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FlyByTom

MK3S Prusa Super Cover Remix - Centered and Tweaked

by FlyByTom Jun 9, 2019
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I love this design (v7) so far, got it to work with my raspberry Pi 4. Cable management is still an issue for me, thinking of how to do this better - I'm not very handy with wires so the making your own wire thing is daunting.

One problem I can see with this design though is that there's no support for the display other than the four screws that connect it to the frame. When I touch my resistive screen, I can see the whole console flex downwards. Looking at it from below, I can see nothing is actually touching the table. Is it possible to add some sort of support to the bottom while still leaving room for the raspberry pi 4's obnoxious usb c cable?

Thanks! Happy to hear its working out!

Regarding cable management, the ethernet cable spliced into the ribbon cable seems daunting but no so bad once you get into it. You can also get multiple ribbons cables and string the together if the whole ethernet splice thing is scaring you off.

Regarding the display hovering off the bench, that was done intentionally. Printers sit at a lot of different heights due to individual setup and feet choice. For example I have some sorbothane feet on my printer which have cut down a bunch on noise and raises up my printer 1/2" or so from stock.

There is a front cable cover in the remix section that Acorderob posted. That might be enough to support that panel and cover the cable.

Good luck and happy printing!

Are there screen cover designs available for the cut outs on this model? I made this and assumed the one I have (that fits stock) would fit, but it didn't. I'm also looking for a cover for the pi screen cut out. Thx!

Hi! Check the remix section, there is a set of covers there. Enjoy!

PLEASE HELP!!!

Hello I have a raspberry pi 3b + and a raspberry 4b + 4gb and I have a hyperpixel 4.0 screen.
And a prusa mk3s.

Now I have a problem I have been working on it for almost 3 months.

Get m talking but then the touchscreen works but not as it should.

Now I want touch ui or anything like octodash on it with touchscreen I think until I overlook something.

just give some info and sites for more info

Thanks in advance

Ps have already checked all websites but do not know which order.

Gr nick grafix tattoo / nick Op De Beke.

Hi! Unfortunately I can't help you with that. Getting my Pi up and running took a while as well and I still haven't tackled my issues with touch orientation being off from display. Decided it's good enough and living with it.

Hope someone else will comment with a solution. There is another one of these covers made for the hyperpixel, they might be able to help you out there.

I got the touch orientation fixed last night for the adafruit 3.5. I had to do this:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Rotate-Raspberry-Pi-Display-and-Touchscreen/

Hello, have you a version for the bear frame ?
Thank you in advance

Hi! I do not but I would have happy to share the .STL files if you would like to modify them yourself.

What is the angle of tilt on v6 compared to the original stock display? Are there any other differences between v6 and v7 other than the tilt?

If I print the closed end version where do you recommend placing the raspberry pi?

There are a lot of options out there for Prusa Pi cases. I put mine in a customized EINSY case and that has worked out great. Haven’t posted it but might do this weekend.

To connect them I bought a header extension cable and then modified it by splicing in an Ethernet cable to cut down on bulk and extend it further. That worked out great and could have been accomplished without the header cable by just soldering straight to the individual pins used.

If I use the TFT screen as a HAT on the PI, there is enough room for the PI behind this cover? I then need to route power to the Pi and USB to the printer controller, right?

Hi! Yes there is enough room. Use the open ended version and you will have to power the PI and USB for printer controller. Enjoy!

Thank you for the confirmation.

Can you share the object files? I'd like to make a minor tweak so I can mount this outside of my enclosure using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3098607. I just need to extend the "mount fingers" to be a bit longer.

Prusa i3 MK3 - Ikea Lack - Modifications
by lexos

Updated the project files to include two STEP files, one with the end capped and the other uncapped. Happy remixing!

Comments deleted.

I had the same issue with the display initially. I fiddled with the calibration settings numerous times and nothing worked. In the end, I reran the install script for the TFT and chose the 3rd rotation option (270 degrees - instead of 90 degrees) and it works great now. Hope this helps.

Awesome I'll give that a try, thanks!!

Just FYI, I printed out your design (I added a small item on the side to attach an articulating camera from another Thingiverse project), but I noticed the screen doesn't align well if it is rotated 270, so I investigated more and found that changing the orientation back to 90 and adding the following worked for me (keep in mind, I'm using Octoprint-TFT to display and not TouchUI - not sure that is material but that may influence things. The 270 degree rotation solution I was able to confirm with normal desktop mode that it worked well - I've only tested this solution with Octoprint-TFT).

Create directory /etc/X11/xorg.conf.d and file 99-calibration.conf in that directory
Add the following into the file:

Section "InputClass"
Identifier "calibration"
MatchProduct "PiTFT Touchscreen"
Option "Calibration" "3853 170 288 3796"
Option "SwapAxes" "1"
Option "InvertY" "true"
Option "InvertX" "true"
EndSection

Thanks for the update! I still haven't had a chance to tackle the screen issue but hope to over the next two weeks. I'll have to give Octoprint TFT a shot. Again, thank you for commenting with an updated solution, I appreciate it!

Hello Thanx for this Good Job :)

How do you keep the raspberry in case ? Mine falled

Hi and thanks!

Do you mean how do I keep my PI in a remote case away from the cover? I found a GPIO extension cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GTJF7N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and used that to mount the pi somewhere else. I'm thinking of building a custom cable (with 3d printer header of course) since not all those cables are necessary and it would make it easier to hide the cable. Be careful with cable seating and orientation, I fried a Pi accidentally.

That cable is only 8" long. Where did you manage to put the PI where it's only 8" away?

I started with that cable and then realized I didn't need most of the wires and I wanted it longer. An ethernet cable has enough strands for all of the required i/o for the touchscreen so I used that spliced into the original cables connectors at each end for easy disconnect.

That's the slicer I use as well. Rotate about 45 degrees until the model turns green again and then hit "arrange" for good measure and you should be good to go.

Sure enough that worked just fine. I had originally tried that but i had also been moving the model around slightly before rotating. A fresh load of the model and simple rotate worked just fine. Thanks.

Glad I could help and let me know how the print turns out.

Just posted a make. It turned out great. Good job on the modeling. Everything is a nice fit.
Some improvements:
The original Prusa Screen case and nut captures in the small square nut slots, maybe add these to your model?
When orienting the pi and screen with usb power in, down, to allow the usb ports to be accessible on the right, the usb power in will hit the flat of the table possible causing damage to the Pi's USB power in port if you are not careful. Simple fix is to slide the whole printer forward until the the usb port is coming out over the edge of the table with out obstruction. The printer feet are well with in the surface of the table still so this is not a big deal unless your printer is in an enclosure with a door. Another fix may be some right angle adapters but this is untested on my end as of yet. Just something to look out for.

Updated the design to v7 in response to your feedback. There is now a 10 degree up-tilt on the mounts compared to v6. That should solve the clearance issue. I'm considering a mount option that would allow variable tilt but not there yet.

Thanks for posting your make and for the notes! I'll have a look a the square nut slots and I'll make an adjustment to the legs to tilt up an extra 5 degrees which should give you the clearance you need. I have sorbothane dampeners under my printer so it sits a bit higher and clearance wasn't an issue. Will post when I get a chance to update the model.

PrusaSlicer is showing this stl out of the print area for a MK3S. What slicer did you use to print this on your MK3?

You must turn like this

Thanks for the pic! Will add to images for this project.