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Madau3D

CR-10 / Ender 3 Direct Drivinator

by Madau3D Apr 28, 2019
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Great work for direct drive.
Above all, the motor turned by 90 degrees, so that the weight is distributed on the axle and not loaded on one side towards the front. Assembled with all original parts. Fits perfectly. Only a cable extension is recommended. The prints are visibly finer.
Many thanks.

First of all, thanks for your design. i nearly installed it to my CR10s. As i did i noticed that my already printed fan duct wont fit under the stepper mount.
Im afraid to ask but would it be difficult to design (stretch) the mount 2-3 cm more from the stepper to the mounting plate of the cr10?

Great design fits perfectly without trimming.
can't wait to have a print this way maybe Ninjaflex.
But I did just notice that my wires of my heatblock are to short now. :(

someone else had this issue?

I like your fan setup. Did you print it and if so would you mind sending the link?

Yes I did. It's under my things... One is for normal hot ends, the other is for a volcano heater block.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594440
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594484

CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D
CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Volcano Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D

Perfect, thank you!

just printed this and mounted it on to my bone stock creality cr-10s, now I have printed tpu at speeds up to 70mm/s, hoping to attempt some higher speeds soon.

What retraction settings you guys using after installing this mod?

Replying to myself after a week of using this mod. A retraction of 1mm at 25mm/s is enough. This speeds up prints a lot!

With this mod, the distance from the extruder gear to the nozzle is reduced to 50mm. After configuring linear advance on the firmware I almost totally got rid of the Z-seam. Maybe a little ringing on the X-axis has been introduced because of the additional weight on the moving part, but nothing too noticeable.
Material cost of the mod was actually $0, I just had to cut the extruder wires and solder an additional 50cm of random stereo wires I had laying around, and the aluminium extruder needed a longer screw to properly catch the motor threads, but I had one from an old RC model.

Has anyone noticed more or reduced ringing (ghosting) with this mod?

Comments deleted.

Really clever design. Really helped me with filament flow and retraction.
Can it be fitted with bond tech/clone?

After three months, this Direct Drivinator has been excellent. Hands down.
I am also glad to contribute a tiny remix that routes the cable rearward, so that the cable are out of the way and do not need to be lengthened: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4008556

Direct Drivinator Cable Directinator. Madau3D's Direct Drivinator - remixed

Awesome Build!
Is it possible to you this with a BLTouch?
My Printer is a Ender 3

My favorite BLTouch mount can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115240.
It's the file titled, Bltouch_Mount_for_Tornado_Fang__RevA.

Fang Remix for Ender 3

First of all : GOOD JOB !

FIY it don't feets on Alfawise/Longer stock parts (mine is Alfawise U30).
Probably need the 3.5mm offset remix : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3886788

I'll not try it because i'll install a BMG extruder & BLTouch, witch needs other modifications of your design (and that's already been done here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3673135 )

direct_drive_v1.2 .35 OFFSET WINSINN DUAL GEAR FILIMENT
Ender 2/3/5 BMG direct drive mount
by Achocho

I Just began printing this part, but after reviewing the design quality in Blender, it looks awesome! One of the best design qualities I've seen. Great work. :)

I would like to get this to work with the upgrade path I have set for my Ender5 https://www.exoslide.com/products/kits/ender5-XY
If I can't get the files to modify or can't get them modified I will have to file off the wheel wells on the backside.... Thanks for your consideration It's looks great otherwise.

Hi I really like this design and I'm almost ready to install it but I'd like to know what fan ducts you are using for your extruder

CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D

First, I love the naming scheme. F&F rule.

Second, I love this bracket, but I'd really like to use a dual gear CR-10 Pro style extruder on this but it is basically twice as tall as the standard and so the bracket would need to be set back between 10-15mm to line up. I can do this work, or I can give you the fitting offset for the extruder.

I went into MeshMixer and did a plane slice to move the mounting bar forward 10mm. This worked reasonably well but is 1-2mm off (easily compensated for by the Bowden tube.) At some point I'm sure I'll redo it, but right now it's working well. Thanks for the great model.

How about a cable chain for this??

This looks like a real good simple design. I assume you can still use the stock fan cover, fans and duct?

Hi,
Installed your design and it works great. I'd like to improve the airflow around the stepper motor, that does not have cooling by being mounted on a metal part anymore. Would you share the CAD files?

I installed this over the weekend. Amazing mod!!!!!! Best one yet for the Ender 3 and ender 3 pro. I ordered an extension kit from amazon for the extruder before I installed this. Glad I did because it does need the longer cable. BONUS! I was also able to get it to fit with a hero me fan duct.

Here is how I got the drivinator and hero me to work.
*all directions are from the perspective of directly looking at the front of your printer

Having them both on the printer seemed like it just wouldn't work due to two reasons. The fan duct blocks the ability to remove or install the right-hand side bolt (for the carriage wheel) into the metal mounting bracket. Also, the drivinator has a lip for it to slip straight down on the mounting bracket, so the bolts cannot be in place when you install it.

So the way I got it on was to put the bolt into the right-hand hole and then slide the hero me top fan duct part onto the metal bracket. Then remove a small amount of material from the Drivinator mount (see image) and place the metal sleeves for the carriage wheels into the drivinator mount holes. This will make it so you can turn the drivinator 90 degrees clockwise and the one bolt will go through it. then turn it 90 degrees counterclockwise slipping the lip onto the metal mount bracket. Then put the second bolt through the holes and attach the wheels.

When installed on the Ender 3, will this mod decrease my effective Z-axis?

No, it should not. As long as you re-route the wiring/filament path in FRONT of the upright extrusions, and extend the wires as stated in the thing details, you should be good to go.

this is what I didn't realize until I installed it and started printing. LOL!!! SO this weekend I will set the wires to be routed correctly.

Don't feel bad- I designed the thing and did the same... In fairness on a cr-10 there's a lot more room, and I don't print a lot of tall parts but once I printed something a bit on the tall side I had the oh-crap realization. Thankfully the print didn't fail- and I rerouted/extended my wires ASAP. That's when I decided to make the cable supportinator https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3608268 to tidy it all up.

PTFE Tube / Cable Supportinator for CR-10 Direct Drive
by Madau3D

oh cool! I know what I am going to set to print Friday night so I can install it on Saturday.

For the CR-10 (s3) the PTFE tube should be approximately 62 mm to fit. Remember to insert it when the hot end is hot - to expell any molten filament plastic preventing the tube to be inserted fully.

I just install it on an Ender 5 (which is identical to Ender 3 in the hotend area. Please add Ender 5 on the title, some people don't know they are the same stuff actually.

If you like I have two point for improvement.
1st the gap for the metal plate is too tight, I had to use two clamps to persuade it to sit in place.
2nd I would feel more comfortable if there was 1mm bigger clearance to the wheels, although it looks ok as it is.

Hi. Great bracket and easy to install. Thanks. I notice you also have the stabilized z axis rods going from top to front of your printer. On mine there is a collision with the new extruder setup around 33 cm height. Do you have the same issue or do you have a bracket at top that leaves room for the full height (40 cm)?

Unfortunately mine crash too at about the same height. I have not gotten around to making a version of the z axis stabilizers that clear the extruder motor. I my situation, I seldom print parts that tall so it hasn't been a problem. If I need to print a part that big, I think I'd just take the rods off for that print.

Ok - I'll modify my bracket if I need to and post the mod here when I do it. Also never printed anything higher than 20 cm :-)

Saw this featured in a Filament Friday video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca2jD0zCUN4

Laying the angled face flat on the bed seems to have worked great. So far no supports needed (fingers crossed) due to great bridging on my printer.

Edit: Well, supports weren't needed, but round 2 is a raft since it popped off the build plate after the top and bottom bridges connected.

I saw that video too. Unfortunately the video was crap. He is right about the direction but terribly wrong about that "new ability" also older versions to do the same thing.
I simply rotate the piece near the desired angle and click the lay flat button. Nothing special about this magic new feature. It's all the same on Cura 4.2.1

Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing. Am I correct in thinking this design doesn't leave room for a bltouch, at least without modification?

I believe the bed probe (being ti bltouch or inductive) cannot fit on this bracket anyway: it is too high on the carriage anyway to be modified to support that. I plan to create a dedicated bracket to be mounted independently and at a lower position.

Thank you for this. Really nice.

Hi,

Would you be able to adapt the bracet to fit a bulldog extruder? I'm struggling to find a decent one and in lack of time to model one myself since i have also little experience. I have purchased an aluminum model online.

I'd love to but it's kinda hard without accurate dimensions of the extruder. If you could measure it carefully or find a 3d model of it online somewhere, it'd be very helpful.

Hi,

Did you require any addition measurements or is the information provided sufficient enough?

I give the open-scad file a good effort, but it's just taking too much time. I need a file that I can load into SolidWorks, or at least a dimensioned drawing of any critical features.

Hi,

Any chance to get any photo, how you routed all the cables? I am struggling with that from two days, all the time cables are stuck on some sharp edges... Thanks in advace.

I route them like this-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3608268

Looking at it now I realize I should have taken a better photo but I think you can get the gist.

PTFE Tube / Cable Supportinator for CR-10 Direct Drive
by Madau3D

Hi,

Any chance that You share editable version of files (Mount and Fan duct) ?

Great project.

Do you need to buy any extra hardware exept for the fans?

This "thing" is for the direct drive bracket, and it does not require any mods to your fans. Does not require any additional hardware at all, except you may need to lengthen your extruder wires to achieve your maximum build volume. The thing details for the fan ducts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594440 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594484 have their hardware requirements in the thing details.

CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D
CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Volcano Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D

Will be printing this later today.

Printed and installed it yesterday, looks very well. The cables of the extruder motor need more length.

Great! just printed and installed it, testing right now. Need a bit more longer cable to filament motor. Thanks.

Thanks for the mod, one issue I had is getting the mount over the fan shroud mounting stub. This seems needlessly difficult and I had to cut the pocket out, I might suggest that you slot the hole out to the perimeter so it can just slide in.

Did you extend any cables? I ask because I'm having issues with not being able to access my full bed or full print height with a rear-end hotend cable routing (see pic) on a different direct drive extruder with a similar vertical cable strain setup and I'm thinking about routing the hotend cables in the front to regain my print envelope. I'm hoping that I can just re-route my hotend cables to front like you did and problem solved. Note I have an Ender-3, but I suppose Creality probably used the same 'excess cable' calcss.

I suppose I could get a cr-10 extension set which should also work on an Ender-3, but that would be overkill and I would have a mess of excess cable that I'd need to figure out what to do with.

I have all stock ender-3 cables except for a 100mm extruder stepper cable which was just barely enough with a rear-exit (I was using a petsfang titan direct before with a nice rear cable exit, but design of this new extruder does not allow for that rear cable exit.)

Yeah, I had some leftover four conductor rgb-led wiring left over for a lighting job I did with my son that I used. I soldered it directly into the stock wiring with heat shrink over the solder joints. It works, cost nothing because I already had the wires on hand, but an extension cable set would have been a lot prettier. As it is, it is hidden under the braided cable sheath. And yes, definitely run the wires in front of the upright 2040 extrusion.

On a cr-10, the real ugliness is a the back of the control box. The hot end wires are in a different sheath than the extruder motor bracket wires, and go into the box through a different hole. I now had the extruder wires in the sheath with the hot end wires, but at the box, they have to jump out and go into the box through the other hole.

I will one day convert my cr-10 to an all-in-one setup and pretty up all the wiring.

hows the vibration in 60mm/s?

I found some time and printed a butt ton of thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394

11 to be precise... I varied the speeds, acceleration, and jerk settings for each test. I went as high as 800mm/s/s on acceleration, but after thinking about it, I have come to realize that the max acceleration may be limited by the firmware settings. From my search on the internets, I think the value is 500mm/s/s. I have TH3D's version of marlin so maybe I'll dig around in there and see if I can increase it enough to make the ringing really bad.

**Update 5-6-2019 I checked the machine firmware and the acceleration limit is set to 1000mm/s/s so the 75mm/s, 800mm/s/s, and 20mm/s jerk test should be legitimate.

Also worth noting, just because you have a print speed set, it does not mean you'll ever see it. At 500mm/s/s, it takes 7.2mm of a straight line to get to 60mm/s (v^2 / a = d). I realize that's not 100% accurate, because of the way 3D printer's jerk setting works, but it has to be reasonably close. So for this 20mm cube, on the straight bits it could get there, but on a side with a letter, it'll never get close to the set print speed. Keep in mind, it needs just as much distance to decelerate for the next corner. So unless you have 14+mm of a straight section, you won't get to 60mm/s @ 500mm/s/s acceleration.

To your question, test 9, 10, & 11 had the same acceleration and jerk settings, only velocity changed form 45, 60, and 75. Any difference in quality is negligible, imo.

YMMV.

Vibration a.k.a. ripple a.k.a. shadow a.k.a. ghosting test
by orcinus

I honestly can't answer that question. I've been printing a lot of petg @45mm/s lately and have not gotten around do doing any calibration cube tests. Also, as I understand it, acceleration and jerk settings have more to do with vibration and ringing/ghosting than speed does.

But I still hold to my conclusion that 560g on the x-axis is still inconsequential compared to the 2+kg on the y-axis. Even if you had a magic zero mass hot end assembly, you still need to set your speeds and accelerations to keep your y-axis from ringing. And if you slow down your machine until it's ringing/ghosting free on y-axis moves, then the x-axis will be that much better.

I would love to know where you got that dual part cooling fan.

It is my own design. I'll be posting it to Thingiverse shorty.

we wait, thank you =)

CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Volcano Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D
CR-10 / Ender 3 Dual 40mm Part Cooling Fan Ductinator
by Madau3D