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Case for RepRapDiscount Smart Controller

by wersy Nov 23, 2012
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Hi wersy

Nice case, looks great.
I'm trying to print a case that will include the arduino and ramps board. I'm having the same problem of finding the dimensions for the smart controller. Could I get a copy of the document you mentioned that has the dimensions?


At that time I got the measurements by and by by email. I didn't keep anything after the case was ready.
If you have the board it is easey to take the measurements. You need the board anyway to control your prints.

This is the kind of stuff that drives me crazy. Yes I have a caliper and can monkey around with the assembled board and estimate the centerlines between the stop button and the encoder, and the distance between the board edge and the lcd… but with as many of these things are made and sold there should be a mechanical drawing out there somewhere with all of these dimensions documented. I could also get the information from the board layout at the wiki but I don’t have access to Altium tools. And I don’t know what they are claiming to be gerber files but it is a single file with a .pcb extension. Gerber files should be multiple files, one for each layer and a drill file.
There is a drawing here but it’s not complete.
So I’ll probably make a bunch of measurements, and the tolerance errors of these hand measurements will stack up to the point where the board won’t fit right and I’ll have to scrap my print.

The drawing of RepRapDiscount is a very good basis. There's not much left to measure.
To get results as accurate as possible, I recommend to always measure from both sides.
And yes, take it easy, to print for the trash is one side of our interesting hobby.

does it fit the Tarantula i3 LCD?

Sorry, I don't know, I don't have this LCD.

Comments deleted.

The top part fits the "Smart LCD 2004 Display Controller for RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D printer Electronics" http://www.ebay.com/itm/252116438358
However this case has a problem that there is not room for the cables connectors that stick out from the back of the circuit board. I ended up extending the bottom part of the printout by 16mm, but that was a very rough approach since I just stretched everything in the virtical axis, thus also the lip. Maybe a new design can be posted by the original author for that need?

I uploaded Bottom Case 16 mm
Is it that what you mean?

Thank you for changing that. Your new design is now 16mm. What I did need is 16 mm higher than the old design, so a lot taller. At least for the board that I got the cable connectors need a lot of space. I stretched your prior design vertically which distorted things a lot, like the slots are way too tall but it generally worked for me.

I uploaded Bottom Case 28 mm, is it like this?
Anyway, it looks somehow plump ;-)

Definitely doesn't fit my 'Sintron' branded controller, but printed well nonetheless.

I had the same issue too, reset button is about 5mm out

Oh please, do not look through the hole - just put in the kill button and push it ;-)
But 5 mm seems much.
Allthough it is not aligned, contact should still be possible when using the original board. And yes, I moved the hole a little down to make room for a bigger knob. However, now I prefer the smaller knob, which I also have added, and I feel is much better to handle.

hi wersy! i wonder if you could take the time to make knobs that fit the other type of rotary encoder: the star shape. thanks

Sorry, but I must have the controller in hand to measure it and test the print

It's as hoangsta wrote:

  • The hole for the LCD contrast on the rear of the case does not line up
  • The connectors on the back of the LCD itself does not sit flush inside the case. In order for it to fit, I had to cut a square hole in the back case
    But all in all a very good work. Thank you for sharing

Unfortunately there are slightly different controller boards.
I'm glad you could make it fitting.

Fine that you finally could match the case to the board.
It looks nice. Thank you for sharing.

I printed this case before I took measurements. This is for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 with LCD combo. The hole for the LCD contrast on the rear of the case does not line up. It doesnt matter anyway because once the contrast is set, its good to go. The LCD panel was off by about 1mm. So I enlarged the dial knob and the LCD snaps right in. The connectors on the back of the LCD itself does not sit flush inside the case. In order for it to fit, I had to cut a square hole in the back case.

I drilled a hole on the SD Card side and mounted it to the side of the printer using a 4mm screw and T-Slot nut. With just one screw, I am able to tilt the LCD. I don't use the SD card feature, atleast not yet, so it doesnt matter if it is blocked.

Awesome! I'll try it

Thank you. Have fun when printing - and maybe we'll see a photograph of it ?

I have 2 reprapdiscount modules (clones from ebay) and unfortunately the back plate does not fit because the double connectors on my boards is mounted horizontal and not 90 degrees. By the way i like your simple and clean design!

What a pity! Clones can be different sometimes.
Thank you for the compliment.

what do i do with the clamp?

You can use the clamp to fasten the controller case to 8 mm rods, horizontal or vertical.
Just drill through the nut pockets which you need.

Unfortunately, the knob's center hole is a tiny bit too narrow. I suggest you make it a bit larger (just a tiny little bit) and add ridges to the hole for extra grip.

I wonder nobody commented on that before. It is generally a problem to print tight holes precise. It depends often of what temperature, speed, material, slicer and settings are used. Though I meanwhile have some experience, I use to make some test prints first if the holes must be rather exactly. I am afraid, ridges would make it even more incalculable.
But I can make variations with different hole diameter. In your case, say +0.1 mm? Tell me which knob it is and I can upload it.
But currently I can't upload with my poor internet acces. It will take at least some days - we had a lightning strike into our house...

I think a 0.1mm larger hole should work. Thanks in advance. It's the circular knob (controller_knob.stl).

I just uploaded "controller knob 6.4.stl".
I hope it fits better for you now, otherwise let me know it.

Thanks! It fits a lot better now. However, the hole is a tiny tiny tiny bit too large now. It's a snug fit, but it's not very tight. Perhaps make it 0.02mm smaller?

Do you mean 0.02 mm around? That would make minus 0.04 mm difference of the hole, including the flat side.
Or do you think to make the komplete hole minus 0.02 mm? I am not shure if the printer will notice such little difference.
What if I set the flat side 0.05 mm to inside (where it was before) and let the hole to 6.4 mm?
Note, the inner corners are never printed sharp. Maybe you chamfer the edges of the shaft a little if it is tight?

I think 0.05mm flat side to the inside would work.

why not adjust your flow rate to 80% on the original? your florwate is to heigh

I just uploaded "controller knob 6.4 mod.stl" with 0.05 mm flat side to inside.
Additionally I extended the hole with a round hole 0.6 mm height and chamfered the knob on top and bottom to give it a slim look.
I am curious if it fits and you like the design.

I uploaded a version "controller knob 6.4 mod2.stl". That means the hole is 2 mm deeper.
That will give the knob more guidance and footing.

Case also fits the ebay lcd board i have not sure of the seller but looks like there are many clones being sold on ebay. Nicest fitting case ive ever printed out. When i get it finished ill post a picture.
Thank you...

Very well done, it looks like piano paint - really noble :-)
Thanks for your feedback, I am glad you like it.

At the right side seems to be a little gap. Did you used the 98,4 mm version?
The case looks great. What material you used and how did you manage to make so smooth and glossy?

Oah your rite the gap is not noticeable except with the camera flash. I believe i used the 97.4 case.
Not knowing how it would turn out i used the ugliest filament i had (like olive drab green) Turns out it fit so well i scraped it with a razor blade then painted it with 2 coats of gloss black fusion paint (the stuff that sticks to plastic) i use it allot and its great stuff! All the captive nut slots worked perfectly the button and sd slot work great. I have printed a few cases for things before and this is the nicest design by far. I even ordered another lcd for my other printer so soon ill have another case printed out... Thanks

Is this display using the I2C bus or individual bus wires? Looks like a neat unit.

I printed this and the hole for the "e-stop" doesn't line up, in fact it is quite far off. Is this due to the rotary switch size or has reprap discount changed the board?

Here is a picture of how much the hole is off, I did confirm this with another person. This is a black board LCD/SD.


Oh please, do not look through the hole - just put in the kill button and push it ;-)
Allthough it is not aligned, contact should still be possible. And yes, I moved the hole a little down to make room for a bigger knob. However, now I prefer the smaller knob, which I also have added, and I feel is much better to handle.

the same here :(

Hi Le-Seaw
You did print a case also? How about showing a picture ;-)

Hi, dear

It is good case for smart lcd from reprapdiscount ebayer

I printed 98.4 top case, and back&front slot bottom case and it is perfect for me

too I printed kill button 8.5 

Thank you very much this is a good job

best regards

Thank you, I'm glad you like it. Which color you printed?
I would be very glad if you could post a picture to "MadeOne!"

Best regards