Velociraptor Business Card

by Cleven, published

Velociraptor Business Card by Cleven Jun 13, 2014

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Added first draft of raptor not in card form.
Business card that assembles into a Velociraptor. Small area to add information on tail.
Simply extrude cut into the stl file after import. Do not cut through all. Best results found to be using a depth of around .4 to .5mm.
Update: Removed jaw pincher, as it was not really needed. Increased size of tail, as some were having difficulties with balance. Hopefully this improves this.
Feel free to donate: https://www.paypal.me/Cleven


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printing at 100% infill did not come out right.. any suggestions?
using FF creator pro, 1.75mm PLA, 180deg ext, 60deg bed, .2 layer height

Go with a 0.1 layer height. Print speed can have an effect. Your printer will decide what it can do.

Comments deleted.

It's a puzzle. There is a guide in the pictures provided n

I might just have a slow printer but it took an hour for me to print this.

Depends on layer height and print speed. Slower is usually better in general :-)

.1 and 50mms. also doing retraction though so it turns out good. Thanks

The pdf file is still blank

It's a 3D PDF. I don't think they open on macs if I recall. And or you need to update your viewer

It's a 3D PDF. You need to open on a computer or update the viewer. It doesn't open if you don't have the proper viewer.
Also the instructions are in the image of it. Simply match the numbers together and build.
It's not that difficult. And it is a puzzle for a reason.

Thanks for you reply.
I have print the image.
This puzzle is for a seven years children and it is better with the number.
I understand why it's a puzzle mais it is difficult for a children.

The PDF just allowed for you to rotate and view it together in 3D. You are able to do this also on Thingiverse as the model is there assembled :)

the pdf file is BLANK. Please repost it with assembly instructions.

The pdf file is still blank

I didn't want to print this via 3d printer, so I converted the files to a cut-file for a laser cutter. Obviously it's not practical to find such thin wood with which to make it at scale, so I enlarged it to create 3 mm slots. The fit in the slots is very tight, but an emery board will free them up just a bit if needed. I have to re-cut the top of the rear leg joiner as the top slots are angled off-vertical and the parts with which they mate are vertical.

I could see there being issues. As plastic is a bit more forgiving / flexible. Cool that it worked out.

Worked great for me. No rafts or supports. Printed on a makerbot replicator 2 with 1.75pla.

What settings did you use?

Ive been trying to get this print to work on a M3D, but can't get the settings correct. What material is best to use and is a raft or bed necessary?

Not familiar with the printer, and not sure what issue you have been having. Description of how it is printing can help.
but for settings try using:
PLA material
0.1mm layer at ~40mm/s speed. Initial layer speed at ~20mm/s
Solid print infill at 100%
nozzle temp ~215-225c
Heated bed to 65c or if no heated bed use painters tape or glue stick.

How do you alter the information on the tail?

You will need to extrude or cut any info you would like using a modeling program.

How did you design this? did you use a special program for each piece or did you just figure it all out in your mind? anyways a really really nice design! I love it!

Have a nice day

I had a general shape of what I wanted. I drew it on paper first in parts. Then I put each part into solidworks or maybe it was solid edge one of the two. From there I just modified moved and made it fit into the size and shape it is today. Experimented until I had something that worked.

Very, very nice design, I am truly amazed!

Thanks, but I think your designs are a bit more complex than this one :)

Yeah, I used the one on the webpage, but wanted to pass on the download error issue.

Am I the only one seeing a blank pdf instruction sheet? Glad its here! ;)

strange, just use the image on the main page
Here is a link to it below. hopefully it works.

Comments deleted.

Non of the stl-files has the same tail as the one in the last pic.. :/

The last pic with the two?
That one is a larger one I made first. Then I trimmed down to fit to the size of a business card.

Lol I love how it's all normal then boom humping dinosaur.

And here I was, thinking I was the only one that noticed that

Haha I was just thinking the same thing

Great design.. was wondering if you are interested in working together to make and sell your product in Asia through www.tridii.com

This was not an easy print. It took about 5 tries before I got an acceptable print. The overall thickness should be 1mm. Although it is not needed I would suggest using a pair of tweeters for assembly.

Is this supposed to require much infill when printed? I sliced with Simplify3D and the print is so thin (using PLA, 61%infill and 0.1 layer height) that something else must be wrong (yeah, i have a leveled bed).

May be wrong on the top/bottom layers setting? May be this requires a 100% infill? Anyone?


100% infill is usually best
Without a picture it is hard to say the issue. Maybe scale up the z?

Comments deleted.

I couldn't help but laugh at that final picture!

One of the few who notice :-)

hahahaha that cracked me up !

What are the recommended print settings for this? I've tried it in PLA, but am getting a lot of stringing between the various parts.

Do you have retraction on?
Just print at 0.1mm layer height retraction enabled. Slower speed until you figure out the issue.
Make sure the bed is levelled and not too close to the nozzle to reduce contact between the parts. (If the bed is set too close you may have some over extrusion and they will connect)

I'll try a different slicer. Had tried previously with MatterSlice through MatterControl. It doesn't give much option for retraction settings.

Printed perfect, and joints was perfect.
Very nice to assembly. Thanks for the great design.

I would recommend moving the sprues on the bottom of the feet to extend from the ankle or elsewhere to make the bottom of the foot clean a flat for a more stable stance.

mine prints way too thin. I can't assemble the pieces because they're too flimsy.

perhaps re level your bed? or scale up 10%?

Add a tutorial to assembly the dinosaur.

There is an image with instructions. Simply use the diagram and match number to number. You should be able to work it out.

It is a puzzle after all :)

Simply and fun, Amazing!

love the idea!! every time i slice in replicatorg it prints out the negative instead of the actual parts. and it show exactly what u have on the slicer so its not a miscommunication. i tried 3 diff files plz help def want this

UPDATE !!!!!!!!!!fixed by changing slicer went with maker bot worker fine

Mine does the same thing are you using sailfish...real frustrating

I used cura to print. I havent had any issues with negative images.

Have you tried a difference slicer?

i tried slic3r and repg with skeinforge same result, i know it must work cause of the makes, but out of the very manythings ive sliced this on file is the only prob ive had.

Maybe download the file I have posted on youmagine. Maybe there is a glitch on the one here.

Not the end of the world, but the short edge near the tail seems a bit thinner than the rest and as a result that side doesn't get printed when Simplify3D is used as the slicer if you've got an Extrusion Width around 0.4mm (like I do with my 0.35mm nozzle on my Makergear M2 printer). The actual puzzle seems to print fine, but it kills the business card shape. Making the outside boundary just a hair wider would fix this.

I'm away on vacation. If you scale the model up 5% or whatever is needed it will work just fine and still be about the same size. Or import into solid works and you can re extrude a new outer

I had the same problem with Simplify3D but scaling it up 5% didn't help. So I used the dxf file supplied and widened the edge by 0.1mm and it works fine now.

I used cura to test the prints. I didn't have issues there.

I used cura to do the test prints. I didn't have issues there.

Hi, This is amazing model! What plastic is better to use for this one? PLA or ABS? What is layer thickness is advised?

Pla due to reduced deformation. Makes it a bit easier but not much of a difference with this one. I used .1mm but from the photos others have used more and less. Just give it a try. Little time and little material :)

I have a logan lath model 910 I want to no if you can make the gears for power.and the banjoe gears.i would like to buy the set I need.and try this new way of gears.and want price,Ron

? Strange place to ask ...

This would be awesome to hand out if I worked in a museum!

Or awesome to give to someone so they remember you instead of tossing your normal business card in the garbage.

I'm sure palientologists worldwide are rejoicing ;)

Yes probably!

Could I get a dxf or eps file so I could laser-cut this out of acrylic sheet?

added. Note the layer maybe frozen so look for hidden layers if it comes up blank.

I'm really excited to print this thing but when I try to slice it in slic3r it says there are manifold errors. If I upload the model to netfab to fix the errors then slic3r hangs and never finished slicing or if it does then it only does part of the model and I only get a few parts of the card. Has anyone else had similar issues that they've been able to resolve?

I uploaded the step file. You should be able to import and then export as an STL
Look for normaltail.stp. Let me know if this helps

i dont understand this... you are printing a 2-d business card on a 3d printer... why no just print a 3d dinosaur?

Also, I think you missed the point. Its a business card. You hand it out flat and the person gets to assemble it.

It's called a puzzle. And it isn't exactly 2d. It has depth to it so it is 3d.
What do you call Lego? Same basic principle. Also it only prints in 10minutes.

I've been working with this last night (till wee morning) and this evening. Can't get either .stl files to slice correct. The normal tail file will leave open the area of the tail as a blank place and the mirror file will put lots of print on 2nd layer (print in air,both files will)where no plastic layer should be. Have tryed .25 and .3 layer heights and still not slicing properly.
This is the first time i have had problems with slicing a .stl file and is really getting me down. Been working both with the files and the slicer and still not working. I am using replicatorG and sk50 to slice.
Have searched the web for a simple gcode reader to save from wasting a lot of time and plastic. Found the only one that seems to work"http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14980http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... "! If you know of another that works, please let me know.
If you could post the cad file, .dwg or so, would be a great help... i hope! I have autoCad and some other programs i may can load it and then convert back to .stl file. Have had great luck doing that on my own files.
Thanks for any help, feel this would be nice to give away to some kids for playing with.
Thanks, Rick.

by m6mafia

Pm me with what cad program's you have I can send you the best possible version

When did you download it? I had two errors in the files when I updated on the weekend. I fixed them Monday morning. So if before Monday redownload the stls

Maybe something with those files, because i loaded the step file you sent into solidworks and saved it as a .stl and everything's fine now. All except for part connect #13 which is a saint it being so small. !! :)

Would it be possible to make a SketchUp file? Or what program do I need to get to be able to extrude the Card info? This is a great and fun idea, nice work!

I do not use sketchup really I know it doesnt have many import options. I think there are some plugins that allow for import of STL into sketchup. Solidworks works rather well at editing STLs.

Congrats on being featured!

brilliant! hmmm, how to make this Customizable.... perhaps as an exquisite corpse...

will see if i can swing the customizable thing tonight. Though one can always import into most cad programs and extrude and or cut out what is needed to customize names etc.

The trick is that Customizer doesn't let you reference STL files, so you need to compile the STL into the OpenSCAD script, using something like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62666http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... . If you have trouble with this, I'm happy to help.

STL to OpenSCAD converter
by Riham

cool, thanks, I was looking into it this morning, but I am at work and I am unable to install openscad the site is blocked. I will have to try and do it when I get at home.

LOL @ the last photo :D

congratulations on making a Featured model i was on of the first to print thank you for the great model

Thanks, took a while to get it right. From paper to model. :)

fixed lower tail issue. Re download if you were having issues.

Added newer extra card without the square side of the tail.

Added a slightly normalized tail instead of having a message area.

In the FinalCardmirror.stl file, when I load it into Repetier-Host, the tail section appears to be shifted one layer above the bed and the rest of the pieces. Slic3r thinks it is, also - the tail doesn't show up in the generated gcode until the 2nd layer. I've tried slicing at .25 and .30 layer heights and still no tail 'till layer 2.
Was this a side-effect of lengthening the tail?

there i fixed it. seems in my last update i must have moved it. My bad :D

Try re downloading the model?

Thanks! I'll do that --- just did.
Oops - both of the card models have the tail section offset down one "layer". You can actually see it in Thingview.
The rest of the card prints out fine and the parts of the model that I can put together look very good. I'm looking forward to eventually printing out a few of these for some folks at work.
BTW, by "side-effect", I was alluding to the well-known phenomenon: "when you work on one part of a system, you often break a different, supposedly-unrelated part of the system."

Fixed mating error. I had to delete all mates and reinsert the part. For some reason when I was saving as an STL it kept moving.. odd issue

I uploaded and inspected. It was fixed on my computer. I'm in Denmark away will Monday morning :/. If you can start the print a bit lower? I will fix it again Monday morning but give it new file names..

Sorry for the delay getting back here. The new files are perfect. Thanks for your effort in getting this corrected. It's a great model and a great print!

would have been sooner, but I had to escape down into Germany for the weekend.

Hi Cleven, would like to try lasercut this would you be able to conver the .STL into a DXF ?
Also suggeston to post assembly in PDF format

I have added them an other specific files on my Youmagine account. See http://Youmagine.comYoumagine.com

have a look now.

It would be helpful to have a an .STL file with the thing fully assembled. It isn't totally clear from the pictures what part is used where. And the parts in the picture don't match the .STL file provided. Apparently there have been changes since you took those pictures.

photos added

The only change was in the tail. I increased the length of the tail slightly and added a longer straight edge.
I can make an assembled stl file, but this isnt a difficult puzzle. If it looks like a raptor when you are done it is good enough no one will know or care if a piece is on backwards.. I assume the issue is in the pelvic hip area :D I can post more photos

It appears in the pictures that the bigger one has 4 sets of rib cage bones. But the little dinosaur has 3 sets of rib cage bones.
It would also be nice if the tail could have the straight stuff snapped of so if the person doesn't want a logo on the tail, it can just be a tail.

the bigger one is another model I made earlier, and posted on for a laugh. I removed a rib and shortened the legs. Same parts other then a small scaling.

Do you have another one printed in something other than orange? If you could assemble the pelvic area with several different colors, it would be much easier to figure out which pieces are there. The problem is that orange is kind of bright and I can't quite make out the pieces.

I do but they are not separated. Someone posted a photo of one they made that isn't as bright.

Ha! I finally got it together! Time to print another one!

fully assembled model has been added :)

Yes!!!! But too late for me! Once you get one together, it is obvious where everything goes. But until then, it is pretty cryptic. Having the fully assembled version of the .STL would have really helped me! At least it is there for everybody else now.

yes it is too late for you... ;( . but it made me make the model and another instruction with match the number to number.

The extra on the tail is for text. If you wanted it less just print and scale smaller the other model I have on here. It has a bit more detail too

Just thickened the supports slightly in depth. Also added a few more supports. After a few more higher quality test prints I noticed there was an issue to be improved. Eventually I may make a solid bottom with a fine edge to pop out.

Amazing work. Too bad the non-commercial license means nobody can use it.

One cannot sell or make for profit but they can use it as a business card or gift. Meaning free to use but someone can't sell it in a store as an example.

No...really. Read the license. It means you can't even use it to put your companies information on (and still be abiding by the license), because that would be advertising and thus financially benefitting from it.

That is a survey of people;s opinions of what uses of online content they consider "commercial" vs. "non-commercial". So (1) it's not a definition of the terms of the license, and (2) it's about web content, not 3d printed business cards.
The definition athttp://wiki.creativecommons.org/Frequently_Asked_Questions#Does_my_use_violate_the_NonCommercial_clause_of_the_licenses.3Fathttp://wiki.creativecommons.... concludes with "Whether a use is commercial will depend on the specifics of the situation and the intentions of the user."
Given that the designer called it a business card, put an area on it for people to put their information, and advised people on how best to do so, I think the intentions are pretty clear - he wants people to use the design for business cards. So the non-commercial term (IMO, IANAL) is aimed at more directly commercial applications, such as if someone wanted to sell business cards using his design.

The designer was the person who originally made the puzzle, who did not call it a business card, and this author merely needed to use that license because it's a share-alike. You do not know the intention of the original author.

Cleven published this design and called it "
Velociraptor Business Card". Are you saying that he's not the designer? It's not tagged as derivative of anything else on Thingiverse. If it's derived from someone else's work, that should be added...

The original (me) designer did call it a business card :/ I had to make this from scratch and from photo of raptors, I originally drew it out on paper to fit it together to make sure it worked.

That answers that! Thanks, Cleven, for your clever design!

It is for personal use, share alike. non commercial use in this case is that the user is not permitted to print and sell them at a monetary profit. If you want to use this say in a job interview or to make a fun personal business card for yourself or as a gift that is fine. I do not want to remove the commercial setting due to the fact anything I share I do not feel anyone should make a profit from. Should only benefit personally.
If someone wants to do more just email me.