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3DPRINTINGWORLD

Collapsing Sith Lightsaber (Removable Blade)

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Jun 3, 2019
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Any plan to do the Rey/Luke/Anakin saber.

Thinking about printing some for a library event we do.

Thanks !!

Luke's ROTJ lightsaber was the first one I did, check my things.

So who's creating the screw on light adapter base?

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What are the recommended print settings for the blade?

So, I've tried to print the all in one blade twice now and both times it failed due to this melted blob forming. Both failures were similar but at different heights, ~180mm the first time and 155mm the second time. The print goes perfectly until this happened. Unfortunately I was not watching things when it occurred both times. Any ideas as to what might cause this?

Did it become loose from the bed?

Unfortunately, i did not see exactly what happened, but both times the blade was laying flat on the bed. But, i suspect that the blob formed and as the nozzle was moving, knocked it over.

so, i have an update on this. my two failed prints were printing off of my Octoprint (raspberry pi) server, connected over usb to my Ender3. I've never had issues printing in this way, but a little research implies that this may be my culprit. It's possible that the communication lagged from Octoprint to the printer, causing the nozzle to pause, which developed the blob. This is definitely one of the longer prints that i've attempted, so thinking that could be the issue.

So, with that said, I'm now trying to print directly off the SD card. Unfortunately, the first layer is causing me problems when printing from the SD card. My issue is that the first layer is not adhering well to the bed. This isn't an issue when printing from Octoprint. I went back to the "test" print and see the same behavior between Octoprint vs SD card! The test print is fine from Octoprint, but the same gcode off the SD card has adhesion problems. I think the nozzle is moving faster when printing from the SD card as opposed to from Octoprint. Is that even possible if both are using the same gcode file?

I would not think octoprint would cause a lag as its still reading directly from the SD. Plus it should not effect your first layer as its using the same g-code.

Actually, when printing from Octoprint, in my case, the gcode file is on the raspberry pi, not the sd card.

I meant that the g-code is on the SD card on the PI.

ah yeah, sorry. you are correct there. my understanding is that when printing from the raspberry pi, there is some latency because the gcode is sent one line at a time to the printer. anyways, i haven't had a chance to try and print the blade again. i'm either going to try to do one blade part at a time through the octoprint and/or try and tweak some settings when slicing to get it to print nicely directly from the sd card on the printer.

Is the blade on this one interchangeable with the blade on the other light saber model with removable blade?

Yes but they are different lengths.

I seem to be having issues with this model and have printed multiple of the other lightsaber and several of the other swords, so not sure if its me or not on this one, but I get failed / total spaghettified prints at around the same part. I'm printing .2mm with 15% infill and 3 perimeters....nothing really fancy in terms of settings...wondering if anyone else has had any issues around this layer?

What is hanging out of the side on the one on the left?

Has anyone printed these with a .6 nozzle? I tried but the walls stuck together. I used a .2 layer height

I would not think it would work with a .6 nozzle unless you scale it up 1.5 x's. ;-)

Thanks! maybe i will try it scaled.

Hello, I am trying to slice using prusa Slic3r and print on my MK3S. however there is no coast/wipe feature on the Prusa Slic3r. I have played with the retraction settings, 1.5-2 mm retraction causes the blade to be very short when fully extended. 1.2 mm retraction causes the blade to extend fully, but not smoothly enough.

any advice on what settings to use on the prusa Slic3r?

I would think retraction setting would have a bearing on how far the sword extends unless its because you are getting zits at layer changes. The setting that would effect this more is your extrusion multiplier. If it his is reduced it will effect the line width. Also, there is a wipe setting in prusaslicer. Wipe before retract, or something like that. Its entered as a percentage.

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

Any chance you could provide a file that has all the blade files together? So that you can print them all at once? Like in your original swords?

They are all together in the "lightsaber-blade-sith" file?

Ah. Well yes they are. I was overthinking the comments about the vase files and didn't realize I could just skip all those and only print the lightsaber-blade-sith file. Thanks!!

Is this a bad idea? Printing them together like this?

It should not cause any issues but personally If I was printing both of them at the same time I would put them next to each other.

Ok, thanks! I just figured it would print faster that way, but I trust your expert advice more than mine. :)

Oh. I'm an idiot. The whole point is that they can be different colors. I need more coffee.

You definitely could have charged a couple of bucks for these. Thanks for making them free though! Printing now.

I make my designs for either me or my friends and family but putting them on here is a bonus! I figure I'm making them anyways I might was well share. I like to keep it free but I appreciate when people use my amazon links as its no cost to them but helps me to justify spending money on supplies so I can come up with more ideas. I think its the best way to do it, I might not make as much money this way but its really not the reason i'm making.

Bless you! This is the spirit that the world needs

a cuanto relleno soléis hacerla

Infill? Its not real important because most of the walls are really thin but 15-20% is fine.

Comments deleted.

what's your next project?

Not sure, got some ideas?

here's a few for more collapsable swords (i'll tell you more about 3 of them)

  1. tahu sword (bionicle heroes) 55meZU6
    6.dengasher (kamen rider den-o) denga2
    5.gashacon breaker (kamen rider ex aid) (my favorite kamen rider)
    4.hellboy 2019 excalibur
    3.power rangers ninja steel sword/ninninjer ichibanto (I reccomend including a space for power stars) 10306882
  2. ninja sword gold (power rangers ninja storm)
    1.ryusoulken (kishiryu sentai ryusoulger) mar 2019 ryusoulger-dx-ryusoulken

Power rangers fan? I'll look them over and see if any of them are possible. It hard because the blade has to be smaller then the handle.

Do you need support for the lightsaber

When i print the individual pieces in vase mode, parts 1,2,3 slide through each other. Just wondering if anyone else has this issue or if its my settings.

Did you change your line width to .85mm? If so, measure the width to verify that its that wide.

I got it taken care of, it was my settings. Thanks for your reply.

I printed two parts in vase mode before seeing this, they look great but fall through each other. Can you share what you changed exactly, please?

I would measure the thickness. If its less then .85mm, raise your extrusion multiplier a few percent. If it measures 85mm, try going a little wider.

I printed it with two shells in the end, came out great!

What filament brand and color did you use to print that hilt?

Only the best filament known to man, haha. No but it is one of my favorites, there is a link in the details if you scroll down a little.

i ordered this filament. what temp do you usually print it at?

Woah! This is neat, although a bit delicate. I'm sure these would be great for a quick cosplay build!

Could you make this compatible with Bladebuilders? The only thing you would need to do would be to add a few holes to the lightsaber.

when i make the test print the pieces dont stop and fall apart

The test print is not designed to work. If your parts don't stick together and they measure around .85mm, you should be good.

Could you put a flashlight in the hilt? And with a non translucent red would the fleshlight still have a good effect?

It didn't with transparent green.

These swords are awesome! I've printed a few already and get lots of comments that people had no idea you could 3D print things like this. The problem I have, is that a couple of blades have broken, which isn't a big deal, but I only want to reprint the broken section. I realize you have the individual blade pieces included, but in Cura 4.1 (and 4.0) they show up as solid when I open them, and even with zero infill, they still want to print a top and a bottom. So I tried using Spiralize Outer Contour, which fixes the solid top, but leaves a solid bottom, and will only print a single layer shell, where my print in place blade has 2 layer shells. Any chance you can create a hollow version of the replacement blade parts?

Thanks,
Heath

I printed mine in PETG with a 0.6 mm nozzle and line width of 0.8 mm using spiral mode. They seem pretty strong although have not tried to any strong whacks with them. I also went up just a little on temp to make sure layers were bonded well.

You can print them in spiral mode with no top and bottom layers with your extrusion width set to .85mm, which is your best option. If you don't want to do that slic3r will let you separate models but I don't know about Cura. You can always use meshmixer(its free) to separate the bodies to their own stl file.

Why did you have to go and design this? Now I have to print this one out as well, because there needs to be balance in the force. I already printed the ROTJ lightsaber. :-)

You learn well young padawan, for I must bring balance to the force.

Can you please double check that the Sith-4 blade is correct? I printed all 5 and it seems that number 4 is the wrong dimensions as it barely fits in 5 and number 3 slides right through it. I only have a couple hours to go on the hilt printing so excited to piece together.

Sorry about that, normally I test all my files before uploading them but the filament I was going to print the vase mode blade in got wet so I was not able to. Its fixed now.

When I click the big blue "DOWNLOAD ALL FILES" button at the top of the page, it just takes me to a list of the files now, instead of downloading a zipped package of everything.

Same thing here, no idea....

Probably had something to do with Thingiverse being offline all day. Seems to work now as usual.

New sith 4 worked fine, thanks again for updating

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

No problem at all and thanks for correcting so quickly. I am going to print now so should know in about an hour how it works out.

I am assuming the blade file is identical to the other saber?

Similar diameter but shorter so it does not stick out the top.

Wow! Nice job on the Vader Hilt! I just logged in to post my own Vader remix of the Luke saber when I saw you had beaten me to it! Mine was really just a project to help me learn Tinkercad and really the first thing I ever designed. Yours has a lot more detail, though. Like the belt hook and knobs. I just used semi-spheres for those as I was unsure how it would print. Good job, I love it!

Edit: I added a 4mm hole to the cap on both Luke & Vader designs because it felt like whipping out the blade was causing some air pressure inside that prevented the blade from fully extending. With the hole, the blade extends very nicely with little wrist action.

Nice!!! Looks like we had the same idea. The trick with the knobs was to keep the overhang short. I would have liked to make the knobs much higher but then they would not have printed very good. Plus the chamfer on top makes them seem higher. The knurling around the outside blends in well with the poor looking overhang as well. My favorite part was latch on the side of the buttons. I don't know what that is called but I was surprised that I found a way to print that.

I did not notice any trapped air, I must have had more clearance between the blade segments.

How resistant are they? I wish I could use them to fight e against my girlfriend, obviously without too much Force.

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They are ok for light play but based on feedback from others people are breaking them.

Did you use a brim to print the hilt? I wonder if it will stick to the heat bed because the touching surface is relatively small.

I find the lack of faith in your bed adhesion disturbing. :-)

Gargl (gasping for air) ;-)

I'll give it a try.

lol! A brim would not hurt anything, just a little extra cleanup.

These are all great designs. Could you do a lot of us a solid and make a scaled down version of the blades that will work in the sword, but can be printed on printers that have an x axis of <180mm. I78mm would be awesome!

Do you mean z-axis? You wont have a problem if you just scale down only the z-axis, the clearances and wall thickness should stay the same.

Sorry. I meant Z. Thanks for the tip. Originally I cut the print at 178mm and it slid right out of the body. I'll scale the Z down and try that.

I don't see why it would not work but I have not tired it. It still looks good scaled down, I just look at it.

Dude these are SO cool!!!
keep up on the Fantastic job! =D

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Jessy beat me to it, exact same situation though! I figured this one would be coming down the pike eventually :D Thanks again, my daughter wanted red to combat her little brother's green :)

Perfect timing. Already have black loaded on 1 printer and red on another printer... time to fire this up!

Awesome, perfect timing!