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3DPRINTINGWORLD

Collapsing Broadsword (Print in Place)

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Apr 27, 2019
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Do you think you could make the handle a bit thicker? It's only 1 line thick and broke easily. The dagger printed great and I'm gonna give the katana a shot tonight.

Is there a 110mm bed version for this?

Nope, sorry. I have a dagger which is 130mm. You could scale down the z a little to get it to fit.

I have an Prusa MK3S and have had good luck printing everything I've tried to print but this. I've printed lots of print in place prints. So when I printed this the blade layers were stuck. I attempted to pull it apart and got it somewhat apart. So I decided to print the test print with a known good quality prusament silver. I also (just for the test print) changed Retract Before Wipe to 10% (as I saw you suggested below to someone else) The inner most cylinder has an issue. The other two cylinders were perfect. See attached test print pic. Also added a pic of the original but I was using a questionable filament (shiny bright chinese brand silver) and it looks like EVERY cylinder had the issue. Please advise.

I'm not sure what the problem is but I think there is something not right with your print settings as you can see those zits equally spaced around the cylinders and equally spaced between layers. I'm not that familiar with prusaslicer but I know thin wall detect has given people issues, maybe make sure that is not checked. If you have not you can try calibrating your extruder, sorry I'm not to much help.

I had a theory I thought of early this morning. I've been waiting all day to get home and test it tonight. So I've been using the new Prusa powdercoated sheet that I got in early last week and while it's wonderful, something I noticed is that unlike the smooth PEI sheet, printed items just easily lift right off once the sheet cools down. You have to bend the PEI sheet both ways and still most objects have to be pried off. So my theory was that the center ring eventually breaks loose mid print and bounces against the still stuck out cylinders. Just not enough friction there possibly. So when I got home I plopped the PEI smooth sheet on and triple wiped it with IPA and sent a test print...came out perfect!

I'm going to print the entire sword again on the smooth sheet first(my daughter wants her sword now!) After the print I'm going to adjust the Z just a 'touch' closer (currently 1.20, maybe 1.25-1.30) on the Powdercoated sheet and try the test print again to see if it resolves it on that.

This is brilliant! Printed with no problems. My boys absolutely love them. I give it 24 hours until they totally destroy them, but it will be an amazing 24 hours for them!

I attempted to print this and the katana on my CR-10 after printing out the test files. The test prints were fine; they worked perfectly. I even printed out the cup with identical settings and the cup worked great (though it may not extend as far as it should). But when I printed out the katana the bottom/largest section would not come out of the handle, and the other sections didn't extend nearly as far as they should have. It looked more like a dagger than a sword. I ended up snapping the handle on accident as I was trying to separate the bottom section from the inside of the handle. I was never able to fully extend the blade, even when the blade was outside of the handle. I wondered if maybe the shape of the blade was the problem, so I printed out the broadsword. This print didn't extend fully either, and when I tried to collapse it, the end of the handle just fell off. The bottom section of the blade was again stuck to the handle, and only after beating it repeatedly against the floor did it become separated. I am using Cura, so I have no idea what the settings should be like, but they worked perfectly with the test prints. I'm lost and don't want to waste even more filament on prints that don't work, so if anyone can give any advice, it would be much appreciated.

Have you ever calibrated your flow rate? It sounds to me that the blade segments are slightly wider then they should be. Take the test file and measure the cross section width, it should measure .85mm. If its larger decrease your flow rate until its .85 or slightly less.

I have not calibrated my flow rate, nor do I really know what it is or how to calibrate it. I'm unsure what you mean by the cross section width. If you're asking about the wall thickness, my calipers show 1.1mm thickness.

Did adjusting the flow rate fix the problem? I am having the exact same issues you are on my Ender 3. I'd love to not waste so much filament, and hope that adjustment was the fix.

I've watched three failed prints very closely and it looks like the prints aren't keeping their bond with the print plate. Once the print is about 60% through, the center piece starts to wobble which causes the layers to start going whack. Any suggestions on getting better adhesion? I tried raft, fail. Tried brim, didn't work. I could use some pointers. Thanks!

Yes, that's the thickness i'm talking about. It should measure .85mm, this is why your blade is not extending all the way. Turn your flow rate down a few percent until the thickness is closer to .85mm on the test print and you should be good.

I have a MK3 as well. Would you mind sharing your gcode for it?

I have never shared g-code before so use it at your own risk. 90g, 14 hours but its only at 50mm/s so you could probably turn it up if you are in a hurry.

Thank you. I´ll give it a try "as is" :).

ABSOLUTELY AMAZING DESIGN!! I would love it if you make the walls thicker. Unfortunately my prints broke within the day of using them. Maybe i'm printing with wrong settings, resulting in bad adhesion layers. Although i found it unusable, its still a phenomenal design and would print again in a heart beat if i could make it stronger

Mine has survived my kids so far and thats no easy task. I looked at making the segments with 3 walls instead of two but it makes the handle 1.5" in diameter which seems really big.

Yeah fair enough. Maybe I’m using bad quality filament. I’m gonna try your light saver next. At least with that one I can replace parts easier if they fail. Thanks for your designs.

Awesome design and thanks for sharing. My 2 year old has played with it all day long since I took it off the printer. The big kid (me) loves playing with it too. Have your Lightsaber printing now and cannot wait to see how it turns out.

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:-) They are a lot of fun for children and adults alike.

Really cool design. I have printed about 6 of them and all have finished and worked, except two problems for all of them. The innermost tube will always come loose and have some artifacts and the outermost tube will not break free. The problem with the tube coming loose I understand, not enough grip on the bed. I will have to do some more testing to fix that. Does anyone else have a problem with the outermost tube being stuck? As mentioned that has been the result in all of the attempts but all the other one will come loose with just slight work on them.

It is still a great sword even without the added length of one section, but I would really like to get one working 100%.

Sorry, I'm not help... I dont understand why just the outer blade would get stuck....

I had the same exact issues, so I did a little bit of investigating. On the very last pass of the outerblade the handle starts to curve in, and they two walls get too close. I'm not expert at 3d printing, but I wonder if its a layer height rounding issue, I'm using .15.

About an inch back from the tip of the sword, it has some weird artifacts. I think its at the point that the sword transitions from a solid to a hollow section. I have no idea whats causing the issue, but its like the walls aren't lining up for a layer or two. I've had the same thing happen on both builds.

These are great designs, and I'm assuming its either something I'm doing wrong with the slicer settings or a tolerance issue.

Ive Printed the BroadSword 2 times and when closing the sword the end cap keeps breaking off

Haven't had that problem. Have you tried more top and bottom layers?

Its not at the top or bottom its at the last ring on the Handle like thats a weak point or something both broke in the same spot
I printed the Pirate sword and the handle is much thicker

Does it break right underneath the ring?

There is a overhang here and in that case its probably the overhang resulting in a weak wall. Its a lot thicker there than further down the hilt. I would think better cooling or more walls would fix that.

Hello Do I Need Supports For This In With My CR 10S Printer?

Hi, brilliant model, I can't wait to try this out, just wondering if this would work better with or without a raft? Thanks!

I never use rafts but I guess it depends on your print surface.

Thanks for answering back, I usually use a raft but I will try it without it on this model and see how I get on, thanks again!

Does anyone know where the Coast and Wipe settings are in PrusaSlicer, maybe I'm going blind but I can't seem to see them.

There is only wipe under retraction, its entered as a percent.

Thanks, What sort of percent would you recommend as a starting point?

I dont use slic3r but I read increments of 10%. You can try it on the test print and increase it if you need too.

Would it be easier to print in terms of tolerances if you scale it up a bit? All my test part prints are fused together till now, now playing around with extrusion multiplier and wipe settings (there is no coast in PrusaSlicer 2.0.0)...

It would create a larger clearance between the segments. Make sure detect thin walls is off and set " Infill/perimeter overlap" to 0. I dont know from experience just from what I seen others have written.

I love the katana with blade shaped blade ( vs round not sure how else to describe it ) anyway to redo this sword with that type of blade ?

The answer is YES!! But, I'm not going to change this one as I would rather do something new. I just need a little time as I have lots of projects....

Awesome if you want any inspiration I’m planning on using it as a prop for my dnd players for the susnsword in the curse of strahd adventure. https://godsmonsterscurseofstrahd.obsidianportal.com/wiki_pages/sunsword

Cool! I like the idea of a clear blade. One issue is that I cant have anything below the guard on the hilt unless I use supports. I guess I could make it with more pieces. Thanks for the inspiration, I'll think about it.

if i increase the X and Y sizes by like 10 or 20 percent, that would increase the spacing between pieces and make the tolerances more forgiving right?

I don't see why not!

This is a very good print. Used it without any fixing and came out very good the first try.

Awesome! I'm glad its working out for other people.

Great job with this model. I printed it last night for my son, and it works flawlessly right away.

Sweet! My kids want to sword fight all the time now. he he

Ok, that is clearly the Sword of Omens. Where is the Eye of Thundara?

Oh, I see someone is schooled in their Thundercat folklore. Its actually just a coincidence, plus the guard on that sword goes the other direction.

MAKE A PRINT IN PLACE SWORD OF OMENS

:P

I Like it either way its pretty awesome!!

i love these things and I want to see more

I'm working on a couple more! Coming soon...

Cool idea gonna give it a try- thanks for sharing.

Has anyone slicing with Cura had success? Any tips to the slicer settings used to reduce zits? I messed with coast and wipe, got the test print working fine, the final product only extended halfway :(

Do the pieces not fuse together but just not extend very far?

Yea; they took some wiggling to get out the first time, but after that they only extended halfway. I'm using Cura with a CraftBot+ and I'll tweak it; I may try to print the lightsaber since I can separate out the body from the blade.

I read somewhere that cura has a option called outline overlap, or some name similar. I believe a negative number would reduce the thickness of the blades. I dont use Cura so I haven't tried it myself.

thanks for wasting 100 g of my filament! broke in half the second i extended it.

stfu dude, guy gave an awesome design for free. f' off and go calibrate your printer

if your complaining about a creator wasting 2$ worth of filament perhaps design one yourself instead

Really? wow you must be a millennial and expect all things to be easy and your way and if they aren't its someone else's fault?

wow i didnt expect to read that but youre so right

Brilliant model! This would be badass with other handles, ie longclaw for example. and/or more angular/flatter blades vs the standard lightaber tubes :)

Yep, I'm working on a angular shaped blade right now! It should be out shortly, if it works...

i know you can do it. ill wait for it^^

Just finished a Katana with a angular blade. I had to round the edges though otherwise the blade was to small compared to the size of the hilt. I'm pretty happy with it though, I'll post it shortly.

What is the layer height, and what which wipe setting do I put 3 in, because my slicer has infill wipe and outer wall(shell) wipe? This sword is epic and I just want to get it right.

I printed it at .2 layer heights but the angle is very slight so it should not make much of a difference. I cant really tell you what setting to use as I am not familiar with your slicer or your printer. If you are concerned I would try the test file first. I can say that this would be effected by the outer wall wipe.

Thank you, I did the test print and it turned out great, I was wondering if it needed supports, I plan to print it tomorrow without supports. So feel free to let me know otherwise.

Just say no to supports!

Hello,

Firstly your swords are awesome thanks for the design!

I have an odd one! I've tried to print your sword twice now using different filament and both of them stopped at the exact same point after printing for 7hours. The 3d printer is telling me it was successful but the preview file is telling me it should be a 10 hour print.

I checked it wasn't my printer hitting its height restriction by printing a sample cuboid and that come out okay.

I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue or if you perhaps you know what could be going wrong?

The printer is a makerbot replicator 2x, I'm using the Makerbot Desktop software for sending it to the printer.

I would be grateful for any help if you have any? I thought about using Cura to slice the file and try again but thought id post here first as to not waste filament.

On a side note I now have 2 daggers that are fully functional with the ability to switch out the blades. I will be printing end caps for them to stop the blades falling out!

That is really strange? I have not used markerbot desktop, Is there a setting where you set a stop printing height? Could you check the gcode and see if the number of layers matches.

2 days printing for 2 attempts with different settings and in both of them the blade's sections are stuck :(
Tips for printing this anyone?

Oh man that sucks... :( Did you see the test print that I added? You can test on this one instead, its only a half hour print and should tell you if its going to work. Are you using coast and wipe? It only works well for me if I have these setting on and tuned.

Yes, I'm using both, and I set them quite extreme the second print (it printed with gaps on the walls, but I didn't care). I'll try the test print next time, thanks!

If its not that then it could be that your extruding too wide. Have you calibrated your extruder? You could try turning your extruder multiplier down a couple percent.

I did calibrate it, but long ago to be honest... I've set the extrusion width to 0.4 the second time (instead of the default 0.48) and it was better, I could partially free up one ring.
I also tried to adjust the "horizontal size compensation" setting, but parts were missing in the sliced model.

Hmmm. Sound like you are on top of it. I dont know what slicer you are using but do you have thin walls on perimeters only?

I use Simplify3D, I tried with "allow single extrusion fill" option, but didn't make a difference. I also check the calibration extruding 10cm and it nailed it, so I did some test and I saw that the actual line with on my nozzle is close to 0.8 (see pic).
I have the Micro Swiss all metal 0.4mm, but it looks more like 0.8
I'll see what I can do, thanks for the tips and the model!

Dude! That is not even close!! Are you sure that's a .4mm nozzle? I would try a 20mm cube in vase mode with no top layers and measure the extrusion width.

It turns out that it's something in my settings, I've printed the first cm of the template model and the rings are moving...thank god! I'll try the full sword again tomorrow :D

Glad you figured it out, I hope it works out for you now!

First of all, awesome print, made one and it's a really fun design.

My question is, after collapsing it repeatedly for a bit now, it almost sounds like there's rattling inside the sword, so kinda wondering if it's the collapsing motion itself that's weakening the plastic and causing bits to break off, or what might be doing that? Guess it'll be easier to tell once the lightsaber design is out since I can just open the tube and check.

I wouldn't think that broke because the blade would fall off it that happened. I'll have the lightsaber posted tonight!

You asked what we think?
We think it's AWESOME! We were so blown away by your ALL printed I3 Clone when we met you that we never got to see the sword! Another Thing of the week!
GREAT stuff! Thank you!

Hey thanks! I've been enjoying the show.

Could you make a folding scythe type weapon?

Yes! I must bring balance to the force.

AWESOME !!!!! Printing right NOW !!!! THANKS !!!!! That was one of the coolest things out of MRFF2019 !!!

Good luck! Glad you like it. Let me know if you run into any issues.

Really cool. Thanks for sharing.
Waiting for the lightsaber version :)

I'm working on it! To little time each day...

Thank you for sharing your works!!! I am just another in the list of lightsaber maniacs waiting for it :D I'd like to bet with another lightsaber idea: what about a dual saber like the Darth Maul's one?

Yes, we need balance between light and dark!

Understand completely. Wonder if it could be designed such that the separate piece be printed in "vase" mode? That will eliminate the start-stop on each layer. Perhaps using 0.5mm or 0.6mm line thickness.

That's a good idea because its hard to hide the layer seams with the transparent green filament I'm using plus it should be stronger! I would just be worried that it would break too easily if the walls were any thinner so I just ordered a .8mm nozzle from Filastruder. They were cheaper then Amazon. I'll give it a try and let you know how it turns out.

And then... make the screw-on cap a bit longer to fit a couple of AA batteries, switch and LED. That way the collapsible blade will light up when extended. Lots of fun options. :)

I thought of that but my really bight flash light didn't light up the semi-transparent green blade very much. Maybe a clear blade with a colored led would work better.