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John_Sinclair

Raspberry Pi 4 case (40mm fan)

by John_Sinclair Jul 1, 2019
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I did this in ABS with a 0,6 nozzle (possibly not too callibrated).
Tights press fit works ok however the "legs" between USB & ethernet broke after the first removal.

Anyone have a picture of what you used to screw the Pi and case together? Maybe I am missing something simple but I don't see how its supposed to work screwing from both sides and the printed standoffs are short. Great looking case and smart thinking using the infill for the venting.

As above, print with no top or bottom layers (leaving infill visible) and a hexagonal / triangular infill pattern depending on what you want

How can I do it because I don't know where to look.

ok. I've already done it

Thanks for sharing your design and data, it is very helpful.

How do I tell Cura to not use top and bottom layers?

I'd like to second the request for the Pi Camera and LCD Screen cutouts. Would you mind adding this feature? I'm not sure how spacing would go for a 40 vs 30 though.

Had a few of requests for the same so made one up :)

My pi 4 doesn't fit flush into the bottom -- I think it's because components and solder pins are in constant contact with the bottoms print surface.

Could we get a version where the standoffs protrude beyond the lower half surface?

What I mean is that, you have indentations in the lower half for the headers, but there's components soldered on the underside of the board that also protrude that much. The board wobbles.

Between that issue, the screw holes being a size I don't have anything to fit, and the upper standoffs not holding the board snugly, I'm giving up on this one until there's some revisions.

I found that the old 4-40 3/8" length screw, with care, will self thread the holes in the Pi 4.
I feed the screw through the bottom and get screw to start and then carefully screw into
the board. Wish the Pi 4 and every one would settle on M3 as a standard and the whole
world will follow along. Just a suggestion. I'm not responsible for your breaking your
board, so use care or use a tap to thread the board if you have a tap for 4-40 or M3 threads.

The top snap fits into the bottom, so no screws needed to hold the top onto the bottom.
Using Creality Ender3 for printing.

Being new to 3D, I'm trying to figure, if using Cura4.1, out the terms remove top and bottom
and perimeter=3 settings or do I have to go back to a modeling app? I want to get more
ventilation. The benchmark from haydes runs at 50 deg C. My own temp enclosure, if
I can attache it, ran at 40 deg C with 30mm fan. Too noisy for me so going to quiet 40mm
fan. With the solid model of the case, the bottom gets hot and I want to bleed off that heat
also.

I'm using the regular generic heat sinks that come in groups of 3 for all the Pi models.
The uP heat sink is just about centered with the fan in this case and I do believe if
the fan is moved in either direction about a cm in the long direction, the addition
air movement over the heat sink will decrease the heat significantly. IMHO.

What is a good heatsink that will fit with the regular Pi_Case_Upper.stl? I already have some but I think mine are a tad too tall. I know I could print the tall version, but I don't want the case to end up larger if it's not necessary.

To answer my own question, I found these heatsinks are sufficiently short for Pi_Case_Upper.stl, and it still keeps core temp at 55c with a 40x10mm noctua fan under my specific workload at full throttle while being practically silent:

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KKY3KI
Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-12x14mm-Pure-Copper-RAM-Heat-Sink-Cooling-Fin-Heatsink-For-Video-Card-CPU/303171647213?hash=item46967036ed:g:qQ4AAOSwxGNc748G

Hi

Old guy new to 3D printing. downloaded files took them to my local library which offers a 3D printing service. When printed top and bottom came out solid no diamond grid. What am I missing to tell girl who sets up print run re settings? I understand that grid is infill, and there are top and bottom layers, but these are not printed, but this print run seems to print them?

Other things of note: recess in base near usb and etho port for though pin of connectors, my rear connector usb pins are hitting un recessed base, recess could be say 3mm wider. (should base have raised (say 2mm) standoffs around holes or not?)

As commented before the sd card finger nail cut out could be larger.

Also corner by etho port not quiet fitting, I have looked and looked with magnifying, and can not determine why.

Love the case anyway, but would like to sort out grid for air flow. Cheers

Have informed printer (girl at library) to configure print job for 3 perimeters & No Top or bottom layers to leave infill visible. Is there a % for the infill?

Yeah I get there eventually, always read carefully, never rush in. Infill 35% Hexagonal. Hey am a 3D print virgin.

Hi, Glad you got there eventually, as a few people have mentioned it I've included a file with a bigger cutout for the SD card, think my pi3 has gone about about 3 years without me ever taking the SD card out so it want much of a concern :)

One thing not sure on, my library uses a Ultimate 2+ with Cura. Under Shell it has Wall Thickness in mm, and this is related to Wall line count. Does Perimeter 3 refer to 3mm Wall thickness which results in a 9 wall line counter, or does perimeters 3 refer to 3 wall line count, which is a wall thickness of 1.05mm (I think this is cura's default setting).

I suspect 3 is the wall line count!

Yep, quite right, 3 is the wall count. I've been printing with a 0.4mm nozzle so for me 3 perimeters gives a wall thickness of 1.2mm. Anything 0.5mm - 1.25 mm should be fine I'd imagine, will just affect the strength of the part. Anything above 1.25mm won't matter as the walls are only 2.5mm thick total (inner wall + outer wall).

I was wondering if you have the 3d model of only the raspberry pi. If you do, please post a 3d model of it.If you don't, can you explain how you got the measurements right or point me in the way of a model. Thanks!

No model, measurements done using a pi4 and a pair of digital callipers.

Great design, thanks for sharing! =)
One suggestion, though: Wouldn´t it be eaisier, if the four poles in the upper half of the casing would be higher, so that they directly support the Pi board without the need for spacers / standoffs?
Or am I just missing something?

Nice design man. I really wish you had a cutouts for the camera slot and LCD though

Oh man this is the perfect pi 4 case. All that air flow plus a fan mount. I'm holding off on the pi 4 until the retropie guys come out with a version for it but I'll definitely be using this case when I do.

Made this. Any errors are probably my fault. Should have used supports. Lost a part of the column near the ethernet port and the side vents might have looked better. Still have to order fan so not sure of the fit on that. This is the 30mm top. Snaps together well, don't even really need screws.

Only suggestion would be to make the round cut out a little bigger. Hard to get the sd card out now.

Nice print, just looks like your retraction settings need a tweak. Have uploaded a version with the bigger SD cutout if you wanted to swap.

Should fit the 30mm to version fine

Hi! Thank you for your work. I have the following problem:

I can't close the case, since the side with the USB/Ethernet ports is not "flush" with the bottom. It seems your cutout is too small for my board version.

Update: It seems that my second comment is actually the solution. Once I clipped away some plastic for the 3.5mm jack, the case closes now.
I attached a photo to illustrate the problem.

Oh, and I just saw this:

It seem that the "tall" version of the top is missing the cutout for the 3.5mm jack.

Oh and one question: Are the round standoffs supposed of different size?

Attached a screenshot.

Good spot, have just uploaded one with the 3.5mm cutout back where it should be. If im honest i hadn't though much about the stand off height, easily changed, but can just vary the screw length to fit.

Thank you for the update. I will print it and will test if it fits.

Edit: Print looks fine now. Case fits. I only need to find some fitting screws now...

Just wanted to second these comments.
I printed the tall version and couldn't fit the two pieces together. Will chop a piece out for the 3.5mm jack.

Also the cutouts for the ethernet port are too far away from the edge for my pi 4. It's about 1-2mm too far away from the edge. I had to chop a small bit off the ethernet edge closest the outer case edge (circled on my image).

Updated the tall lid with the 3.5mm cutout back where it should be.

Cool, thanks.
Anything you can do with the ethernet port cutout?
I've cut bits out of mine so don't need to re-print, but might save others doing it.
Happy to take any measurements you might need.

Reluctant to change as they seem to print fine on all 3 of my printers (have printed & sold >50 of these so far), but ive attached the STLs with an extra 1mm port clearance for you here.

Thank you. It's definitely an odd one. It fits the USB ports perfectly, and with the pi sat in the bottom half comfortably. I'll measure up distances between ports tonight to compare to the stl to see if it's my print, or if my Pi is different for some reason.

Beautiful work!
Is this made for a 40x10mm fan?

Can you make this taller to fit a taller heatsink under the fan? My heatink is approximately 16mm tall, and I can't fit it alone, let alone with a fan + heatsink.

Edit: Nevermind I see you create the ventilation holes by not printing bottom and top layers to expose the hex infill pattern. Clever! But should make that more obvious in description!

STL models are different from photos.. think you didn't upload everything?

How do you make the holes? The published pieces are solid.

Printed with 3 perimeters & No Top or bottom layers to leave infill visible.

Thanks, it's a great idea to make lattice.

Loving how fast the apple-esque vent design has appeared in designs. Love this — looks fantastic.

What are the key differences between a Pi3 and a Pi4 case? Would it be simple to modify this for a 3 or slightly more involved?

As the creator noted, they are using 2 mini hdmi, but without cutting it, a pi 3 wont work, they also changed the layout of the USB and Ethernet ports on the end, and it uses a USB type C for charging instead of micro usb,

Main difference in 2x mini HDMI rather than 1 full size, case just has a slot where the display & power in ports are so there's a good chance it'd fit a Pi3 okay, unfortunately don't have one to hand to test.

Nice, any chance you could make a 30mm fan cover too?

Yay thanks! Printer's busy with something else, but that goes next :)