This is a sleek magnetic paddle shifter mod for the Logitech G (29,27 and 25) series wheels that has adjustable levers to tune out or add whatever delay between mag release and actual shifting.
There is a second lever that angles the magnet and allows a better contact area with the paddle. I have not used it yet because the current one is plenty strong and the angled one would probably be much stronger, but if that's your thing, give it a go, swapping them out should be fairly easy :)
4x M5 34mm low profile
2x M5 10mm low profile
2x 12mm x 3mm magnets
Optional: M5 brass inserts
Print settings shouldn't matter much as long as you have at least 2 shells and no less than 30% infill. If you don't get great overhangs, you can put some supports inside the small M5 captive slot.
Because the M5 holes are sized to be threaded into, you will need to drill out the pivot holes on each lever as well as the long M5 holes on each hole for ONLY 1 of the 2 ring halves. The other is needed to thread into for joining the two halves. If you prefer, you can use brass inserts for joining the two halves, in which case, drill away. The only hole you DON'T ever drill is on the levers where the captive bolt will thread into.
On each lever dab some glue into the magnet holes and insert magnets, using enough glue to ensure the little bastard won't come out.
It is also probably a good idea to pre-fit the 10mm M5 bolts into both halves of the ring to ensure a proper fit during assembly. If they are giving you any shit, heat them up a little and press both halves together, trying to keep the bolt squarely aligned in the hole.
1) Insert the two 10mm M5 captive bolts into the lower half of the ring and line the ring up under the wheel, this will be whichever half you did not pre-drill/has brass inserts.
2) Insert two M5 bolts into the outer holes of the upper half and lower into place. Tighten these bolts most of the way, but leave a 1mm or so gap between the halves for now.
3) Rotate the frame so the lever cavity is accessible through the top opening and insert one of the levers into the cavity while turning the captive screw in the back until the pivot holes on the lever and frame are aligned. Insert the pivot bolt and tighten down the same amount as the last two, so that the frame can be rotated. Repeat this step for the second lever.
4) Once both levers are installed, rotate the frame into position, lining it up with the paddles and tightening down all of the long M5 bolts until the gaps between the two ring halves are gone.
5) Depending on your preference, tighten the captive bolt from the back until your paddles feel the way you prefer, then repeat for the other side, unless you like unsymmetry, then you do you.
Note: If you want absolute minimal paddle travel and have a desire to exercise your fingers, try the angled lever. The regular lever has a minimal contact area with the paddles while in this position (pictured above) and while it has a strong release force, it could probably be stronger. If that is what you prefer, go with the angled and it should do just that.