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SHENKOE

Ender 3 Leveling Wheel/ Knob

by SHENKOE May 18, 2019
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Thats a great idea,I can not stop spinning the wheel every time I have to move the bed. Thanks :)

You're very welcome. I did not have the honor of experiencing what many others have with them spinning loose and failing, etc etc. I designed these a week after I got the printer and since I have 2 ender 3s I kinda stole the ones from one printer when I modified my bed to use 3 points instead of 4. You can see the difference in leveling style and setup in the pictures compared to the original setup. Check this https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770 and this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460 for more detail.

od lets not forget this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722

Hot Bed Leveling and 3-Point Mounting
Simple Ender 3 mod for 3-point tramming
by rrwrex
Hot Bed Leveling and 3-Point Mounting
by SHENKOE

Nice idea too, but is it necessary in a glass bed also like the one you have?

also the only reason I even considered designing these was to use with this kind of setup

The basis of leveling is the same either way. The only thing a glas bed serves is to give you a truly flat surface, that doesn't warp from heat transfer. My setup ensure I have a truly flat surface, with a deadlocked bed once it is leveled by tightening the 2 knobs against each other with the y carriage in between. no auto bed leveling no tricks or gimmicks

I haven't leveled my bed in over a month I hit print and walk away. I do not watch the 1st layer, unless Im bored or taking pictures for my imgur or others. I call it walk away printing. if for some reason the print doesn't stick it is due to a setting i forgot the change, like when I slice PETG with a z offset higher than the bed, or I neglected to clean the bed after too many prints, or i got all feely touchy with my print surface.

some swear there is no difference between 4 point leveling and 3 point leveling, but math doesn't lie and 3 points make a plane and the y axis is a plane, as well as the z and x axes. A 4th leveling point will adversely affect the bed, it can cause warping of the surface, although minimal, in 3d printing even a bed surface that is 0.4mm off in one area can be detrimental to the entire bed at that point. Check the hotbed leveling and 3-point leveling guide made by @Makeitmakeitmakeit. He wrote it up, I proofed it, he edited, I again proofed it and here we are today.

His printer has been leveled for about 6 months with no change.... I think he had to relevel a month or so back, but only because he messed with the bed when modding his makerselect v2; I have done this on my anet a8 and 2 ender 3s. Myself and other have done this and I did it under his guidance, after already starting the conversion, to further substantiate the claim that it is a valid method. And so far I cannot denounce any of the information in his guide for it has done what it was supposed to do.

Not sure if this will clear up any confusion as to why I do what I do with my print bed and leveling. I can got kinda long winded but I hope I covered in in-depth enough for ya.