wind-up Bathtub Boat V5 - with benchmark test - Badewannen Boot zum Aufziehen - Funktionsfähig

by GreenDot Apr 10, 2019
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I really enjoyed reading your summary about the boat! It's cool to see other designers and engineers share their interest in physics and engineering with everyone. I'm working on tuning my printer settings to the benchmark tonight, I'll post a make when its finished. Thanks for sharing this design, my 5 year old is excited for it!

Really fun print - and toy! Thanks so much for making such a wonderful design!

Thanks a lot! Love to see your make ;)

Having trouble with gears not spinning. Everything is printed in PLA. The bevel gears spin great. Adding the large middle gear and everything spins freely with fingers but will not spin on its own. Adding the last large gear up front and the whole driveline takes some force to spin. It will not spin even with spring coiled to the max and some added help. I've drilled out the center holes on the gears to free things up but it was not much help. Can you offer any suggestions?

Maybe you got some elephantfoot. Print the middle and the first one (with the ratchet) again with elephantfoot compensation (something around 0.15 should work) and try again. Reduce the extrusion multi. It is not easy to help without photos or videos.

While waiting for your reply I tried resizing them all smaller and had some better results but still not perfect. Currently all gears at 99.94. I'll try resizing those front two as suggested.

Got it !!
Bevel gears at 99.94% and as suggested the first two large gears at 99.85%. Spins free and easy. The only other mod I made was changing the prop shaft to PETG. This was because the PLA shaft broke and the printer had PETG spooled.


I printed all except the long spindle bit which fails as it pops off my base plate after getting to about half way.
Is there any tips ? Can I print it laying flat maybe ?

I printed the spindle just fine using a brim on a glass bed, coated side up. Make sure you clean it with alcohol first.

Hello, there's an issue with the small wheel of the benchmark : The stl has 17 shells : each end of the teeths are separated from the main body. Can you check your stl ? (screenshots attached)

Are you using S3D? This is a special feature (bug) in some slicers. You have to split the surfaces and delete those you do not need.

I will fix the stl and reupload the fixed gear later. Thanks for your report

Yes thanks ( yes I use s3d) I managed to fix it with meshmixer, if you want I can send it to you

that's not a big deal. I have already uploaded the fixed STL. But I'm looking forward to your make;)

Done ! Posted in make section. Everything works fine, thank you for the design !

Sure ! Actually I printed all the wheels, but I have no screws long enough to assembly everything. So I ordered it in China, it may be long !

Thanks for your make ;)

Comments deleted.

Works well with ABS

does the spiral work too?

Yes it does. Probably works better because ABS tends to retain its original shape better.

I also remade the prop shaft "Antriebswelle" because it broke easily especially when the kids played with it. I added a hole to allow for an M3 for strength. Hasn't broke since.

Great model!

nice hack! Hey, post a make. I'm always happy about pictures!

Bei mir zieht er das Filament immer mit, was bei normalen Objekten nicht so schlimm ist, aber bei dem Zahnrad wird es unbrauchbar.

Ich möchte eigentlich nicht, dass sich das hier zu einem Print quality-troubleshooting entwickelt. Aber hier ein paar Tipps gegen das von dir beschriebene Problem:

  1. Verwende eine Originale, neue Düse. Billige oder verschlissene Düsen begünstigen Stringing extrem
  2. Verwende getrocknetes Filament für funktionskritische oder anspruchsvolle Bauteile. (PLA 55°C - 6-8 Stunden im Backofen trocknen)
  3. Aktiviere Coasting beim retract (Düse während dem Einzug reinigen) im Slicer
  4. Drucke einen Temptower im die optimale Temperatur für dein Filament zu ermitteln

Weitere Tipps findest du auf Facebook oder auf https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Kannst ja berichten, obs was gebracht hat.

I printed everything and love the design, but my wind-up doesn't have enough power for the gears to turn. I can move the gears by hand, but then I watched your video and yours appear to spin quite well. Mine are obviously binding a bit. Also, if this means anything I had to drill out every hole as they were too small for the screws. So does that mean there's some setting which is making things too "fat"?

Which material did you use? Looks like PETG. You have to print the moving parts in PLA. Especially the spiral spring, because PETG is not stiff enough. PETG also causes too much friction.

Did you print the benchmark first?

Reprint the bevel gears and the spiral in PLA with a 0.03% lower multiplier than usual. Then it should work.

I will try that. I printed the benchmark and the gears turn freely, but they don't "spin" - meaning, when I spin them, they stop immediately, not like yours on the video which continue to spin. Clearly there's just a tad too much friction. This was all printed with silk PLA; no PETG.

okay, it looks so shiny. btw nice color choice

I had the same issue. For me, enlarging the roles of the gears using a 3mm drill bit solved the problem, letting them spin freely.

Should we print all parts at 10% and 0.2? Or would the gears be best at 100% 0.1?

i tested the gears in 0.1, 0.15 and 0.2mm, all at 10 to 20% grid and it absolutely made no difference.
I recommend 0.2mm at 10% grid.
3 perimeters, 4 bottom and 5 top layers


Ich habe ein Problem das ich das 16er Ritzel nicht verbinden kann mit dem Bolzen, was kann ich da machen? Ich habe die Flow rate schon auf 96% bzw erste schicht 94% gesetzt. Gedruckt wird mit einem Wanhao I3 Mini und Cura.

ich muss den Faktor auf 91 für die Erste und auf 94 für den Rest setzen, damit es bei mir klappt. Versuche also, noch weiter runter zu gehen. So lange es auf den Flächen keine Löcher gibt, ist alles okay. Wenn doch, dann kannst mal prüfen, ob du nicht vielleicht eine neue Düse brauchst. Die günstigen Düsen halten bei mir etwa 3-4 Monate. Aber ich drucke auch recht viel. Versuchs erst mal mit dem Multiplikator.

It can print on M3D printer?

I'm not sure about the build Volume of a M3D. Maybe you have to cut some parts in the slicer and glue them together. Super glue and PLA is a nice combination.

The gears are all in a weird angle in slic3r. They are not flat on the surface. Is there a reason for that or how can i make them lay flat on the print surface in the software?

Edit: In the Pic i already rotated them 180°.

No reason. Use the place-on-top button to orientate them nice to your printbed.

i have re-orientated the parts.

Incredible design. Well done!

with all the files included, perhaps instructions on how to build would be nice?
do i need to print the XL versions? do i need to print the 16 or 32 versions? why would i choose one over the other?
they're labled as benchmarks - what am i looking for in those benchmarks?

tell us how to use the parts included - there's 18 parts.

Yeah, you have to print all the parts. The knob is the only part, which comes in 2 different sizes, but print both so you can choose which one fits best for your fingers.
I've already record an assembly video, but my English sounds so German that I have to record it again. It comes this weekend.
Take a look at the slicer layout pictures I attached. There you can see how I printed the parts.