Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

L-Cheapo Laser Cutter Parts

by spiritplumber, published

L-Cheapo Laser Cutter Parts by spiritplumber Jun 5, 2014
0 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

11664Views 1562Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories


http://robots-everywhere.com/re_wiki/index.php?n=Main.LCheapo How to make (or buy) the L-Cheapo here, with photos and schematics.
The L-Cheapo is a laser cutter 3d printer accessory that will cut up to 3/16" wood or acrylic. It is in the process of being open sourced, so we're releasing the working drawings here.
The jig for making the heatsink is demoed here:


Zip-tie the fan to the upper end by the screw holes; zip-tie the PCB to to the middle; screw the heatsink in using the lower hole. Basically, see picture!
For the Solidoodle, you can use the Z screw holder with the kickstand to replace the stock screw holder.
For the generic mount, you'll have to come up with a kickstand appropriate for your printer.

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for business-to-business and business-to-consumer sales all over the world. W...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

I'm familiar with printer build, printer operation, Gcode and axis direction. I have found no one able to replicate your results
on acrylic regardless of the number of passes, the height of the work piece, focal point, etc. etc. .
You must be truly gifted. LOL

I own four L-Cheapos and can replicate the results on non-clear acrylic (you aren't using clear acrylic, right? You generally need up to 100-200% more laser output to cut clear acrylic) without any difficulty. Just make sure you've got the focal point dialed in (your 0.1s burn on paper should be less than 1 thou in diameter) and cut SLOWLY (4mm/s is my default speed for the mk1s for 0.1mm cut depth, so 20 passes for 2mm acrylic). These are the settings I got from Robots Everywhere when I did the beta.

Now I've got a mk4 and it screams along at 20mm/s and it's hilarious how fast it zips through my 1mm prototype sheets for game tokens and stuff.

I've found no one able to duplicate your results on acrylic.

Hello! To cut acrylic or thick wood with the L-Cheapo, do multiple passes, and be sure to set Z scaling to -1 so that the build plate moves up rather than down. You will likely have to jog the Z axis down a little (the thickness of the workpiece) before hitting print.

Very interesting. Never thought 2W diode lasers can be used to cut through something like 3/16 acrylic (like it shows on your http://indiegogo.comindiegogo.com video). At what speed are you cutting and how many passes does it take?

A lot - 30~50. This is definitely for prototyping rather than production :) But it does work, and you can do mitering.

I'm following with interest, I know it's a work in progress but could you work in proper threaded screws for the heatsink\fixing to the mount as it sends a shiver down my spine recalling the guy that fitted a CD writer into his desktop PC using 1" long wood screws & wondered why we wouldn't warranty it.
Also is there a risk to the build plate (Replicator 2) once the laser has cut through the material or do you swap it out?
Manufacturing parts or assemblies isn't as cheap as doing something yourself, I produce a electronics unit in small quantities & I'm realistically making a loss on each one I produce due to the assembly time involved, if I had to pay someone then I'd have to charge a whole lot more.

I use a "blank" (copper covered) circuit board as a background material, that is enough to diffuse the beam.

Sorry if you don't mind me asking, but what makes up the cost of this other than the laser and power supply that can be found for about $90?( http://www.ebay.com/itm/638nm-300mw-Red-Module-12V-TTL-Laser-Moudle-Orange-Red-laser-beam-RL300-/121155969659?pt=US_Stage_Lighting_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3575627bhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/638nm-... ) Isnt it possible to just hook the 12v output for the extruder right into this?

I had to set up a manufacturing line, hire a couple of people, etc. Making things in the US is expensive.
Also, most of those modules are intended to be on briefly (a few minutes at a time), not all the time.
Finally, note that the module you linked me is 0.3W and the L-Cheapo
is 2.1W -- this is why the L-Cheapo can actually cut plastic rather
than just engrave it; it's 7 times as powerful.

Awesome! thanks for being open about what is in your design, best of luck!