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3DPRINTINGWORLD

Collapsing Lightsaber (Removable Blade)

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD May 4, 2019
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Hi, why vase mode sections are full in slicer? am i doing something wrong?

Nope, they are designed to be printed in vase mode. if you choose it they will be one shell thick, just change your extrusion width to .85mm.

hi, I printed the lightsaber, but I had some problems and I need help, how can I fix the vertical joint and the piece movement during printing?
i'm printing with 0.4 mm nozzle, setting extrusion width to 0.85 mm it iisn't too large?

Sorry I dont understand the question. .85mm extrusion width if you are printing the blade in vase mode. Otherwise, the hilt and cap with .4-.43mm width.

ho can i fix this kind of problem?

I would check your retraction settings.

This might be kind of random, but I saw on the video that you use Inventor. I have a really cool idea for a remix I want to try out, and was wondering if you could share the ipt files for the blade.

There is already a stp file in the files section.

Oh, Okay thanks. Didn't see that.

Its the blade and a shell of the hilt, just draw the new hilt around it.

Help! I printed this for my 8 year old and he loved it until his 5 year old sister kicked the blade and broke it. I've been printing replacement parts in vase mode and they work great except for Blade 2, which is too narrow at the wide end and simply falls through the narrow end of blade 3. Thanks for the great model!

You can try increasing your line width or your extrusion multiplier.

Can you tell me how you modeled the screw threads? I ask because they print well and are loose enough tolerance to work well for this application. I use Fusion360, and most of the thread models built into it have overhang that keeps them from printing well inside holes. I am working on a multi-part lightsaber, and I could really use your screw threads.

I draw a trapezoidal thread then use the coil command to revolve it. Keep a eye on my channel, if I can find some time...

I successfully printed the blade vase sections, but a few of them kept sliding completely through the larger ones. Didn't want to spend the time tweaking the slicer and reprinting, so I just took a small torch and softened the wide end of each piece and stretched them out a touch, and now they work perfectly.

I also put a small piece of foam into the bottom of the cap, to quiet and dampen the impact of retracting the blade. Since I had to shorten the blade a bit to fit my printer, I have enough room in the hilt to do this.

Has anyone put an electronics package in this to light the blade and make sounds when the blade is swung around?

I think Pedro and Noe with Adafruit are working on it!

Have tried different combinations of coast and wipe and cannot get rid of seam. The test sections are perfectly separated except at the seam where it is like a scar that is fusing the sections. I have a HEVO with a V6 hotend. Tried changing temps also. Hopefully someone can give me some tips how to get rid of the thicker seam area.

After quite a few test prints I believe I have found good setting for my HEVO to print the blade. Printing it now. Once that is successfully printed and works I can get on with the rest of the project. :-D

Sorry I didn't have any good advice. Glad you got it working!

It took some work after printing to them separated but they are working now after the first print attempt of the full blade. The test print helped. Did many, many of those first. Thanks.

can you scale the z axis on the blade

Yes, that should work fine! Clearances will remain the same.

I simply cannot get rid of the blob / zit issue the author describes. I'm using a Prusa i3 MK3S - silver PLA.
I've tried "Retract amount before wipe" at 10%, 20%, and 40%and I've set "Infill/perimeters overlap" to 0%.
It seems to have something to do with retraction, but I can't figure out what. Anyone have any suggestions?

Hey I printed it and it is amazing, I just wanted to say I had to scale down the hilt to 99% in the X and Y dimensions because the blade would fall out! But other than that, great great design!!

That is strange, did you use a different type of filament for the blade then the hilt?

Nope, same brand of PLA, just different colors. Don’t worry though, it probably has to do with my calibration not being spot on. And again, great model!

The blade section is just a little too tall in Z for my printer, but the hilt fits just fine. If I scale down just the Z of the blade, do I also have to scale down the hilt, or can I leave it normal?

I would scale them equally.

I'm experiencing the same. Would it possibly be okay to cut that extra portion off? I have a 200 x 200 bed and there's, maybe 1-3 mm, that is over the top. This is for the bottom of the blade that is hidden in the hilt, not the point of the blade. If I were to open it in some software and cut that piece off, do you think it would cause any issues? I'd prefer not to scale down if I don't have to.

You don't have to modify the stl, just lower the model in your slicer so that it is below the bed as far as you need.

The bottom of the diagonal knob/button thing prints an overhang into essentially mid-air. Are we really meant to use support all the way up to that, or just deal with it looking bad?

If you mean the part in red, you are probably printing it wrong. You must print it with the part in blue touching the bed.

Not sure what you are talking about, there is no overhang? Except for some really small ones.

Well after trying 12 times to print in vase mode and not being able to get a decent fit between the blades I decided to print them normally BUT bring the VASE blades in separately and print side by side as a group.. works brilliantly and the fit and operation is excellent. love this design..

Strange that would work but not vase mode.

I think it was the fact use a 0.4mm nozzle and cannot get enough wall thickness for the tapers to work..printing them normally and getting 2 walls works..
. If you can advise or guide me in a other direction (settings) ? I think your models are fabulous and I enjoy printing them, this one however has stumped me..Thank you

You changed your line width to .85mm when printing in vase mode, right?

Yes I did. 0.85mm. vernier measured to that size. when you flick the lightsaber even slowly the slide apart..

I had the same problem. I ended up just using a torch to soften the wide end, then stretched it a little on something (pliers, screwdriver handle, etc.). Then, while it was still warm and soft, I slid each section into the next larger one and pulled it down to what seemed the right length and let it cool in that position.

Comments deleted.

Hi, I'm trying to print the vase mode files but as the print gets taller, the quality gets worse, any idea of what might be the problem?

It must be moving around as the bed moves. Are you printing really fast?

print test has to be loose? or when deploying it should it be held somewhere? I'm left loose, thanks

No, I think I'm going to make a video shortly to clear this up. The test print is to verify that the pieces don't stick together and that they measure .85mm wide. They wont catch or anything. If they are loose, and are the right thickness you should be good to print the real thing!

Are the pieces of the blade suppose to have a bottom? The pieces only go way and they don't lock together on the taper. I am missing something in the way the pieces are printing. I am printing them as all separate pieces. Since the pieces have bottoms they can only go together one way.

Did you set your line width to .85mm?

I did everything i could and i just cant get my vase mode blades to catch on each other! what am i doing wrong?

I printed piece 1,2,3 in vase mode. I must be missing something. The three pieces all fit together . In fact they are so loose they fly right out . What am I doing wrong?

Great design, but I am having the same issue. I printed the vase mode blades (1 and 2 so far) with 0.4mm nozzle and 0.85 line width. I measured the line width and it is exactly 0.85mm - so everything is fine here... The 2 sections are too loose and fly right out as well. Do you have any hints to have these sections tighter?

I don't see how you could be having this issue if your thickness measures correctly.... Why not just make your line width wider until they catch?

Okay, I am tempted to print this but I want to ask if anyone has made one at 1:1 scale of the actual prop size? Is that possible? It looks smaller than a replica but it doesn't look like it could be scaled up to be closer to 1:1. Reminds me of the ones from childhood from Kenner but those things were huge. Last question- is there a transparent filament that has withstood a stress test? I'm thinking some transparent PETG is probably the best solution.

This is a huge hit among my friends and family. I tried to scale the original model down to 76% for the kids, but the hilt was weak in several spots and broke easily. The newer thicker hilt is a lot stronger and is working well so far. Also, I always print the blades in vase mode and they won't scale down well if you keep the width fixed at 0.85mm. At 76% scale for the hilt, I had to scale the largest blade at 74%, and the next at 72%, etc. It doesn't extend as evenly as the full sized model, but its the closest I could get. If anyone has a better approach on scaling down this model, please share.

How do you set up the blade pieces in PrusaSlicer? when I loaded this in PrusaSlicer it shows up looking solid, but when I set it in Vase mode it just showed up as an outer shell.

Sounds like you don't have the right file, do you have "lightsaber-blade.stl'?

Found another potential "weak spot." 5 year old dropped it, and it split on one of the thin walled sections. XD

I uploaded another hilt last week and increased the thickness of these sections.It's in the file section and has "thick" on the end of the name.

Im having some issues with the hilt, there is a visible under-extruded seam. I am printing with an 0.8mm nozzle, 0.8 line width, 0.4 layer height, coasting off. Printing at 225C, when I first spotted this issue with the seam I upped the temp to 235C and it continued. I have just printed many blades, which have all come out very nice, so Im sure my extruder is fine, etc. Any tips?

I would say coast but you have that off... Maybe just look through your retraction settings to make sure something is not set wrong.

When I go to slice the blade, it has this piece that starts trying to print in thin air. Is there a setting I'm missing somewhere?

Turn on some infill. I put a little material in the end of the last blade segment to give it a little bit more weight to help it extend easier. To much weight and it extends too well and gets stuck.

If I was going to try and make my own hilt in Fusion 360, what's the easiest way to do that? Like if I copy the height and saber opening? What about the screw cap on the bottom? Is there a template we can use?

I thought I added it to this one but it was only on the print in place version so I added it to this one as well. There is a template for the blades so all you have to do is design your lightsaber around it. I have included it as a stp file to make it easily modified in Fusion.

Thanks! Is there a template for the hilt?

The template is both the blade and innermost part of the hilt. All you have to do is design your hilt around it.

Hmmm. I opened the stp file in Fusion 360....and all I see are the blade parts. 6 bodies total. I'm a total newb, but I was hoping to take the hilt and make some mods to it so I can make different ones for the kids. I'm still learning...so creating the hilt from scratch....yeah, I"m just not there yet. :)

Hy good work!!!!!

What is the best extrusion width for a 0.4 Nozzle?
0,4 or more
I print the first blade in Auto (0.48} but it is a
little to mutch

The walls are .85mm thick so around .42mm.

I am having a heck of a time trying to get the blade to print and not be fused at the point where each layer starts. I decided to try to print the individual blade files, but they don't fit correctly. The tip of the blade barely stops when going through the second piece. I printed in vase mode...any thoughts on what I can do differently? Has anyone tried printing them this way?

I have, that's how I printed the blade in the last picture. I would measure the thickness, is it less then .85mm? If so, and that's what you set for your extrusion width then you would be under extruding. Adjust your extrusion multiplier/flow rate until you achieve the proper thickness.

thanks for your good work !!

Great blade, I love it and printed 3... I also realized a cap to prevent the exit of the blade to make transportation more comfortable.
If interested https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3658717

Lightsaber Stopper

Alright, there are some crucial design flaws in your model. It's aesthetically pleasing, but the walls of the handle need to be thicker in the weakest points. Specifically, the two thin parts and the ribbed parts of the handle are so weak that they can be snapped at any of those points with almost no effort (I've been printing for a long time and I am well versed in creating strong parts, to be clear). Second, the bottom of the threaded cap isn't strong enough to sustain the blows from the blade being pushed back down onto it. I know this because mine broke. Sometimes, the blade is hard to push back into the handle because of how well they stick together after you deploy it, so it requires some good hits to get back into the handle. Great model otherwise, but these crucial strength issues make it hard for me to say I want to print it again. Could you consider revising and addressing these issues?

Edit: I'm gonna try to print the cap with more bottom layers (10, to be exact). That should fix the cap issue. I didn't consider this at first because i didn't realize how thick the bottom of the cap was. The other issues still stand though.

I have printed 1 Print-in-place version, 1 Stand alone hilt, and 5 blades. All using Ender3, eSun PLA+ @210 deg., 0.1 Fine Layer height, wall width 0.4 (my nozzle size) with 2 walls (resulting in 0.8 thickness). Yes, it takes FOREVER to print. After reading this thread about fragility, I decided to test my saber. Using my hilt and a blade, I dropped it on a cement basement floor, held at shoulder height (I'm 6' tall), several times with both the blade extended and retracted. No drops resulted in it breaking in any way. Not even a chip. I also realize kids will be far more hurtful to these, so I decided to start whacking things with it, as if I were a kid playing with a sword. I had to whack pretty hard against the edge of a door jam to damage the blade. It dented in but did not split.So, either I am lucky or you are not, but I find this design to be more than adequate.

A friend at work dropped one of these light sabers on the floor in the break room, it snapped in 2 spots. At the 2 thin cylindrical sections you mentioned.
I have snapped the blades too, but printing with over extrusion, larger nozzle, and bigger layer height makes the blades pretty strong.
But I do tell the friends I give these to, they are not for actual sword fighting! lol

I haven't snapped the blades. Those are actually quite strong with a .4mm nozzle (2 shells) at .3mm layer height (I wouldn't do any other layer height purely because I'm impatient). I snapped the bottom of the threaded cap by pushing the blades back into the handle. I solved this issue by adding more bottom layers and reprinting. It's held up for now.

Have you tried a 0.6mm nozzle yet?
Man I tried it on my Anet E12 and left the 0.4mm nozzle on the Anet E10.
But after about a week, I put a 0.6mm nozzle in the Anet E10 as well.
Soo much faster, and if you do try this, make sure to watch CHEP's video on Magic Numbers for Layer Heights and Stepper Motors.
Ill post a link here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIkT8asT90A
Magic numbers match the natural steps of the stepper motor, so they are not trying to stay inbetween steps. Better prints, maybe...
Anyway, take a look at the video and tell us what you think. :)

eh, that guy kinda lost a lot of credibility for me when he released a video called "the magic ender 3 profile!!!" that produced nice prints because it was at 0.12mm layer heights lol. like yeah no shit the prints are gonna be nice at the lower limit of the nozzle diameter. and idk if there's anything at all to the whole magic numbers thing, but i vary layer heights by 10% anyway, so they happen to match up. i do have a 0.6mm nozzle and i'd be interested in trying it. i'll let you know if i do.

Right on, I use 0.6 mm nozzle and 0.32 mm layer height.
If you do try it, thats probably a good place to start :)

So is it just me or are the individual blades 205mm tall? As the hilt + cap is also 205mm tall, I don't see how these blades would fit flush once printed in vase mode.

yes, they do fit perfectly flush. :)

I corrected the description, its 209mm total.

So is the print in place lightsaber shorter than this individually printed one?

No, they are both the same.

In that case something is not adding up, at least in my slicer. reference the picture attached, blade #1 is 205 mm tall and the print in place light saber is also 205 mm tall. this cannot be the case as the blade need to sit flush in the hilt.

One thing might be is that you show the "print in place" version in your picture which is slightly different then the other version. The blade is not exactly flush, there is roughly 1mm of clearance.

I used 20%, works good. Strong but still not too heavy.

I've been having the unusual problem of strength problems in the Hilt (instead of the blade, which once printed individually worked great). My kids are being as gentle as kids can be to not slam the blade around, but when they wield the hilt and grip it tightly, it fails in the two thin walled sections near the top. I've tried two ways with thick and thin layer height in that area to modulate adhesion, but really just needs thickness.

Any way the model could have an extra outer wall thickness added to that area? It shouldn't affect the look of it, but would keep it from torquing apart.

Mine did not break there but on the blade, but after I send hours sanding and painting it I realized that this was a weak point too. I will put this on my list to make a heavy hilt and blade version. The looks will be compromised but it wont break as easy.

I printed three for my kids. The blades are doing great but two of the three broke in the same place which is in the thin neck part. It won't be as true to the original design but I think the neck needs to be made thicker. Mine ends up printing with just two walls there which obviously doesn't give much strength.

I will add another version this weekend and widen the thin section by a couple layer for those who have had issues with it breaking there.

could be that your layers aren't adhering to each other as well as they should. if they melt stickier and hotter, they'll create a stronger bond. also, thicker layers means less layers and therefore less possible points of failure. try using a higher temperature (i'd suggest printing a temp tower first to determine the upper limit of that filament). good luck :)

Doent really matter as the weak part is going to be the thin walls that are only two perimeters think. I used 10 or 15%, cant remember for sure.

Hey all - I was struggling over and over and found the safest settings to print the full blade in one go. I have zero issues between each ring and they print perfectly. there is only a slight vertical wisp on each inner line but that will go away with a lower temp.

In the mean time please find the profile for Cura I used here. The profile is a modified version from the new Creawesome mod profiles.

PLA - Purple Haze
185
40
retraction wipe coasting all ON
9hour + print but quality

**remember not all filaments are the same. adjust print temps and temperatures as needed

So I am using 4.1, I saw your post with the pictures of your settings and re-created it. I got the fused bottom layer like aaronkmorgan said. I will check how close it is to the bed. Also though, you mentioned in your reply a .28 layer height, but the pictures of your settings show .2. Should it be .28?

Yes .28. the reason why the first layer is bonding is because you're way too close to the bed. It must be a line and not squashed flat.

I tried your profile as I'm already using the Creawsome mod on my ender 3 pro but the bottom of the blade test print were fuzed together and the overall print quality was not great. I guess I'll try them separately in vase mode.

This is because your nozzle is too close make sure that the material is being just barely squished almost dragged across the surface and it that it is .28 layer height...

If you have not calibrated your extruder and flow rate it will also not work

My profile is before creawesome it's only compatible with the 4.0

@mbalwin, Does this profile work with Cura 4.0 or Cura 4.0 Creawsome Mod as I keep getting an error saying

'Failed to import profile from C:/Users/daleb/Documents/LighbladetSaber02.curaprofile: Could not find a quality type standard for the current configuration.'

I hope you can help getting this working. Thanks

with creawsome but here is also my 4.1 without creawesome

I’m using 4.0 with creawesome and imported your profile. It imported just fine but the print was fused together

Thank you for this! I imported the cura profile no problem. A few days ago I tried to print this a few times and they all failed. I'm hoping it will work this time.

Thank you 3DPrintingWorld for the awesome lightsaber file.

Thank you mbaldwin for the cura profile.

Hi, my computer had trouble opening your cura profile for some reason. So I was wondering if you could just upload a picture of your settings, or just show me where wipe is on cura. I get it if you can't though. :)

you tried importing it from Cura rught/? not just opening the file...

The search bar at the top of the settings in Cura works extremely well. enter the word, wipe. attached are the photos

Yes, I tried importing it into cura, but it just said invalid file. Thanks for the settings though, hopefully my 5th(?) attempt will work.

Thanks for sharing!

I made a connector to make this a "Darth Maul" style Light Saber. This is about 20 inches long and looks great!

Wow!!! :D
That looks AWESOME!!! :D

A good friend at work asked me if I could do a Darth Maul style one...

Are you going to post your model when you are done?

Excellent work Bro! :)

Hello Maxx,

Thanks for the nice comment. Here's the link to the Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3651465

Light Saber Connector for Collapsing Light Saber

Woot! :D
Thanks Bro! :)

how do you print the blade all together, on my slicer, it looks like it is just going to print a solid tube. Is there any advise you can give to how to print the blade?

Not sure if you figured it out, but take your infill to 0% and print 0 top layers and 0 bottom layers. You will still want 2 perimeters.

You are talking about the "lightsaber-blade" file and not one of the vase mode files right?

Any way to make this work with a smaller Y axis capability?

I have a MakerBot Replicator Plus and the blade and hilt exceed the vertical limits.

If the hilt was in 3 pieces and the blade were in more segments, it would work!

Do you mean the z axis? If its not a lot you can always scale down just the z.

What size do you want each part?
Actually, if you could make a small sketch with parts and dimensions and post them here, I might be able to get something that will work for you.
Let me know, maybe I can help.

The top and bottom of my blades print fine, and there's no fusing at all....but my issue was that the middle - and seemingly only the middle - seemed to have a series of layer shifts for lack of a better phrase. I did use a brim on the outer shell, which kept that one ok, but the inner shells became warped in the middle. Any thoughts? I was thinking maybe a raft....I also accidentally printed it with 3 perimiters, but I don't think that was the issue as, again, the outer cylinder printed fine.

That is really weird that its so bad in the middle but not the top or bottom. The top and bottom still have a bunch of little bumps for some reason. This is with a MK3 too? 3 perimeters would not have made a difference. To me it looks like its to hot and not getting enough cooling but that is only a guess. What brand filament and what temp?

3D soultech, 215 (the default for PLA on the MK3 which I'm printing on). I didn't know the bumps weren't supposed to be there either. I printed two of your other swords and they had those as well, although those both worked.

I love me some solutech! That is the silver I used. I print it at 205, have you tried printing it a little cooler? Are you using Slic3r PE?

Yep, I am using Slic3r but the new version they just put out a day or so ago which I guess is called PrusaSlicer. I'll try printing it cooler and give 205 a shot - do you do the first layer at 210 and then 205 for the rest of the layers?

I don't but that's probably not a bad idea, I normally don't have adhesion issues. I don't use prusaslicer but I might start using it. I keep telling my self that.

Cool, thanks for the help, I'll post a make if I can get it printed! Thanks for the models too!

Im printing the blades separately in vase mode (spiralize outer contour).
So, I print them one at a time, I use a brim on outside only,
For Blade #1 I use a Brim on Outside only and Support. No top layers, but I do leave bottom layers on for this one.
For the rest of the Blades, I just use a Brim on Outside Only with no top or bottom layers, and no support.

Important that you change the Line Width in Cura to 0.85 mm or so...
This makes the wall about 0.87 to 0.92 mm thick. Nice and strong!
This will work with a smaller nozzle too, so if you are using a stock 0.4mm nozzle, it will over-extrude to form a nice thick wall.

If you need some help getting your slicer setup. I can post pics of my settings. Just let me know. :)

that's what i did, but with 0.80mm on the line width, pretty much the same... bumped my PLA temp of 10c... and instead of 60mm on the speed, im right at 15mm. pretty good! it seems really strong. the fit isnt the best tho, i have 2 blades printed so far and the taper angle doesnt seem the same as the other STL with all the blades at once or i missed something. the inside blade deploy but there's only like 1cm remaining inside the other blade, my guess is if I deploy it with some effort, I could makes it pop out hehehe

Hi, I've been having a lot of trouble on my past 3 attempts on printing the blade all together since it fuses together. If you use cura, could you please upload a picture of your settings?

Hi there,
Sure I would be happy to help! :)

I do print the blades separately, I could not get them to print well all together.

Here are my settings for the first (inner) blade:
https://i.gyazo.com/df8ccfe7ed8bfbb12b0cea0289236f47.png
https://i.gyazo.com/20cd926aef8925591d202b36a253429a.png

Here are the settings for the rest of the blades:
https://i.gyazo.com/ba89017ac3ef8cadf0958ec7c0cfeab9.png

The first difference is the support for the first blade, and bottom layers are on.

I recommend printing these separately, they seem to come out a lot better, stronger, smoother!

p.s. Dont forget to change your Line Width to about 0.85mm or so. The images I uploaded of my settings dont show this, I forgot to change the Line Width to 0.85 when I made the screenshots for you. This is very important to get a good solid strong blade!

Ok thanks, I am trying it right now. I've tried to print them all at once multiple times, so I hope this will work! Thanks again, and I'll let you know if it works. :)

Good luck! Should work.
:)

Thank you sooo much, I think with these settings it will work a lot better. This will be my 5th attempt, so I hope so!

yeah im torn if I should print each blade separately or try to print them all at once. i was thinking trying the test print and see if i can print them in the spiralize setting only with out the actual spiralize outer contour on.

I print each Blade part separately.
I tried the all in one version, but did not come out so good.
Single printing each piece in Spiral Vase mode works really good, just dont forget to increase the Line Width/Extrusion Width to 0.85 or so.

Thanks, I appreciate the response. I was actually able to get it to print on the second try, using some advice from the designer and lowering my temp. Not positive if that did it or if the mess up was just a fluke but it worked. Then I broke the blade after about 5 minutes lol - but, I printed a 3rd one out of PETG that seems much stronger and am currently making a second one that I'll post as a make, since the person I made the first one for really liked it. Thanks again.

Excellent :)
I have not tried PETG yet, but from what I have heard, it prints easy and is a lot stronger.
I cant remember if there was anything else specific to this material...
Using PETG like you are for the blades, sounds like a good idea!
Looking forward to your make!

I hope it works for you. If not you can always do vase mode.

Thank you, was able to get it after lowering my temp per your advice, and am in the process of making a second one I'll post as a make when complete!

Good news! Glad it worked for you.

I realize you made these designs for your kids but I have a feeling they will be a favorite among cospalyers as well. With that in mind, have you considered some possible mechanism for locking the blade in a closed position? Like, so you could wear it on your belt without the blade falling down? I suppose you could hang the bladed unit upside down from your belt... Other than a pin type system near the top of the hilt that when pushed in sort of pinched the blade in place, I can't really envision a way to do it. Though, I am not designer or engineer.

Oh, firstly I made them because I thought they were cool! ;-) You are correct, it would be nice if you could contain the blade. Someone gave me a good idea on my youtube channel. It might be hard to do it without adding bulk to the OD but I'll look at it.

Thank you so much for these swords and sabres! I am experimenting with just the printable blade section right now, trying to dial in the settings in cura for the best print on my Ender3. I have printed my best one yet, but I was wondering, how long should the blade be when fully extended (Without being in the hilt) ? Right now, I'm at ~72cm, but a couple segments are little tight when trying to retract.

My blade extends to 81.9cm.

Cool. Thank you. Gives me a goal.

SO far, I have found (in Cura) That the inner wall defaults to print twice as fast as the outer wall. For most prints, this is probably fine as the inside isn't seen usually. Slowing the inner wall speed to the same as the outer wall vastly improved the inside surface making it slide better and resulting in a longer extension of the blade. Also, with each print, I have dialed back the flow % and each print gets better. I do not think I over extrude in general, as I regularly do the extrusion test and calibration. I just think the nature of these tubes, being printed vertically and fitting inside each other makes them very very finicky about clearance space.

I didn't look into it as deep except to adjust my coast and wipe as I was getting weird zits and poxs without it. I may just be under extruding, I have calibrated my multiplier though. If I change the angle it will increase how far it extends but if it extends too far then it will break easier or fall out.

I think your length and angle is fine. I wouldn't change anything. I am just trying to adjust my print settings so I can get the full benefit of the design. Slowing down the inside wall did in fact make a much smoother inside wall. Unfortunately, it broke off the printer with lest than an hour to go =( But I did inspect the insides. They were very nice.

Ugg. That sucks.... So close.

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When I open the files for the individual blades on S3D, the blades show up as cylinders without the hole. Can anyone tell me why?

If anyone has successfully printed this on a CR10s, please post settings!

They are cylinders because they are printed in Spiral Vase Mode. So the printer just prints the outer wall, if your print ends up with a top and or bottom, just turn top and bottom layers off in your slicer, or reduce the number of top and bottom layers to 0.

printed 3 sets of blades so far, 3 hilts and caps. The cap threads into the hilt really tight! It takes some time to get it to screw in all the way, a little sanding, some deburring on the shoulders of the threads. After that, and a good polish with some 3M scrubber pads and it fits really good.
I think the shape of the threads needs to be changed so its not so tight, it will still screw in all the way and be tight.
Blades are really weak and snap off too easy, but this is because I printed them with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.32mm layer height.
I am now printing a new set of blades sliced in Cura using the same nozzle and layer height, but with the Line Width set to 0.85mm.

https://i.gyazo.com/5b9b652140b8901250b84873687fcd5e.png

Ill let everyone know how this works. :)

My threads are also super tight, I feel like they're gonna break. I'm also using Solutech silver. I've done a lot of design work as well as 3D printing and I think they thread do need adjusted but overall really cool design.

Scale the cap down to 99% of its original size.
Threads still fit a tiny bit tight, but only takes me about 1 minute to work the parts together to get the threads smoothed out.

There is a total of .25mm clearance between parts. If the fit is to tight you can always scale the cap down. Have you calibrated your extruder multiplier?

My threads are perfect, you may be over extruding. Or, bad cooling could cause the overhangs on the threads to droop. I would scale the cap a little on the second one so you don't have to do any post work.

The solid PLA blade I printed was pretty durable, but not the translucent. The kids broke that one pretty quickly.

Scaling down the cap to 99% worked great!
Threads still fit nice and tight, but only takes about 1 minute of working the treads together to get the cap to screw all the way down.

Thanks Bro! :D

I printed the cap at full scale and took some 320 grit sandpaper to the threads for a minute or 2 and did a couple passes on the threads inside the body of the saber and now it's like butter.

Yea, I had to do that too when printing the cap at 100% scale, I tried a 99% and a 98% scaled and found the 98% one worked best. Screwed right in, just a tiny bit tight, still gets nice and tight when screwed in all the way. No sanding! :)

Printing the individual blades with a 0.6mm nozzle and Line Width set to 0.85mm works great! :)
They are much more substantial now, they walls come out to about .87 to .9 or so...
It looks like I am over extruding a little, thats probably why the cap is a tiny bit tight.

I have given away a couple of these at work and now everyone wants one! LOLZ.... :D

Right on, Ill try scaling a tiny bit on the next one.
Im printing the 0.85 line width versions of the vase mode blades now... whew! :

I have the stock 0.4mm nozzle and I'm trying to print the blades in vase mode in Cura with 0.8mm line width and its overextruding between layers. When I print at the default 0.4mm line width it prints very clean but of course its too thin. Should I reduce the flow rate? I also tried Slic3r PE and changed extrusion width to 0.8mm and had the same overextrusion.

Sorry I'm no help, I changed to a 8mm nozzle...

I reduced the flow rate to 80% and it fixed the overextrusion, and first blade printed great.

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You could also try a bigger layer height, might solve the over-extrusion and print faster?

Is there an extrusion width in slic3r prusa or just nozzle diameter? printer settings>extruder1>nozzle diameter...I cant seem to locate it..ugh

Found it! Printer setting, advanced, extrusion, Default extrusion width.

Man I'm so blind..shoot..Thank You! Gonna do a test print and see how it comes out!

Yes, that's where its changed. I believe I also changed all the other values below default extrusion width to 0 (so that it uses the default extrusion width).

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Is there a layer width in slic3r prusa edition?..I am using an Mk3 prusa stock nozzle: 0.4mm....I think I am blind...anyone care to share settings? Trying to print out the blade portion

Yes, its under print setting, extruder, nozzle diameter. Actually, I don't know if that is for the line width or the nozzle diameter... S3D has two different settings.

Yeah Im a bit confused as slic3r prusa doesnt actually say width...of course you can change the diameter on the extruder..hmm..maybe ill just try another slicer

I'm just using stock settings and checking "vase mode". It prints fine but the layer adhesion is pretty weak in PLA. I think switching to PETG will probably do better, a glossy PETG look should be better anyway.

Could you create a print file for the end cap that has a little more length added on? I'm trying to mount a battery and light inside and I think the cap is the best place to put them, but there just isn't quite enough room for it how it is now.

If you have a sketch with some dimensions to go for, that would be easy to do.
Just reply and add a simple drawing with some dimensions you need changed, and Ill do it for ya. ;)

I just saw this, thanks so much for the offer of help! I'm not the greatest artist, but I gave my best to draw what I am thinking of. Please ask for any more details or any questions my bad drawings leave!

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Cool! :)
Ok so got the drawings, and I got a start on it.

https://i.gyazo.com/ead746835fc97e668b3f5cfe5eac441d.png

Will have to finish this after work, maybe a day or 2.

:)

That is amazingly close to what I was thinking!
Could we maybe add 3-5 more CM of length in the middle?
No rush, your doing me (a complete stranger) a favor! I appreciate the help in any form!
Thank you!

https://i.gyazo.com/9b1be379fbd79a1cfdd7a589ac80386a.png

Increased the overall height by 3cm.

Looks like its getting close to a test print, let me know what you think.
Ill make any last adjustments and post a .STL file for you to try.

:)

That is awesome! The only thing i can see that could change is filling in the middle a little more, so that only part of the center is hollow, i.e. a small diameter hole all the way through. I'm going to set the light in the hole and put the wiring down through it and place the batteries in the end cap this, place a little switch through the bottom. The light is only 15 MM in diameter, so it would be nice if the hole is a little smaller than that, as I have a dremmel to widen it a little if necessary. This is amazing though, I really appreciate your time and effort!

Try this one bro, I have not printed it yet, but it does look good sliced in Cura. :)

Ill try printing it out tomorrow! il let you know how it turns out. Thank you so much again!

Right on! :)
If you do need a longer one, let me know.
It will be super easy and quick to add length now that I have all the parts in 3ds max. ;)

Turned out really well! A few lines misprinted in the grooves, but they were simple to remove and it still works perfectly. Not sure if it was my printer or the print. Thank you so much man, Im going to work on putting it together and wiring it and see if its long enough, but I think it is! I need to reprint the blades too.. i broke them while messing around last night. Ill post a pic when its all done if it works out! Also the diameter of the inside could not have been more perfect, the light sets in it exactly how it is almost entirely flush!

Beveled the inner ring at the bottom so it shouldn't sag/string so badly.

If you plan to make a bunch of these, let me know how this iteration works. :)

Right on Bro! :)

Looks like the stringing inside was because of a lack of support on that inner ring before the cone and hole.
Ill take a look at that and see if I can get it to a better transition of 45 degrees or so.

I snapped some blades at first too, but that was because I did not read the instructions! Ha ha! ;)
Just make sure you set the Line Width in Cura to 0.85mm or so, otherwise the walls will be way to thin,
This works great for me using a 0.6mm nozzle, and should work fine with a stock 0.4mm nozzle too.

Ill post another .STL a.s.a.p. :)

So as i was putting it together today i noticed that the blades now extend outside of the hilt when they are retracted. I didn't realize but the gap in the original end cap holds part of the blades, is it possible to add a little space before the infill at the top without doing much more work? I might try printing the blades at a smaller overall height to fix it, I did buy new glow in the dark blue filament I want to try with the blades... Im going to try the the STL you posted yesterday later today

Sure, at this point I can extend the extension as much as you want, super easy! ;)

Just do a quick rough sketch again, if you can, and show me what needs to be done.
Happy to help!
:)

p.s. just saw this!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3651465

Light Saber Connector for Collapsing Light Saber

I apologize for my drawing skills, I was having a hard time trying to show the change I want with a drawing. But essentially I just want about 4 cm added to the top, before the infill with the small diameter hole starts, so the blades can still sit within the hilt without being partially extended when not in use. In other words the original end-caps inside area added at the top of yours, so that functionally they are the same until you reach the parts that you changed for me.

Ok sounds good, I have to work for the next couple of days, but I will get this to you a.s.a.p. ;)

Update: Work has been crazy, sorry for the delay. I have the next 2 days off, and will do this for you then. :)

That is nice, I was going to say we would need more information. Be sure to try the light first because I printed mine in translucent green and a really bright LED flashlight was not effective.

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Man you're a genius! Thank you for sharing!!

I've been called a lot of things before but never that! lol thanks!

Does it work if I scale down only the Z axis for the blade? a couple of mm (i have mk2).

also, is there the chance to insert some lights inside? :P

I don't see why it would hurt anything to scale it down a little.
I tried shining a LED in the end but its not very effective. Some people are working on UV reactive filament. That might work.

Did you use translucent PETG? Mine looks pretty good when shining a LED. I made it using a 0.4mm tip with 0.85mm layer width and 0.35mm layer height in spiral vase mode.
I would also like to know if you could post the saber hilt and cap in .step file format, making it more easy to remix using software that work with solids like FreeCAD.

is the removable blade compatible with bladebuilder from hasbro ?

hey! ok so printed two so far...they are awesome. however, they didn't last long...both the blades broke within a few minutes of trying to extend them pretty quickly - they would come through the friction. i printed vase at .8 extrusion width. I tried to go "tank force" and print it at 1.2mm width....but they were clearly not meant to be printed that thick and they do not extend far into them selves. anyway you could post vase mode blades that could be printed at 1mm or even 1.2mm?

What filament are you using? I found that solid PLA is a lot more durable than translucent.

yeah, i was using the florescent filament. i reprinted at .85 as per your note to another person, and increased the layer height from .2 to .32...seems to have added a good amount of strength and prevented the blades from coming "out" of each other too far. I think the .85 note is a good one and makes a huge difference between that and .8 thickness

so far so good

Ok, I forgot that I was going to update the details, I just did with the .85mm information. If durability because a issue for a lot of people I will update the file its just adding .5mm to every segment times two, is going to make the diameter so much larger. I just don't think it will look as good. Especially since the hilt should also be longer but I shortened it to fit in my Prusa.

You could try increasing the size of the blade by like 5%? Maybe that would get you enough clearance for a 1.2mm thickness.

He could scale X and Y by 150%?

@3DPRINTINGWORLD: I am having issues where Blade1 will not grab on the Blade2. It just falls out of the extended blade.

I have printed this at 0.08, using a 0.8 nozzle in vase mode on S3D. Any idea how to fix this issue?

I saw this recommandation everywhere.
Nozzle size limits your layer height.

Max layer height: 1/2 nozzle size
Min layer height: 1/4 nozzle size

I didn't have this issue with mine. I think it might be because I set my extrusion width to .85mm. Sorry about that, I did not think it would matter. I just know its better to extrude a little wider then your nozzle. Give it a try and let me know if it works. I'll update the details.

Hi there,

I've tried what you suggested for that part and it still is too loose. Do you think increasing the x and y percent under S3D will fix it?

Thanks

That might fix it but first I would try measuring the thickness at the top with a pair of calipers. It should measure .85mm.

Thanks. I managed to get it working

Could you share what you did? I also printed at 0.8mm and the first blade falls out of the second blade if you extend it quickly, so its sitting a bit too loose.

I had tried printing the blade regularly, but I had some under extrusion in the inner blades that I did not see at the time. When I went to go flick the sword open the blade shattered into a million little pieces. Lol, that was fun to clean up. Now I am at square 1 again in trying to print it out, but this time I think I will try the vase mode files and I will be a lot gentler with the pieces.

I successfully printed it at 76% scale (so the blade would be 150mm high) the concentric model (not the vase one) with a 0.4 nozzle. I had to lower the retraction distance at 0.8 for the blade (all metal hot end bowden mount) coast 0.2, wipe 5.0, wide 0.4 in PLA. I used S3D to slice. It wasn't too hard to let the parts shift fluently. @3DPRINTINGWORLD this model is the best I ever printed since I have my Geeetech i3 Pro B.

@3DPRINTINGWORLD: In one word: AMAZING!! What a design!! Thank you for your work and for sharing.

@Everyone: I'm new to 3d Printing and I'm not yet experienced in changing settings in slicer Does any one already tried printing this model using a Prusa i3 MK3S with Slicer PE ? Can you share your settings? I'll be printing this model using PLA...

Thanks!

hi whats your s3d settings? I'm getting blobs/fused in the test print..

Do you have coast a wipe set? I had to turn these on, but normally I don't.

found it i think.. I have "coast at end" checked....:(

What is the distance? What printer are you using? On my Prusa I use .2mm coast and 2.5mm wipe but if you have a bowden it will need to be longer.

CR-10s with a micro-swiss all-metal hotend.

retraction 6.5
coasting distance .20

I don't have a CR10 but I would think if it requires that much retraction you could have a lot more coast. I would try doubling it until its fixed or if you get voids then its too much.

Just a quick note for you - you don't need to wait for the 0.8 noz, you can just increase the width in the slicer, slow it down, crank the temp and away you go. might get you a test print just as well as saving you the hassle of switching nozzle
however, i will for sure be doing that!!

Yep, someone already suggested that below. I thought I heard that before but kinda forgot. I ended up switching nozzles and it came out amazing in vase mode.

What should the nozzle width be set to with a 0.2 nozzle to get a perfect print?

I don't have a parts cooling fan and it's printing like crap. Any ideas how to get it to print right?

Sorry I don't know. I have not printed without a fan. Why not add one?

My fan is borked and just needs replacing. I'm going to give it a try.

What would be the best settings for a 0.2mm nozzle to get the blade printing well and tolerances to be ok?

Can these models be scaled down to print something more akin to a desk toy or will that not work?

I would scale/print the lightsaber and then scale/print the "vase mode" files to create smaller versions while keeping the wall thickness.

You could try, it might work. I had not tried scaling it. If you decide to, let us know how it goes. You might consider 50% scale then the blade would be 1 shell thick. Clearance would only be .25mm though.

another awesome project. thanks John.

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Glad it worked out for you! I almost have my vase mode blade done, it's so pretty!

I am thinking about to try the .8.

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Its a lot more work and takes longer even with .5 layer heights which I printed this one at but it looks really nice not having any layer seams.

Oh, I might have a katana coming with a diamond shaped blade. :-0

we love our collection. thanks a lot.

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The katana didn't turn out so well. :(

What slicer are you using?

I have trouble printing the blades with slic3r PE

Can you be more specific about the problems you experiencing? Just finished printing the blades last night in slic3r, and it worked perfect. "LIGHTSABRE-Blade" file, standard nozzle, PTEG, 0.15 layer ,
Prusa I3mk3

Sorry, I haven't used Slic3r much. Is Wipe selected? You can add " Retract amount before wipe" if blobs are the issue. You can always print the individual pieces in vase mode .85mm wide if you cant get the assembled file to work. I'm doing this with a .8 nozzle now and the parts look amazing!

I ll try the vase mode. thank you

Have you tried printing with a line width of 0.8 with a 0.4 nozzle in vase mode? I use that method when making vases in clear PLA filament to make them more sturdy and they come out without any problems.

I printed this on a Prusa MK3, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.3mm later height, 0.85mm extrusion width in Vase mode and the blades turn out great. There is about a 40mm overlap between sections when blade extended.

Hi, I'm new to 3D printing. What would happen if I set my line width to .8mm with a .4 mm nozzle?

In vase mode you get a double thickness layer but you won't get the same detail that you get doing a 0.4mm width so doing the light saber 'blade' it is fine as it is made from tapered cylinders. I did one today using 0.8mm width in vase mode so I'll try and post my make tomorrow.

It's a bit off topic but one thing I did notice from using it with vase mode (for actual vases) is that when I did the bottom layers at 0.8mm thickness they were not water tight and leaked a bit so I use 0.4mm for the bottom if I do want them water tight but if I don't then I just leave them at 0.8mm.

I have not tried it but supposedly your'll be alright. I don't think there is a real advantage unless you are printing in the vase mode.

Dang you're right, I forgot you can print wider then your nozzle diameter. I have not tried that before but I thought I remember people having good luck with it. I already ordered my .8 so I'll try that since I can print larger layer heights and it will be faster but I guess it was not necessary.

Does it require Kyber crystals? And... if it does could you please point me to where I can order some?

Yes, in the Dagobah system. ;-)

Sweet, been waiting for this! And very nice paint job too. May the Fourth be with you!

Guess I have one quick question too, did you need supports at all for the overhangs around the emitter/neck area? Or was your cooling enough for it? I’ll probably end up doing it just for that spot to be safe since my printer doesn’t have anything resembling good cooling, but just curious.

Thanks, I spent a lot of time sanding it... I wished I would have used a satin instead of a semi-gloss clear coat, but I wanted to spray it with something so the paint would be more durable.

I didn't use supports, the max overhang angle is 45 so if you have decent cooling you shouldn't either.

Yeah I have a feeling I'll either be doing a lot of sanding or trying out the xtc-3d on my hilt. And thanks for the info, yeah after opening the file I see what you mean about the overhangs, wasn't as apparent in the pictures lol but cool. Supports suck lol.

I haven't tried xtc yet. I used filler primer and that seem to help a little.

Agreed, I hate supports. I would have liked to make the switch box square but I wanted to make it print without supports.

Yeah I haven’t tried xtc on anything yet either, but it’s supposed to be pretty good stuff.

And yeah, but still in this case, printing ease gets a pass over more film accuracy lol. Besides it still has a pretty decent look to it, maybe it it were me I’d have just made it a trapezoid by slicing the other end to end at an angle just to have more of an even feel. But overall looks great, can’t wait till it’s done printing.

Great. Thanks for sharing!

May the Fourth be with you!

Hey! Really awesome!
Thats definitely my next print!

May the Fourth be with you!

Awesome, I was waiting for this one after seeing the video. Great timing too.

May the Fourth be with you!

Going to the Oven right now !!! I mean Printer !!

May the Fourth be with you!