Hello everybody, it took me some time, but I got a working printable Drag-System.
After extensive testing ( see picture ) I decided to improve the reel further.
I added a line guard, and made the reel base 2mm thicker.
This should prevent the fishing line from jumping over the reel and tangling up in the back.
With the rim you can now add additional pressure when pulling on a fish and you have an even wider arc of movement when drilling a fish
I also added some small cutouts, and changed the centrepin measurements, to add additional clearance, for the increased thickness of the reel.
Still working on the drag system, I have quite some good ideas.
after lots of testing and redesigning, I present you a very versatile and usefull DIY self-locking and unlocking Side-Cast fishing reel.
Casting is a dream, it's really special and the line is just rocketing out of the reel with almost no resistance.
This comes at a price, you need to practice, not quite as difficult as fly fishing, but you will understand it, after you have tried.
The additional parts you will need :
- The very most important one : The axis, made after the tech-drawings I included in the document. There is also an stl-file with a printable axis. I don't think the printed axis will work very good, because it may flex a little bit too much.
Making the axis from metal on a hobby lathe is a 15 minute job. A realtively tight fit is preferable.
Edit : Of course you will need a 12 mm diameter rod about 10 cms long, preferable from aluminium or brass.
This is just an example for a reference, I did not buy this specific product :
Furthermore you will need :
1 Ball Bearing 608, a steel one is enough ( I'm using this one just for the giggles :https://www.kugellager-express.de/vollkeramik-miniatur-rillenkugellager-ce-608-zro2-ptfe-offen-8x22x7-mm)
The less play the bearing has, the better the action of the reel will be.
4 Ball bearings MR-63-2RS Miniatur Kugellager MR63 2RS / MR 063 2RS 3x6x2.5 mm
for example this one : https://www.kugellager-express.de/miniatur-kugellager-mr63-2rs-3x6x2-5-mm
2 axial-bearings of this type F5-10M Miniatur Axialkugellager F5-10M 5x10x4 mm 10
for example this one : https://www.kugellager-express.de/miniatur-axialkugellager-drucklager-f5-10m-m-5x10x4m-mm
one Carbon-Fibre-Tube 12x10 mm 10,5 cm length for example this one : http://www.drachenmarkt.de/epages/DRACHENMARKT.sf/de_DE/?ObjectID=16422781
one M5 cylindrical socket head 50mm for example this one : https://www.schraubenkasten.de/din-912-mit-innensechskant/m5-8-8-galvanisch-verzinkt-zylinderschraube/a-200585/
two M3 cylindrical socket heads 30mm for example this one https://www.schraubenkasten.de/din-912-mit-innensechskant/m3-8-8-galvanisch-verzinkt-zylinderschraube/a-200583/
one M5 self-locking-nut this one just as a referance : https://www.amazon.de/OxoxO-100pcs-Stainless-Self-Locking-Nylock/dp/B0788HX5LR?th=1
one M8 hexagon-steel nut
4 plastic BBs in 6mm, for example Airsoft-BBs. You can also use steel ones, if you prefer that, but it's not necessary and pretty heavy.
4 small 5 mm diameter and 15-20 mm long compression springs, so they can sit atop the bb. The stronger these springs are or the more you use of them, the stronger the self-locking and centering mechanism of the side-cast hinge will be.
an electric drill with a 6mm, 8,5mm and 10 mm drillbit.
some hot-glue and a glue-gun
a cigarette lighter
- perhaps something to eat and some soda.
How to print :
I tried and designed the parts as printer-friendly as possible.
You will need supports.
Griff : That's german and means grip, please print two of them standing as in the picture.
Nabe mit Aufnahme : That's also german and means Hub-with receiver, please print this with the big hole looking UP.
Aufnahme : This means receiver,it has nothing to do with firearms, it's the lower part of mechanical 3d-printed 90 degree-self locking bearing, also housing home to the 2 axial bearings on which the whole reel is pivoting. Please print this flat on the surface, with the cutouts for the bearings looking up, this will ensure maximum smoothness of the bearing action.
Centrepin, yes you can print him, it's not a good idea, make this from metal.
Laufrolle, this is also German, it's an awfull language, this means cam roller, print this lying, NO supports. This will take some time. Please print with 100 percentinfill.
- Montagestück und Kugellageraufnahme : Yep, German, like german sheepdog, or Mercedes, but Mercedes is actually Spanish. These funny words mean Mounting-Thingy and Ball-Bearing-Receiver, well I should have called it Reel-seat...and Ball-Bearing tensioner. Print it standing, and supports, if you can remove the supports inside the 4 M6 holes, not the center one. Simplify 3d is really pretty nice by the way.
After having taught you 6 totally technical German-words you can use to shine in front of your colleagues ( Look everyone this is a wonderfull Nabe mit Aufnahme) or your German Date ( Do you like my Mercedes, it has a Montagestück, I too have one.) you could buy me a beer.
I'm going to improve the reel further on, add a drag and a brake for example.
whatever you like Best results in PC, ABS , PETG, PLA in that order.
After printing everything
After printing everything, there should be 6 printed parts and several smaller parts lying in front of you.
Here is how you put everything together.
Please wear eye-protection, where appropriate wear a dust mask.
Please take the reel and try to seat the 608 bearing. If it's a ceramic bearing you should be able to see the bearing-balls, and not the cage so you can flush the bearing with water if it gets dirty. I left some space between the bearing seat and the bearing itself. By concentric printing such a large diameter the reel shrinks quite a bit and you should have a really tight fit. If you dont get it in, no problem take some sandpaper, for example 80 grit hold the reel in your hand and gently sand out the sides, while turning the wheel. You look for a tight fit. When you try to push the bearing in and your fingers get white while pushing and it enters, then you did it right. Take your time, this is one of the most important steps. Also check if your printer made some gobs inside the bearing seat, clean them out, you need a perfectly flat level.
Take the 2 grips and the four MR 063 2RS 3x6x2.5 mm. Push one bearing in each side of a grip, so there is a small gap of 2 or 3 mms to the outside. Insert the M3 screw in the grip and the bearings and screw the screw directly into the extruded mounting post right next to 608 bearing seat. The screw will push down the outer bearing, please stop when you notice adequate fit, but try to go almost all the way to the back for best performance and strength.
- Take the reel seat and the lower receiver. Take your electric drill and widen the 4 holes with the 6 mm drill so the BBS can go in and out freely. Do the same for the center holer in the upper and lower receiver. Switch to the 10 mm drill and gently, very gently flatten the bearing seat in the upper and lower receiver. After that, take your lighter out, heat up the flat end of the nail ( no, glowing red is too hot) and flatten the bearing seats in the upper and lower receiver. Take your knife and give the 4 holes for the bbs a quick soft deburring. Insert the M5 Locknut in the reelseat in the cutout. Please double check, that the nylon self locking portion is pointing UP. Pull it in with the m5 screw, so it sits in the bottom.
Screw out the screw.
Take the screw and put the first Axial Bearing onto it. Smear the bearing with some oil. Insert it into the lower receiver from the side UNDER the cutouts, so the screw is pointing up.
Put the next axial bearing between the upper and the lower receiver on the screw you just inserted into the lower receiver, which is now coming out of it.
Insert the 4 bbs into the cutouts in the lower receiver.
Insert your chosen compression springs into the 4 holes in the reel seat.
No comes the tricky part. Put those 2 parts together. Put on Safety glasses... .
Try to balance the end of the springs on the bbs, if the springs are not too long, it will work ok.
Screw in the m5 and tension everything to your liking. If you feel the locking position is too little, try to use stronger compression springs or use 2 of them in one hole (I do it like that)
Your bearing is now done.
Get your soda, and have a break.
Cut your Carbon fibre tube to 10,5 cms.
Test fit it into the hub and the lower receiver.
If everything looks fine glue the hub and the Carbon fibre tube together. Use a good amount of glue. Wait a bit for it to cool down.
Drill a 8,5mm hole through carbon fibre using the Hub as a guide.
Test fit your Centrepin through the hole and put your reel onto your pin and tighten it with the m8 screw.
Test fit it to your lower receiver, check the distance betwen the reel and the receiver.
It should not be more than 1 cm, and not less than a half cm.
Everything looks good ?
Very nice, take of the reel.
Take out the centrepin. Preheat it with your lighter, or the dissipation of the heat in the metal of the glue gun, will get it stuck in the middle.
Just a little preheat, not blazing dildo of the firequeen hot, just a little bit.
Apply lots of glue into the 8,5mm drill hole. Insert the Centrepin on the side with the cutout for it to sit.
Push it gently in until its flat with a surface.
Wait for it to cool down.
Take your lower assembly and your upper assembly.
Moment of truth.
Apply hot glue into the hole for the CF rod in the upper receiver.
Insert the CF rod and adjust everything so the centrepin and the lower receiver are parallel to each other and both are directed upwards in the same direction.
That's it, you're done.
I will add some pictures soon for the building process.
Please use Lock-tight on the m5 nut !
I'm playing around with this thing for about a year.
I wanted a side-casting reel, which could be build from scratch and easily available parts.
I somewhat succeeded in that, but the performance of the reels sourcing only easily available parts, didn't convince me.
I wanted to create something better, without breaking the bank, so everyone could enjoy this way of fishing.
I believe I managed to bring down the raw cost of the additional material to under 10 Dollars. The most expensive parts of the reel are the bearings, which for the grips, could be ignored, but I didn't like that.
I wanted the best possible feeling and connection to the fish I could get.
I wanted it as light as possible, and here's the first result.
Thank you for your interest.