Cute Mini Octopus

by McGybeer Mar 16, 2019
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First of all... my girlfriend loves them! I think they're pretty cool too.
Both that I have printed have what looks like a missing layer in the top of the head. Does anybody else have this problem, or know what it could be?

Hi, I'm just wondering why this is tagged as NSFW?

do you have a duel extrusion for the bottom or did you do something else?

We've already talked about that. Find below a copy of the message:

1- Most slicers have a "pause at height" or similar function, so you can print the first layers with one color, and then pause the print and change the filament.
2- If you like the risk, as I do, you can start the print with one color and then cut the filament and introduce a different one in the extruder. If you do it properly, the color change will be quick and painless. I've been using this technique in a lot of prints.

Good luck!!

I've gotten two nice looking prints, but neither have moveable legs. I'm guessing it's an issue with my slicer. Any suggests on some better settings?

Have printed 3 of them in the "circular" shape you added. Works like a charm on my Adventurer3

Will try to print again. The mouth didn't come out correctly on the underside. Will try again soon and hope for the best! Adorable!

Brilliant toy! Thanks for sharing! :)

Great design! Our pre-kindergarten class is going to love these. I print something specifically for them during open house so the parents can see what our lab is capable of and it gives the pre-k class something to look forward to when they start having computer class the following school year.

great design, love it have printed in a variety of colors.

Used this in something I was requested to make by a friend;


I’ve yet to get one of these to print. No idea why, tried a couple of the .stl files, but first pass is always bad. Missing sections of legs
Glass bed tried from 60-65 printing head 200-206 no luck.

What's the smallest anyone has tried printing and still had the joints move freely? I'm trying one at 50% now but bumped down to .10 layers and slowed it down a bit. Printing with generic pla

I love it, thankyou!

Any chance there will ever be a version with a bigger inner diameter (ID >50mm)?
I would very much like to use this as an alternate to my current trailer hitch cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2554598

Just scaling up sadly doesn't work, my MK3S is not big enough :-/

Cheshire Cat - hitch cover

The current inner hole is 18mm in diameter. If you scale it up by 2.78x it will be right on 50mm. If you want a bit of freedom, scaling it by factor 3 gives you a 54mm hole. At factor 3 he measures 34 cm across, which should look really cool hanging down the hitch.

Been there tried that, my Prusa MK3S is too small for this (scaling with 2.5 works 'just so').
I just hope McGybeer reads this and can be bothered to create a stl with an inner hole of 20mm, would really be great.

... currently printing the fifth or sixth of the cheshire cats (see above), in red this thing seems to be very popular here 8-O

THANKYOU but please allow me to be a "really annoying guy from the internet" and could I please request the spiral-Version too?
Thing is that the straight one is too big too :-(

the annoying guy just hugs you and will report back!

THANKS again!

quick update:

  • the spiral-one was still too big after scaling up to 2.6 (two appendages at Y-MIN and Y-MAX are just over the limit)
  • also I didn't mention '...spiral_support...'

some annoying guy (yours truly) did not dare to ask for stl and decided to:
-) install meshmixer (Linux Mint 18.x LTS here) under WINE
-) grok how meshmixer actually works ("Enable basic rendering", until then I could'nae see anything of the part, hah...)
-) figure out how to scale
-) amputate / "move" aforementioned appendages (let's see if I can re-attach them somehow, my dremel is ...ready... ;-) )
-) add support "just for the nose"

... anyway: learned quite something, currently the printer's at "remaining 17hr" of ~20 total and it looks good so far.

/will post a pic of the print applied to our hitch (the cat and the octopus both)
//next: print another one with either "glow in the dark" or "fire-engine-red"


I have a Prusa Mk2S, and very quickly noticed its size limitations. I now use a CR-10 for big prints, as it has a build volume of 400mm cubed, and otherwise I use the Prusa. The Prusa is a better printer, but the CR-10 does print big thigs, and I regularly print things over 30cm tall, so it has its use.

As I tell my wife regularly, "You can never have enough different printers."

An octopus' mouth (beak) is at the center of the tentacles, on the bottom in this case. Since the mouth is the only part that requires supports and it should not even be seen, why not just eliminate it from the model? I don't think it would be missed. I plan to print it and cut the mouth tube off. Thanks for your work so far.

My intention was to design a cute octopus, not a realistic one. So I got inspiration from takoyaki adds, which I really like.
Anyway, there is a remix that already removed the mouth, so you can download it if that's what you are looking for.
Thanks for your feedback!!

The "mouth" is the round thing in between and just below the eyes.

Anyone have a Harry potter remixed version? (Glasses and lightening bolt?)

Thanks so much! This helps me alot!!! so much fun , i am super excited to print this

i love this! And already printed some of them :)
can you make one with longer arms?

Thank you :D

I've planned it, but I'm really busy at work right now. But it's in my TO-DO list ;)

Printed with a Da Vinci 1.0 Pro. Printed at .3 layer height, 15% infill, 30 mm/s, hatchbox abs red. I printed the model with the built-in support for the mouth at the size the .stl file was, the joints were a bit rough but the quality was 7/10. I then printed it with the same settings but at the maximum build size I could print, it was about 3 times the size of the original model. This time the quality was a lot better and the joints were flawless. My slicer is xyzware pro, not the greatest but i was happy with both prints.

Excellent piece of work. Prints perfectly and practically dances off the buildplate. Grandchildren loved them.

lol why is this tagged NSFW

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thingiverse has it set up so anyone with a account can add tags. If you look at all the featured things and all the things in the featured collections the NSFW has been added. I do not know who does it or why it is annoying because there is no reason why.

It printed great. Thanks for the idea!!! :-)

Currently printing at 300% on my CR-10s pro. Looks great so far! Thanks for the fun build!

Heres 400%. Had to modify and put together due to using cr10 mini. Added magnets to each leg part also

That looks great!

Wow!! Amazing print!! Is that the bare filament color? Or did you paint them?

Bare filament. No clean up just took off plate and glued together. Putting in the magnets now. Excited to finish it. Posted it under “makes”for other oictures

Hello from the other side


  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

what on earth does that mean

That is the most fun I've had with my printer. :-) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3548855. Someone was asked if I could color the sees and nose. Only if they are separate parts, I guess. Could that be done?

Cute Mini Octopus for two color printer

Turned out great on my Ender3

What settings did you use? What kind of bed do you have? I'm getting kind of crappy adhesion and I've had about 7-1 failed prints on my Ender3. Thanks!!

Fully standard Ender 3 and bed. Cura slicer. Set layer height to 0.2 mm. Used some adhesion spray on the bed.

Awesome!! Thanks. I tried to print one with silk PLA and got some pretty heinous stringing. Do you change your combing settings? Thanks again!!

Turned out nice on my Anet A8 in PLA

I'm not skilled enough, but can anyone mix this cute little critter with the heads from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:584405, both the steampunk and normal one?

Making a Cuttlefish (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692567) or Jellyfish (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692607) version would be cool too, but I think the tentacles would need to be a little longer/have more sections for those variants.

All in all, a CUTE and easy design to print. I love how you can do it all at once and still have an articulated critter!

Kudos to you McGybeer!

Ball-joint articulated octopus
Articulated Cuttlefish! Ball-joint articulated octopus Remix!
Articulated Jellyfish! Ball-joint articulated octopus Remix!

I remixed the steampunk head, also tried it with the normal one however dimensions felt way off (the head is compard to the base way to big so you'd need longer tentacles, which i dont think I'm capable of doing (at least not in blender)). Anyway here's the link to it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551422

steampunk octopus
by jre_

Love the design, but the tentacles need an little bit more spacing or the original size needs to be upgraded about 20%. Still good design needs a little tweaking.

I realy want to print this mini octopus, but this model cannot be sliced with Slic3r PE :-(

Sliced ok for me. It did correct some errors though. You on the latest version?

Now I got it :-). Slicing tooks almost two hours :-)

you can reduce the time by unchecking the "Avoid crossing parameters" option.

I've printed over 20 of those with different colors and material.. they are amazing..

But you have to admit, this is the most annoying print to fail.. you end up with tiny pieces flying everywhere when you scrape the bed.. There's probably dozens of pla confetti around my printer right now..

Thanks for this awesome thing!


Cute Mini Octopus
by hetile

Wow!! That's a lot!! I've printed about 14, and only one print failed. And yes, it was like confetti XD
Thanks for sharing!

Hahaha yeah..

My daughter decided that these would be my color sample (and I agreed).. So I print 2 of those with each filament I have (one at 100% the other at 80% that my daughter systematically steal from the printer before I even have the chance to see them).. I'm about half way thru and I will post a make with all the different one once I'm done :)

I've got many fail but this is NOT a design issue.. I keep on switching filament color, brand, etc.. so it require a bit of tweaking.. And when I forget that I'm using PLA+ and not PLA for a print well.. that ends up in confetti everywhere.. :)

Do you have any tips on keeping the PLA from curling? I've tried to print maybe 15 of these and I've had all but 2 fail. Two worked out but I ended up with a septipus. I've worked out a TON of things. I'm getting great adhesion. I added a skirt with a .01mm clearance (to hold onto the tiny outside feet). I'm z-hopping and avoiding printed objects (to prevent popping segments off the build plate).

To try to avoid the curling, I turned my nozzle temp down, turned the fan to 100%, turned on my ceiling fan :), and slowed it down to about 30mm/s.

Now, I'm popping segments off the build plate because the front of the middle segments curl up before it gets a chance to build the bridge. When it starts building the bridge, it levers the back of the segment off the build plate and eventually it comes loose.


I'm having exact the same problem on my Anycubic I3 Mega.
The two arms on the right side (about 3 and 5 o clock) curl up on the right side where the small brigde is built. Sooner or later, the nozzle crashes against this and pushes the parts from the built plate :-(
Tried several settings and prints, as the problem starts after about an hour, this is very annoying. I know it's caused by my printer settings, but I could not figure out how to solve this.
Could you finally fix this ?

I don't really do anything special, just standard settings for PLA. May it be the printer itself?
I have two printers and I've just had one fail on each (which were my fault, anyway):

  • Hephestos 2: Prusa like printer, direct drive extruder and glass bed. Hair spray for the bed, no rafts, 0.2mm layer, 210ºC hotend, 50mm/s, no z-hop, 1mm retraction.

  • Ender 5 (3 days of use, so still playing with it): Bowden extruder, magnetic flexible bed at 50ºC, no rafts,0.2mm layer, 210ºC hotend, 50mm/s, no z-hop, 5mm retraction.

Yeah, I'm wondering if maybe cooling too fast is what's causing the curling. I feel like I've read both. I noticed it's always failing on the same side. At first, I was like, "oh, the extruder is moving from the inside out on the left side and thus the part gets less time under the fan."

It turns out it's moving from the outside in on that side so that side gets more time under the fan. I'm thinking I could potentially turn the fan down and get less curling. I'm also using 195 on the hot end right now so we'll see if that helps or hurts the curling.

Finally, I am using a mounted external heat dissipation apparatus. We'll see how that works. :)

I've printed 4 and not one has come out perfect. On each one either one of the end limb parts detached from the print or the limb over laps itself at a different angle. I have a prusa mk3. Any advice for a perfect print without brim support?

I finally managed to successfully print mine. I had increased Z-hop distance to 1.6 mm in Prusa Slicer (2.0.0-RC) and after first layer I reduced print speed on the printer to 60 %. No parts flying off the print plate any more. :-)

The main problem I had was with curling, sharp unsupported edges kept warping up like crazy. And nozzle knocked them off while moving. After upgrading my printer to MK3S, the curling was reduced but still enough to ruin the print. Speed reduction was probably the main factor in my successful print. No brim or anything, just smooth PEI build plate cleaned with IPA. Hope it helps.

Mmm... I'm not sure. What kind of bed do you have installed in your mk3? My printer is not that good, for sure, but I don't have bed adhesion issues. I have a glass bed, if it helps you. Maybe someone around with a prusa or other kind of beds can help you.

Would you like to share your fusion files? I'm interessed how you designed this.

I'm glad you liked the design. But I prefer not to share the full design, at least by now. I put a lot of effort into it, and I have some designs ongoing based on the same concept. I hope you understand it.

Comments deleted.

Omg u should make a quidbillies version from ‘CC adut swim’

Great design. Kids love it.

Printed 5 units on my Anycubic 4MAX. No problem at all.

Thanks for sharing.

Print it successfully with my ender3, looks very nice. My daughter love it.
Thanks for sharing.

I also have an ender3. I printed one yesterday with about 95% success. the only issue is with 2 of the tiniest segments on 2 legs.they did not print correctly and broke off (per partial prints?).
Could you share your settings?
Maybe mine was just an adhesion issue, I am not sure.

I'm using Cura 4.0Beta, and I simply follow "Print settings" on this page.
As I can't (or don't know how to) change infill for specific part, infill parameter was 20%.
I really take care when remove print from plate. Wait for complete temperature drop.
This design is amazing, nothing to cut or brake to release tentacles.
Also, be sure to use 0.2 "draft" printing precision. It's a very important for in-place printing.
Some pads from tentacle are very small, which may cause some initial adhesion. I slowdown first layer speed.

I printed one of these for my mom, and she loved it, so thank you OP! She took it to work, and it seems she's drummed up a bit of interest with it, and I've considered offering to print and sell these for a few bucks a pop, with your permission (I'll hand out an attribution card with every one!) to our coworkers. Does the CC license you selected permit commercial prints/use? I read it, but it doesn't say either way. Or would you otherwise permit me to pawn these off on my octopus-loving coworkers?

you're allowed to sell with a CC-attribution license.

I'm writing you a private message ;)

I am still very new to 3D print and am learning so much from others comments/projects. I have an Ender 3 and have been using Cura. Can someone please help me with the cura settings to help me get a successful print. Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful creations!

here I have an ender 3 and this person has helped me so much with retraction settings and such, I think with your problems with 3d printing he can help you https://www.youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics

Sorry, I have a different printer and I can't help you. But for sure someone around must have the settings for the Ender 3

Would it be possible to model the print like this? I would like to print it at 400% but with the legs straight it is not possible...

Did you ever print at 400% with new file? I want to do the same

I've just uploaded a new STL with the tentacles in spiral shape. That's the maximum angle that I guess will print correctly (a smaller one probably will fuse the pieces while printing, as they almost touch). I haven't tested it, so please share your experience if you do it.

I'll try, but that way the joints will have less clearance and I'm not sure if it will work. I'll let you know when the file is ready

Not to be annoying, but is it possible to also make one spiral with support pilar? ;-)

Done!! I hope people don't get confused with 4 different files...

Some of the tentacles are positioned right, but some are too close to the other body which causes the slicer to combine them to one...
And btw, the spiral with support has some blobs next to the other support on the printbed

Tentacles fixed right now. About the blobs, it doesn't appear to me. I don't know what they are

My kid loves it! Will try to scale it up and print a bigger one.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Just as a warning to others, do not use a brim on these. I just got mine functional after well over an hour of cleaning off the brim. Printing a second one as this is awesome.

Brim was the only way I could get mine to successfully print and it took me less than 10mins to trim it all off with a hobby knife

I had a razor and was doing everything to avoid slipping and cutting my hand. I guess a hobby knife makes sense. I have my bed perfectly leveled and first gap is great. Heat my bed to 70c and clean with alcohol and vigorous wipe every print. If I don't make sure that it is perfectly clean, it will not stick. I did a second print that came up awesome with no messing around.

If you are that quick with a hobby knife then it's all good though.

what's 200 |u m? i use cura, so i choose 0.06 -- 0.6.

It means that you slice on 0.2mm

I’m guessing this is a “print-in-place” design?

Yes, single print, no constructing afterwards, only play ;-)

Printing on my AdimLab at 94% with no supports. I was worried about the mouth but it’s printing fine. Very Nice build thanks much.

how do you print the tentacles a different infill than the head?

I printed with standard 15% infill and it works fine.

My wife is a teacher who works with special needs children. The kids love these and are requesting more of them in different colors. The file prints perfectly thank you for sharing, you have made many children happy. Printed on a MK3 .02 layer 15% infill

These can be a choking hazard as I can see it breaking.

These are much less prone to breaking than many of the other articulated designs eg Flexi Rex where the tail tends to break. I am happy give this one to toung kids to play with.

Printed succesfully on my XYZ Da vinci Mini, 15% infill, no support/rafts/brim. Layer 0.2mm
Using painting tape/hairspray, cold bed. I only had to move the legs a bit to get them really separated, none of them broke. But, I think this is about the maximum you can get from the da vinci mini.

Working just perfect on CR-10. Hatchbox PLA white .2mm, 203/60 20% infill, added support for the snout just in case. Cura 3.6

Big hit at our house! Printed this as a quick test print after installing a new fan and cooler. Printed beautifully using a Monoprice Maker Select Plus at .3mm and 10% infill. Used no brim or raft, and had no adhesion problems using a 50C heated bed and PLA. Looking forward to printing a couple higher res ones soon! My 8 year old was absolutely distraught that he couldn't find it at bedtime (the kids were fighting over it earlier), so I'll probably have to print a couple tomorrow!

made a big mess. New to this machine a Davinci Jr

went from a failed benchy, to a good benchy, to this. I guess this means I've got things dialled in right :)

My 5 year old son loves his new "occy" and is taking it to school today.

Had to print with a brim as a few of the "pads" refused to stay put, but otherwise it came out stunning. Printed the support model. 0.2mm, 15% infull, 80mm/sec. Anet a8 with e3d titan +v6 hotend.

Try printing it much slower for better results. No brim worked fine for me even with no heat on the bed. I used a glue stick for bed adhesion but printers tape also works fine.

Printed this at 100% and 60% on two different reprap deltas .2mm layers. Worked great (NO adhesion problems!) The universal consensus is that this is just plain cute.

This is awesone, works great on the ender 3.

How did you do it, it isn't working on mine

i love this octopus, i have do two figures, first 100% and later other one at 25% and it is very nice

Came out great! Printed on Monoprice Voxel 3D with default settings. Kids love it. Arms move freely. Thank you!

Comments deleted.

I am using ultimaker cura 4.0. how do i print head with 15% infill and legs with no infill


this video describes it (minute 3)



I love this design, 1 print and the moving legs. I would love to see this be developed further, could you make this into a spider or a scorpion

It would be great if a remix could be made with the steampunk and realistic head that can be found on other articulated octipodes.

I like the idea. I'll try my best. Thanks!!

Absolutely beautiful, I printed x2 smaller octopuses for my kids in white filament and one larger for myself in silk copper filament, print results are fantastic. thanks for sharing this beautiful creation.

For this kind of print I suggest Raft...

If you use a heatbed you definitely dont need a raft.

Has anyone come across the issue of their print being too brittle? I have completed two models so far and both broke when I tried to move the legs. I also noticed that some of the pictured results from others appear to be more “solid” than what I achieved. I am new to the hobby and am using a Prusa MK3S. Any recommendations are appreciated.

I ended up recalibrating my x, y, z axis. Also recalibrated my extruder’s z axis. I am now about 1/4 of the way through my print and I can already tell a drastic difference in print quality. No more stringy infill. Thanks, all!

Hi, I also printed this on a Prusa MK3S with a 10% infill (default grey PLA) and I got multiple good prints. Seems like you need to do some heat calibrations.

It's possible you're printing too cold. Print a Temp-Tower to determine your optimal printing temperature.

Made it, came out great. The finish isn't as good as I would like it. But this was my second print so far. Will work on my feeds and speeds. Thank you for your great work.

My son loves them exp during bath time they float quite well.

tride to print the file called Octopus_full_v5.5_noSupp.stl twice and ended up with crashes :(
Will try now the other file and see what happens.

printed with my Anet A8, works great! :)
Thank you very much

I am using Slic3rPE and It cannot be processed. Conversion never ends :-(

Then there is something wrong with your copy of Slic3r PE. I can process this without any issues in Slic3r PE (1.41.3)

I really like this. I've already printed a couple of them.
Would it be possible to make one with longer (more pieces) arms?

Of course. I can add it to my project to-do list, but probably it won't fit on many printers. I'm also thinking on a realistic version, but I'm still working on my sculpting skills ;)

Cool. I'm already printing it at 150% scale because I wanted it a bit bigger. I have a large print volume so I can fit more. Unfortunately I have no sculpting skills. Even just a version with, say, two more links would be nice.

In order for it to fit, you may want to consider turning the arms so that they print in a spiral pattern instead of straight out. That way it would take up less room on the build plate. That being said, I'm not sure how easy it would be to do in Fusion360, and it could affect how easily the arms move after printing. Just a thought!

Great design! It printed perfectly for me.

Can this be printed with TPU?

No idea. I've never used TPU

i posted a make with TPU

im sad cus i dont have pink filament ... it looks nice mixed with black... btw awesome octopus... im gona print a lot of them and than just trow them around my sisters room ;D

These little things are so cute and I love them! My mom now wants me to print her one. Amazing quality, great job!

same with mine, and it's already printing

I found that you got one with different face in the photo! XD

Yes, what an eagle eye!! That was a "beta" design, not so cute (I've also a pre-beta design with a really ugly face XD)

theyre adorable. great job man. has anyone tried making the smaller? if so how small can it go? im currently working on a 90% should work just fine. but if i got a 50 % to work.. man thatd be cute as balls

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I did a quick test print of one at 50% scaling on my Creality CR-20, with .2mm layer height, 200/60*C, 40mm/s print speed and 15% infill and only skirt, no brim. The smallest joints were fused, but the rest work fairly well after loosening them a bit. With slower print speed and .1mm layer height it's possible that the smallest joints might work too. It's definitely possible to print it at 50%. I used Prima Value black PLA.

It's tiny and black, so it was actually kinda difficult to take a photo of. It's a cool little bugger. :D

It appears there are some errors in the STL files. The 3D Builder.exe of Windows warns that and offers to fix. And more importantly, Cura keeps filling/enclosing the head when slicing (for all STLs including the fixed one by 3D Builder.exe), which is likely to be a sign of broken STLs. I also uploaded the "fixed" STL by 3D Builder.exe to Netfabb for error checking, but Netfabb just output "failed to load mesh (#103)", indicating that there are some errors the web service cannot handle.

Other slicers can handle the STL.

I wouldn't trust 3d builder, 1 because it's a Microsoft product, and 2 because it's not very reliable with shells

Comments deleted.

How exactly was this printed in dual colors, was wondering how because I was interested in making one dual color

Colorprint ( https://www.prusaprinters.org/color-print/ ) adds filament change at your chosen height to your slicer's gcode.

I'm going to guess here that he changed the filament at a certain layer. I've done this before when printing some cute slugs. :-) I use Cura to slice the print, and there's a plug-in you can use that will cause the printer to pause at whatever layer you want. When it pauses, you swap out the filament then resume the print. It can work out very nicely.

Yes, wombat991 is right.
As far as I know, you have two options:
1- Most slicers have a "pause at height" or similar function, so you can print the first layers with one color, and then pause the print and change the filament.
2- If you like the risk, as I do, you can start the print with one color and then cut the filament and introduce a different one in the extruder. If you do it properly, the color change will be quick and painless. I've been using this technique in a lot of prints.

Good luck!!

I just got my printer and it has a specific option to change colors partway through, also had to do some slight slicing and stuff so i could get the top part of head filled with a different percentage as flashprint doesn't let me make certain things have separate fills

This was fun to make with my 3 year old. He kept asking if it was done for the first hour

I made one in PETG - came out great! The joints were perfect and loose as soon as I removed the print from the bed! Thanks!

Hi Holmes, would you mind please sharing your PETG settings for this print? My PETG usually prints fantastic going hot and fast but so far the 4 times I attempted this it turned to dogshit within the first few layers.

I didn't do anything special, just used the Slic3rPE's generic PETG setting on a Prusa i3 MK3S. AmazonBasics Translucent Orange PETG.

I have had issues with PETG prints in the past on other printers, with the surface becoming very rough. Experiment with temperatures and cooling. Think I'll make some more of these.

did i need to put 0% infill but the wall like 3mm?

wall thickness* at 3mm?

No, I meant 3 walls or perimeters. My printer has a 0.4 mm nozzle, so that means a thickness of 1.2 mm.
Anyway, every printer is different, and nobody knows your printer better than you. So maybe different settings will work for you.

I printed with 2 walls/perimeters, with a 0.4mm nozzle. came out great too.

I am having issues with your pre-generated support. All 4 of my last prints the support has popped free.

Mmmm... that's weird, it works for me. Maybe it is related to the slicer settings. I'm using 0% infill, 3 walls perimeters and concentric top-bottom infill.
Is it happening to anybody else? I can modify the support if that's the case.

Anyway, you can try with the non-support stl and add your own. Thanks for your feedback.

Good luck!!

I printed this last weekend and had trouble with the inner support (underneath the head) . My issue was that it didn't adhere to the bed properly. As it was printing, I took out the support that didn't stick. It started leaving traces (it would still extrude) of the support to the inner sides and eventually corrected itself. It wasn't a failed print, but could have gone better.

I used and Ender 3 with glass bed and Cura slicer defaults.

Thanks for your feedback. As you are the second one to report this, I'm going to add a warning on the description.

Comments deleted.

Just printed, works like a charm (100 microns), GREAAAAaaaaaaaat i LOVE it !!!! Thank you :-)

I'm glad you liked it. Thanks!!