Ender 5 Upper Leadscrew Bracket

by mikallus Apr 2, 2019
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Used some m4 bolts and these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2544883 to install it and - no more bed drop! Had it fall all the way down after every print and couldn't even think about pausing a print in fright of the bed dropping. Plus: I don't have to wait for autohome to push the table aaaall the way up from rock bottom.
To get the right position I just used autohome, trusting that the bed would push it to the right position.
Anyway, thank you for this simple but awesome thing!

m3 m4 m5 drop in t-nuts for 2020 2040 2080 extrusion
by chipg07

Can you please Explain to me how do you install this? do i need to put a hole in my ender 5's rails? i dont understand please help my bed keeps falling with a glass bed recently installed. Also added the Z tensioner aswell.

You'll need two M4 v-slot nuts with M4x8 screws to fasten the bracket to the V-rail.

Use a level/t-square to ensure the leadscrew is square to the frame, and use a deburring tool to adjust the fit between the bracket and leadscrew.

The idea is to have a small amount of friction fit which will hold the leadscrew in place and prevent the bed from dropping when the stepper is de-energized.

one more question would i need to tke off one of the rods for me to fit the v slot nuts into the vrail? or should they just pop in?

No, disassembling the printer is not required. The v-slot nuts simply slide in sideways, then when tightened they will rotate into position so they can lock into the rail.

One tip to help you install is to connect the screw and v-slot nut to the bracket just enough to connect them, then insert the nuts into the rail with the bracket.

Do you find that adding friction to the leadscrew will affect the z-axis's ability to move freely? I'm wondering things like z-hop might be negatively affected. I do agree that the bed falls way too easily making pauses basically impossible. Also wouldn't the lead-screw eventually bore out the PLA enough that it doesn't help anymore? I've printed one to try soon, but I'm just curious about these points.

I haven't experienced any negative impact on the Z-axis's ability to move freely. I intentionally undersized the leadscrew hole so that you can make the final adjustments to the fit. I used a 5/16" (8mm) drill bit then a deburring tool to make the leadscrew fit snug enough to keep it from dropping the bed under weight or when the stepper is de-energized, but not too tight as to hamper rotation of the leadscrew.

So far I have over 80 hours on the printer with this mod and haven't had the bed drop, but if you experience this please let me know.

You were right so far. I printed this a few days ago, followed your instructions for boring it out, and threw it on my Ender 5 along with several other modifications. I started having major issues with adhesion so I began taking off the mods one by one, thinking this was the cause. Turns out it wasn't adhesion, it was an extrusion issue unrelated to the bracket so I've added it back on.

I'm thoroughly impressed by how well it prevents bed drop, even though it barely touches the lead screw. Going to test it with the added weight of my new glass bed today.

There is not only no need for this bracket but also it will increase inaccuracies if your screw has even slightest bend on it more so as your print gets higher. Had that problem on i3 prusa and when I saw screw end doing circles I thought it's good idea to 'stabilize' it. Effect was that the my whole x axis assebly started to wobble back to front (left -right limited by Z rod rails). Now I have Ender-5 I will not make the same mistake again!

If your screw has a bend in it you should probably replace or fix the screw before adding this bracket. Also the leadscrew coupling can be loosened during installation of the bracket to easily allow for correct alignment.

Like with many elements of a printer, it requires precise alignment which is easily achievable with basic tools that should have already been used to calibrate/adjust the printer.

I also don't see how your screw could become bent in normal operation of the printer, or due to the use of this bracket, but please elaborate if you can.

I don't know nor care how my screw got bend in it, it's beside the point and irrelevant. I know now that not very significant bend in the lead screw is not changing the thread geometry to the point it would matter to the printer and its Z move precision. If you do however fix the free end of such screw to the frame you are introducing lateral forces which are likely to move the table attached to the nut to the point it will affect layers overlap. There is a real reason why it wasn't fixed in the first place.
I am simply agreeing with other comments here that this bracket is unnecessary and as an example I gave my experience with my former i3 Prusa printer. I learn from my mistakes and I share to help others to avoid them. Take it or leave it.
Peace with you.

Thanks for the comments and insights. I'm going to leave mine in place because without it the bed tends to drop, especially with heavier prints. Also I used a runout gauge to measure the wobble and with the bracket it's pretty much nonexistent. I haven't experienced the symptoms you describe with regard to lateral forces and consequent print flaws.

There are several people here who have installed it and experienced an improvement in printer performance. Sorry to hear that this doesn't improve things for you.

There is NO NEED for this bracket!
Since the spindle is not horizontal, there is no weight on the spindle nut relative to the distanze from the stepper.

On the contrary, if you posititon this bracket not exactly, you load the spindle nut with transverse forces!!!!

It greatly helps with the bed falling after the steppers are turned off. With the addition of my spring tensioner, the bed will not drop unless you have a very large heavy print on the bed. In that case the bed is very close to the bottom anyway.

Comments deleted.

How about adding a ballbearing to the leadscrew?

What issue would that solve?

Minimize friction between the rod and the mount. I just mentioned it, cause I saw one with a bearing for the Ender 3 and it seemed legit.

The Ender 5 has a different bed design than the 3 in that the leadscrew needs to keep the bed elevated, but on the stock 5 there is little friction between the leadscrew nut and the leadscrew (especially when greased - recommended however), allowing the bed to drop when the stepper is not energized.

Adding a radial bearing will allow the leadscrew to rotate freely within the leadscrew bracket, thereby allowing the bed to drop.

So in this case friction between the bracket and the leadscrew is desirable since that friction is enough to prevent the leadscrew from turning and thus dropping the bed.

Why not load up a version to print that fits without drilling? I surely do not have an 8.5mm drill.

I intentionally undersized the hole so that the end user could adjust the fit as desired.

Start with an 8mm or 5/16" and then make fine adjustments as needed with a deburring tool.

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the reply.

Most welcome, happy to help:)

What's the best way to drill the hole bigger?

The best way to drill the hole bigger is with a drill.

Use an 8mm drill bit (or 5/16") for the initial cut then use a deburring or similar tool as necessary to achieve the desired fit.

Easy print and fixes two issues I had with the printer. The wobbly unsupported lead screw just bugged me, but more importantly the bracket solved my problem of the bed falling about 2" when powering off. I drilled mine out to 8.5mm for clearance. Great job!

Thank you for the feedback and kind words!