My impression of the iconic energy weapon from the Liberator spaceship in the classic British Sci-Fi series Blake's 7. This hasn't been created by meticulous measurements from snowy VHS on freeze-frame, or anything like that, it's just sort of eyeballed and roughed out.
Designed at about 1/5 scale - scale to 0.83x to get 1/6 scale suitable for Barbie dolls etc. Might be a bit fragile or hard to print at that scale.
The barrel has been print-prototyped with a threaded end for my interchangeable barrel transformers gun. The handle seems to print OK - if you find the Tinkercad model, the assembled gun on there has a different handle which doesn't print properly, and a different handle connector which will only print properly scaled up or at higher than typical resolution. Print the handle in black and the "energy rod" part in clear, and clear-laquer the rod section to make it more transparent looking. I experimented with different styles of 100% infill including all-perimeter for the barrel - it didn't make it much more see-thru, and seemed to make it a bit weaker. I include a 2mm diameter hole into the back of the barrel, which will accept a length of 1.75mm filament as a reinforcement. Can also be equipped with a tiny LED - supply from external battery box per original, add SFX if feeling really adventurous, and perhaps knock up a holster and, say, a Cally outfit for Barbie... :-)
3D Warhorse PLA
The handle should be printed vertically, handle-up, with supports to base on - the support probably not strictly needed at this kind of size, but the centre of the inside of the dome/cup shape is technically an overhang requiring support (though most of it is removed by the centre hole). When I printed it, the support stayed put, intact on the base, when I lifted the handle off, implying that it wasn't doing a great deal.
The "peg" on the "cap" part - meant to represent the body of the jack plug used on the original to supply power - is dimensioned to fit the counterbore in the back of the handle, but my printer prints small pegs oversized and small holes undersized, so I had to trim it. Fiddle with the model or scaling to get something that fits without hassle. The larger interface, between the barrel and the cup of the handle, fitted fine for me.
Because bed adhesion is not a problem on the Anycubic "ultrabase" I print the first layer at the same as the selected layer height for 0.12mm and above, but for very small parts like these I tend to keep it at 0.12mm if I move to 0.08mm resolution. For a 0.83x scaled print of this (1:6 scale) I would move to 0.08mm resolution, particularly for the handle and cap, though in fact it works OK at 0.12.
At 0.12mm, the handle takes a bit over 20min, the cap a couple of mins, and the barrel about 30min. I print them all separately to avoid stringing between parts etc. as I find it hard to get a good anti-stringing combination of retract speed/length, traverse speed, etc. Currently using 60mm/s retracts of 6.2mm, 35mm/s print speed and 100mm/s traverses, which produces minimal strings inside the collar of the barrel but leads to some slight filament starvation of the central barrel section inside the collar, i.e. it's over-retracting a bit.
Clear "barrel" smoothness, transparency, strength
The barrel has a 2mm hole inside, into which you could glue a length of 1.75mm clear PLA filament as a reinforcement, especially if printing with maxed-out wall thickness so that every layer consists only of walls - I found that approach made a barrel that was clean looking but prone to snapping at the base. Assuming the head temperature, feed and fan settings allow good layer adhesion, the homogeneity of the printed clear PLA isn't too bad, but the surface ridging in the Z axis makes for a milky look. The zero-effort way to improve this is a thick layer of clear model varnish having roughly the same refractive index as the PLA - I used some Humbrol clear gloss enamel - this fills the ridges a bit and instantly makes the barrel look a bit clearer.
For a more convincing look, you could replace the barrel with an actual acrylic rod, or print slightly oversized and sand and polish back to a smooth surface using ultra-fine wet-and-dry used wet followed by something like toothpaste on a soft cloth. It might be worth trying to print the barrel sideways, too, though it'd probably have to be in two halves, separated from the collar section.
With a smidgen of ingenuity, one could readily incorporate a small LED (3mm or less radial lead package, or an SMD device) into the base of the barrel - the handle is substantially hollow and has a hole along its length to allow for the wiring for this. It'll need a battery box resembling the original and some kind of tiny, preferably curly, cable. Fiddly but worth it, IMO.