Nautilus from Disney's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea

by WEDimagineer Jun 6, 2014
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i've made a stance for this model so you don't need to print the giant log.


Stance for nautilus

i was trying to make this model in pieces is that possible? I wanted to make one about three foot for my koa pond. any ideas?

i've done that with this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790695
printed 3 parts, glued together and painted
i'ts about 60 cm long now.

Nautilus from Disneys 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea
by Radem

I notice the sub models are waaaaaaay to big on opening and need to be scaled down(which is no prob) but the driftwood model is waaaaaaay too small. how much should i scale the subs down, and the driftwood up to achieve a similar proportion to the photo of the complete sculpture?

my best suggestion is to put both models in at the same time and scale them so that the nautilus is resting on the log like in the picture. then you can record the scales or export each model at that size so they remain the same size. the reason the log wass so tiny is because it is a 123d catch scan, so there were no measurements involved in the scan.

Yes, that is the original mesh, I had the original sculpture of the nautilus on the driftwood that I scanned, but it wouldn't scan correctly. Thanks so much for reminding me, I completely forget to add a link to the description.

nah no problem, I was going to print it but thought before I cut it into pieces lets see if there was a pre-cut version, and the one on sketchup warehouse is in panels, so it makes it a bit easier to do a larger one. I saw a photo once of a cut-away Nautilus with the interior too (that awesome furniture and everything) I'm sort of trying to mimmick that.

Sounds great, if you can find any photos of the furniture, especially Nemo's piano, could you please send me some so I can make them and put them on Thingiverse too. Also, make sure you run those panels through Project Miller before printing the parts. What I have discovered is that hollow parts on SketchUp have no thickness and therefore cant be printed unless they are solid objects. Project Miller will re-mesh the parts and make them 3D printable.

I actually use Blender for everything, and am pretty well versed at it now so I tend to manually do the work in that, it seems to be just as fast. It has a nice Solidify function you can apply and it also has an easy recalculation of normal maps, so the topology of the mesh ends up being quite watertight, with a nice hollow inside ready for infill or not, I will check out project miller, tho, cheers.