Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Case for RepRapDiscount Smart Controller

by wersy, published

Case for RepRapDiscount Smart Controller by wersy Nov 23, 2012
25 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

65325Views 19102Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories


As a guideline I had this very beautiful design of reprapdiscount:
But it was impossible for me to change it in a way to make it easily printable. So I decided to make my own version. But I wouldn't do it without using the excellent professional made little elastic kill button.
While I created this case I had neither the LDC board nor the LCD. So "Hardwarekiller" send me, very exactly, all the needed measurements by email - and everything's fit well.


To let the case apear more flat (and to cover possible impressisions ;-) I created a channel outside between the top and bottom part.
I had to learn that the LCD sizes are a bit different even if they look similar. Therefore I made two variants of the top case with different cut outs for the display:
Top Case cut out 98.4 x 40.4 mm
Top Case cut out 97.4 x 40.4 mm
There are also two variants of the bottom case for the cable slots coming out only on the front side or on back and front side:
Bottom Case front slots
Bottom Case back and front slots
The case with back and front slots is 0.5 mm higher to give more room for the cable between the controller board and the bottom, in case you want the cable coming out on the back side.
The bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps.
If you use the kill button 8.5 mm it will stick out 0.5 mm. It is then easier to push.
To assembly you need:
4 screws M3 x 12 with nuts
4 screws M3 x 20with nuts
2 self-cutting screws 2 mm x 5 (for the button but it works also without tighten it).
To get the controller knob lower you have to shorten the tack for about 4 mm.

Edit 29.12.2012
"MikeP-NZ" post his printed controller case but use a different knob. I think it is much more practical to use this thinner knob. One can revolve it faster. So designed one like that and - I enjoy it already :-)

Update 03.May 2014
I add "controller knob 6,4"
It has an inner diameter of 6,4 mm which is 0,1 mm more.

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

Hi wersy

Nice case, looks great.
I'm trying to print a case that will include the arduino and ramps board. I'm having the same problem of finding the dimensions for the smart controller. Could I get a copy of the document you mentioned that has the dimensions?


At that time I got the measurements by and by by email. I didn't keep anything after the case was ready.
If you have the board it is easey to take the measurements. You need the board anyway to control your prints.

This is the kind of stuff that drives me crazy. Yes I have a caliper and can monkey around with the assembled board and estimate the centerlines between the stop button and the encoder, and the distance between the board edge and the lcd… but with as many of these things are made and sold there should be a mechanical drawing out there somewhere with all of these dimensions documented. I could also get the information from the board layout at the wiki but I don’t have access to Altium tools. And I don’t know what they are claiming to be gerber files but it is a single file with a .pcb extension. Gerber files should be multiple files, one for each layer and a drill file.
There is a drawing here but it’s not complete.
So I’ll probably make a bunch of measurements, and the tolerance errors of these hand measurements will stack up to the point where the board won’t fit right and I’ll have to scrap my print.

The drawing of RepRapDiscount is a very good basis. There's not much left to measure.
To get results as accurate as possible, I recommend to always measure from both sides.
And yes, take it easy, to print for the trash is one side of our interesting hobby.

does it fit the Tarantula i3 LCD?

Sorry, I don't know, I don't have this LCD.

Comments deleted.
May 9, 2016 - Modified May 9, 2016

The top part fits the "Smart LCD 2004 Display Controller for RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D printer Electronics" http://www.ebay.com/itm/252116438358
However this case has a problem that there is not room for the cables connectors that stick out from the back of the circuit board. I ended up extending the bottom part of the printout by 16mm, but that was a very rough approach since I just stretched everything in the virtical axis, thus also the lip. Maybe a new design can be posted by the original author for that need?

May 14, 2016 - Modified May 14, 2016
wersy - in reply to blouwagie

I uploaded Bottom Case 16 mm
Is it that what you mean?

Thank you for changing that. Your new design is now 16mm. What I did need is 16 mm higher than the old design, so a lot taller. At least for the board that I got the cable connectors need a lot of space. I stretched your prior design vertically which distorted things a lot, like the slots are way too tall but it generally worked for me.

I uploaded Bottom Case 28 mm, is it like this?
Anyway, it looks somehow plump ;-)

Thank you!

Definitely doesn't fit my 'Sintron' branded controller, but printed well nonetheless.

I had the same issue too, reset button is about 5mm out

Mar 6, 2016 - Modified Mar 6, 2016
wersy - in reply to Gluon45

Oh please, do not look through the hole - just put in the kill button and push it ;-)
But 5 mm seems much.
Allthough it is not aligned, contact should still be possible when using the original board. And yes, I moved the hole a little down to make room for a bigger knob. However, now I prefer the smaller knob, which I also have added, and I feel is much better to handle.

hi wersy! i wonder if you could take the time to make knobs that fit the other type of rotary encoder: the star shape. thanks

Sorry, but I must have the controller in hand to measure it and test the print

It's as hoangsta wrote:

  • The hole for the LCD contrast on the rear of the case does not line up
  • The connectors on the back of the LCD itself does not sit flush inside the case. In order for it to fit, I had to cut a square hole in the back case
    But all in all a very good work. Thank you for sharing

Unfortunately there are slightly different controller boards.
I'm glad you could make it fitting.

Fine that you finally could match the case to the board.
It looks nice. Thank you for sharing.

I printed this case before I took measurements. This is for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 with LCD combo. The hole for the LCD contrast on the rear of the case does not line up. It doesnt matter anyway because once the contrast is set, its good to go. The LCD panel was off by about 1mm. So I enlarged the dial knob and the LCD snaps right in. The connectors on the back of the LCD itself does not sit flush inside the case. In order for it to fit, I had to cut a square hole in the back case.

I drilled a hole on the SD Card side and mounted it to the side of the printer using a 4mm screw and T-Slot nut. With just one screw, I am able to tilt the LCD. I don't use the SD card feature, atleast not yet, so it doesnt matter if it is blocked.

Awesome! I'll try it

Thank you. Have fun when printing - and maybe we'll see a photograph of it ?

I have 2 reprapdiscount modules (clones from ebay) and unfortunately the back plate does not fit because the double connectors on my boards is mounted horizontal and not 90 degrees. By the way i like your simple and clean design!

What a pity! Clones can be different sometimes.
Thank you for the compliment.

what do i do with the clamp?

You can use the clamp to fasten the controller case to 8 mm rods, horizontal or vertical.
Just drill through the nut pockets which you need.

Unfortunately, the knob's center hole is a tiny bit too narrow. I suggest you make it a bit larger (just a tiny little bit) and add ridges to the hole for extra grip.

I wonder nobody commented on that before. It is generally a problem to print tight holes precise. It depends often of what temperature, speed, material, slicer and settings are used. Though I meanwhile have some experience, I use to make some test prints first if the holes must be rather exactly. I am afraid, ridges would make it even more incalculable.
But I can make variations with different hole diameter. In your case, say +0.1 mm? Tell me which knob it is and I can upload it.
But currently I can't upload with my poor internet acces. It will take at least some days - we had a lightning strike into our house...

I think a 0.1mm larger hole should work. Thanks in advance. It's the circular knob (controller_knob.stl).

I just uploaded "controller knob 6.4.stl".
I hope it fits better for you now, otherwise let me know it.

Thanks! It fits a lot better now. However, the hole is a tiny tiny tiny bit too large now. It's a snug fit, but it's not very tight. Perhaps make it 0.02mm smaller?

Do you mean 0.02 mm around? That would make minus 0.04 mm difference of the hole, including the flat side.
Or do you think to make the komplete hole minus 0.02 mm? I am not shure if the printer will notice such little difference.
What if I set the flat side 0.05 mm to inside (where it was before) and let the hole to 6.4 mm?
Note, the inner corners are never printed sharp. Maybe you chamfer the edges of the shaft a little if it is tight?

I think 0.05mm flat side to the inside would work.

why not adjust your flow rate to 80% on the original? your florwate is to heigh

I just uploaded "controller knob 6.4 mod.stl" with 0.05 mm flat side to inside.
Additionally I extended the hole with a round hole 0.6 mm height and chamfered the knob on top and bottom to give it a slim look.
I am curious if it fits and you like the design.

I uploaded a version "controller knob 6.4 mod2.stl". That means the hole is 2 mm deeper.
That will give the knob more guidance and footing.

Case also fits the ebay lcd board i have not sure of the seller but looks like there are many clones being sold on ebay. Nicest fitting case ive ever printed out. When i get it finished ill post a picture.
Thank you...

Very well done, it looks like piano paint - really noble :-)
Thanks for your feedback, I am glad you like it.

At the right side seems to be a little gap. Did you used the 98,4 mm version?
The case looks great. What material you used and how did you manage to make so smooth and glossy?

Oah your rite the gap is not noticeable except with the camera flash. I believe i used the 97.4 case.
Not knowing how it would turn out i used the ugliest filament i had (like olive drab green) Turns out it fit so well i scraped it with a razor blade then painted it with 2 coats of gloss black fusion paint (the stuff that sticks to plastic) i use it allot and its great stuff! All the captive nut slots worked perfectly the button and sd slot work great. I have printed a few cases for things before and this is the nicest design by far. I even ordered another lcd for my other printer so soon ill have another case printed out... Thanks

Is this display using the I2C bus or individual bus wires? Looks like a neat unit.

I printed this and the hole for the "e-stop" doesn't line up, in fact it is quite far off. Is this due to the rotary switch size or has reprap discount changed the board?

Here is a picture of how much the hole is off, I did confirm this with another person. This is a black board LCD/SD.


Oh please, do not look through the hole - just put in the kill button and push it ;-)
Allthough it is not aligned, contact should still be possible. And yes, I moved the hole a little down to make room for a bigger knob. However, now I prefer the smaller knob, which I also have added, and I feel is much better to handle.

the same here :(

Hi Le-Seaw
You did print a case also? How about showing a picture ;-)

Hi, dear

It is good case for smart lcd from reprapdiscount ebayer

I printed 98.4 top case, and back&front slot bottom case and it is perfect for me

too I printed kill button 8.5 

Thank you very much this is a good job

best regards

Thank you, I'm glad you like it. Which color you printed?
I would be very glad if you could post a picture to "MadeOne!"

Best regards