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Maleh3Dprntx

Anycubic i3 Mega X-Carriage [MK2] V5 & V6 Hotend

by Maleh3Dprntx Apr 5, 2019
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Das Design ist echt Klasse.
Bin gerade dabei alles auszudrucken.
Ich drucke in PLA und den Fanduct in PETG.
Die Exel Tabelle sagt mir Front- und Baseplate jeweils "ohne MK2", also die normale Version (in der Igus Variante).
Ist das beabsichtigt oder ein Fehler?

Hallo, nein das ist kein Fehler solange die Files im Ordner auch so heißen alles gut. Das gesamte Carriage ist MK2 da ich vorher MK1 als anderes thing veröffentlicht hatte. Die regulären Teileordner tragen das halt irgendwie im Namen, manchmal wenn der Dateiname für mein CAD Programm zu lang war hab ich es dann rausgelassen wenn zB stattdessen noch igus reinmusste oder so.

Grüße

Alles klar.
Danke für die Antwort.
Bin echt gespannt!

Was ist bei mir der Fehler ?? Siehe Bild

Kannst Du das Hotend nicht um 90 Grad drehen?

Ich denke du wirst den Heatblock um 45 Grad drehen müssen, damit er seitlich nicht mehr anstößt...
Edit: meine natürlich 90 Grad :)

Exakt - die Nozzle sitzt bei dem Carriage nun mittig und die Kabel gehen seitlich weg.

Hier noch ein Design mit e3d V6 Hotend
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3055789

Precision Piezo and E3D V6, holder for E3D V6 and one touch connector
by YMita

Hallo,
Finde dein Design echt mega. Ich habe vor meinen Anycubic I3 auch so umzubauen. Wäre es dir möglich in dein Design noch eine Halterung für ein Piezo Element einzubauen. So sieht das ganze aus https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2319993. Würde mich sehr freuen.
Den Anycubic i3 so zu Leven finde ich die genaueste Lösung.

Precision Piezo - Piezo20 Hotend Z Probe

Hallo, du bist nun der zweite der sich das ganze wünscht, prinzipiell in der Lage bin ich sicherlich aber kurzfristig wird es eher schwierig. Das größte Problem was ich hierbei sehe ist, dass ich selbst den PP Orion nicht habe es müsste sich also jemand aus der Community für die Feldversuche bereitstellen der einen hat und mit mir dann kommunizieren was wie angepasst werden muss damit es gut läuft ;)

Grüße

Einen Orion habe ich auch nicht. War vielleicht ein blödes Beispiel. Ich möchte ein e3D V6 Hotend mit einem 20mm oder 27mm Piezo Element und mittiger Bohrung, oberhalb vom Hotend verbauen. Ich würde mich für die Fehlersuche bereitstellen. Kann aber nicht sagen wann ich alles zusammen habe und starten kann. Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Eine Andere Möglichkeit wäre mir die Zeichnungen zur Verfügung zu stellen das ich selbst Änderungen vornehmen kann. Ich Zeichne mit Autodesk Inventor.

Du kannst dich ja melden wenn die Sachen da sind, dann überlegen wir ob es ne gute Lösung für die Montag gibt mit dem Carriage - meine CAD files gebe ich leider nicht raus dafür war das Projekt zu Aufwändig und ich Stelle ja alle STLs für zig Varianten schon gratis zur Verfügung. Wenn Änderungen anstehen/notwendig sind werde ich diese durchführen.

Grüßen

Hello Dear
It's amazing
but i want to use it on my Prusa i3
the size of the carrier is different,
can you modify it please to be compatible with Prusa i3?

Hello,
to do that modification you have to tell me the measures/distances of your printer, that means distances of the smooth rods etc. I don't know if it's possible to get this 1:1 on prusa i3, because if the x Endstop sits at different position/height it will be a problem too.

Regards

Thank you sooooo much for your replay
I have a Sintron prusa i3
Here are the models for it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1104119

[Sintron] Prusa i3 Mod kit
by luchane

and this is the original kit too.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1658774

Sintron prusa i3 3d printer acrylic + plastic parts
by sintron

Thanks I will have a look at the files an see where we got differences in measures etc. I'll give you report about it.

Danke für Deine schnelle Antwort. Kannst Du mir noch einmal den Amazonlink zukommen lassen?
Gruß
Ronald

Hast du die Nachricht hier auf thingiverse nicht erhalten? Da sind die Links drin, wenn ich Versuche das hier zu Posten in der Kommentarfunktion wird mein Kommentar direkt gesperrt.
Edit: lag wohl am AliExpress Link, Amazon geht s.o.
Gruß

Welche Schleppkette benutzt Du denn? Ist das die Kette?
1M R28 NYLON Energiekette Schleppkette Kabelführung 10x20 mm für CNC 3D Drucker - EUR 5,49.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-R28-Nylon-Energiekette-Schleppkette-Kabelfuhrung-10x20-mm-fur-CNC-3D-Drucker/253930355316?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095858%26meid%3D046dfe0366544da7abbb3bad8b6253aa%26pid%3D100904%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D253930355316%26itm%3D253930355316&_trksid=p2509164.c100904.m5276

Ich habe noch 2 Fragen, wie stellst Du die Verbindung Extruder zu Kabelkette her und warum hast Du auf der Backplatte die Verbindung zur Kabelkette mittig gesetzt? Das sind dann 2 Knicks am Kabel, nicht so gut oder?
Gruß
Ronald
P.S. Trotzdem danke und weiter so.

Hallo @ronaldi40, ich hatte dir bereits heute Mittag eine Nachricht gesendet mit zwei Links, einer von Amazon einer von AliExpress - leider konnte ich es hier nicht Posten es wurde immer gesperrt (siehe die Kommentare mit "flagged for moderation")
Deine von eBay geht aber auch aufjedenfall ;)

Die Kabelkette wird mit einem extra Mount am extruder motor befestigt (liegt im Ordner "Various parts"), an der Backplate wird die Kabelkette eingeclipst. Der Verlauf der Kette ist wie auf dem Foto im Anhang.

Comments deleted.

Hallo, ich bin total begeistert von dem was du da machst,kannst du schon ungefähr einen Termin nennen bis die Kabelkette rauskommt ?
Mach weiter so !!
Gruß
Stefan

Hallo, in der nächsten Stunde/ 30 Minuten werde ich die Sachen wieder veröffentlichen ;)

Grüße
Martin

Hello Martin,
I have run into some difficulties with regards to the hex nut holes on the faceplate. I have printed the piece but the holes bore seems to be too small to fit the m3 hex nut down into the shaft. This is also true for the recessed areas to fit the hex nut on the backplate as well. It seems to be smaller by ~.02mm. Any help would be great.

Printing with ABS

Hi, do you only mean the hex nut recesses or also so bore hole itself? There are two options for you now:
1) regular holes can be drilled with a 3mm drill, hex nuts can be pushed in with a soldering iron
2) (reprinting) for this option I would give you stl files with even more cleareance than in current files.

So choose the option you want and tell me what you about to do.

Regards

I can give you exact measurements so you can determine how much more clearance to adjust?

Both the recesses and the bore holes are smaller. So where the nut goes down the holes in the frontplate and the recesses on the back plate where the axial fan duct attaches on the bottom. I tried the soldering iron method and this kind of worked except a build up happens behind the nut not allowing the screw to go through and if it does there’s enough space between the walls and the nut that when torque is applied it rips the walls and the nut is free to turn. I would greatly appreciate the .stl of the frontplate file with slightly larger holes and recesses. If that fails maybe I will just print in PLA to avoid shrinkage. I’m not confident in printing in PETG.

Ok thanks for info, if you want to you can tell me how much more clearance you need, but the more essential to know for me is: Which version files you used? v5/v6/bltouch.... ?

Oh good point. I’m am using the v5 no bltouch. Let’s go with .4mm more

I'll post files for you tomorrow (Thursday) if that's ok - are you sure about 0.4? That is pretty much I mean the holes currently are 3.3 that would be a 3.7 hole then almost 4 - maybe it would be better do to a short tolerance print in first step and measure with a caliper? Just a block with holes from 3.0, 3.1 ... to 4.0 - I can create one for you tomorrow which has hexaedric holes in different sizes and regular holes - fast print test with important output information. So did you try to put the bearings in their slots with these tolerance problem this might be an issue too.

Regards

Yes there was a tolerance issue on the bearings. I had printed the ingus version and it was just too small for the ingus bearings but the linear bearings fit fine so I decided to switch back. I can give you the output measurements for those if you could modify this as well. As for the holes tolerance let me Reprint the plate tonight to measure the output dimensions. Since I melted the bolts into the last one the measurements wouldn’t be accurate.

Cheers

Ok so strangely it’s printing the holes and recesses at ~4.2mm but the m3 hexnuts I have measure at ~5.4mm

4.2? There are no 4mm holes - this is pretty strange never heard something like that - I will send you a testprint and you tell me what you measure in holes, outer measures etc ok?

Sounds good thanks

@Lordbaca I attached the tolerance test STL to this message including a pdf with the real measures pls print it with your settings. This will give us important information with fast printing time <30min.

Hallo Maleh3Dprntx,
ich poste Dir mal mein Kabelkettenmix aus Ender 3 Kabelkette (In meinen Augen die beste Kabelkette zur Zeit.) + Michelix und ich.
Vielleicht hilft Dir das bei Deiner Kettenkonstruktion.
Gruß
Ronald

Hello Maleh3Dprntx,
I'll post you my cable chain mix from Ender 3 cable chain (in my view, the best cable chain currently.) + Michelix and me.
Maybe that will help you with your chain construction.
greeting
Ronald

Hallo, danke Dir für die Anregungen habe mal reingeschaut, habe aber meine Sachen für die Kabelkette soweit erstmal fertig (anderes Konzept) kann nur aktuell nicht großartig testdrucken da meine y achse Probleme macht.
Habe aber nicht auf eine druckbare Kabelkette ausgelegt, sondern ne Standard-China 10x20 die ich hier habe zum testen.

Hello, thank you for the suggestions I have had a look at it, but I have finished my stuff for the cable chain so far (other concept) just can't currently test print great because my y axis is causing problems. I didn't design a printable cable chain but a standard China 10x20 one which I have here to test.

Regards
Martin

Hi Marin,

Some starting point for drag chain mounting to bridge could be designs of:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2983999
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2803544
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948997

I'm sure you'll make something consistent with rest of project!

Anycubic I3 Mega Cable Chain
by RTamer
Anycubic i3 mega printed X axis cable chain (stock mega)
Anycubic i3 Mega holder drag chain for cable

It is really nice! I'm looking forward to you sharing improved version of backplate. Yesterday I faced my first nozzle jams ever. The reason I printed your x-carriage was change to clone of E3D v6 hotend with all metal heat break. I printed few parts out of grey ABS+ without issues, but after changing filament to PETG i got two consecutive clogs. I hope it does not become standard, as I do not have heat break with PTFE liner at the moment.
My extruder is cooled passively, so I'd rather stick to my modification of meireles's holder of drag chain, as framing in plastic of extruder motor is not a good idea in my case. I have a picture of badly printed in PETG holder I was able to print as last part. Feel free to adopt it further, if you like it.

Ok yeah I understand your issues about extruder warming because I had same struggle since first days with my any i3 m since then I'm using active cooling + big radiator. The reason I designed the holder as a Clamp version is because I don't like the idea of having the mount and the extruder on the same single bolt - by means if one has to be adjusted both need to be removed. But if you want to go with that no problems. I could also share the clamp mount with a holder for a 40mm axialfan cooling the extruder if you want to go to active cooling.

To the clogging topic: Are you using high retract length at PETG like over 6-7mm? And secondly what fan are you using? Noctua? The reason I'm asking is, because all metal heatbreak is more designed to be used for high temperature without having the advantages of the PTFE going through to the Nozzle - it's a known problem at all metal. For that reason it is essential to use a strong axialfan at heartbreak cooling, because if upper zones in heatbreak do not get cooled enough you get these clogging stuff. So if you got a regular noctua with low flowrates I would recommend to switch to a more strong fan.

I do not think there is any adjustment necessary or possible to either chain mount or extruder with bolt they are supported on. Pre-test version was so nice, I decided to adjust it's dimensions to match cable chain in height, I also put some bores for zip ties to hold the cable set. I'm printing it now - hopefully with more luck than yesterday.
As to active cooling of extruder stepper - I do not see the need to do so. It is barely warm to touch at 33 C after 20 minutes of print going on, I get 34C at X axis motor. I love idea of things beeing quiet and use passive cooling as much as possible. TMC2208 on all axis was like day to night on my printer. I set all voltages low, if I remember correctly 1.0V, so there is less heat generated.

And clogging topic: I did my homework yesterday and read about all metal heat breaks exactly what you wrote, stronger cooling necessary, less retract, faster print speed. I will change fan to more powerful in days to come. At this moment I use Silentium - Polish brand, quiet but not so efficient. Another yes - retract was large, 10 mm, changed to 4 mm, perhaps will even reduce more, as I do not see much stringing anyway.

I'm printing in a housing so Temp is pretty much higher, for that reason I'm using active cooling, but it's only 5V so extreme silent. And yes tmc2208 makes hard differences only radialfan is noisy :D
Let me know if you need anything for you work with the different braket.

So as you said 10mm retract, then we got your problem, if you measure your nozzle length you will see that it definitely pulls melted filament into the colder heatbreak zones. Regarding this fact you don't need a new fan, just adjust you settings for PETG I recommend the following: increase of travel speed >110 (not printing speed), retract lengthy ~4-5mm but high retract speed like 70mm/s because PETG can better deal with these high speeds due to its flexibility in comparison to PLA/ABS.

Hi again, thanks for the suggestions I'll take these in mind for mine and yeah I'll definitely develop/ find something it's just a matter of my time buckets ;)
I already uploaded the high resolution pic of the exploded view as you suggested;)

Hello Martin,

First of all, thank you for this amazing design and it's development you've shared.
Honestly, I've printed some things already, but this is best engineering work I've seen so far. Every aspect of this project is superb, starting from design itself, dimensioning, clearances up to thorough description of print and assembly. It is a full product of very high quality, and besides good words I've sent you few $ to appreciate your work. Keep it up!
I would suggest to make available for download higher resolution images of exploded carriage drawing - this could be of use to those who are not so keen on reading.
At the moment I'm printing drag chain version of base plate you've published lately. And here comes a question - what part do you suggest to mount the end of drag chain close to extruder motor? Anything available fits?

Regards,
Jacek

Hi Jacek,
thank you very much for your appreciation and big commendation!
And yeah to be honest the things you describe are the result of very large amount of development work so far.
I really appreciate your words & support by the tip because I was struggling before release with the descision of sharing this project (for free) or not because I had a lot of work with this and many people will/are just hitting the download button and thats it for them. Im glad you and some others support this by giving feedback, ideas and so on. For me its not about selling this thing, because I also enjoy open source projects, but i guess supporting developers by feedback/contact/community/tips is an important fact.
I will think about your idea with the high res image of the explode with with call outs, maybe I will proide a vector graphic in a pdf or so.

Referring your question, I haven't made a mount for the other side yet, in first place I wanted to go the step by providing the direct interface for direct mounting of a cable chain to the Backplate. If you got a good solution idea feel free to share your thoughts, but I will publish a mount if I find another time bucket in near future.
And before I forget about: Thanks for sharing your make!

Regards,
Martin

Comments deleted.

hi I wanted to ask this bolt m30x20 what was the use thanks

Hi, this bolt can prevent your hotend from rotation, depending on differing print results the hotend radiator might sit very tight in it's guide slots or it might have some clearance so if you feel you need to fix the hotend because it can easily rotate (after you screwed together front and coverplate) you can use this bolt. It's not a must have when your hotend ist well tightend between front and coverplate you can leave it out.

Hi Martin, i'm trying to print the regular duct without succes with the hole on upper part
I'm printing in ABS 240/110 40mm/Sec and 30mm/Sec

Hi Yvan,
OK yeah I can see it on the pic, that doesn't look satisfying. I guess it's a problem of retract and flow. But, have you had tried to print the 3D fanduct? The orientation of the fan holder there allows to have this hole flat on the Hotbed, maybe this works better for you.
Regards.

Maybe my question will be stupid... Why does it have to be printed in PETG? In PLA is not good?

No your question is not stupid.
Its a matter of what you want to do with you printer, if you print parts out of PLA you are limited to its glass temperature ~50-60°C so you can only print PLA with the Carriage because materials with higher Bed and Hotend temperature like PETG or ABS with 80°C+ at the Bed and 220+ at Nozzle the PLA will get smooth and deforms easily especially the Fanduct because it's under the load of the fan. And once parts deformed you have to disassmble the carriage and rebuild the original one to print new parts (and no one wants to do that for sure :D). That is why it's recommended to use PETG which got a higher glass temp from around 80°C. BUT I also got a dude that knows he will only print PLA on his printer so he's fine with PLA, but even then I won't use it because if you want to go higher temp to print other Material you will get problems for sure.

The reason I chosed PETG is because I dont like to use ABS because of its toxic degassings and it's tendency of warping and making problems during printing.

Hi, can you also make a version to fit the E3D V6 3.00mm with vulcano heatblock? the J-Head is a bit bigger... thanks

Hello, sorry to say so but it's not planned for this project and currently I see no reason and time in putting much more effort in this to redesign another additional Hotend series. Beside this I don't have a volcano so I can't test the design and I won't publish something that is not tested.

Regards.

Hallo, also wenn ich alle Fehler ausschließe, lag die Schuld wohl bei mir. Wahrscheinlich habe ich Reste vom Druck beim saubermachen übersehen, sorry.
Gruß
Ronald

Hello, so if I exclude all errors, the blame was probably mine. I've probably overlooked remnants of the clean-up pressure, sorry.
greeting
Ronald

Hallo, kein Problem, gerne bitte immer sofort melden wenn es Probleme/Unklarheiten gibt!

Hello, no problem please always gladly announce if there are problems/unclarities!

Martin

Reprinted in PETG. Tolerances all work well. Only issue was supports not wanting to release. The PETG adheres to itself much more than the PLA.

Ok thanks for feedback, but that is obviously a fact of print/silcer settings (Temp, Retract, flow) the clearance is now at 0.25mm in Z height for every support, normally you can easily go with layheight +-0.02 (for me it's 0.18-0.2 in Z), but whatever. So where you had biggest trouble?
I might publish parts without any custom support so people can work with their own support structures.

I hope you still happy with the parts.

Yeah, probably settings for sure. I've struggled a lot with PETG... that's why I did this in PLA first. Biggest areas were the BLTouch mounting nut (it was fused almost solid) and the tensioner holes in the back plate. Those actually cracked the back plate when I took them out, but it was still functional. Still quite happy with it. However, I am probably going to try to work up something with a direct extruder next. :-)

Thanks for posting you make again and staying in contact about possible problems i appreciate that. So if you enjoy this remember to hit the Like and Collect buttons as well as considering about a little Tip.
Best regards.

Will mit jetzt das Drucken v5 ohne bltouch version
Frage:
1 Wofür ist diese Lasche an der coverplatte?
2 Wie ist es mit der Verkabelung aus? Reichen die original Kabellängen des hotends und des t-Sensors?
Nebenbei, geiles Design..bin mal gespannt wenn ich es montiert habe:)

Die "Lasche" an der Coverplate löst den X-Endschalter aus.
Die Kabelführung bei V5 geht rechts vorbei, es ist alles so ausgelegt, dass es mit den Originalen Kabeln passt (siehe Bild).

Viel spaß damit;)

Hauptsächlich die 6 Bohrungen mit den Distanzhülsen, die unteren 4 musste ich kürzen, nur die beiden oberen kurzen haben einigermaßen gepasst, die Schrauben müssen alle 5 mm länger sein, also 3x45, ansonsten alles gut. Habe die Teile am 14.4. runter geladen.
Auch Dir frohe Ostern.
Gruß
Ronald

Mainly the 6 holes with the spacers, the lower 4 I had to cut, only the two upper short have reasonably fit, the screws must be 5 mm longer, ie 3x45, otherwise everything is fine.
Have the parts on 14.4. downloaded. Also happy Easter.
greeting
Ronald

Ok, das ist sehr seltsam, welches versions-Set hast du denn genau genutzt also V5/V6, Igus/Normal? Ich hab die Sachen ja alle gedruckt und getestet, also könnte dann gegebenenfalls ein falsches Maß in einem aktualsierten CAD file zu finden sein. Habe einen Ausschnitt aus der Baugruppe angehängt, M3x40 reicht eigentlich ohne Probleme aus und auch die Distanzhülsen sind eigentlich eher etwas zu kurz. Wäre also interessant bei welchem File das genau aufgetreten ist ggf. hat sich da der Fehlerteufel eingeschlichen über die Updates.

Grüße Martin.

Okay, that's very strange, what version set did you use exactly? I printed and tested all the things, so there might be a wrong measurement in one of the updated CAD files. I have attached a cutout from the assembly, M3x40 is actually sufficient without problems and also the distance sleeves are actually a bit too short. Would be interesting therefore with which file exactly this occurred if necessary the error devil has crept in over the updates.

Hallo, noch einmal vielen Dank für diesen Umbau. Ein paar Änderungen habe ich noch vorgenommen und ein paar Toleranzen waren zu knapp. Trotzdem großes Lob. Hier ein paar Bilder von meinem Umbau. Vorne dran habe ich noch einen Halter für meine Messuhr montiert. Hier ist ein Link zu meinem Messuhrhalter.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3503108
Gruß
Ronald

Hello, thanks again for this conversion. I have made a few changes and a few tolerances were too tight. Nevertheless, great praise. Here are a few pictures of my remodeling. In front of it, I have mounted a holder for my dial gauge. Here is a link to my meter holder.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3503108
Greeting
Ronald

Anycubic i3 Mega - Indicator Holder, Meßuhrhalter, Messuhr, Halter

Hi again, OK yeah I see some of you changes, so mod them how you like to mod to ;)
But maybe you could tell and describe me where you had the tolerance issues (Version & Place/Part) and when you downloaded the files so I know if I tackled them or not and if it's a printer dependent problem or one that will occur for everyone, so I can maybe include the information for next release.
Best regards and happy Easter.

Hello!
Thank you so much for the work done!
Can you please tell me, under such a radiator in the MK2, do you need to make the edges lower?

Hello, what type of coldend you got there from trianglelab? And what edges do you mean? If you have the technical data/measurings of this hotend I can check if it fits, if that's what you mean with your question.

In copies of E3DV6, a PC4-M10 fitting is screwed in from above, in the originals of E3DV6 a fitting like that of Trianglabs is used. Accordingly, the copy will be longer, and the tube will be above the printed case. And in the version of Trianglabs get shorter, and the tube will be below the body.

Yea I'm clear about the push fitting thing, but the only problem I see would be the clip of the fitting included in the trianglelab fitting, so a bigger diameter would be needed. Or do you mean the problem of having the tube that deep inbetween cover and Frontplate?

Yes, it will take a larger diameter to have easy access to the fitting.

Ok, I will post coverplate and Frontplate for you. What version you planning do built? BLTouch version or regular? Happy Easter.

Thank you!) Happy Easter.
I was going to print the regular version. But suddenly someone will face the same problem, but he will need a version with BLTouch. Therefore, I will 'choose' with BLTouch as more universal.

Hi again, i attached two stl one for Frontplate and one for Coverplate. You can give this a test print if you want to (I recommend to test print coverplate bc obviously its way faster ;) ), if it fits better good, if not please tell me what adjustments will be needed, so we can improve the solution together to make it suitable for you. In the new files i raised the Diameter of the Hole slightly and made the Chamfer bigger.

So far, there is no way to try it out, because the package is on the way, and I hope to get it soon.
When the package is delivered, I will try ...
Thanks for the help.

Hi, let me know how it went because i just ordered a Trianglelab V6 all metal
Thanx

Hey guys, check this out: I made a shorter Version of cover and frontplate which will work fine its attached to this message - if you need versions without support, for BlTouch or for Igus bearings let me know. @4141003 @YvanAnycubicI3Mega

Thank you very much for your care!)
Package is already in the city, I will get it soon.
Today I printed "01_baseplate_mk2_e3dv6_igus_vers"
Now, if possible, I need "frontplate_mk2_e3dv6_short" under Igus
The version with your support quite suits me)
I will definitely print all the models and first lay out on Thingiverse in the Makes category)

p.s. I'll print now "coverplate_mk2_e3dv6_short"

@4141003 @YvanAnycubicI3Mega - I made the shorter Frontplate for igus bearings for you both, as you'll might already seen the shorter frontplates only use 4 Long m3x40 bolts but no worries about that. Baseplate for igus stays same and coverplate is the short version I posted in the comments here. Have fun with it.

Lol, i just printed the Larger diameter yesterday even if i've not receive my Trianglelab V6...should be in 2 weeks

But if you have the short version for IGUS i will take it

I'm not sure about the BLtouch version...i don't know which one to use...Manual leveling, Mesh leveling or BLtouch

BTW, i made this but did not test it yet (only the airflow):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3601627

Duct for V5 AI3M

Ok yeah no hurry with that, if your stuff arrives you can Report back to me how it's going if you want to.

Hi!

Really nice work. I really want to change my carriage to yours but I still have only my stock fans. Can you add or modify the V5 BLTouch version's fanduct to handle the stock blower? I think a lot of us would really appreciate this (if this is a good carriage and works fine after printing I will change the stock fans but until that I don't wanna waste), coz everyone could try/use this with stock parts too.
I'm looking forward to your answer.

Best regards,
Gyula :)

Hi, thanks and yes your idea is good thanks for the feedback, I'm using 5015 since over a year now so I forgot about the old one. I won't make a complete new fanduct version for that, but it's an important factor you mentioned so I think I'll make an adapter which fits in the current fanducts and then can be used with the "old" original blower, that should be sufficient in first step.

Best regards
Martin

Hi!

Thank you so much! If you finished the adapter please notice me and I will print it ASAP ^_^

Hello, you haven't mentioned what fanduct you using, bc for Regular and 3D version two different adapters will be needed. I created one for the regular fanducts, if you got the 3D version you'll have to wait 1-2 days till i find time again to make the 2nd one. If you got regular, you could test the file i attached to this message. I haven't printed it yet but I would recommend to print it the way the stl is with a Brim and support from Bed (like on the picture). Or you lay it down flat but use support on the inside thats up to you.

Hi. Thank you, tomorrow I will print it and give you feedback.

Ah I see it now. I must have been looking at something the wrong way. Sent ya a tip. Have a beer or cup of coffee on me.
My project now is trying to edit the chiron firmware to my ai3m. And getting the anycubic z probe on it. I actually like the touch screen lol.

Hi again, thank you very much for the tip.
So do you want to use the anycubic z probe on my carriage or what you got in mind ;)?

I was thinking about it. But you already have the bltouch working nicely.
maybe I should just bite the bullet and install 1.1.9 bugfix. So I can work on multi extrusion.
Maybe adding your own 2 to 1 to this system might be interesting.

Hey, do you think you could give me somewhere to pm you for help? I'm relatively new to this, and there are some parts I don't understand very well, where I may need someone to guide me through it. Thanks.

You can use the personalmessage function of thingiverse if you got problems with the project.

Hallo, Superteil, Du hast es drauf. Bin gerade am drucken. Ich hoffe, Du hast die Toleranzen großzügig gehalten. Ich melde mich wieder, weiter so und danke.
Gruß
Ronald

Hello, super part, you have it. I'm just printing. I hope you have kept the tolerances generous. I'll get back to you, keep up the good work and thanks.
greeting
Ronald

Hallo & danke, falls du die e3dV6 druckst, bitte Dateien neu laden und die NEUE Coverplate version drucken, ich habe eben einen Bemaßungsfehler entdeckt und entfernt. Vielß spaß mit dem Carriage.

Hi & thanks, if you're printing the e3dV6, please reload files and print the NEW Coverplate version, I just found a dimensioning error and removed it. Have fun with the carriage.

greets M.

I'm a big fan of your work, currently I'm using MK1 (v5) and going to switch to this new version.

Thanks for integrated belt tensioners!

One thing I noticed: it is not so easy to attach/detach funduct while changing nozzle and so on because you have to hold damn nuts.. It would be great to have notches in a funduct, like in a frontplate, to fix nuts inside them. Could you make this? Or maybe you could share source file for this funduct and I will try to make remix of this part?

Again, thanks a lot, your carriage is amazing!

Hello, Glad to hear you're happy using my work, then MK2 ist perfect for you it prints even better and has lots of advantages compared to first version.
Sadly I have to say that your idea won't work for the new MK2, because the screw system of the two lower screws you're talking about is quite different compared to Mk1 Carriage: In Mk1 case you had to screw the bolt and hold the nut on the opposite (fanduct side) against it so a slot holding the nut would be possible in MK1, but now there is a nut in between that means, Backplate and Frontplate are always fixed together and you can change the fanduct without turning the screw just by screwing the Hex nut on the fixed bolt (locking nut system) that is the reason why you need a hex nut socket spinner driver or the printed coupler to mount the fanduct, but this type of mounting is easier than in MK1 (my personal experience). I would recommend to you to test the system if it's still annoying I will think about a solution. Take a close look at the explosion drawing or the animation I provided you will see the things I described here if you look closely.

Best regards
M.

Thanks a lot for response!
Now I see.. yes, I agree that this way to fix funduct is easier than mk1. Lets test drive it :)

Put this together yesterday. My thoughts follow.

First, great model. The main components are tightly toleranced, and fit very well. Lockup on the bushings was dead on tight but not difficult. I plan on using it. Actually, I need to reprint it in PETG for durability, because I like it.

However, the same tight tolerances cause problems for non critical areas. For instance, the nuts are deeply recessed in the back of the front plate. I don't think that's necessary. Just spec longer screws. This would eliminate the need for spacers, and make assembly easier. I had trouble getting the nuts well seated that deep, and actually stripped one hole out because I had to use a bolt to pull the nut into seated depth. Second, not all fasteners are the same dimensions. The nuts and bolts I got from my local hardware store were slightly larger than the holes, and none of the recessed holes fit without significant force/work. I don't think the bolthead recesses need to be quite so tight to still function well.

This occurs again in a very problematic area, the belt tensioners. I had to sand them down to get them to fit into the rear body, and then had a tough time getting the bolt holes to align with the nuts because the tight fit allowed no wiggle for alignment. I think the tolerances there could be loosened to make that fit easier to obtain. There's no need for them to be super tight in those holes, as the alignment requirement is central through the tensioner body to line up with the nuts.

The tolerance issues may be negated if someone has their setup super well sorted, so that they don't have any error in the printed dimensions, but I am not so lucky. I will say though, I had zero problems with the custom support and my main large components all fit perfectly together. So, I think my calibration was fine, overall.

Minor thoughts:

The rear fan mount works great, but creates a bit of a lever arm. My fan vibrates quite a bit and makes some noise. Might could use some support on top to cut the vibrations down.

I love to see fewer fasteners required. I'd also love to see the hotend mount a little higher than stock, but it's not really a big deal at all.

I never figured out what the bolt (M3x20) through the middle of the assembly is for. The hole goes all the way through, but it doesn't fasten to anything. I left it out.

hello, sorry my last answer was "flagged by moderation" but i dont know why.

To put the information in a nut shell:

  • Please wait with PETG reprints until upcoming weekend, because i will publish updated versions
  • The recesses of boltheads will be revised
  • I will look at the Belttensioner thing
  • Please tell me which fanduct version u used that causes vibrations
  • less fasteneres are not planned because each has its function for the whole assembly-idea to have removable parts without disassemble the whole carriage
  • The m3x20 screw in the middle goes into a 2.9mm hole, so it cuts a thread by itself, as i said in description this screw prevent the hotend from rotating when you tighten it the rotational degree of freedom is taken away.

Hopefully the "original" comment will come back soon.

Best regards and thanks for feedback

I got it in an email, no worries. I understand on the fasteners. It's not a big deal... honestly, I think if they were a bit easier to get in place (without being quite so tight), I probably wouldn't have even noticed. I agree that the ability to replace parts individually is worth it.

I'm using the v6 (non-3d) duct. But I don't think they mount differently, do they? I think having some point of contact with the main body at the top might work, but not sure how. It seems like the fan assembly is springing around on the two lower mounting points. I guess you could have the top fan mount bolt be a little longer and come through the rear body panel, since the fan mounts with a nut there. Not sure if that would have other penalties/tradeoffs I'm not aware of though.

And I have to wait on the PETG anyway. Right now it prints like crap for me, and I need to figure out my settings for it before I make anything functional with it. :-)

Again, great work on this! I'll try to put up a photo of mine in a day or so.

/edit: One last thing. The zip tie slot in the top of the back. Again, mine came out too tight to use. That could be increased just a tiny bit to allow easier routing. Or I guess I might need to get the zip tie in there before assembly, but then I couldn't change the zip tie without taking the whole thing apart.

Please re-download the files I uploaded right now, I've changed a dimensioning in Coverplate for the V6 versions, there was a wrong dimensioning I overlooked. Sorry.

Ok yeah I'll take your points in mind for my upcoming changes.
The zip tie should be easily be removable so I'll adjust that as well sorry for that.
It's always same, you think things are done publish them and then endless stream of problems appears :D I already got 100h+ with this Carriage printed ALL parts for my new Hypercube evolution with it, but never thought the tolerances will produce so much trouble for others because I printed like 4-5 prototypes of the whole assembly. I even made a durability test for the Belttensioner, but nevertheless I'm very happy you provide your impression of the design and that is why I had the thing on 'work in progress' from the beginning, because this time the design was more complex than the MK1, had a lot more versions and more parts acting together. But that's once more a point where you see how printer calibration and slicing settings influence print resultsa and even more when these are working/interacting parts.

Hello and thanks for the long feedback,

first of all if you're going to reprint in PETG wait some days because i will release updated files on the weekend with some changes to the points people mentioning in the comments. It seems that i got my printer calibration and slicer settings trimmed a way too good that i don't got any problems with these small tolerances, but yeah honestly I have to adjust that to get the prints more easy to be printed by others.

I'll take your advice for the bolthead recesses into next update for sure thanks. I'll also have a look at the Belt tensioner thing.

What version of Fanduct did you use where you got the vibration issues with?

The amount of fasteners required came from the idea of having parts that still hold together when changing others, for example if you want to change your hotend or axialfan you can loosen the 6 bolts on the front, but main carrier stays same.
As well i decided to choose 6 bolts for front and backplate to make sure the Bearings won't move or get into unnecessary vibrations.

To your question about the m3x20 bolt in the middle, its also described in the summary/post processing, the hole for this bolt is only 2.8mm so the bolt does not need a nut and it cuts a thread into the material. If you look close where the bolt ends: it ends at the hotend, so if you got problems with the hotend rotation degree of freedom when it sits between coverplate and frontplate, you can tighten that screw and it will prevent the hotend from any rotation.

Thank you so much for this, I've printed the parts and my E3D V6 Hotend arrived today so I am going to assemble it today or maybe tomorrow :)

I have to agree that the custom supports are too hard to remove.. I couldn't get them off at all with different pliers, a file, the spittel etc. In the end I had to use a Dremel to get rid of them. Unfortunately that ruined the place for the IGUS bearings quite a bit, so not sure if I have to re-print it again.

Also I could not get the AI3M text into the front plate yet. The recess for the characters does not really fit (Maybe it is bad calibration on my end). I think what might help in a future release is to just have the outlines of the characters on the frontplate, so for example the small triangle within the letter A is removed. By doing this, one could just play with the size of the characters a bit until it fits. When scaling the characters, the small triangle recess is also getting smaller and doesn't fit into it. Having just the outlines or some sort of a "funnel" design where one could push the letters in as far as possible and apply some glue would probably be easier.

I can't wait to get it assembled and installed, looks so cool and promising - and the whole instructions / layout and options are amazing. Thank you very much for this.

Please re-download the files I uploaded right now, I've changed a dimensioning in Coverplate for the V6 versions, there was a wrong dimensioning I overlooked. Sorry.

Hi and thanks for your feedback, as you also mentioned the support thing like the other guy, I guess I will remove some support structures so people can use their own settings. Where did you have problems with support beside the half rounds in the bearing slots? What about the hex nut hole ones and what about the ones on the baseplate and coverplate? Can you give me some details about them?
My problem with this is that I can't know how well people trimmed their settings of flow, Retract and bridging, what causes differences in print results of the layer above support. But if the custom Support would be completly removed people will have to use support structures everywhere resulting in an extremely large amount of unnecessary structures for those who use Cura etc. where you can't place custom support in the slicer. But with your information I definitely have to work on the structures, in first step by raising z-distance up to 0.25mm, this will definitely be easy removable.
The Ai3M text thing will be fixed in next release on the weekend. Sorry for the issues.

If you're finished I would love to see you Carriage if you want to post it here as a Make.

Best regards
Martin

Hi, nice design! Is it posible to make a version for Igus bearings?

Hello, yeah I already talked with supersin about that (commentary below), tomorrow I will take look at my CAD files and see what I can do, but I can't test it so far just make the design and someone has to test how it fits and works who has Igus bearings. As far as I saw from igus description it's just about the length of the bearing holder so I will do a 48mm long bearing slot which takes 2x bearings on each rod.

Thanks! Yes, 48mm is enough space for 2 Igus bearings.

Hi again, i changed few things and updated some as well as the IGUS slide bearings thing, you can find extra Front- and Backplates in the additional zip folder, the bearing seats are now long enough.

Sieht sehr gut aus ;-)

Hast Du auch eins für mich ohne 5015 Blower aber dafür mit 4040 Lüfter?

Wie sind die Offsets für den BLTouch?

Gruß

Looks very nice;-)

Do You habe a 4040 Fan Version as Partcooler for me?

How are the offsets for the BLTouch?

Greets

Hallo und danke,
ich habe ein Bild angehängt mit den Maßen für die V5 und V6 Version. Allerdings habe ich auch so eben eine Aktualisierung des BLTouch Halters für das V6 vorgenommen, da mir ein Fehler mit dem Halter aufgefallen ist. Die Maße auf dem Bild entsprechen den aktuellesten Daten. Die Höhe ist die maximale Höhe, nach unten kann um 1-1,5mm justiert werden. Sollte das nicht ausreichen kann ich noch anpassungen vornehmen, daher auch der Hinweis mit dem Protoypen in der Beschreibung, da ich erstmal einen Testerkandiaten brauche um zu wissen ob es gut läuft.

Bezüglich des 4040 Fanducts werde ich in den kommenden Tagen etwas veröffentlichen, sobald ich die Zeit finde was zu konstruieren. Ggf. passe ich erstmal die Datei an die ich dir gegeben hatte für das MK1 V6.

Falls du doch nicht so gut Deutsch sprichst und nur für mich übersetzt hast:

Hello and thank you,
I have attached a picture with the dimensions for the V5 and V6 version. However, I just updated the BLTouch holder for the V6, because I noticed an error with the holder. The measurements on the picture correspond to the most current data. The height is the maximum height, you can adjust it 1-1,5mm downwards. If this is not enough I can make some adjustments, therefore the note with the prototype in the description, because I need a tester to know if it works well.

Regarding the 4040 fanduct I will publish something in the next days, as soon as I find the time to construct one. If necessary I will adapt the file I gave you for the MK1 V6.

Greets.

Ich habe es für andere ins englische übersetzt ;-)
Wenn Du mir ein Fanduct für 4040 Lüfter machst, kann ich ja dann für dich testen und Dir meine Meinung durchgeben.

Gruß

Zum fanduct oder zum BLtouch Halter ;)? Der fanduct wird funktionieren ist ja nur ein anderer Lüfter etc. Wobei ich persönlich keinen axialfan nehmen würde aber das ist geschmacksache und da kann der Fanduct ja nichts zu ;). Aber falls du BLTouch hast wäre auch interessant. Ansonsten falls du es druckst gerne Make Posten und Feedback geben.

Ich meine Feedback für das komplette Design ;-)

Das 5015 blower von Sunon habe ich hier, aber es lässt sich nicht steuern. Laut ist es auch noch.

Ah ok ja super danke dir. Benutzt du denn BLTouch?
Ich hab auch mal nen Sunon gehabt, aber mittlerweile irgend einen China Lüfter, leise sind die radiallüfter leider nie... Bzgl der Lüftersteuerung also entweder du hast dir mal den Thermistor am board zerschossen (Lüfter Wechsel bei angeschaltetem Drucker) oder der Lüfter hat ne Macke.

Ich benutze den BLTouch fürs leveln...habe im Moment mit Titan Extruder direkt am Hotend. Weil es sehr viel Gewicht zu bewegen gilt, will ich auf Bowden umsteigen.
Ich lese gerade das nur linearlager mit kugeln drin funktionieren.
Ich habe die Gleitflager von igus

Ja die Lageraufnahme ist halt 45mm lang und hat nen Durchmesser von 15mm (jeweils mit leichter Toleranz bzgl der Druckgenauigkeit) je nach dem was die Gleitlager für Maße haben ist es aber kein Problem weitere Versionen zu machen und länge sowie Durchmesser anzupassen.
Edit: hab Grad Mal geschaut die iglidur von igus haben 15mm Durchmesser sind aber in der zweier Paarung 48mm lang, wenn du willst Stelle ich ne Version rein die oben und unten jeweils 48mm lang ist und damit je zwei Lager aufnimmt

Ich drucke erstmal alles und dann sehen wir weiter ;-)

Naja wenn du keine normalen Linearlager hast wird's schwierig, du brauchst aufjedenfall angepasste Front und Backplates ;)

Die gleitlager passen ja auch in die originalen Halterungen rein. Sollte dann bei deinem auch passen oder?

Ja vom Durchmesser passt es, aber die original Halter sind ja in zu den Seiten offen, bei mit sind diese geschlossen, auf 45mm (= Länge eines standardlinearlagers)

Jetzt weiß ich was Du meinst...

Hab mal die Baseplate gedruckt

Ja ich habe jetzt zusätzliche Front- und Backplates für Gleitlager eingestellt, außerdem noch einen kleinen Fehler für die custom supportstruktur bei den Frontplatten ausgemerzt. Dein Druck sieht erstmal sehr gut aus, sorry dass es mit den Gleitlagern nicht direkt gepasst hat. Ich hoffe der Druck an sich war gut umzusetzen mit Support struktur und Modellaufbau an sich.

Das implantierte Supportmaterial war schwer abzukriegen. Musste etwas mehr Gewalt anwenden.
Sonst sehr gut zu drucken.

Werde gleich mal anfangen die frontplate und baseplate zu drucken.
Gebe Dir danach Bescheid ob sie gut passen.

So...

Front und Base gedruckt...passt mit den igus...halten sogar ohne Schrauben ;-)
Nur Deine Supports sind zu stark. Hat mir Stück vom Bauteil abgerissen.

Jetzt brauche ich nur noch den 4040 Fanduct. Dann gehts weiter

Ok, heftig an der Stelle hätte ich jetzt nicht damit gerechnet, dass der Support so problematisch ist, ich schaue morgen nochmal in die Dateien ob der Abstand zu gering ist aber eigentlich ist überall in z 0.2mm und das geht meist gut ab aber die Schicht danach ist qualitativ noch in Ordnung.
Kannst du die beiden Schalen denn auch gut ohne Spalt aufeinander drücken? Weil auf dem Bild sind die so weit auseinander ...

Ja ich kann sie zusammendrücken...es sind ja keine Schrauben drin.

Und wie siehts mit meinem Fanduct aus?

Bin noch nicht dazu gekommen, denke es wird erst frühestens Mittwoch was sorry :/

Schade...aber ist nicht schlimm ;-)

Der einzige Fehler beim Drucken ist am Cover.
Das was am unteren Teil aussieht wie eine Kabelführung.
Der Drucker hats nur bis zur Hälfte gedruckt.
Wofür ist das denn eigentlich?

Ok, seltsam musste Mal in den slicer gucken ob des nicht ganz gesliced
wurde ansonsten hat der Drucker ja iwie vorzeitig abgebrochen. Habe davon schon 5-6 stk gedruckt bisher ohne Probleme. Das Teil löst den Endstop aus, also das ist aufjedenfall notwendig.

Ach so ok.

Bin gerade am drucken....diesmal hab ich mit Support gesliced

Würde das Fanduct passen, welches Du mir für die vorherige Version für 4040 angepasst hattest ?

Wenn ja würde ich den jetzt drucken.

Es fällt mir schwer bis Mittwoch zu warten wegen des Fanducts.. ;-)

Leider Keine Ahnung was bei dir da das Problem ist mit der Datei / dem Drucker ohne sonstige Informationen sorry.
Ne der fanduct passt nicht sowohl der Bohrungsabstand, als auch Höhe und Länge des gesamten Kanals sind anders.

Mit extra Support wird es schon ...

Ja ok... dann warte ich mal bis Mittwoch ;-)

Was ist denn der Unterschied zwischen Fanduct regular und 3D?

Ich weiß nichtmal wo du da extra Support brauchst, das Seitenteil wird doch einfach nur gedruckt mehr nicht. Siehste auf den Bildern, der 3D fanduct liegt nur vorne an der Nozzle nah am Heizbett und ist damit näher dran und der Rest des fanducts "aus dem Weg"

Habe jetzt nochmal alle Coverplates gesliced, da ist alles ok mit den STL. Bzgl des supportes der Baseplate sind auch die Maße in Ordnung.

Support war nur im Ring ...damit hat es geklappt. Weiß nicht warum es bei mir ohne extra Support nicht ging.

Jetzt passt es ja ;-)

Ja super ok, werde es mal beobachten ob andere auch das Problem melden.
Anbei dein fanduct (mal testweise, kannste ja einfach mal ausprobieren).

Cool, danke Dir..

Werde es gleich mal ausdrucken ;-)

Sollen eigentlich die einzelnen Buchstaben in die jeweilige Aussparung reinpassen? Meine sind zu groß und passen nicht rein.
Vielleicht liegt es an meinen slicer Einstellungen in Simplify3d.
Welchen slicer benutzt Du denn?

Benutze Cura, dann Skalier die halt auf 98% oder so

Hey...

Hab gerade ein Make gepostet.
Hat alles gut geklappt mit kleineren Schwierigkeiten wie zB die Kabelführung von vorne nach hinten.

Der Fanduct passt soweit, nur sieht es etwas komisch aus, weil es hinten nicht mittig ist ;-)
Ich weiß ja das Du es vom Blower umgeändert hast.
Die 3D variante des Fanducts wäre für mich noch wichtig, weil es dann etwas mehr Platz zum Bett wäre.

Aber man sieht echt, das Du dir gedanken gemacht hast bei deinem Design.
Die Distanzhülsen zB finde ich echt super. Auch die Spannvorichtung für den Riemen ist gut umgesetzt.

Jetzt warte ich nur noch auf die 3D Variante des Fanducts.

Dann mach ich schönere Fotos für mein Make.

Danke, habe es gerade schon angesehen als du den Kommentar gepostet hast. Ja die axialfan Variante war jetzt erstmal auf die schnelle damit du etwas hast. Wie läuft es mit den Lagerleichtgängigkeit? Hat sich bei mir damit deutlich verbessert.

Würde der axialfan den mittig sitzen können ohne links anzustoßen beim Homing? Kannst du das prüfen?

Die Lager laufen sehr gut... habe aber die seitlichen Löcher etwas vergrößern müssen, weil die Welle dran geschliffen hatte.

Als Lager laufen bei mir selbst gedruckte igus Lager ;-)

Komischerweise laufen die besser wie die originalen ;-)

Wieso sollte es den beim homing stören? Ich meine hinten den Hals mit dem Lüfter mittig machen. Sonst bleibt ja alles so wie es ist.
Wenn es mittig Sitz, ist es immerfort schmaler wie die Base und Front .

Oder meintest du was anderes? Der untere Teil vom Duct bleibt doch gleich oder nicht?

Ja der Radiallüfter würde wenn er mittig sitzt gegen den Stepper Motor stoßen daher ist das so versetzt. Habe es ja nie mit einem axial getestet oder mich weiter mit beschäftigt. Aber ja du hast sicherlich Recht da es nur 40mm breit ist.

Aber witzig dass du das sagst mit den Lagern, bei mir laufen die gleichen Lager wie vorher (Misumis) mit dem neuen Carriage deutlich besser, reibungsärmer und leiser ;)

Das mit den Gleitstangenbohrungen wundert nicht sehr, bei mir ist dort ein Radialspiel von ca 2mm, aber ich werde den Durchmesser dann Mal iwann noch um nen mm erhöhen.

Der Axiallüfter hinten wäre ja wie wenn du von vorne schaust, der Lüfter vorne exakt gleich.

Jup hast vollkommen recht, aber dass der bei dir so versetzt ist liegt nur daran dass ich erstmal die alte Datei angepasst hab Montag Abend.

Ein Hinweis noch: mit gedruckten lagern aufpassen, die neigen nach kurzer Einlaufzeit extrem zu stick-slip, dann lieber die iglidur von Igus für paar Euros kaufen und keine Probleme mit Layershift bekommen, wenn es schon Gleitlager sein sollen.

Hab 2 verschiedene von igus... auch die teureren mit Metall außen... kann ja dann wechseln, falls die Drücke schlecht werden sollten .

Da fällt mir ein das heute ja Mittwoch ist .... ähem.. hust...jémand hatte mir ein Fanduct für Mittwoch versprochen ;-)

3D Version ich haben will

Das mit der 3D Version dauert noch paar Tage da muss ich Mal etwas Ruhe und Zeit haben für und das ist unter der Woche schlecht ;)

Wenn Du schon am Wochenende Änderungen vornehmen willst, habe ich auch einen Punkt für Dich.
Es betrifft die BLTouch Halterung.
Die Höhe passt bei mir perfekt. Nur wäre die Halterung am Frontplate besser als wie jetzt am Cover.
Wenn ich das hotend entfernen will, habe ich kaum Platz , weil die Kabel vom Lüfter links und vom BLTouch rechts am Cover dran sind.
BLTouch am Frontplate würde dafür sorgen, das der Cover links seitlich abgelegt werden kann, und somit leicht am hotend gearbeitet bzw.. entfernt werden kann

Kannst Du mir die step.dateien schicken? Ich würde gerne probieren, den BLTouch näher an den Extruder zu bringen. Dazu will ich den Fanduct schmaler machen oder nur einseitig von links die Luft an das Bauteil zu bringen. So könnte ich den BLTouch rechts näher an den extruder bringen.

Das Kabelproblem verstehe ich jetzt nicht so wirklich, du kannst die Kabel vom Lüfter doch einfach rechts vorbei führen indem du den Lüfter um 90 bzw. 180° drehst, die passen sogar hinter dem BLTouch her. Zumal auf der linken Seite der Endstopper ist, daher ist es eh besser das ganze nach rechts "abzuklappen".

Step files gebe ich nicht raus sorry, dafür war das ganz über MK1 bis hin zu MK2 zu viel Arbeit und Zeitaufwand. Wenn du konkrete Vorstellungen hast musst du entweder schauen ob andere Carriages deine Ideen besser umsetzen oder halt selber bauen so wie ich.
Da ich jetzt meinen neuen 3D Drucker baue, werde ich am Any kaum noch arbeiten d.h. ein komplette Überarbeitung des Designs aller Fanducts, Frontplates etc. wie du auch unten vorgeschlagen hast wird wohl kaum drin sein das dauert extrem lange, zumal ich nicht den ganzen Tag damit verbringe zu konstruieren sondern nur in meiner Freizeit :D Hoffe du verstehst das, falls der BLTouch zwingend näher an der Nozzle sein muss, habe ich aktuell noch keine Lösung parat ohne das bisherige komplett über den haufen zu werden. Ggf ist ja eher dann das hier was für dich: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092917 da sieht es so aus als wäre der BLTouch zumindest in y Richtung nicht versetzt.

Bowden MK3 R3 X-carriage for the Anycubic I3 Mega
by Audisis

Ja kann ich nachvollziehen.Ist ja auch viel Arbeit. Deshalb habe ich ja nach den step Filets gefragt.

Mir gefällt dein Design auch so.

Aber den 3D Fanduct machst Du noch oder? ;-)

An den Fanducts arbeite ich in nächster Zeit, versuche aktuell fehler zu finden und noch auszubessern. Bitte die dateien neu laden und die Coverplate neu drucken für das V6 Hotend da gab es einen Bemaßungsfehler.

Ok danke. Warte dann auf den 3D Fanduct für 4040 Lüfter.

Die Dateien werde ich runterlasen und neu drucken. Danke auch dafür ;-)

@Supersin habe so eben die Fanducts für Axialfans hochgeladen (im Ordner "Various Parts")

Richtig geil wäre es wenn der BLTouch x15 und y0 vom Extruder an der Frontplate befestigt würde und der rechte Arm vom Fanduct auf Höhe dersBLTouch pins sich aufsplitten würde das heißt der PIN würde durch den Arm gehen.

Das wäre Design technisch gesehen der Hammer ;-)
Würde bestimmt geil aussehen.