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mcmaven

Triple Axis Tourbillon

by mcmaven May 8, 2019
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hey, buddy! does the wiring with the potentiometer and Arduino Nano from your last tourbillon project work the same on this one? Because I like this one little bit better, so I am thinking about the gear-driven version with the potentiometer, so I can adjust the speed right with it. thank you for the answer and for this awesome project!!!

It will work, but...
An escapement requires constant torque. A stepper provides constant speed. I switched to the rubber band drive for two reasons; 1 the spring constant of the rubber band provides constant torque, and 2, even with the give speed control provided by the stepper, It has a tough time exactly matching the average rotational speed of the escapement. The rubber band can skip on the pulley, which prevents torque overloads, and breaking teeth off gears. I believe that the rubber band approach is a better solution for mating a stepper to an escapement. I didn't do it for the Furious because I couldn't figure out to make it fit.

Did you try to print the pinion out of any flex material? So it acts like a rubber? I am about to try and we will see :)

I did not, but it is is worth a try. Please let me know how it works.
For the Furious Tourbillon, I was thinking of making a 'coupler' that would use magnets to let the gear slip if necessary, and some heavy grease to prevent it from oscillating when it did slip. The Furious already has a mechanism to provide constant torque, I just need to prevent against torque overloads.

Do you ned a motor for this model or does it work without one?

There are 4 holes in the L1_Balance_Wheel. I tried adding 1, 2, 3 and 4 screws with nuts into these holes (I think M3x4). Each added weight makes the whole mechanism tick slower.

Just my little 2 cents... :-)

In the Build Notes section "3.3 L3" (page 8) you state: "The only thing special about assembling the L3 components is that the Left and Right L3 Upper Bearing Supports need to be cleaned up and glued together."

I assume that by "Left and Right L3 Upper Bearing Supports" you are reffering to the L3_Frame_2_a and the L3_Frame_2_b. Is that correct?

BTW: Looks like I got it ticking!!! :-)

I have to apologize. That paragraph is a cut and paste error, left over because I started with the Gyrotourbillon Notes when I created the Triple Axis Notes. It has nothing to do with the Triple Axis, so please ignore that paragraph...

I am trying to put the Screw 9mm into the three possitions in the L1_Bridge but it simply would not fit. The Screw 8mm fits fine. Are you sure there should be the Screw 9mm in those three places?
BTW I am printing this on a Form2 so elephant feet or other FDM printer "non preciseness" issues should not be going on here.

Use the Screw 8mm. They are simply cosmetic and act as a plastic washer. Because I used an FDM printer, in many cases it was easier to use the smaller Screw 8mm part, than to clean up the Screw 9mm and the hole. Also I checked, and I did use Screw 8mm parts in my build.

Hi, I was wondering if I can ask you a favor: Can you please post up an STL of the combined L3_Bearing_Race_Inner_a and L3_Bearing_Race_Inner_b?
Also the L3_Ring_Gear_a and L3_Ring_Gear_b should be glued together back to back so it would be nice to have these two combined also.

I am making this on a Form2 printer and it would be nice to have these two parts already "glued" together from the printer.

Thanks a bunch!

@McMaven, First off, kudos on such a fantastic challenge for the world to explore. I've been steadily printing all of the parts for weeks and am finally at the build stage. I have two questions though, that I hope you or anyone else who has successfully built this can answer.

1) In your instructions, it is not clear the order in which the balance spring and balance wheel are mounted. In the 3D exploded view, it almost looks like the balance wheel is upside down. Shouldn't the balance spring go inside the balance wheel, not below it?

2) On the L1_Fork_5, should I place the small bearings on both the closed side and the side that has a slight opening?

Thanks for your help!

You are correct, the Balance Spring should be above the Balance Wheel. The spring is mounted inside the balance. See Figure 5 in the Notes to see for the alignment requirements of the Balance, Spring and Shaft.

There are two 2x5x2.5mm ball bearings used by the Fork. To install the bearings, I ran an Exacto knife around the openings for the bearings on the top and the bottom of the fork to chamfer them a little, laid the bearing on a table, and pressed the bearing into the fork so that they are flush to the surfaces on the fork.

Looking forward to seeing your make!

Hi, just to get this really right for the first time (once I press the Balance_Wheel and the Balance_Spring together I don´t want to separate them anymore): The Spring should be inside the Wheel with the peg facing away from the Wheel? Otherwise it looks like I am all printed and set for assembly. Still waiting for some screws to arrive...

As for the L3_Bearing_Race_Inner and the L3_Ring_Gear: I already managed to combine the halves together with Meshmixer.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I'm glad that you were able to work out the ring gear issue.

Yes, the spring should be inside the wheel with the peg facing away from the balance wheel spokes. The angle that you press the balance wheel on the balance shaft doesn't really matter, but the angle between the balance spring peg and the balance shaft post is important. See my notes for the orientation. BTW, the balance spring presses on pretty tight, but I have been able to remove it by working the edge of an Exacto knife around where the balance spring mates with the balance wheel, and twisting the knife as I go to separate them. Looking forward to seeing your make.

FWIW - I measured the step count on the 28BYJ-48 stepper (from Amazon), and it turns out it's 2048 for one revolution at the output shaft. (either there's a lot of misinformation out there or there are different versions of this motor). That works out to 64 steps per rev internally and a gear reduction of 32:1 (or perhaps the other way around?) In any case if you use STEPS_PER_REV=2048 then SPEED will be in shaft RPM.

Hi, what is the Bridge_Pulley_Jig.STL file for? I don´t see it anywhere in the documentation. Maybe I´m just blind...

Hi. I had originally designed the Triple with a ring gear and pinon, which didn't need a bridge, so there were no holes in the Base_Body to attach the Pulley Bridge. And I accidentally posted the Base_Body STL that didn't have the holes. The Bridge_Pulley_Jig.STL can be used for drilling the holes for the Pulley Bridge if you had printed the original Base_Body STL. Since then I have corrected the problem, posting a Base_Body STL with the holes. See my reply to Thor242 below.

Thank you for putting up the L1_Balance_Wheel_2.STL.

I noticed there is a L1_Balance_Spring_2.STL - what is the difference between this one and the former L1_Balance_Spring.STL?

Hi, the L1 Balance Wheel contains these wierd parts that seem to not belong there. My question is: Should they be removed after printing?

Looking at the videos of the watch, the balance wheel was split above the spokes, and screw was installed in the hole to add weight to it (see the attached image). I modeled the split in the balance wheel and a hole for the screw, but I was concerned that if I tried the add a screw it would fall out, so I added tiny standoffs (that you are referring to) to hold the separation between the top and bottom. However I never made a model for the Balance Wheel Screw, so if you want to cut out the standoffs, it won't effect anything.

Looking at it more closely, the standoffs used to connect the top and the bottom, but I made the balance wheel taller to be more in proportion with the watch, and neglected to make sure the standoffs stretched to fill the gap...

In my opinion it would be a good idea to either remove them (the standoffs) completely, or strech them all the way to connect the top and bottom, because the slicer generated support acts really messy in that spot. It is such a small gap that the slicer does not relly know what to do with it...

I just posted a L1 Balance Wheel 2.STL file that stretches the standoffs horizontally and vertically. Now the span the gap, and the go all the way across, leaving just a vestige of the split.

Great design. Printing it now.
The Base Body STL does not contain the holes to mount the Stepper Pulley Bridge though....
(and not to nitpick, but the page headers on the build note pages lists the Gyrotourbillon Build Notes.)

I have posted an updated Base Body.STL file with the holes for the Stepper Pulley Bridge. Also I added a Stepper Pulley Jig.STL file, just in case you've already printed the base. Screw in the stepper motor, slip the jig over the shaft, adjust it so it points towards the center of the base, and drill the 2mm holes. Sorry about that.

Ahhh... just another victim of 'cut and paste'. I'll fix it. Thanks.

Awesome! I was mostly done printing the base when I noticed. Thanks!

Hi, the file L2_Idler_gear_28T_M1.STL is not mentioned in section 7 of the Build Notes. Please correct me if I am wrong!

You are correct. Thanks, I will fix it.

Hi, is there any metric equivalent for the 0.3125x0.5x0.15625in ball bearing? Thank you in advance.

In metric the ball bearing translates roughly to 8x12x4mm. I wasn't able to find any metric ball bearings this size and proportion, so those are the only imperial ball bearings in the design. I used them because they supported a relatively large shaft, without being too large in height or diameter.
These are the ones that I picked up on Amazon for about $10, but I see that they are not available any longer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGQ54Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But these should work.
https://www.ebay.com/i/291008790735?chn=ps

Search for "10 Pack - R1810-ZZ Ball Bearing". Maybe you can find a better deal.

Those bearing look like they would do the job. I just ordered some, and will definitely use them in future designs. I always bothered me that one part was not metric.

I like to have built and tested any STL files that I post, so I can verify that they work. Changing the bearings would mean changing the all the long print time parts, i.e. the L1, L2, and L3 frames. If you have a compelling reason to change bearings, I will do it, but I'd rather spend my time on new projects. Are you unable to get the other bearings?
Or are they too expensive?

I can rework the parts for the bearings, thanks.

Hi, it looks really cool and I try to recreate.

Can you show me the electrical parts of them?
I think it would be very helpful for me.

Thanks in advance Ralf

There's a PDF document in the thing files that with a dedicated section on the electronics, that has the links to the parts (motor and Ardunio board) that you need and schematics. Let me know if you need more information.

Another beautiful design - looking forward to giving it a try.

Edit: is L3 Ring Gear missing from the files? Also Stepper Pulley and Stepper Pulley Bridle.

I posted the 'Stepper Pulley', 'Stepper Pulley Bridge', 'L3 Ring Gear a' and 'L3 Ring Gear b' STL files. Let me know if you have any other issues.

Just starting to print, but can't seem to find the "L1_Balance_Adjuster" in the files.....Thanks in advance.

I renamed the 'L2 Balance Spring Adjuster' STL to 'L1 Balance Spring Adjuster' so the name matches the documentation. Looking forward to seeing your make.

Look for the L2_Balance_Spring_Adjuster.