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Hangtight

Creality Bondtech/ V6/ Volcano direct drive 40mm hotend fan

by Hangtight Jul 16, 2019
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Love you design and easy to print. Would it possible to add an endoscope holder like: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3432489 (first picture)

Minimalistic Ender 3 fan mount

Great design, much easier print than I expected.

What would the Y axis offset be with this and a V6 on an Ender 5?

Same as for the Ender 3. While this isn't a direct fit on the Ender 5 carriage, I do know that someone has made it fit with a bit of filing to avoid the belt mount.

It fits with cutting off the cable guide. but I mean what should I set my Y axis offset to in the slicer? This mounts the v6 further to the front of the build plate so do I need to do a positive or negative offset a certain amount of mm?

Thanks for adding the Volcano BLTouch mount. I'm swapping my heat blocks out this weekend so perfect timing. Threw a tip your way as well to say thank you for the great designs you've provided. I've tested most of the Ender and CR10 ones with great success. Keep up the good work.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Any chance you would be willing to remix this to fit the Anet/Prusa style mounting? I'd love to standardize this setup across all my printers. Already working great on my Ender 3 and CR-10S.

If you could find accurate models or details of the mounting I'd be prepared to give it a try.

Looking at it, an interface plate with the bearings and belt anchors on one side and the fixing locations for Creality on the other might be the best bet.

This is what I'm using not on my Anet A8 Plus:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453289

The mounting is accurate as is the belt attachment. However obviously the cooling is sub-par.

E3Dv6 + Bondtech + A8 Carriage + BLtouch + Mistral or double fan

Hi! Could you please make this fan duct compatible with the mirrored version of the bmg extruder?

Also, the lower back mounting screw for the extruder is blocked by the BLTouch mount. It would be very handy to be able to access the screw, maybe through a hole?

Another thing, the two holes in the back of the mounting plate are too small for my Ender 3. They're 5.4 and need to be 5.55.

fits mine perfectly

Creality made a couple updates to the Ender 3 hardware so not all are the same. I fixed this mount with a bit of drilling.

James, have you considered making a mount for a 5020 blower? It should a lot more air for the same noise level?

I did look into it a while ago, but the 5020 size blowers just don't generate the static pressure required to create a focused high speed flow from a nozzle. They're fine for wafting large volumes of air around, but that's not the ideal in an application like this.

You seem to be right, though take a look at http://www.sunon.com/pro.php?c1=16
Really handy for finding fans.
5015 MF50151VX-B00U-A99 5.4 CFM 0.97 inch h2o 42.2 dBi
5020 GB1205PKV1 5.7 cfm 0.66 inch h2o 35 dBi
As you said, more CFM but less pressure, but is it enough?

Hi again,

Another mod by myself, check out my lightning solution for your mount which can be downloaded from here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3858536

Let me know what you think.

Rotary plate for LED strip on 40mm hotend fan

Very nice design! What kind of self-tapping screws should I get? M3 20mm?

The hardware list is in the description. No self tapping screws are used.

Unless I misunderstood something, the hardware list in the description has "self tapping screws (40mm fan) 4off". I assume it refers to the 4010 axial fan mounting screws. I checked the stl file and the holes do seem to be for self-tapping screws, not inserts. Could you double-check?

Edit: axial fan.

My mistake! I see what you mean now. Yes the hotend fan holes are sized for the usual small screws that come with the fan. Any small self tapper will do, or drill and tap the holes to M3.

Thanks for the reply. It’s more the recommended length I wanted to know.

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EZABL custom probe settings is 57.7mm (58 for TH3D since you need to use whole numbers) in X, 0mm in Y

18mm inductive sensor bracket's arm is too short. I had to make it 15mm taller!!
I hope you don't mind me posting the file here.
Edit: dear user, check my next message in this thread for an updated version

No problem! Thanks for checking it out and making the changes. It would be a lot easier to design around actual parts rather than unclear drawings.

Nice, I've just updated my redesigned part.
Now it's more compact in the X direction and it now grants access to the 5015's bolt.

Config:
X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 47
Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -13

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I like this design and have a Volcano coming in the mail anytime soon.

Would it be possible to have a version of the Volcano duct with inserts?

I don't see why not. I'll see what I can do.

Comments deleted.

Maybe I'm asking much, but could you do mod to this design with a 4010 part cooling fan?

The 4010 stock part cooling fan doesn't create enough static pressure to push air through a duct and out of a nozzle in a focused flow.

I really admire your design, but all 5015 fans I had were loud, whining at sub 100%, didn't even turn on until like 30-40%. Used the stock 4010 with bullseye and herome and had great results regarding cooling performance. And the cnc kitchen guy showed that more cooling isn't always what we want :)

This is why I prefer dual 5015, you can just run them both at low speed and get the equivalent amount of cooling as stock fan 100% speed but quieter.

I have pancake motor + BMG, but still using the ender 3 stock hotend, do you think it will fit? I suppose this part (see photo) would have to extrude farther out so that the PTFE coupler lines up with the BMG? I know that you have another mount designed specifically for the stock hotend, but that one requires an M5 screw which I don't have. (and...that one doesn't look as good :)) Would be great if you could share the step file, thanks in advance.

James, have you been using this, or had any others test this duct? I am finding since moving from the 30mm to 40mm fan that my amount of jams has sharply increased. I imagine, due to ineffective cooling of the heatsink of the v6.

Im wondering if the new shroud has an impact on that. It could very well be my fan.

I think the whole assembly could be moved up 5-7mm to accommodate the stock stepper motor so as to not collide with the x end stop.
https://imgur.com/a/KWMPRBR
I already bought a pancake stepper from amazon yesterday and should be here tomorrow. Even though it shows it in the cad renders, it might be a good idea to say that either a pancake stepper or you have to dremel a notch into the x end stop to get this to work. I hope this doesn't come across as too entitled, but more as a constructive criticism as it was meant. Thank you for the great job/work you are doing!

Maybe include a separate model of a replacement x axis end-cap with the correct notch. Might be easier to model, possibly even something that even I could do.

I should get around to writing a note in the description. In fact I'll do it now! Because I always use geared extruders with pancake steppers I forget that it's nor always obvious.

I'm not sure which way you intended the BLTouch to be mounted, but I had to rotate mine so the connector is facing outward. Otherwise, it causes the BLTouch to cantilever out at an angle (see attached images). This is a genuine BLTouch Smart v 2.0.

I'm printing the duct now and can't wait to swap out the Pestfang for this model :)

I tend to put the connector on the outside to try and keep everything compact and the wiring accessible. Generally on my designs, if something doesn't seem to fit, turn it around!

Not sure where the supports are needed?

Is it possible for you to do one for 5015 fan??

it is made for 5015 fan, look at the images.

Does the stock Ender 3 stepper work or is it to big to fit?

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Stock stepper works fine...although I've done the Linear rail mod on my X Gantry so it may not work for you

eg. it clears the X Motor and endstop cover when homed

Hi!! Is it possible to use an stock motor for this design? nobody sell a pancake motor in my country :(

Any chance of a bl touch mount for the left side?

+1 that would make the whole mount more compact if the bltouch would fit in front of the stepper. It would also make the mounting of the 5015 fan.

Other than that the design is really good, works like a charm.

What print settings do you recommend for this version? Same as the original BMG/V6 (20-30% Infill, 4+ Walls)?

4 walls and 22-25% infill gives very strong components.

Will this duct bolt onto your previous v6 bmg direct drive mount or do i need to reprint all files?

This is a completely new design.

Need to lengthen the EZABL mount...currently too short to allow the adjustment screw to be used properly.

Could you clarify? This was modeled with the correct spacing between the nozzle and body of the sensor.

The size of the mounting hole is fine. It's the part that attaches to the main body that is too short (the post for lack of a better term). In it's current state, you have to lower the sensor in the mount so far to reach the bed that the adjustment screw on the sensor (located on the side of the sensor) is hidden behind the mounting ring. If the mounting post was about 10-15mm longer this would solve the problem. It appears that @The_slunk below has remixed something for the 12mm sensor addressing the issue, but there is no remix for the 18mm sensor.

I can extend the 18mm as well, but I don't have a full sized EZABL (just the pro mini) so it would be kind of a stab in the dark. Do you know about how much longer it would need to be? I dropped mine about an inch.

Both sensors are the same length so I would guess that if it works for yours it would also work for the 18mm version.

Sorry for the delay, I guess Thingiverse doesn't notify you when someone's replies to your comment. I'll have one up for the 18mm sensor when I get home from work in a couple hours.

The other option is that I put up the STEP files of the mounts as they stand so you can edit them as you need.

If you can tell me how much longer each diameter mount needs to be I'll sort that one out for you. It's always awkward when you can't find proper references for these parts, and there is an ever growing number of options!

For sure. For mine (12mm version) I extended it about 53mm which positioned it perfectly. I cannot confirm how much is required for the 18mm version, but @noobington mentioned they were the same length so 53mm should work as well.

53mm would put it below the nozzle! How far above the print surface does the underside of the mounting ring need to be?

My apologies, I meant 23mm. Sorry about that.

Hey, thanks a ton for this design. Your BMG/V6 kit seems to be the most complete one which also allows for the V6 heatsink to be mounted directly onto the BMG (which to me seems like the whole point) while most others use a fitting and short PTFE tube between them.

The only issue I had was that the Sensor mount was a bit short for my EZABL Pro mini so I went ahead and remixed a longer version. Will link a make of my setup once i get it all cleaned up. Thanks again for this.

Not fun when you have to clean bmg Gears.

What makes you say that?

Guess you have to remove the fan shroud to get to the gears

You can open the release fully and access the gears.

Any chance of this, but for the stock/micro swiss hot end?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3466809

There's a BMG mount in the files section. The part cooling nozzle geometry is identical with this design. It's not as neat looking, but that's really difficult to achieve with the stock /MS hotend.

Creality Direct Drive: Stock Extruder & Hotend

From the looks of the comments, this must be working for people, but I find holes in this model's duct as well. Only in two spots this time though. print thin walls and other tricks all fail. Love your designs though.

Have you got a better pic of the issue?

NVM figured out the issue. :)

Looks like it's adjustable enough for a volcano, but since the V6 duct is connected to the part cooler, I think it would end up being too low if I dropped the duct. If I'm right, do you have a version for the volcano, and if not can you explain?

There will be a Volcano version.

I'll try to wait. :)

@Hangtight, are you able to share the step files so that we can modify for other printers such as the Geeetech? I have done this with your previous design.

Kind Regards,
Paul

I'll swap ya! If you've got accurate models of other printers then I can start producing effective designs for a wider range of machines.

@Hangtight, here you go :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3771931

Let me know if you need anything else from me - pics of the x carriage etc. The thing above should be used as the adapter plate (or at least the upper half of the thing as the two upper small holes are critical for mounting, the large holes are to clear the button head screws for the wheels.

Geeetech A10 X Carriage Mount / Adapter for Hotend Designs

hi, this direct adapter can work with left hand BMGs?

greetings

@Hangtight, thanks for pointing me in this direction. I love this...but will wait on printing until you finish the EZABL 18mm adaptor attachment. Thank you for your work.

Thanks for posting this design! The duct collided with the heater block for me, so I had to modify it to give it some room.

@Hangtight I figured out why this happened to me. It is because I have the Left-handed (mirrored) Bondtech BMG. I believe this makes the hot end sit a bit more forward than it normally would, which not only makes the duct collide, but also I think it makes the cooling ineffective since it blows behind the nozzle (tested with water bowl). is it possible for you to modify the design to work for the LH BMG as well?

Thanks for this! Really good job, I’m mounting it, for a V6 bore, I need to put the ptfe until bmg really? Thanks

I added 2 low-infill blocks below the overhangs for easier and more stable supports printing.

This has now been addressed so it prints with no supports.

But the big hole for stepper is now blocked.

Damn You Fusion! Sorting it out now. Sorry about that.

Is this issue already fixed in the uploaded version? I don't see any problems.

Don't be=) Thank you very much for the excellent design.

Another amazing design!

I printed your v6 Mount/Duct combo back in October last year and have been 100% satisfied with it. I didn't think I'd need to 'upgrade' to a direct drive setup until I saw this...

Any way, I printed the mount last night to make sure my BMG (clone) + Stock Ender 3 stepper fit and it does flawlessly - so I'm printing the Duct now and can't wait to do a dry fit when done.

Thanks again!

How did you manage to get the rear lower screw into the extruder past the right hand side of the mounting plate?

Never mind, managed to get it by putting it through the outer shell of the extruder casing first and then assembling it.

You'll find the stock full size stepper bits the X limit switch cover. Unfitness if it was designed to clear with a big stepper the nozzle would be moved a long way forward.

Oh damn - didn't think about that! no doubt the dry fit would've made that rather obvious.

Any stepper motor recommendations?

Thanks again :)

I've been using the pancake steppers from Trianglelabs with zero issues.

Cool thanks. Would a 28mm stepper work? or is that still too big? as I'm not too keen to wait for the slow boat...

Can I ask why this extruder is faced the "wrong" way, in my opinion? Should the lever with adjustment-screw not be faced to the front, for easy access, cleaning and clearing when needed? I have a similar (clone) on my CR10S4 but facing opposite compared to your design and that has helped me already several times to help flexible filament find the right path, as well as cleaning it after it ate into some filament due to too much tension. I do use the normal heating block and not your choice of heatsink/hot-end, but that would also be possible.

However with my mount for the stock hotend and BMG the extra height added by the fact the hotend isn't integrated with the extruder allows it to sit above the top edge of the X carriage, so it can be turned around. On the Bondtech design the outlet is heavily biased toward the lever side of the extruder.

If the extruder was mounted the other way around the nozzle would be moved a long way forward loosing a significant amount of Y travel.

Agreed, it looses about 30mm of Y travel, in my case also about 15mm of X travel although that could be reduced by altering the mounting position. But I happily trade that- for now - for the convenience of being able to check and clean the inside of the extruder! Until now I have had only 2 objects that needed the full Y and X size of approx. 390mm .....

That looks wicked! Great job!! Would it be possible to add a mount for a EZABL?

I will be doing an EZABL mount.