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OneIdMONstr

UFO Abduction Lamp with blinking lights

by OneIdMONstr Mar 15, 2019
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It's a great idea! Even NOT JUST for this story about cow!)))

This is F-ing awesome!

Best thing i have ever seen.

How did you get the gif in the thumbnail to work?
Also nice design mate

Just drag and drop it in. Its buggy... The gif does not work on the model page but in the other sections of the homepage if you search for the model for example.
Thanks.

I was wondering what range the potentiometer needs to be obviously 5m ohm is the upper limit but how low does it need to be? thanks.

Mine is from 100Ohm to 5m Ohm

Looking for the Glass Cylinder? This looks to be a good option. 80mm is approx 3in. Comes in many lengths where 6-8 inches looks about right. I'm opting for the 3x8 inch cylinder.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NYZQSJB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?pd_rd_i=B07NYZ5R9Z&pd_rd_w=b6z8Z&pf_rd_p=80559f3c-f83b-49c1-8a72-40f936e9df7a&pd_rd_wg=qEsxV&pf_rd_r=M13FCEX78ZX6Y2RWJCYS&pd_rd_r=d76660a3-588b-11e9-8fee-2b0771c23e42&th=1

18$? Jesus... i have paid 2€ in a dollarstore in germany (Kik) for the cylinder. :/

I may steal this idea, remix it a little with extra scenery, maybe use a dotstar strip/Teensy for the ship lights. Awesome project though, nice work!

And may post a picture of the finished result... :) Thanks!

Вот где цилиндр найти....

я использовал имитацию лавовой лампы по типу такой (2 и 4 вариант). Как вариант, посмотреть химические цилиндры.

Нашел контору, продающую на отрез акриловую трубу, стенка 1,5 мм.

Банку возьмите, отверстие в крышке сделайте, да на крышку наклейте)))

lol why did you tag nsfw

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Thanks for pointing out... Dont know how this happend...

Love this. And the comments! Always inspiring to see makers supporting one another.

I noticed a small wire armature on your cow and it got me thinking about adding a small DC motor into the base to rotate the cow!

What would the correct wiring from the motor to the Arduino be? Is there Arduino code that could make it turn at different speeds or would a pot be better or some sort of gear reduction?

How much space is there for the width of the glass cylinder ? I've found one with 70mm (outside) and 65mm (inside) in width .
Otherwise, very nice project ;-) Thanks a lot.

Looking at the stl, the max outside perimeter is about 80mm, while the min inside perimeter is about 72mm. So scale everything up by about 13% and it should work.

Wow great work and implementation, as well as great description !! just great!

Love the design. I'm a huge CoasttocoastAM fan, so this is definitely a project I plan to make. First thing is to go shopping for the glass tube.

no, the chaser doesnt, its just 12 leds chasing up and down a row with a timer you can adjust, i saw you can make yours do more from the schematic. Its a nice build.

Not saying that you stole the design, but if you were inspired by Lasse Klein design, credit should be given. https://laughingsquid.com/the-alien-abduction-lamp-by-lasse-klein/

I was inspired by the countless abduction lamps out there (pinterest -> "abduction lamp"). I was not aware that Lasse Klein was the first one who came up with this design.

I kinda like the version for the soap dish, it's for sure not a new concept.

love this , why did you go with a nano set up for the leds, there are plenty of chaser kits on ebay for 99 cents that would do 99% of the jobs of the leds with a little thought unless you have them doing all sorts of things i'm not aware of

The lamp has 3 modes. All lights on, "rotating motion" and changing between every second one. The mode, and speed of the "rotating motion", is chosen depending on the position of the potentiometer on the back. Im not sure if a simple chaser kid can be programmed with this features. Other than that i had some nanos lie around so i chose this setup.

Outstanding!
Now..... ..... how do we get the cow magnetically suspended? ;-)

Love it! However, you could greatly simplify the wiring by using WS2012 RGB leds. In case you aren't familiar with these, they are daisy chained together and can be individually addressed from a single pin. You have control over intensity and color of each individual LED. One LED animation that I've done before that would look really sweet on this model is to cycle up and down through the intensity so that you get a pulsing light rather than a sharp blink.

Other than that, it's an awesome "Thing". Great work!

LOVE IT!!!

Great Design! Creative!

Good Work!

Great idea, I have looked at it a few times now and it makes me smile every time.
Just a really clever idea for a lamp. Super impressed.
Thanks for sharing.

You could remove the shift register all together as you are already using transistors to power the led arrays. Just use more of the digital ports on the arduino instead.

So amazing! I want to make it for my dad's birthday! Haha! :) Never done Arduino before though.

First of all sorry for the long post, but i love your design and need to share with you what i'm doing for my build of your beautiful design.

It's so funny how you used a glass cilinder to encapsulate a tractor beam that is grabbing a cow of the grass. Therefore i've embarked on building your design but with a few tweaks you might like yourself ;)
First mine is 15% bigger as i could only find a bigger cilinder with a diameter of 9cm's, but that is not to worry about.

The design of the saucer with the lights as bar's reminder me of the movie "Close encounters of the third kind" and therefore i decided it needs to be RGB capable with the 5 notes tone build in. I'll be using WS2812B led's on s strip so that i can control al 24 led's from one pin for the rim and use a strip of 3 or 6 led's to shine on the cow. Have not decided yet on that part.

As for the operation i'm thinking of mode 1: silent running with similar to yours blue chasing effect on the rim.
mode 2: (push of button in the saucer), stop the chaser effect and play the 5 tones, with corresponding colors on the rim. (once or twice maybe with different speeds in tones)
mode 3: same as mode 1, but with multicolor on the rim (because we can)

As for progress, i've printed the base, made the grass from a green wash cloth and installed the cow. Have the cilinder, and have printed the led ring. with in my case an adapter ring to guide it to an even smaller ring that has the spacing of the led strip. (first tried cutting all led's and soldering them back together in your ring, but that ended in malfunctioning led's.) Currently printing the bottom saucer, and then need to do the top. (only thinking of wanting to split the top so that the middle can be opened (hold on with magnets) so that i can still access the arduino for software changes.

The idea with the open top is great. Im planing to build a second one with some kind of smoke effect with incense or something similar. And maybe hang the cow on a thin fishing string with a small motor to rotate it. I will definitly leave the top open to access the electronics.

Im looking forward for your result! :)

You could drive a transistor like 2n2222 with the outputs of the arduino and shift-register for the leds. This way a current up to 600mA per channel is possible. So if you assume a current of 20mA for an LED there are a lot of lights you can use without risking your arduino/shift-register ;^)
If you haven't already got it from anyone else just let me know and I'll draw you the schematics.

I have updated the schematics with 2N7000 transistors and 2kOhm resistors. Can you check them?

Basically I'd say it's okay. There is one little thing I would do differently, but that's just cosmetic. Instead of using a resistor for every LED I would use just one for every group. And be aware that the 2N7000 has a maximum current of 115mA. So if you have six LEDs with 20mA each in one group (6x20mA=120mA) it'll probably blow, even if you would cool it. That's why I prefer the 2N2222 for my circuits.

Just a note about the schematic: bias across the B-E junction here is very small (Vo - the LED Vf, probably less than 1V); with some transistors, maybe barely enough to turn the transistor on. Also, you're powering all the LEDs through the Arduino's power supply. Instead, consider powering the LEDs from the 7V input power (adjust your dropping resistor to compensate), and connect the B-E junction directly to ground with the LEDs and their dropping resistors upstream. Then you can be sure of full saturation with the transistors on and dramatically reduce the Arduino's power dissipation at the same time.

I would also recommend giving each LED its own dropping resistor unless you just don't have room. Yes, it works if you share them, but the weakest LED will be doing all of the work. If it burns out, the next-weakest LED will step up and take the abuse.

Awesome-looking build, by the way!

You're right, power for the LEDs should come from an external source and the LEDs should be on the collector-side. I've missed that. Stupid, but that happens when you're not watching closely. As for the resistors ... I thinks it's okay to use just one resistor if you don't buy the cheapest LEDs you can find, but with todays prices it wouldn't hurt to use seperate ones ;)

Thanks for the advice guys! Im still waiting for my transistors to arrive.. -_- I will update the schematics after the final wiring. I have noticed that with 6 LEDs and only one resitor the brightness of the LEDs is not evenly.

I have updated the schematics again. That should do the trick now. crossing thumbs

and again, it looks really awesome!

Looks Great! I would like to try making one, but instead of using the 74HC595, what if I used all 14 output pins of the Nano? I could modify the code to drive two leds per pin, that way there could be a gap of 7 "off" LEDs between the "on" LEDs, and the animation could run faster. If all goes well, not all of the LEDs will be on at once, so the Nano will not exceed its 200mA total current rating. I love the use of glass in this thing!