Hero Me Remix 2 with Robust Assembly & Extended Wire Management

by BoothyBoothy Jul 13, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

This is very similar, your wire management is incredibly awesome.

Hero Me Gen 3 E3D V6 - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

Hi Hookuum, I am aware of Mediaman`s remix, my remix was part based on it, I have not the time or the will to surf through all the variations\comments\remix\things of that extensive remix, I need more specific\direct detail\info to consider a variation. I need to know what is different to the stock assembly and why.



Hero Me Gen 3 E3D V6 - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

This really looks fantastic, I'm always looking for a better setup for my cr10s with ezabl but I run a e3d v6, any in the works for a v6?
It's tempting to go back too stock though.

Hi, no immediate intention, to be honest I do not know what a V6 variant would entail, any clues or reference in comparison to stock ?

Best Boothy

The base lock model file for the Ender-5 seems to be missing. Should the original from the Hero Me Gen3 be used?

Hi, yes the original base lock seems to be OK on my Ender 5, you may have to shave a little dependent on the placement of the belt retention. Or use the original Hero Me Ender 5 version which will be compatible. Best Boothy

Hi there, would you be willing to share your Fusion files for this please? I'd like to remix it to work with the Flex3Drive remote direct extruder.
Thanks :)

I have uploaded a fusion file for the Base unit for remixing. I am not sure if you would be better off with the version I did for a Direct Drive Upgrade Kit though. Best Boothy


Ender 3 CR10S Hero Me Remix 3 For Basaraba Direct Drive Upgrade

Hi, yes no problem I just need to tidy them up first. I will let you know when uploaded.

Thanks for sharing this remix, I like it a lot!

If I want to mount this on an Ender-5 with Noctua 40x20mm fan and dual blowers/ducts. How many screws of which type do I need exactly? Seems like I need two for the locking plate. Four for the fan and two more for the blowers. Are they all M3? What about length?

Hi, Screws are listed in description, Item 5 in the thing description lists the additional screw required for the top of the base plate for the Ender 5. I do not know about your Noctua fans screw length, I have never used that size, the holes for the Hot End fan accept M3. Best Boothy

According to the description, I need 4x M3 x 10mm screws to attach the ducts to the base. What about the two screws used to attach the base to the printer's X gantry (the ones placed diagonally, used to attach the stock fan assembly)?

Also, I'm not really sure what Item 5 refers to: on my Ender-5 there aren't any other screw holes other than the ones to attach the stock assembly. There is however a vertical slit or opening which through which a part of the stock assembly leans in.

In any case, I feel all of this could be made a lot clearer with pictures.

Dear Lavamind, I do this as a hobby, I design things for myself and then share for those that want to tinker, investigate and be technically challenged. I do not see this as a holistic community product design service. I am sorry you do not feel that the time I spend uploading descriptions\images\things are sufficient for your needs. For the time it takes it may be worth printing the base thing and working some things out for yourself. Best Boothy

Hi Boothy, apologies if I came across as demanding or unsatisfied with your efforts: that isn't the case at all! Although I'm realtively new here I do fully understand the volunteer nature of this community and was only sharing ideas in the spirit of open design and improvement.

Just for the record I did print both ducts, wireguards and base. I simply don't have a wide assortment of metric bolts to test with at the moment, and my local hardware will only sell such screws in packs of 20-30.

When I figure it all out I'll be sure to share my findings in the hopes that you might find some time eventually to integrate these into the installation notes for the benefit of other Ender-5 users.

Hi Lavamind, thank you for you response and I appreciate your sentiments.

Yes an assortment of metric bolts, particularly M4 & M3 are essential. Cannot play with these things without buckets of nuts and bolts - you will soon go through a pack of 30 !.

I do make efforts wherever possible to make thing as clear as possible but with a very busy design day job I sometimes simply do not have the time and if I waited many of the things I have uploaded just would not see the light of day.

I did provide some in depth installation instructions on the Direct Drive version of this thing but it took an unequal amount of time to compile(see link below).

As this was a remix of a very well documented thing I did not think that necessary, there are extensive comments in the original thing and other remixes covering a lot of these issues. I will make endeavours to fill out the description when I have a moment but with the amount of potential variations to this thing I could be there for weeks illustrating the assemblies.

Yes you use the slot at the back of the Ender 5 mounting plate to fix through to the Base thing from the back. One single m3 x 10mm at the top is sufficient. All holes are basically 2.7mm diameter unthreaded pilot holes so therefore all M3 but you need basically to sizes 6mm &10mm.

Best Boothy


Ender 3 CR10S Hero Me Remix 3 For Basaraba Direct Drive Upgrade
Comments deleted.

OK, I love this.
The way all the cables are hidden is genius.

As an Ender-5 user though I have one request.
Will the thing below fit your base or can be made to fit ?

Ender 5 - Hero Me 5015 EZABL-Left Side
by kmxs

Hi. May be crossed wires here, do you mean the levelling sensor or the duct in the thing link? With respect to the duct I do not think its worth producing a duct with a single fan as the flow route (no expert here) to the non fan side is quite torturous and may be slightly more effective than the stock arrangement but not a massive difference.Certainly the cooling will never be balanced The cross over type duct will also require supports making printing messy and will heavily reduce visibility to the nozzle (which are both important to the design in my book) . The stock assembly generally is quite good. I did consider this as an option but to be honest its not something I would be interested pursuing further due to its obvious limitations. Comments about the EZBL bracket below. Best Boothy

Hi, if you look at the comments immediately below , I have recently uploaded a mounting bracket for both this and the Direct drive version. Someone has recently made a make of it here:
I suspect that for the Ender 5 it may need to be handed to clear the edge of the x carriage assembly at the rear of the mount. I do not use any form of levelling sensor although I own an Ender 5 I cannot confirm if it will clear at this time. I may try and print it later. If you print the revised LH duct with the holes mounts and try the support bracket for clearance, if there is an issue I can upload the other hand. Best Boothy

Ender 3 CR10S Hero Me Remix 3 For Basaraba Direct Drive Upgrade
by jnyl42

Yeh the issue really is the probe slamming into the x-carriage.
I've modified the left duct and directly attached the probe mount and moved it forward to hopefully clear it.
Printing now so fingers crossed.

Good to hear you are on top of it, let me know if I can help. best Boothy

And problem solved :)
I've added my remixed left duct here for anyone that needs it.

Hero Me Remix 2 - Ender-5 EZABL
by venares

Well Done, I am glad you sorted it out. Best Boothy

Hey, would you mind making an EZABL version of bltouch_fix_plate_v2? Just the same thing, with an 18mm hole?

Update:16_08_19 B
EZABLTouch Plate_V1 incorrect hand - have uploaded EZABLTouch Plate_V2

Hi jny142, I have just uploaded a mount plate with a 18mm diameter hole has requested to this thing and my remix 3 (for direct drive upgrade). I do not use any sensors so not tested or printed, definitely WIP. Enjoy (hopefully) Boothy

I got it printed and posted a make on the Basaraba version's page. Fits great! Offset is X: -58, Y: -12 for anyone else using it

Hi, yes it looks good, did you have enough adjustment on the height? I only had a old 3D model to go on which appeared to have a continuous thread rather tahn one solely at the bottom of the unit.Therefore to be absolutely honest I perceived the slots fixing the other way up ! But if it works... Best Boothy

Yep the height is fine; the new EZABL Pro is threaded all the way down also, so it's pretty flexible height-wise. The only consideration is a small screw in the side for calibration, which might be blocked if you flipped it the other way around. Thanks again!

Comments deleted.

This looks so nice. I just ordered E3D V6 hotend to upgrade my Ender 5. Do you have a plan to make this to support E3D V6?

Unfortunately not immediately , I prefer to only publish if I can test first, it's less bothersome and more relaxing. I do not own a E3d hotend, I do not know how different the set up is to the stock? Is it just the duct position? I perhaps could see if I can find a 3d model in position on a previous remix. I will investigate but no promises
Best Boothy

Would be awesome if you had a version of the 5015 fan ducts that fit teaching techs remix for the direct drive kit, or if you could remix your base for the kit

Do you mean something like the attached ? Hopefully publish in the next couple of days. Best Boothy

Something like that, the gantry plate in the conversion kit is thicker (3.9mm thick) than the stock one so the right side of the base doesn't fit, I look forward to seeing your design

This is a link to the kit, https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/ender-3-direct-drive-upgrade-kit/

FYI I have uploaded the Ender 3\Pro\CR10S Hero Me Remix 3 For BASARABA Direct Drive Upgrade


Best Boothy

Ender 3 CR10S Hero Me Remix 3 For Basaraba Direct Drive Upgrade

Yes that`s the one I am using, from BASARABA INNOVATIONS USA via Ebay UK. I am just tweaking some of the fan duct details and will have to put together some form of installation instructions. My versions (there are 2 versions with different cable routing options) incorporates the motor spacer within the base unit so there is a sturdy 3 point fix to the mounting plate via the motor and does not rely on the slide slot to the right. Its easier to install and gentler on the heating element wires. Best Boothy

Would you be willing to share the STEP files of the 5015 fan ducts so I can modify them to work with a BLTouch?

Yes bl touch mounted direct to duct would be very nice. I've been trying to figure out where to mount myself.

Nix the need for an additional part to attach (left two screws at angle), just give us built-in holes without need for extra part. Integrate a BLTouch mount in the right 5015 mount, but also move fan in as far as possible to reduce bltouch offset, make height so people have to either print spacers or use washers to fine-tune, don't make adjustable, keep Y axis zero offset if possible, but not at expense of minimum X offset. Don't worry about asymmetry for anything except the exits of the ducts. Also reverse the left side fan so intakes are coming from away from hot-end. Basically the left mount just use your original but update to your v2_3 styles.

Thank you for your suggestions. Boothy

Thank you very much for the remix. Its Fantastic! Love the cable management and the mounting fixes.
Couple of questionsif you dont mind. How do you use the leveler pieces? Sorry still learning!! It seems
when I have the ducts low where they point at the lower part of nozzle I hit the nut on the carriage plate.
If i go up it seems too high. Also there is a few mm difference on the R/L fans from the the base. Makes
it seem off. Was that for cable clearance/air flow? Again thank you so much for your time and design.
Here is a pic of the levelers i printed with your setup.

Your make looks great by the way, well done & thanks for uploading. With reference to your second query, after further thought. Yes I did deliberately move the 5015 fan ducts out by 2mm to allow greater clearance for the right hand fan. I am no expert in fan duct design but due to the intake of the right hand fan being near to the side of the hot end I thought it prudent to give a bit of clearance so the RH fan is not just intaking hot air from around the heat break. Ideally the RH fan should be mounted in the opposite direction so the intake is facing the outside. With the single handed mounting design of the 5015 ducts this clearly would complicate the design and revert back to previous versions (most appear to have the RH fan intaking from the inside like my remix). I spaced off both just simply for symmetry of parts. I may look at this again in the future, I Have no immediate design thoughts on a solution but that does not mean their isn't one. Best Boothy

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I figured out how to use the leveler aid. Makes it so much easier!!
Yeah i figured the design on the right was for air flow. The cable management is great, wish there was a way to hide the
cables on the 5015's! As far as the offset on the R/L maybe just making the left have a little more offset to balance it out,
again that's just for aesthetics and not needed. Then again maybe it would just look like elephant ears! Here's my offset
maybe i did something wrong
and its exaggerated. Thanks BoothyBoothy

I did notice that in your make images you had the cable for the RH fan running to the hotend side of the fan. If you look at my uploaded images I have incorporated a cable hook to the top of the RH Duct to run the cable over the top of the RH fan. Nothing in it really though. Both fan ducts are equal, its probably just the fan making them look unbalanced. I wish there was a easy way of hiding the cables further. I will definitely have a look at this. I am currently looking at a request for the single 4010 fan duct which I think will not be much different to the stock arrangement performance wise but I will look at 5015 duct again given time. Best Boothy

Damn, i didnt even notice that cable hook, another smart touch. I will fix that!
Thanks BoothyBoothy have a great day

Hi Pushing Plastic, FYI I have uploaded a pair of revised 5015 fan ducts - 5015 Ducts V2_2 RH & LH. Rotated fan to improve fan cable management and slightly reduced size of part. Fractionally condensed space between fans. I will upload some torture test images later. Best Boothy

Thanks Boothy, going to print soon. Will let you know how it goes.
they look fantastic. Thank you for doing that so quick. If you need me
to test print anything for you in the future, let me know. Definitely willing
to help out any way i can.

I have uploaded version 2.3 of the 5015 fan with a larger duct flange which holds the fan much firmer.

Thanks have just quickly revised again on the way home today, I have just extended the duct flange to provide a firmer fit. Will upload later if they work OK. Best Boothy

Here it is, fits great. Spacing is way better. Nice and compact clearances all seem perfect.
It just get better!! Thank you again. Without any supports also. NICE!

Glad your pleased, the next version just uploaded is even better ! Best Boothy

You were right! This version is way better. Flange fix works great.
the cable management worked out perfect too, Dont even see the
fan cables. Thanks BoothyBoothy.

Good, I have noticed that the LH duct can conflict with Ender 3 Heat Bed cable retention housing at the extreme rear left. This must be something inherent with the original thing because the duct footprint as only changed slightly. Just be aware of this if printing anything which is placed to the very rear left hand corner. I have just received a second Ender 3 Pro courtesy of Prime Day today so am a little distracted with that at the moment but will keep looking at this in the future. Best Boothy

Thanks for the warning. Have fun with the ender 3 pro!!

Printing it now. using the earlier version!! Will update after.

Hi pushing Plastic, Thanks for the positive comments. The levelling pieces were just simply to push under the ducts on the bed to form a 1 or 2mm spacer so that the ducts would rest on the bed with the nozzle homed on the Z axis to provide a 1mm or 2mm space between the bed and the nozzle. If the mounting assembly is hitting the build plate the ducts probably need lowering by a fixing hole on the base to allow more adjustment. Are you attempting to fix to the top fixing hole ? I usually fix to the second hole down from the top and use the slots adjustment to level. With respect to your second query please see response above Best Boothy

There is a pic of the 4010 dual ender 5 but no model... Did the split design win-out?

Dear LoCoCNC, I have uploaded some Teaching Tech Torture tests of the thing and included to this comment. Generally they have printed well, the overhangs worked great and the bridging is really good. Clearly I still have some slicer settings to sort on the 200% model but I suppose it was not meant to print at that size with a large nozzle. Just for total transparency. I did have repeat failures on the Ender 5. At this moment I really cannot understand why because I used the same filament, same duct,same settings and the same fans but I will attempt to get to the bottom of it. Best Boothy

Hi LoCoCNC,I am currently printing some torture tests so will upload later. The single piece duct on the Ender 5 images was just a comparative test for strength. The design with the cross bar was obviously stronger but the two part design is still sufficiently strong so I have only uploaded the two piece design which provides slightly more nozzle visibility.They are exactly the same duct design accept one has the cross rail. I should have replaced the single piece design before creating the images. I hope that makes sense.

hello author!
just wondering if there's a file for one original ender 3 4010 fan mount because that's all I have at the moment. Thanks!

Hi Evans_Tech. I will have a look at this sometime. I am no expert in fan cooling design but looking at previous versions, I am not sure how effective the single 4010 fan would be in comparison to the stock assembly which does a reasonable job anyway. It will allow the fan to cool both sides of the nozzle but it is quite a torturous route for the air flow from the left hand nozzle. But I will definitely look at this. Best Boothy

hello, I saw your post on the Ender 3 group. I like this design!
I have 2 new 5015 fans I ordered to print something like this! Do you know whats the name of the fan connectors? I want to have the cables with plug in case I need to replace something

I think the generic name is JST, I must admit I just spliced the existing cables with the new fan cables to test my prototypes but you could use something like the following which a lot find useful for similar situations. Previously I have used the second listing and cut the end off the cable. You can buy male and female sets of the 2 pin JST connectors on Amazon just make sure you have the correct size, they can vary.



Best. Boothy

yes thats it, thanks!
you have the 2 24v fans connected directly to the original fan cable right?

Yes but on my CR10S they are 12v The Ender 3, Ender 5 & Ender 3 Pro are 24v but all running off single original feed, at the moment just twisted ends with electricians tape to insulate and retain. I am no electronics expert so I think using the JST connectors is much the better and professionally finished way. I will change my machines accordingly when I have a moment. I was more keen to make sure the parts worked.Just be gentle with the fan wiring. Some of these lost cost fans from China have really delicate soldering.You might find using the JSTs that it is more difficult to run the stock cable shroud back over the connectors. May be best at least to stagger the joints. The slim JST connectors may be better for concealing in the shroud. Good luck

Best Boothy

I have Ender 3 and I did order 24v fans. I'm no electrician either but I do know how to solder and do the job, and I want to do it cleanly :P
I just ordered the two types (normal and the slim) just because of the shroud problem and I will test later what option will be better.
Thanks for the help!

Btw, can you add some tests? like smoke / water / prints... whatever you can =)

For example : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3167063

Cooling fan test torture test

With regards the tests, too be blunt no, Life is too short to be undertaking personal torture test requests. What is the worst case scenario? A dollar of plastic and 5 hours printing ! But in an attempt to help please see the images attached. The first is a 200 % 3D Benchy printed with in PLA with a .8mm nozzle on my CR10S with the 5015 fans. The second 3D Benchy printed in silk PLA on the Ender 3 Pro & Ender 5 (Ender 3 to left & Ender 5 to right). I hope that helps. Best Boothy

its not a case of wasting plastic, its just because we always love to see performance tests :D

Teaching Tech is trying to make a living out of this. To me this is a relaxing hobby. When I have to start justifying my efforts, the relaxation stops.Best Boothy

dont take me wrong, I was just asking out of curiosity. it is a hobby for me too and I do torture test for comparison and to improve performance/quality if I can, nothing related with justifying efforts =)

Dear seltix, another day , another much more positive designer ! I have uploaded some Teaching Tech Torture tests of the thing for your indulgence. Generally they have printed well, the overhangs worked great and the bridging is really good. Clearly I still have some slicer settings to sort on the 200% model but I suppose it was not meant to print at that size with a large nozzle. Just for total transparency. I did have repeat failures on the Ender 5. At this moment I really cannot understand why because I used the same filament, same duct and the same fans but I will attempt to get to the bottom of it. Best Boothy

you do have great results as expected I suppose, even with the 200% scale =D
cant wait for my connectors to arrive so I can install the new fans with your remix

Look forward to seeing the results, please contact if you have any installation issues. Best Boothy

I will do.
I order from ebay so it will take some time to arrive :P

Seltix, FYI I have uploaded a pair of revised 5015 fan ducts - 5015 Ducts V2_2 RH & LH. Rotated fan to improve fan cable management and slightly reduced size of part. Fractionally condensed space between fans. I will upload some torture test images later.Best Boothy

hello :D
nice modification. the fans stay in place only with one screw or you have some type of snap for it?
see, that's the idea of the tests :P to check if we are in the right direction :D

Test results attached . V2_2 5015 ducts on a CR10S, 0.4mm nozzle, 100%. best Boothy

I dont have the previous ones to compare, did you improve it?

Yes for that text not bad I think, no expert. Overhangs work OK bridging good. I may try with switching heated bed off to see if improves. Best Boothy

With bed turn off?? Hummm... interesting question

I think switching off the bed after the first few layers may reduce ambient temp and possibility improve bridging. It's warm in the UK at the moment and I think that the ambient temp may have some neutralising effect on the fan cooling. Again no expert. Away the next few days but may test at the weekend. Do not take my testing banter too seriously. I may also look at increasing the side walls on the new version for a more rigid fit. When I say form I meant to create a new Web on the side panel. Very best Boothy

Yes it's a good thought thinking, nice theory to check out, it makes sense. Let me know your results.
The idea of incrising the side walls is good, not only for more rigit fit, it gives a good visual too.
The web is for the fan part right? Careful, some web styles increase noise

Turning off the Heated bed did not make a difference, the results were virtually identical. I have uploaded version 2.3 of the 5015 fan with a larger duct flange which holds the fan much firmer.

Hello friend,
Do you know what wold be a crazy cool? Using a paltier module to colddown the air flow =D that wold be a crazy project but I'm sure it wold improve greatly the performance =D

They are an interference fit into the duct. To be honest they could probably be a little more snug but I have careful about the massive variance in tolerances over everyone`s printers. The fixing fin could also be slightly more rigid, I may insert an additional web to form up in the future. But at the moment certainly fit for purpose. Sometimes you have to go with your experience and intuition. I still much prefer the satisfaction of creating a good design rather than a good test. Best Boothy

yeah you're right to have the tolerance variance of the printers in mind, that's really a problem for designers :S
a web to form up? what do you mean?

cmon man, if you dont test your creations it wold be like you building a racing car with your hands and dont ride it after! :D

Not quite a perfect analogy, I make them and use them and enjoy using them just do not like testing as part of the hobby. I still test, I would never publish anything without already printing/prototyping. Best Boothy

Please comment way, I am not offended. My primary aim with this remix was more the cable management, improved design engineering and printibility. I was working on the basis that the duct performance was a given.The basic poor approach of Creality to the cable organisation has always been a bugbear with me and I am generally pleased with the results of my remix for both improved engineering and the improved presentation of the assembly. Foremost I like to design, I have a lot of experience and I find Thingiverse cool that I can share my non chargeable\personal endeavours. Performance testing in respect to the Teaching Techs of this world to me is well down the list. Best Boothy