WORK IN PROGRESS (not likely to continue anytime soon)
This is a model of Adam Taurus' 'Wilt and Blush' katana from the show RWBY made by Rooster Teeth. I planned on completely printing it but I'm not content with the design. It might be useful for somebody though, so I might as well upload it. I designed this in Autodesk Inventor (kind of like the paid version of Fusion 360), which is why everything is so linear (and a pain to edit). I'm horrible at blender so I stuck with what I knew, even though Inventor isn't the ideal program for such a model...
Major design flaw: out of fear that the blade would be too flimsy, I made it a whopping 15mm (0.6 inch) thick. It is strong, but also heavy. Newer (unfinished and thus unpublished) versions have a thinner 7mm (1/4 inch) blade). In pratice, the sword looks quite bulky. In addition, the proportions of the hilt seem somewhat off.
Wilt.ipt: A full model of the katana
Blush.ipt: a full model of the hilt
Wilt_BladeSeg.stl: a 180mm long segment of the katana blade.
Wilt_Tip.stl the tip part of the katana
Wilt_Hilt.stl: the hilt of the katana
Wilt_Dowel.stl: connector piece for assembling the sword
PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS (katana only)
I chopped up the katana in pieces for printing. I did do the same for the sheath, but not for the entire model (If you really want I can post what I already did, leave a comment).
The katana can be made by printing 3 bladesegments, 1 blade tip and 1 hilt. You'll also need 4 dowels to connect everything. I suggest printing the bladesegments and tip on their back (not standing up), so that the layers are in-line with the blade. For aesthetics it's also better to print without brim since it leaves ugly edges, but if you have adhesion problems a brim won't ruin your model. Print everything with supports enabled, this is only for the slots for the dowels (my future design should be able to be printed without supports entirely). They're a pain to remove but not impossible. Printing the dowels should be easy enough. Again, no brim, this time because is makes it hard to insert them into the slots.
Unlike the blade, the hilt should be printed upright, with the guard on the bed (as if your katana had pierced the bed). Supports should be enabled, again, simply for the dowel slot. The pommel has a 45 degree chamfer, which should prevent the need for supports in that area.
You'll need some kind of glue to stick everything together. I used two component glue, but superglue should work too. Be sure to sand the adhering surfaces of the segments (not the hilt, it'll look ugly), as well as the dowels on all faces. This way the glue will stick better. Before using glue, check if the dowels slide easily into the segments! If they don't (and if sanding doesn't help), print them again at a slightly smaller scale (e.g. 99%) and try again. Next simply take two segments, apply glue to one end of the segments and the entirety of the dowel (you might make a bit of a mess. I did, in any case). Insert the dowel into one blade segment, and then add a second segment to the part of the dowel that's sticking out. I suggest glueing one piece at a time. Apply some force (maybe put it under light tension if you can) and leave it to dry.
It's possible that the segmenting will be visible. If you're skilled with filler + spraypaint you could probably fix this. As I mentioned before, the blade is quite heavy, so be careful swinging it around as it may break (or you might hurt somebody, the tip is quite sharp).