Saves time, space and helps dry filament
This vs single stack Prusa Enclosure V2. I really like the Prusa V2 enclosure. I really do. But this offers a few advantages...
Saves Space: The universal auto spool rewinder saves a TON of space because I don't need the MMU filament buffer. You can still use the top of the enclosure as storage.
Saves time: The filament buffer is so slow to load and setup. It takes a while to load the filament into the two PTFE tubes then feed through one inch at a time. These auto rewinders are a lot faster to load up and feed filament into the MMU.
Heat is contained: Since the enclosure keeps most of the heat in. That heat is used to dry out the spools inside the enclosure. So if you are printing with one or two filaments you can simply hang up a few more and let them bask in the heat for a while.
Filament spools are also shielded from dust.
Why build ANY Enclosure for your Printer?
An enclosed environment makes printing a lot more stable. Cold air drafts can be generated by windows, doors, Central heating or air, a body walking by or even from you breathing as you watch the amazing machine in action. Drafts can cause temperature fluctuations that lead to cracks in your print, poor layer adhesion (de-lamination) or worst case detaching from the print bed. An enclosure will keep a stable temperature around the printer to ensure reliable operation. This is ESSENTIAL if you print with materials that expand with heat and contract when cooled like ABS and Nylon
Odors and most fumes will be contained during the print. https://www.dezeen.com/2016/02/16/health-study-reveals-harmful-toxic-effects-hazards-3d-printing-illinois-institute-technology/
Dust reduction on the print bed and the spools.
It looks nice and keeps everything in place. A printer in a house can become an eye sore with filaments, boxes, tools, PTFE tubes and wires all over the place.
This can also help reduce the sounds and noises coming from your printer.
Let's face it. The REAL reason you want to build this is for the bragging rights.
Notable Updates to this thing or the Instructions
7/10/2019: I put this one in my basement and added the plexi-glass. But the plexi I used was 9 years old and the film didn't come off cleanly. So my pictures look horrible. I added LED lights as you can see in this thing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3739946
6/27/2019: Uploaded more pictures and instructions. Still don't have my plexi glass yet.
6/24/2019: First set of instructions, pictures and print files (Version 2.1) are posted. I am still printing all the parts I need so I don't have pictures of the final product yet. Please be patient.
Non Printable Parts
Most of these parts were designed by and uploaded by strita. Source: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3673-mmu2s-enclosure
1X set of hinges:
3X corner sets: You will need to print three sets of corners but you get to choose how many of each set you want. The difference is one set has the hole and guide for the power cable. So most of you will want to print one set with the cable guide and two sets without.
NOTE: I could use some help here. Turns out that we need to bore out the hole a little more for the corners that will be used on top. I had to bore them out with a 9/32 inch drill bit. If someone can modify the stl Mesh files for me I would be very grateful. I know CAD a lot better than mesh mixer.
I "may" eventually want to run more wires into my enclosure for LED lights etc. So I will print three sets with the cable guide. Two for the bottom back corners and one for the top back right.
For the Spool holders and Rewinders
5x copies of the Universal Rewinder without the stand.
5 copies of this spool hanger
Support in the hing areas only.
PETG (PLA is too brittle for the hinges and magnets. [My Opinion])
2 perimeters around the rear corner pieces
4 perimeters around the front corners and hinges.
I strongly suggest you use my 3MF files to slice from if you are running the Prusa Slicer. I have all the settings and support enforcers setup already.
All printed parts (except one set of corner pieces)
Identify Hinge Types
You will end up with 3 sets of working hinges. Bottom, middle and top sets. Start by identifying the 3 different types of hinges.
The bottom hinges will have a long solid flat bottom with the slots for the magnets facing up.
The Top hinges will have a slot for the magnets on the same side as the Long flat bottom.
The Middle hinges are printed in two pieces that come together to form a single hinge.
Top & Bottom Hinge to Corner Assembly
Assemble the Bottom hinges first. Press the hinge into the corner piece. There are left and right hinges that should match the left and right corner pieces. Make sure you use the correct pieces as shown in the picture. Use a 3M x 30mm screw to hold it all together. Drive the screw into the plastic slightly and the threads will hold it into place.(Do not over tighten and strip the threads.)
Now assemble the Top hinges the same way.
(Optional) You may add magnets to these sets if you choose. I only added magnets to the middle sets on mine.
Middle Hinge to Corner Assembly
Insert a magnet into one side of the middle hinge. Then press the second half of the hinge together so the magnet is completely encased. Then fit the assembled hinge into the corner piece. Use a 3M x 30 mm screw to hold the hinge into place. Insert the screw from the bottom like before. Now insert another magnet into the corner piece. Make sure the two magnets attract each other.
Attach the bottom corners to the lower table top
Place the four bottom corners on top of the lower Ikea LACK table top. Please note that all four corners have small tabs to help you line them up with the corner of the table top for proper placement. As shown in the next picture. The right rear corner should have the large hole intended for the power cord. (Optional both rear corners could have the large cable guide holes.)
When you are sure you have the correct pieces in the correct corners you can drive a long screw into the center hole to lock it into place.
Lower leg assembly
Place a leg on top of the corner pieces with the large screw guide hole pointing down (this hole is probably too wide for your screws to work in it so we hide them). Drive some pan head or hex head screws through the side of the corner piece into the side of the leg.
Lower Legs with screw guide hole pointing down.
Lower Legs assembled
Trim off the Spacers. The Middle set of corners do not need them.
Attach the Middle set of Corners
Then take the middle corner pieces and screw them into place on top of the legs using long screws. I used drywall screws.
Upper half assembly
Use the double threaded screws that came with the Ikea LACK table. Slip a screw spacer onto the screw then use pliers to drive the screw into the top of a loose table leg. Now slip a corner piece onto the top of the table leg with the screw sticking out the end.
DO NOT DRIVE screws into the side of the legs yet. Wait until the next step is complete.
Attach the corner pieces to the top legs.
RAN INTO A PROBLEM
Turns out you need to drill out the holes on these in order to slide them into place. My bad. I will make a note of it earlier on in the instructions and try to get the mesh files updated. I used a 9/32 drill bit to widen these holes.
Twist the entire leg assembly to drive the screw into the bottom of the table. As you drive the large leg screw into place it will snug up to the table at some point. It may become apparent that the corner piece needs to be re-positioned. If this is the case then you will need to remove the leg and re position the corner piece before reattaching the leg. Repeat this step for the other legs.
When all four legs are in place and the corner pieces are pointed the correct direction. Then you can drive screws into the sides of the legs to fasten them to the corner pieces.
Legs Fastened into place with screws
The upper and lower halves of the new enclosure
Before you insert the Plexi Glass... Place the top table so its legs rest inside the notches of the middle corner pieces.
Now you Insert the three large Plexi Glass panels for the side and back walls. The plexi glass is flexible and can be slightly bent into position. Start by sliding down through the middle notches first then into the bottom notches. Since the top table is not fastened into place it should be easy to get the top corners of the plexi glass into the Notches by slightly lifting the top table.
Now drive screws through the holes in the middle corner sets into the legs to fasten them into place.
The plexi glass for the doors should simply slide into the hinges.
Final step for the enclosure. Feed the power cable through the hole in the bottom rear corner. Then use the guide piece. Fold it around the cable and slide it into the hole to lock the cable in.
Not going into great detail
Added Plexi Glass and LED lights.
... please click the like or collect buttons. If you love this design please consider tipping the designer.