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Hangtight

Creality Direct Drive for Stock/Microswiss Hotend and Titan Extruder

by Hangtight Apr 28, 2019
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Oh, for those using the offsets in the details page, Marlin 1.1.9 only accepts integer values. I rounded. Half a mm won't kill the process.

Is there a defined length for the short bowden piece or is it just cut-to-fit?

The length will vary depending on the fittings used, so it's really a case of cutting it to fit. Ideally you just want it long enough that it is pushed down into the hotend and sealed up against the back of the nozzle.

Ok. So: Trim. Test fit. Trim. etc til it's snug on both ends. I'll be using whatever comes w/ the kit and the microswiss has the flush retainer; assuming it hasn't worn out. My bowden is working out about 1mm after retractions.

I'd suggest bolting the extruder and hotend to the mount without the tube and measure the distance between them. Unbolt and put an arbitrary over length piece of tube in and remeasure. remove the difference , less a fraction and you should be good. If you're using a Microswiss it isn't critical as the tube is just a guide in that case so cut it a fraction under length.

Being just a guide, I shouldn't need any clips or zipties etc on the connectors, right? There shouldn't be any axial force on the tube from the filament to speak of unlike the bowden.

Absolutely. There are no compression forces transferred through the guide at all.

I highly recommend using an genuine E3D Titan extruder since the clones' dimension aren't necessarily identical to E3D's, and you might end up with alignment problems. Normally, you adjust backlash by loosening the Titan's screws and rotating the extruder. However, here the Titan registers against the mount and cannot be rotated, nor would you want to because it would throw off the alignment to the hotend. Therefore, if you need to adjust backlash, you need to drill out the holes in the mount so you can rotate the stepper instead. Note, a pancake stepper is required to clear the uprights.

If you use a new style Micro Swiss hotend with the flush PTFE fitting, you don't need a flush mount PTFE fitting on the Titan.

Personally, I found the optimal settings to be 60mm/s speed, 800mm/s2 acceleration, Junction Deviation J0.04, and the external parameter at 30% speed. These settings gave me sharp corners and minimal ghosting. Your results might vary.

With the weight of the stepper motor directly above the X gantry the carriage to well balanced and isn't trying to twist forward off the gantry, which is my big issue with other direct drive conversions which put the stepper to the side or, even worse, out in front of the carriage.

The fan duct and BLTouch mounting is smart, sturdy, and very easy to adjust.

While the printed the shroud and fan duct from PETG, I printed the BLTouch mount and extruder mount from PLA for increased rigidity.

All in all, this is a great design and, in my opinion, the best direct drive conversion for the Ender 3.

So, I've been using this for a while and have some feedback:

1) Backlash. So, your titan mount holes re very tightly toleranced. The side effect is that I am unable to intentionally skew the motor and titan to take out all backlash and make the gears 100% solidly mesh. I am able to do this with other titan mounts, except yours because your holes are quite tight and possibly the surrounding bracket walls a bit close. Even when reaming out the mount holes a bit, I was not able to get a sold install with no backlash. This process is described on E3d's site here: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/1.75mm+Bowden+Titan+Assembly/20?lang=en#s208

I've attached a picture of an example (petsfang titan direct). You can see there is a lot of adjustment available, and this is super easy to snug up and have a good gear mesh.

2) Cable routing over the top consumes more length than other design - Even with an extended stepper motor cable and lengths that worked for other direct drive systems (ie, petsfang titan direct), I am having difficulty using my full build height. I'm looking into other cable routing such as a rear control box, or possibly extending all the cables to account for htis.

Moving the extruder relative to the stepper to eliminate backlash should be a function that is accommodated by clearance between the through bolts and the body of the extruder itself, not between the stepper and the mount. I'm using the same spacing and hole sizes on both a Titan Aero and a Titan/ V6 combination with zero issues, but I'll look into it.

Just Following up - Bad_Mechanic I think identified the problem better!

"However, here the Titan registers against the mount and cannot be rotated, nor would you want to because it would throw off the alignment to the hotend. Therefore, if you need to adjust backlash, you need to drill out the holes in the mount so you can rotate the stepper instead."

I agree with Bad_Mechanic that there is not room to rotate the titan. This also possibly explains why the same spacing/hole size that works fine in your other designs, has different effects here, assuming that other designs don't restrict placement of the titan as much.

FWIW This is with a trianglelabs titan.

I guess that's the slight click I hear during retractions? Other than that, the mount is working well for me so far.

Can it be maked for a Bondtech BMG extruder also please ?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3466809

There a BMG mount in the files.

Creality Direct Drive: Stock Extruder & Hotend

Thx ;) will mount also work on this new baseplate ?

No, it works with the mount in the design I linked.

Hi Hangtight, thank you for the design, I've installed it and its looking very sharp and seems to work great for the first test prints I've done. I've posted a make. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594559/makes

If I had to search my brain for thoughts for improvement is that the cable management/wirestrain going up at the top seems a bit awkward for my use case. (Or maybe it was intended for a different cable routing?)

See where the extruder is near the top of the travel, and to the right,

My suggestion is to have an option for a right side rear-exit wirestrain that goes under the motor and above the wheels, where I've marked out a rough area. For example, the PetsFang Titan Direct has a right side and back exit wirestrain that worked very nicely for my setup.

Creality Direct Drive for Stock/Microswiss Hotend and Titan Extruder

Do the e steps need to change?

Yes. For the Titan 415 is a good starting point.

Hi! Thanks for this design. How pancakey (slim) does the pancake stepper need to be? Body Depth/Length is the spec it is called I think. Going to order a pancake but make sure I order one small enough to not hit any of the rails.

A Nema 17 22mm works well with the Titan and clears everything.