THIS GUIDE IS MEANT TO BE FOR REFERENCE ONLY, AND NOT INTENDED TO SOLVE EVERY PROBLEM ONE MAY HAVE. I PERSONALLY CAN ONLY SOLVE ISSUES I HAVE EXPERIENCED OR ASSISTED OTHERS IN FIXING, BUT NOT ALL SIMILAR ISSUES WILL BE RESOLVED AS THE PREVIOUS.
OK SO MOVING FORWARD.... I DO NOT ACTIVELY MONITOR THIS USER REFERENCE GUIDE. THAT BEING SAID PLEASE POST ALL ISSUES WITH YOUR MACHINES IN THE GENERAL CHAT FOR THE CREALITY GROUP(S) see link: (
I, AS WELL AS OTHERS, WILL BE BETTER SUITED TO ASSIST ANYONE (within our own personal experience and abilities) WITH ISSUES THEY MAY HAVE. AT NO TIME DID I INTEND TO TURN THIS GUIDE INTO A TS POSTING FORUM, AND APOLOGIZE FOR ANY CONFUSION ON THAT PART.
AS MANY DO NOT USE THIS TO POST THEIR ISSUES, AND RATHER THEY USE THE PROPER FORUM, AGAIN HERE IS THE LINK,
I DO NOT SEE THIS BEING AN ISSUE FOR MANY, AND AGAIN THANKS FOR ALL THE SUPPORT.
HAPPY PRINTING MY FELLOW MAKERS!!!
UPCOMING NEW STUFF!!!
HELP GUIDES, VIDEOS, TIPS (FROM INSTALL TO PRINT) LINKS IN TEXT
-Clearing clogs from hotend and nozzle
-Fans and extruder cleaning
-Video and Guide Links to install and troubleshooting tips
-Advance bed leveling
-Bed adhesion (LINKS)
-Ton of links from Desi Quintans @ desiquintans.com
-STEPPER MOTOR SWAAAAPPPING, CONFIGURATION AND TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE!!!!!!!
USER FIXES (COMMON AND UNCOMMON)
-CURA, CREAWESOME and Simplified 3D
HOW TO PRESENT AN ISSUE AND REQUEST HELP
RANDOM PRINTING QUIRKS
-Links from Rigid.ink (A MUST READ. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)
-Splicing Filament for Multicolor or Continuous long prints
-OCTOPRINT Coming soon
So I have been all over the group lately, trying to assist here and there the best I can. I am no Ender 3 expert, or 3D printing as a whole. But I do have a great grasp on the concept of printing, from failures and successes of my own. So I created this here to give people a one stop shop for assistance. All information can also be found if you know who to look for them, but this is for those who just cannot seem to locate the info they need or are too lazy to do the legwork themselves. In the end the goal is the same, get it working and getting answers
JUST THOUGHT SOME PEOPLE COULD USE SOME WORDS OF ENCOURAGEMENT FROM ONE OF THE BIG DOGS IN THE FFF MACHINE WORLD
Words from Ed Tyson Founder of The Institute of 3D Printing & rigid.ink
“After plenty of trial and error, I had finally started figuring it out. You know, getting fairly good prints, most of the time.
But you know what I really wanted?
Call me a perfectionist but what I really wanted was PERFECT prints, ALL of the time.
Arguably a tall order in 3D printing...
Thing is, coming back to a long print (whether you always still watch the first layer, or you just click 'print' and walk away like 'normal people' with their dimensionally inadequate paper printers...) you still get that 'hope' feeling where you're seeking confirmation it looks good. Did a support nock over, has it stringed, is there any marks on the print, and are all those tolerances right for connecting parts? Insert a million "imperfections" that could be wrong with your prints.
You see, even now you're getting there with your 3D prints, you feel there's still so much you don't know - any so many aspects that are perhaps still down to chance?
But, they're not down to chance. Virtually any 3D printing issue or imperfection can be prevented with the correct machine setup and complete mastery of your Slicer settings.
Fast forward to now, and I don’t worry about these issues. I know exactly what to do to prevent these printing problems & imperfections before they become real.
And in the rare event I do get imperfections - I know exactly what & how to fix them.
Simply put, when I print - my time is spent using or designing the parts, not making guesses tweaking, re-starting prints with a slight enhancement to get a negligibly better result or scratching my head.
1.) A TRUE AIO components drawer/ CASE for the E3, with ample space for adequate cooling and even storage for the PSU (see photos). Heck you can even stack a few components on top of each other with standoffs and what not. This has since been released on 01/10/2019. Here is the link for the AIO case https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3835924
2.) Z braces that use 2020 extrusions and are mounted on the rear of the frame. Also includes a built in anti z wobble bearing slot on the top.
(Z wobble bearing is not needed. But I designed it into the design as a had to make a pass through for the z axis leadscrew anyways, and so I added an additional feature, now it is a true z brace/ stabilizer 2 in 1 support structure)
3.) "Not So Quick" quick change hotend mounting system, Optimized to allow a Direct Drive setup (Status: design and test phase)
STAY TUNED FOR MORE
*Added link to Ender3Guys CURA profile since he finally made it as a thing to be easily tracked uploaded and changed. Moving forward I will only be posting updates regarding the profile, so he can, moving forward, can get the downloads and views for his own work which he deserves. Follow the link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3895836
*Added link to my recently finished TRUE AIO ENDER3 CASE/ DRAWER
Added a few PDFs for beginner references from rigid.ink.
Adding to the introduction an inspirational message from Ed Tyson Founder of The Institute of 3D Printing & rigid.ink.
Started the “Nozzle” pdf (more to come not posting until further testing and documentation on nozzles ranging from 0.2mm - 1.0 have been tested properly and with result)
Added a calibration test to do large scale steps/mm tests. With secondary test also designed into the modeling ranging from lettering to surface quality. Actually the more I think about it there are tons of little things this model can test. Bed adhesion, lettering, flow rate, printing temps, surface speeds, etc. It all just depends on how you look at it and IF you know what to look for.
Reached out the community for addition suggestions to add to the guide. DerWaldschrat provided information regarding bed leveling. So if some of you cannot get a good bed level no matter what they do, check the following link under the "advanced bed leveling" section
Added PDF for stepper motor swapping and how to identify the wires connections for proper setup.
Check it out, it has PICTURES AND COLORS.
Also added Creawesome profiles for 0.2mm layer height, 2 versions, and one that is heavily edited (so it isn't really Creawesome... new gcode, 90% overhaul on the settings. And a second one that has about 50% of the settings changed. I did this to see how the work against each other. I haven't used the minimum edit version since I made it, so have fun with that. The other I am very proud of. It is a blend of Ender3Guy's profile and adapted to Creawesome (to a degree).
Renamed the filament frenzy.....fff profile to S3D filament frenzy.....fff to identify it as an S3D profile
Restructure and organization of the guide. Added table of contents to make it easier to locate specific information. Added more printing tips and advice regarding flowrate and bed adhesion. Added filament splice section and custom coloring filament. More bed leveling info. Basically a ton of useful and useless info, links and quirks
Finally added "Cleaning and Preventive Maintenance Checks" (CPMC) section. Included some good links I think some could use, and a few of my one tips and this I came across from others
Cleaned out/ removed some old Cura profiles and added a ton of my own profiles @ different layer heights for PLA. (This setting were tested with hatchbox PLA in pink, blue, red, yellow, black, white, and orange. Temps may seem a little high for some (I use an all metal with steel nozzle. Reorganized the order of the files.
So I had my first z binding issue. Cause, effect, and resolution with pics (and yep again I forgot to take a photo of the issues. This issue points to why I need to complete the cleaning section of this guide. Shame on me, for poor PMC of my machine.
Added update Cura Profile from Ender3Guy. Check files and re-download if you downloaded the original.
Been working on an Ender 3 AIO electronics underside drawer. Will not be posted until printed and the post process work is completed with photos. Currently printing version 3.1. Stay tuned!!!!
Still haven't adding a cleaning and PMC section. Please be patient.
So I forgot the cleaning tips. Will add soon. So I got to print some PETG this weekend and by George I think I got it. Wonderful PETG profile with great support settings for easy and effortless removal. Will post in the next day or two. Also will be adding a profile for 0.08mm layer height see the pics of the gold Anubis @ 0.08mm
OK birthday season is over I can update this more promptly now. So BIG SHOUT OUT TO @darcdrake for supplying the community with a S3D profile settings file for the Ender 3 /Pro. Since I do not have S3D this is very helpful, and will help those that do. Still working on a Slic3r PE profile, I have just not had the time to intently sit and adjust over and over for the few weeks, hopefully one coming soon from me or from another group member. Check the thing files for the S3D file.*
Adding simple cleaning steps to prevent unnecessary issues
Adding fix in "User Fixes" for extruder not feeding filament during print, but feeds filament for purge, skirts, brims, and rafts. I looked around for a fix to my issue and could not find an answer to my issue. Back story leading up to issue, what I tried and tested, and what actually fixed it. Sorry no video showing the issue, as it doesn't cross my mind unless I reach out for help. (Note to self, start documenting your own issues with videos for others to reference)
Not much has needed to be added as of the last change that I can think of. I believe this is helping a lot of folks, as I have seen a big decrease in post regarding issues. One issue not covered here is under-extrusion from moisture ridden filaments. Adding to users fixes with attributing parties listed.
Added a section for Slicer profiles, if anyone has others please post, them in the comments so they can be tested. Please state slicer used and example prints of said profile.
Added a Cura Profile settings, which was graciously provided by @Ender3Guy on this thread https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:36169#comment-2470647. The profile works fine as is, albeit, there are something I would change personally. The OP has denoted areas of change per some suggestions.
I have also made my own version of the same profile to be in line with using the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend, which has a shorter retraction (3-4 mm) distance. Adjusted support settings, was set to everywhere and was also very hard to remove, not an issue if you are not using supports. Temp can be too high for some filaments, again I use an all metal with a steel nozzle, so I need higher temps (5-10°C) either way.
There are many other changes I made for my printer specifically, so take both and try them out. I suggest using the original profile for any not sure what to set their own settings to and go from there making your own slight changes and then testing. I tested the original 10 times with different setting adjusted to find my personal favorite
Cura Profiles added to files section for ease of access. All official credit for the profiles go to @Ender3Guy
Added under extrusion issue that I, the OP for this guide, experienced.
Rearranged some things in the text. Kind of threw everything together as it was found or provided to me. Just basically made it easier to read through. So structural and literacy edits, nothing more
User @TheMagicalC added a great suggestion regarding belt tension. Which I had done myself as well, but did not think much of it as it was sensible for me to do some might not think as simply as I and TheMagicalC had done. See "user fixes" section below
Added Reddit Link for Fixes, upgrade fixes, and common issues
Do you find yourself not getting parts to fit properly, coming out too small too large. Well fret no more, here is a test that can assist with that and main other things if you know what to look for. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707798. I would add the context of the test here... buuuuutttttt... it is quite long and details every part of the test and certain design aspects of the test.
So again follow the link to the test. This is not for those who want to rush everything with a fast or small test print of whatever. Greatness comes with time and hard work, kind of like this test model. Again here is the link. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707798
Cleaning and Preventive Maintenance Checks (CPMC)
I will not get deep into every detail on how, what, when and why to clean certain things, or why it is done that way. Check the links for cleaning tips/ methods.
How to Unclog a 3D Printer Nozzle
Ultimaker has a great walkthrough of nearly the whole printer being cleaned (It is one of their in the example)
BOWDEN TUBE CLEANING
ATOMIC METHOD FOR CLOGS
So there are way too many resources for me to sit here and list them all out. So let get specific to the Ender 3 and variants.
Check for loose filament debris. Being that we use v-slots and wheels, filament can and get caught up in the extrusions and cause issues with the machines movement, mostly affecting surface quality, layers shifts etc. From time to time look between the grooves and the wheels of your machine. Move the X and Y planes back and forth/ side to side when steppers are disabled and feel for any abnormal feel to the movement. If it isn't a smooth ride from end to end, there is something amiss. Either debris or a bad wheel.
I prefer to clean my nozzle after every print. I even go as far as to wipe the nozzle with acetone while preheated, to remove any unseen filament that could cause more to stick to it. (I rarely have anything stick to the nozzle, as depicted in almost all my photo where the nozzle is present.)
Clean your friggin bed surface.
- If you use tape, replace when it first rips, the integrity is compromised and may rip more when removing a print (I have used tape and I don't recommend it due to the hassles that come along.)
- Glass beds: depending on your choice of adhesive, it can vary how to clean. IPA (90% +) is a must, it's great at getting rid of dirt and grease and giving a very clean surface.
- Those with hairspray/ glue/ abs juice etc. on glass... eehhhh depending on how often you print and apply a light dusting of the bed before or after prints.... I recommend cleaning it every 2 weeks, or when prints start to leave impression on the beds surface.
- Glass w/ PEI: I say clean every few prints with IPA, then once every 1-2 weeks you clean with acetone.
DO NOT GLASS THE ACETONE DIRECTLY ON THE PEI, IT WILL DEGRADE THE SURFACE AND RUIN IT.
Clean you fans. It could be just my printer’s location, but I see more dust on those fans than I do anywhere else. Either way clean dust build up, particles drop off and get on the print the bed other places etc. I recommend IPA and cotton swabs, q-tips, etc.
- Clean your extruder and gear. We should all know why this needs to be done. Use a small tooth brush of sorts and compressed air, clean to gear blow it out.
Like I said this is a lot more to "CPMC" of your machines, but this is a good start. Check this guide out for a fix regarding cleaning the z axis lead screw below in the user fixes section (photos on this guide as well.
Got bored and looked around on Facebook at the official Ender 3 group, and found something, IMO, that many of you could/ should take a look at this as well.**
Enjoy the loooooooong read. (See attached PDF)
**Full disclosure TL/DR
So I thought I would add a pretty good assembly video, which I followed and have had none of the common little issues. This along with some of the other links below have help me and others. So check it out if you haven't yet. https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q
Reddit link for Recommended fixes and upgrades
Another great reference regarding printer alignment which many of you find useful
Another guide for assembly from makersteve, just a different approach with a few different steps
FOR THOSE WITH Z AXIS BINDING ISSUES / makersteve
FOR THOSE WITH COMPRESSION/ PUSH FITTING ISSUES OR JUST LOOKING TO SAY TO CHANGE THEM FROM STOCK / makersteve
EXTRUDER UPGRADE AND POSSIBLE UNDER EXTRUSION FIX / makersteve
Another guide, this one is regarding the XT-60 connectors which connect from the PSU to the Control boards main PWR / makersteve
Next link is not a troubleshooting link but is still good to have the ENDER 3 Github info
REPRAP IS YOUR FRIEND, GET FAMILIAR WITH IT
TROUBLESHOOTING LINKS LISTED BELOW
Generic Troubleshooting - https://reprap.org/wiki/Troubleshooting
Print Specific Troubleshooting -
Extrusion Issues - https://reprap.org/wiki/Inconsistent_Extrusion_Troubleshooting_Guide
Calibration Fun - https://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration
Heated Bed - https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed
Better fans for part cooling - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/axnkws/replacing_your_hot_end_fans_focus_on_the_ender3/
More Calibration fun - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707798
ADVANCED BED LEVELING
I recommend this to anyone who has had or has issues with the bed getting leveled or is just plain tired for leveling at any time. I personally do not believe in ABL devices, they are Band-Aids to the actual issue. If you haven't heard of it or just have not cared to do this next step you should. *https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460 and pair it with this to complete the conversion https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722.**
After these changes were made on my E3's or my other printer formerly known as an A8 (still have just not used and halfway disassembled), I have what I like to call walk away printers. I press print and walk away, without fear of a bad first layer. Check on the printer after a few minutes, if I'm still around, and if all looks good (whether still on the first layer or not) I let it rock-out.
derWaldschrat provided this information here regarding bed leveling. So if some of you cannot get a good bed level no matter what they do, check the following link. It is well documented, short, clear and concise, and well-presented and delivered. https://docs.google.com/document/d/10vsq-cN722SfCyX4edZYfuxIOAc-E5zJBaB7jsbepQI
the second link is specifically for the Ender 3. I have done this on both my E3's, I use double thumb-wheels with nyloc nuts and no springs. I have added a link for a printed thumbwheel with a captive nut for stiffer leveling wheels that do not spin off own their own printing. Here they are https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3638778
FOR PRINTING ON BLUE TAPE TIPS
Now the following information is a little dated, albeit a few years old it is still very valid and well explained, more so than some guides with more recent information as most are just recycled or copy pasted… (I will probably catch shit for this) but like all3dp, where for articles are links and such from other sites and guides JUST LIKE THE ONE YOU ARE READING!!!!
This is the link to the whole site http://www.desiquintans.com/3dplog/ and I added the direct links to specific information that should be looked into for advice OR issue resolutions.
DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT ENDER SPECIFIC INFORMATION
BLUE TAPE: http://www.desiquintans.com/bluetape
MORE BED LEVELING: http://www.desiquintans.com/3dplog/3
MOOOORE BED LEVELING: http://www.desiquintans.com/3dplog/19
FANS AND COOLING: http://www.desiquintans.com/coolingtests & http://www.desiquintans.com/coolingtests2
FLOW RATE: http://www.desiquintans.com/flowrate
TOOLS OF THE TRADE: http://www.desiquintans.com/3dtools (NOT ALL NECESSARY, BUT YOU CAN PICK AND CHOOSE FOR YOURSELF)
"A Little Empty"
I have been fighting under extrusion for a while now but now the infill that is not touching the walls is under extruded and the walls have some gaps too. All my prints start off perfectly even the infill is fine for the first 2 cm but then it starts to go wrong. I have changed the print temperatures, infill speeds, wall speeds, cleaned the hot end, replaced the nozzle, and lowered acceleration all to no effect. See the picture as it is clear that it starts off well then deteriorates. I would be thankful for any advice.
(Photo of the issue)
Resolution by @AsikDrone
"Bud I believe there is moisture in your filaments. Hydrolysis has more than likely occurred, I have had a similar issue for a few weeks now, and I opened a new roll of filament and BAMM! I got great prints again, I then took the main roll giving me grief to the oven and left it there on 160 degree for 14 hours and now that roll prints amazing as well... dude when all else fails, check for moisture in your filaments..."
"The Pry and Tighten"
Something I'd like you to add to help others (as I experienced this problem) is that if your prints come out oblong or sort of stretched along a diagonal, it means your X-Axis belt needs tightening. If you have difficulty tightening it with your hands, you can put an Allen wrench between the roller at the end of the x-axis bar and the bar itself and lever the roller farther out with the Allen wrench, and tighten the screws with a different wrench once it reaches optimal tightness. It should twang a little bit if you pluck it.
Thanks for your work helping the Ender 3 community.
"Toe the Line"
X Axis Drive Belt Not Parallel to Extrusion
I had an issue on my Ender 3 Pro where the X Axis drive belt was not running parallel to the extrusion. After a lot of investigation in turned out that the tensioner assembly plate was slightly bent. Using a shim between the plate and the extrusion rectified this issue (see attached images from original message on this thingi and also on the original post)****
"The Straight and Narrow"
Personally I probably had one of the worst Enders ever sold. I spent months trying to figure out why the bed wouldn't level when it was already flat. The front right and rear left corners were perpetually too high Finally, DerWaldschrat (I think that's how you spell his username) pointed out that it had to be a warped Y axis extrusion. Sure enough, it leveled perfectly after replacing the extrusion.
USER: SHENKOE (wait that's me)
Ohhh Nooooo (in my Family Guy voice) I have under extrusion. Why could this be happening I just printed something and switched out filament, now it under extrudes.
Ender 3 (obviously)
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend w/ 0.4mm standard steel nozzle
Hatchbox, Esun, and CC3D for PLA / Sunlu for PLA+
Capricorn XS PTFE Tubing
stock extruder with 3rd party push fittings
So I checked the nozzle clear, did cold/ atomic pulls with white filament to be sure all was clean. tightened the nozzle, removed the nozzle, removed the heat break from the sink and checked interior walls, all clean, checked tube seems good, a little worn from use on 2 printers, but still good. Checked extruder assemble, there is tension, but there could be more.
Tested first layer every time I completed a step, every time it would under extrude. So I decided to swap the PTFE tube for one I had not used from some other 3rd party. Removed the extruder release arm, low and behold the filament had already worn a groove in the arm after only a few weeks of moderate printing. Luckily I believe in spare parts and had printed an extruder assembly called the Bantamfeeder > https://bantam.design/feeder 2 weeks ago, unsure when I would test it. Well guess I'm testing it out now.
So I swapped out the assembly and PTFE tube, viola issue resolved see newly added photos.
USER: SHENKOE (me again)
WHY YOU NO FEED FILAMENT
So I wanted to try klipper out, long story short it did not work just yet (configuration issues, will try again later on). Refreshed firmware for Marlin 1.1.9, ran test print starts, purge starts.... Then stops and no filament extruding during print. Stop test again with 4th brim, starts, purge, brim prints, model doesn't. Rinse wash repeat. Checked drivers, voltage good, not overheating. Motors good as commands from terminal work.
Fix: Refreshed Marlin from a fresh edited download. Test print start and extruder feeds during print cycle. Job well done. Issue was original Marlin install was corrupted somewhere, maybe a line was broken while I left it open. Who knows but it is all working fine. Sometimes all you need is a fresh install of Marlin to get the issue gone.
USER: SHENKOE (And again)
So I randomly had z binding issues. I had noticed a stiffer section when moving the z axis manually the other day and thought, it was related to my lead screw nut needing to be loosened and adjusted. So I did that.... BAMMM MOFO!!!!! I had issues with the z moving after I had done it, ran a few test to determine if it was my z axis or the extruder. After further inspection, I discovered dirt, dust, grime and grease built up in the nut that hold the lead screw in place along the Z.
My method involves using my dremel, with the nylon brush tip on low and held it against the lead screw and nut (where they meet), and spun the lead screw manually. Repeat the process on the underside of the nut and lead screw. Once satisfied the screw was cleared and free of debris. I greased that bad boy done with white lithium lubricant. Ran the same model I attempted in the photos and BAMMMM!!!!! Issue resolved. No more bulging or under extrusion on the z axis.
HOW TO PRESENT AN ISSUE AND REQUEST HELP
BEFORE YOU POST ANY ISSUE YOU ARE HAVING, THIS IS REQUIRED INFORAMATION THAT WILL BE NEEDED TO ASSIST PROPERLY. I USUALLY WILL NOT OTHER ADVICE UNTIL THIS INFO IS PROVIDED. UNLESS I KNOW THE ISSEU AND RESOLUTION RIGHT AWAY.
SORRY REDDIT STEALING THIS:
Here are a few questions that might be helpful
• What printer are you using?
• What material are you using?
• What speed are you printing at?
• What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer?
• When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly?
• Does anything cause the behavior to change?
• If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)
So I found this while shredding some waves. Just tips to help people address their issues in the forum and how to get answers sooner, rather than later or not at all. These are not oriented towards 3D printing, but the intent still applies to any forum that you request help on.
Before You Ask
Before asking a technical question by email, or in a newsgroup, or on a Web site chat board, do the following:
Try to find an answer by searching the Web.
Try to find an answer by reading the manual.
Try to find an answer by reading a FAQ.
Try to find an answer by inspection or experimentation.
Try to find an answer by asking a skilled friend.
When You Ask
Choose your forum carefully
Be sensitive in choosing where you ask your question. You're likely to be ignored, or written off as a loser, if you:
Post your question to a forum where it's off topic
Post a very elementary question to a forum where advanced technical questions are expected, or vice-versa
Cross-post to too many different newsgroups
Post a personal e-mail to somebody who is neither a personal acquaintance nor personally responsible for solving your problem
Use meaningful, specific subject headers
On mailing lists, newsgroups, or Web forums, the subject header is your golden opportunity to attract qualified experts' attention, in around 50 characters or fewer. Don't waste it on babble like "Please help me" (let alone "PLEASE HELP ME!!!!” messages with such subjects get discarded, by reflex). Don't try to impress us with the depth of your anguish; use the space for a super-concise problem description, instead.
One good convention for subject headers, used by many tech support organizations, is "object - deviation". The "object" part specifies what thing, or group of things, is having a problem. The "deviation" part describes observed deviation from expected behavior.
(Non-3D printing question examples)
HELP! Video doesn't work properly on my laptop!
X.org 6.8.1 misshapen mouse cursor, Fooware MV1005 vid. chipset
X.org 6.8.1 mouse cursor on Fooware MV1005 vid. chipset - is misshapen
Be precise and informative about your problem
Describe the symptoms of your problem or bug carefully and clearly.
Describe the environment in which it occurs (machine, OS, application, whatever). Provide your vendor's distribution and release level (e.g.: "Fedora Core 2", "Slackware 9.1" etc.).
Describe the research you did to try and understand the problem before you asked the question.
Describe the diagnostic steps you took to try and pin down the problem yourself, before you asked the question.
Describe any possibly relevant recent changes to your computer or software configuration.
OK this became longer than I wanted, so if this is unclear, check the link out
RANDOM PRINTING QUIRKS
RIGID.INK "HOW TO GUIDES"
TONS OF USEFUL INFORMATION TO GET YOU STARTED PRINTING WELL, AND A SLEW OF OTHER INFO RANGING FROM BEGINNER TIPS TO POST PAINTING
** RIGID.INK "The Ultimate 3D Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide 2019"
AGAIN TONS OF INFORMATION, AS EXPECTED AS IT HAS 44 ISSUES REVIEWED AND COVERED WITH POSSIBLE RESOLUTIONS
So you need a color you cannot buy, OR, it’s overpriced. Well if you can interested in softer “pastel” like hues check out the following link - http://www.desiquintans.com/sharpieprints
SPLICING FILAMENT FOR MULTICOLOR OR CONTINUOUS LONG PRINTS ( I MAY DESIGN MY OWN USING THESE AS EXAMPLES AS I HAVE A TON OF THERMISTORS, HEATERS, HEATSINKS AND PSU’s I DO NOT USE (I at times design my own hotends to test out so I have stuff)
Will update and make a video detailing the process and results once I do, if I do
QUICK AND EASY - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyMvT61mYPY
OTHER METHODS - https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together
ARTICLE https://3dprinting.com/how-to/fuse-filament-home/ VIDEO OF THE PROCESS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnTNdcKsNT0*
https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Filament-Fuser/ (FLAT IRON WITH PTFE METHOD)
Many more ways and designs, but that not really what this guide is for. IF YOU WANT MORE CHECK ON HERE https://www.yeggi.com/q/filament+joiner/
NOT MY .STL MODEL OF THE ENDER 3 JUST ADDED IT TO GET THIS POSTED (LINK TO PERSONS WHO CREATED THE .STL FILE- https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4WGWB2OmqR4-creality-ender-3-model
SUGGESTED AND RECOMMEND MODS
MODS AND WHAT NOT, SO THAT AFFECT QUALITY AND SOME THAT ARE FOR FUN