybe I'm just really tired right now, but how do the bottom spacers (Front_Spacer, .._BL, .._BR, .._2) attach to the legs?

There is an existing hole in the leg. You screw directly into the bottom of it. See the BOM, or see the original Prusa build guide: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure/

Thanks for the quick response, I'm pretty sure I've finally set myself to build this design with a few modifications. Just have to wait until I can source and afford the plexiglass to build it.

Is this right ? is it so wanted or has something to adjust there?

There is some overhang, but that looks a little excessive. The leg looks like it might be upside down? Its not going to affect function though.

Same here.

The parts you designed expect the Lack poles to be 49 by 49.
The Lack poles i've got here have edge length between 50,5 and 50,8

If your design is parametric a 50+ version would be greatly appreciated ;)

Hi there, thanks for the great design. I'm about 90% done printing the parts and am excited to put this together. It's been about five days of printing so far and I'm almost out of my first reel of material (750g). Wish I would have figured out the magnet source first...looks like finding that size may be difficult in the US. I think the design intends for a magnet at each of the the rectangular insets. Do you happen to have a source you could recommend? Thank you!

Hi I would Like to modify this to fit my polycarbonate sheets I have. The dimensions are 5.82 mm thick, 3 side sheets are 440.531mm x 440.531mm, and the 2 doors are 440.531mm x 219.868mm. Would it be possible to edit the files to work with these size sheets? Editing all of the corners to be shorter, then edit all slots larger but the hinge spacing would need to be edited to clear the thicker sheets. Do you think this is feasible? Thanks let me know

I don't think that would be a problem. All of the original files are uploaded in a zip folder in step format for you to modify at your convenience.

I am having the HARDEST time trying to get the hinges to come out right. I made some out a different material (one in PETG, and one in PLA) and the barrels and the hinge parts refuses to fit together. Is there another design that doesn't rely on having a perfectly tuned printer?

Sorry you're having such a tough time of it. I've uploaded all the files in a zip as step files so you can modify them as you need to get it to work. Best of luck.

Would you be able to post the rest of the STEP files for people who are using different size plexiglass? I was able to get ahold of some 3/16" thick glass from my work for free so I really don't want to have to buy all new plexiglass for this.

See the most recent update.

Thank you so much! You just saved me so much money and modeling time!

Anyone figured out what type of screws you need? The Prusa guide doesn't specifically say what type to get and there are many conflicting comments on the model

The ones I used are in the summary.

Purchase Parts Needed:

Magnets 20x6x1.5mm Qty 12 (These were easier for me to find than the magnets sourced by the Prusa group)
Screws 6x50mm Qty 8
Screws 5x20mm Qty 14 (These were also easier to source, you'll need 2 more if you use my remote PSU bracket)
Plexiglass 3x450x492mm Qty 3
Plexiglass 3x214x492mm Qty 2

Also did you use wood screws? I can't find any that is 5x20mm

All of them are wood screws. The 6mm are countersunk, the 5mm are round/domed.

Thanks for the info! I went ahead and brought some screws from Aamzon but my 6mm screws are countersunk too.. is it necessary for them to be round/domed?

6mm are supposed to be countersunk, so I'm assuming you meant 5mm? It will likely pose a problem as all of those holes sit flush. Look at the design again and you'll understand what I mean.

Is 3mm thickness for the panes needed? I just purchased some panes (have yet to print out the parts) and just found out that they are 0.08in (~2mm) instead of 3

2mm should be ok, you could also print shims. I've also provided an update if you would like to check that out.

Could you send the model of the shims, please? I have honestly no clue what that is <_>

And yay, I just got the acrylic from the store the other day

I got a question. How do the electronics hold up being inside the enclosure? I'm in the process of gathering the parts for the enclosure and I heard some saying that the electronics all need to be outside the enclosure (besides the power supply). The only high temp filaments I'm doing is PETG atm. I'm curious I should mount my electronics on the outside or not

PSU is mounted underneath the enclosure, see my other files for the mount. Everything else has been fine.

Comments deleted.

No Hinge pieces fit for me..... Impossible to insert. Try hard actualy to post-traitment to fit the piece!

Likely one of two problems. First is that the printer's steps are dialed in exactly. Second is that the filament you're using doesn't have the best dimensional stability, ie it has a lot of shrinkage after it cools.

I calibrate all my axe and it's stable. I repeat a print with all adjustment with same issue... I use Cctree PLA... maybe that!

Nice! Post a make once you're done!

Just wanted to say thanks for letting download your work...printed everything... going to start assembling the enclosure tonight just have one question...Screws 6x50mm Qty 8 and Screws 5x20mm Qty 14 are these self tapping? Also I have exploded assembly View and I'm not seeing where the screws go I know it's probably pretty obvious to you but is there anyway you can post where the screws are supposed to go thanks again

Check out the build guide for the original Lack Enclosure, it should answer any questions. Cheers.

I like the concept. I acknowledge the engineering that went into designing the sliding and pivoting doors.
...but what holds it down? What keeps it stable on top of another Lack?

It is hard to see based on the images available here. Can you provide some close-ups of the corners? It looks like the legs are not flush with the extenders/corner joins. If you look at the primary pic in the gallery the right back corner leg seems to stick out? I also wonder why the front right has a plastic section on the outside and not the inside? Aesthetically would it be best to keep all screw tab sections on the inside?

Great work! Can you tell me what the inner distance is between the doors when they are tucked away in the pockets? Just wondering if my printer would fit.

425mm wide, 240mm back from the front. Behind that, its the full width of the lack table, 540mm roughly.

Why not just combine the files for the front doors so that it doesn't look so janky?

Do you have files for the other pieces that are combined like this? I think I would prefer the parts to combined like this as well.

I used the customizer to make one of the three pieces that I joined together to make that one part. Then I lined them up and joined them together in Tinkercad. If you are going to use the same magnets as me, I can provide the rest. I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPX36YX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you have to remix the door stop? I already printed out the door stop and I don't have too much filament left so I don't want to have to reprint the model

Thank you! You can find my remix of the door frames here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3615283

SlackLack Solid Door Frames
by budge72

did you enlarge the barrel holes at all or are they same size as the original?

No prob! And thanks!

Yes that would be great! I have the same exact size magnets

Can you please link the screws? I cant find them on amazon or home-depo sites

If you're having trouble finding metric threads in the US. This conversion chart may be helpful.


Do the magnets have to be neodynium? I ordered some 20x5x2mm magnets from Amazon. I'm not sure how strong they are.

Hello, Nice design. I modded the magnet part to fit a 20X10X2mm magnet, but I need to fit a 2.5mm panel on front. I found some 3mm panel (grey smoked) for the side, but no 3mm clear. can you provide the file or modify them? thanks

Have you modified how the cabling to the print bed goes? If I place the printer far enough back so the bed doesn't hit the doors when it's all the way front, the bed wires hit the back window when it's all the way back. If I move it forward so it doesn't hit the back window, the bed hits the front doors.

I'm having the same issue. And I'm not talking about bed clips hitting...it's the actual bed heating wires. I have a cable chain on my bed heating cables and the mount for the bed is hitting the back wall before coming to the Y stop. I may have to design a shorter one to make it fit or give up the cable chain. And I already moved my y stop forward as much as I care to.

I had printed links but was running into the same problem as you. So I ended up taking them all off except for the first piece attached to the bed (to prevent the heater wires from breaking). The wires hit the back but not enough to prevent the bed from sitting all the way back.

No modding of the cables. I use tape on my glass bed instead of clips so that I can position the printer as close to the front as possible. That being said, when Y is at 0 one of the links do come in contact with the rear plexi but just barely. This is an issue you'll have with any lack enclosure. If it bothers you, you could always move your y end stop up a cm or two to get extra clearance.

My compliments, good idea

Any chance of getting all of the parts as STEP? I'd like to make a couple of changes.

How come we are printing the Front-Space- TL and TR sideways? Seems like straight up would be easier. Is it so the slider piece will be as smooth as possible?

You would need supports on the sliding section if you changed the orientation. Dimensional accuracy is more important with those than surface finish. It slides very easily in this orientation.

Just so you know, the customizing the parts changes the orientation of the Front_SpacerTR and TL. The user needs to manually rotate it back from what I'm reading above.

Do you have a map of sorts so I can see what goes where? I want to print this in sections but I'm struggling trying to figure out what goes with what without printing everything and piecing it together. Like, for the upper spacers, I just need Spacer_TB x 2, Front_Spacer_TL, Front_Spacer_TR, and 4 catches with the hole find to place the catches?

You only need the 4 catches and the hole finder for the bottom. The enclosure lifts off the bottom lack table the same way the original does. For the top, you drill directly into the existing holes in the Lack top surface. Give me a bit and I'll make an exploded view.


  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Exploded view added. You can see it on the thing page, or in the zip file for a higher resolution image.

This is fantastic BTW, thanks. Should be pretty simple but a nice visual always helps.

I'm having trouble printing the hinges. What are the diameter of the hing rods supposed to be? I'm measuring approx 9mm whereas the hole for the hing only measures approx 8.5mm. I've made slight adjustments to my printing parameters but am still unable to get the parts to fit together

The hole for the hinge should measure 9.1mm. The hing rods measure 9mm. This was enough to give me a slight amount of friction to not turn on their own, but loose enough that I can easily turn them by hand.

Have you printed a calibration cube?

Calibration cube seems right. negative tolerance test shows that anything less than 0.3 won't work for me. So since the design is only for a tolerance of 0.1 that could be why. I noticed that the slots to hold the plexiglass is printing too small aswell. Any chance you could share the models for the entire design so I can modify them to work with my printer? I've gone through a ton of filament already trying to get this printed correctly, I really don't want to waste anymore...

I've been struggling with this part too. I've done calibration cubes, and not too long ago (I may do another to check, since I don't think I've done a PETG calibration cube), but my hinges are definitely off. About 8.85mm on the hole, and getting about 8.98mm on the pin. So backwards from where I need to be. :)

I'm probably going to try sanding it down and going from there.

I tried sanding but it's just too tight of a space to get it accurate. I ended up having to adjust the modes for almost every part of the hinge system. I ended up having to make the pole 8.4mm in diameter and increasing the diameter of the hinge to 9.3 this allowed for whatever shrinkage. Additionally, the space between the pole and the wall was too thin to fit the hinge so I had to push that back ~0.3mm. Everything printed much better then and the hinges fit in perfectly. This enclosure is a great design, but the sizing of the parts don't allow for much variation in print quality.

Is it possible for you to share your modification to this design?


I honestly gave up on printing the original design and went with something different. I can see if I can find the modified hinges on my computer

I loved this design, so decided to go with this model.
However, after one night of printing some parts, I think I'm encountered the same issue with RayGobot. Those printed barrels just won't fit into the poles. Those barrels were very tight and impossible to push into the pole. Maybe it's my printer setting?

I'm wondering how you extended the power cable from the PSU to the printer in order to place it outside of the enclosure.

I bought some XT60 connectors and made an extension with some 14gauge wire.

It seems to be practically impossible to find magnets that will fit this in Canada (or they're almost $30)
Is there a chance you could edit the magnet holes to fit 20x6x3mm or 10x5x2?

Unfortunately, Amazon.de is a pain to order from in Canada, the ebay link and the 2nd aliexpress option costs almost $30CAD and the 1st seller doesn't ship to Canada.

I've searched everywhere for the sizes and it's not easy here. If you were to upload the object files, I can edit them for the magnets I can find here if that's less work for you.

I couldn't export to object files, so I exported them to step files. They are uploaded in MagnetExport.zip. When you're sizing your magnets double check on the pull strength of the magnets, don't go too big, the ones I use are 1kg and are just about perfect. Let me know if you need any other assistance. Cheers.

Thanks for posting these! I'm working on making parametric versions, this will help a ton!

Thank you! This is great. I can modify these in Fusion360 to fit the magnets I can get.

Hope it works out! Let me see how it turns out! Add a remix for others!

I have been looking for and trying to decide on which Lack parts to make my cabinet build with and this just jumped to the top of the list. Thank you for this design. I do have a question though...how much height does it add to the legs? I have a Maker Select with the extended height Z brace and need to make sure it will still fit. Thanks, Bob.......Never mind I just read your notes on the build....sometimes I need to read before asking the obvious..LOL

Did everything fit for you? I'm looking to put my V2.1 in this and was going to extend the z height, but also wanted to make sure the doors stil slide in with this printer.

Hi Bob, glad I was able to answer your question in advance! Thanks for the compliments, hope to see your make posted soon!

Comments deleted.

It may take a bit....just 10 minutes ago got my first 2 Lack tables and have decided to stack 5 total.....so need to purchase 3 more and cut some legs down, awaiting my order of black filament, and then....one thing leads to another

This looks amazing and I would love to build it. Is there any way to get a version for 1/8 inch plexi?

3mm is .118" and is very close to .125" I think it might even fall within the range of tolerance for Plexi. Print one of the small pieces and see if it will work for you.