* DO NOT PRINT ***
This as been superseded by http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:374717 The new design reduces the parts and make NO MODIFICATIONS to the original TAZ parts and is a direct mechanical replacement for the budaschnozzle 2.0.
Had a new E3Dv6 I bought for another machine I have been working when a 17h30m PLA print job failed at 17h20m and ruined the print. Here is my resulting adaptation. the extruder mount and jonaskuehling_gregs-wade files are modified versions of these http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/3.1/ files.
The E3D hotend I had is a bowden 3.00mm version. It didn't come with enouth 6x3mm tubing to mount my drive outside comfortably. So I modified the direct drive to accept the bowden tube all the way to the hobbed bolt. I thickened the floor of the extruder mount and cut a pocket to hold the hotend with room for the bowden fitting.
The result is a fully supported filiment from the gear tp the hot zone and 300c limit now.
1 - E3Dv6 3.00 mm bowden hotend kit
6 - 3mm heat inserts
2 - m3-16 socket head bolts
2 - m3 washers
1 - Jonaskuehling-Gregs-Wade extruder (or parts for 1)
1 of each of the 3 parts printed.
Clean the supports from the extruder body. should clean up easily.
Insert heat inserts in all the current places your old extruder mount has and 2 more added for the clamp.
Assemble the hotend and attach it to the extruder mount with the clamp and 2 m3-16 socket bolts and washers.
Attach the tube to the hotend and make sure it is seated all the way in. now thread tube through the extruder body and slide the body down until it is flush with the hotend.
Mark the tube length to cut just below the hobbed bolt.
slide the extruder body out of the way and cut the tubing at you mark with a razor blade or sharp knife. Get a nice square cut.
Now transfer the other parts from your old extruder body to the new one.
replace the extruder mount on your printer and happy printing.