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Super Simple Flexy-Gimbal

by Gyrobot, published

Super Simple Flexy-Gimbal by Gyrobot May 31, 2014

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15731Views 1905Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

Summary

A pitch and roll gimbal, born from the idea of the "Super Simple Gimbal" by crezzee over on rcgroups
However as you can see, it is a different configuration with the "muscles" (2x9g servo's) behind the camera allowing for a super low profile design. Ideal for attaching to my Spyda 500 Quadcopter design.

In this way the camera can be tilted 90 deg to look directly down as you can see in the images.

The white components are printed from flexible filament. I use FilaFlex elastic filament from Recreus. This adds the benefit of isolating the camera from the frame vibrations and reduce the "Jello" effect.

Video of 1st flight : http://youtu.be/3YsO_PlHaEI
Video of camera stabilisation with APM 2.5 : http://youtu.be/O-t6QLfsSHY
Video of first test via TX : http://youtu.be/B533l5o7bSo
http://www.gyrobot.co.uk
http://www.facebook.com/gyrobotuk

Instructions

Print without support, however, the Bump Guard has two tiny pieces of support modelled which need to be snipped off. They are below the attachment lugs for the white Filaflex strap.
To remove the GoPro, stretch the retaining strap rearwards over the back of the camera and push upwards from underneath using a finger through the hole in the base of the bump guard.
There are two brackets to attach to the Spyda 500, one each of the DeeJayEye arm and Crossfire arm plate versions. Choose which one suits your needs.
There are various patches and settings for various flight controller boards to enable the servos to drive the camera correctly. A good place to start would be : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1793759
One caveat for live FPV, you will need a low profile GoPro AV lead like the one shown in the picture, to fit under the flexy arms.

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Hello, is possible to connect a gopro camera to ardupilot and send image to user via radio? If so please provide me a link or smth. Thank you.

Hmmm...didint notice before...but why does your flexy strap have TWO runners?

Hey I made this last year, but other projects kept me from tackling the assembly. I scored a pile of servos, but it turns out that because I had to crank up my filament feed, my tendon is now too thick and stiff to flex. Can you please print me one and Ill pay for it?
I dont think I have the patience to sit through another printer babysitting session to try again. UNLESS...you know of a way I can thin the blades...sanding...solvents..?
Thanks

Hey. I got one to print!! YAY. Afterwards I did the strap too, and its much cleaner. I ran it between 40 and 50%, changing it a few times during the print. I saw a tip about printing with flexible filament from a guy on youtube from sweden, he put a light coat of oil on the filament to keep it from dragging inside the tube. I guess one of the biggest issues is the 2.85mm size versus the 3mm tube. If I print another one i will have to lower the flow rate, because the dogbone feels pretty stiff, and the grooves are not wide enough to slip over their respective ridges in the clamps, and the bottom groove is almost solid. I dont kow how bendy its supposed to be. But as it was my first flexy print success, I am not complaining. Thanks a lot for your innovative design. Do you think that since the KK had to be altered for this to work, that I will not be able to use a stock Naza to operate it? BTW, I was just at your blog. You have HUGE fingers according to the photo. Hehheh

Does anyone have any tips on how I should print the flexy? I am using Filaflex Red. I tried their settings of 210-225/ 35C. Material stopped flowing even though I tried raising flow rate to 170% and slowing print down to 50%. Thanks. Great design Gyrodog.

Check out my blog, you may find some tips useful here:

http://www.gyrobot.co.uk/blog/how-to-3d-print-with-flexible-filaments

Upping the flow rate will cause excess pressure in the nozzle and can/will lead to buckling depending on the speed you are trying to force the filament into the hot end.

Temperature range is 220-240 so start at 240 initial until good flow is achieved, and reduce the temperature for a less "foamy" look but if you reduce the temp, the molten filament thickens and pressure increases so slow down.

Layer height can make a difference, too thick and the material has to flow faster so with a 0.4mm nozzle, cap your layer height to 0.3mm or less. I use 0.25mm.

It's all a delicate balance between speed, temp, layer height, flow rate, all determining the pressure in the hot end. It's like juggling cats, but start reservedly with all the 4 inputs and you will start to get good prints.

Cheers,
Gyrobot.

Hi.

IM printing it complete for a cam like go pro. Any possibility to put a third servo for turn right and left?

For this option, I would just yaw the quadcopter, so I don't feel it is necessary.

There seem to be a few different straps in your images, is the .stl posted here the latest one?

Good spot that was iterative design in action. The first two in the images required too much force to remove the camera. The version I uploaded the stl for was the perfect version for ease of removal yet still retained the camera perfectly. Thank you for printing, I eagerly await the results ;-).

Built and uploaded a pic! Really love this design again, everything fit together beautifully except for the gopro and the case, guess my printer's outputting a bit small or something. Going to try re-printing just that part and see what happens. Haven't had a chance to do a flight test, and might be a little heavy for my Hovership but we'll see.

Really lovely design. Printing the ninjaflexy bits out now... slooooooowly

Looks amazing, I will print this on one of our Felix 3.0 printers. I was wondering which servo's did you exactly use (brand etc.)

Hi, I bought New Power XL-09HM-01which is an analogue 9g servo with metal gears from my local hobby shop.
Here is the New Power range : http://www.4-max.co.uk/servos-new-power.htm

I originally used the cheaper plastic geared version, but after a hard landing (re:crash ;-) the momentum of the camera stripped some gears inside the servo. I have had no issues (or crashes) since. The camera survived without any problem too so other good thing about this gimbal is that it is good for shock absorpsion

Thanks, we will definitely try this out and post the results !

This is way cool! The Spyda and the gimbal are hands down the most fun thing I've printed. Ive been using a older camera for FPV, but want to switch to GoPro to get some better footage. May I ask for some details on you connected the camera to your system?

I've been looking for a live camera setup to mount on a quadcopter. Could you tell me what setup you're using to get that live video feed from the quadcopter's onboard camera?

Can you give some information on your print settings, especially for the flexible parts, like infill, number of contours etc. ? Thanks alot!

Sure, for Filaflex :
; generated by Slic3r 0.9.9-dev on 2014-06-16 at 10:30:51
; layer_height = 0.3
; perimeters = 3
; top_solid_layers = 4
; bottom_solid_layers = 2
; fill_density = 0.25
; perimeter_speed = 40
; infill_speed = 50
; travel_speed = 100
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.30mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.30mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.24mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.24mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.30mm
PLA :
; layer_height = 0.2
; perimeters = 2
; top_solid_layers = 2
; bottom_solid_layers = 2
; fill_density = 0.3
; perimeter_speed = 40
; infill_speed = 50
; travel_speed = 100
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.20mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.20mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.14mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.14mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.20mm

I tried it with Ultimaker Flex PLA, but no luck, its not flexible enough. I've ordered some FilaFlex now.

Ok good stuff, I look forward to seeing the upload ;-)
Print Filaflex without heated bed at 220-240 deg. 240deg makes FFX runnier and less force required to push, so higher speeds can be achieved, but the surface finish is a bit better at 220 and slower. One question, are you actually printing on an Ultimaker? If so you may have problems with a bowden due to high compression, but it is possible.

Yupp, its an ultimaker. I plan to print veeery slowly :)

Again another excellent design ! Just love the idea ...

HOT!!! Love the Flexy strap idea for left to right movement....now if only someone would make a base plate for the poor man' go-pro, the mobius actioncam...;)

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