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3d_printing_doctor

SLA UV DLP 3d printed printer with a raspberry pie

by 3d_printing_doctor Jul 21, 2019
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hi .. im just wondering what i need to upscale this thing by for the 4k screen

Hi The printer is scaled to fit the 4k panel that is in the link in the description

Hi. I am going to build and test this project. I have CR10S5 printer, so I can print large parts as one piece. Could you please add to the files the whole size (uncut) models? Or sent them directly to rosch8@gamil.com
Any other progress?
Thank you

Robert

Heads up, the reflector fowls on the raspberry pi mounts and the sd card

Yo! Wondering if you've tested this build yet?

Same here - does it actually - print and make parts - yet ?

I seem to be having difficulties with slicing some of these files in both slic3r and Cura case_bottom_front_right_stl seems to implode near the vents and multiple holes throughout the geometry. in the info panel it says it auto-repaired 334642 errors. not sure what im doing incorrectly when importing the stl files any help would be appreciated

The vent area is messy with verts. But still prints absolutely fine all files have been tested and made watertight. And has been printed already 5 times by 5 different makers on all different machines. Please also confirm yours printed fine as well. Hope you are liking the build so far

unfortunately, I have not had any luck yet, I re-sliced it simplify3d that seemed to handle the vertices a little better but have not had a chance to reprint. thank you for taking the time to ask and I will follow up with updates it looks like a pretty fun build

I think someone should toss the files into Blender and manually zip up the non-manifold edges. MeshMixer /may/ be able to handle repairing it automagically, but with that many errors, I don't know if I'd trust it.

So I am going to try and print this or something like this soon... Question what material is the vat made of? I have a spool of ABS That I was going to use, can I use that for the Vat?

Pla only for the vat. All other materials tested with resin abs e t c react to resin

Wondering where you found that information. I'm in the process of making a resin vat using polycarbonate, so it'd be really useful to know if I'm about to waste a bunch of filament and time.

So I am going to try and print this or something like this soon... Question what material is the vat made of? I have a spool of ABS That I was going to use, can I use that for the Vat?

I can't speak for the designer here, but I don't believe the material the vat is made of is of much consequence.

I'm in the process of designing and building an LCD-based resin 3D printer as well. I noticed that you're planning to put a sheet of glass between the resin tank and the LCD, but you don't seem to have any collimators on your LEDs. Wouldn't this cause a bunch of light bleed and loss of resolution?

Here's my thought process:

  1. Given that the light is traveling in a cone with an inner angle of 120 degrees from its source
  2. Given that the glass is 3mm thick
  3. Given that the refractive index of your glass is 1.51
  4. The UV light filtered by the LCD will have traveled tan((120/2)/1.51)*3 mm (or 2.49mm) from where it passed through the LCD by the time it hits the resin in your tank.

I've started watching Ionel Ciobanuc's videos on YouTube, and to my eye it looks like he has his resin tank right up against his LCD screen, even with 20 degree collimators on his LEDs. Am I thinking about this right, or have I missed something?

EDIT: Did the math wrong, I think I got it right this time.

hi
Did You mange to print something?
what where the costs of this build? (im thinikg on buying sla ... )

There is a plan to put a thin sheet of aluminium. On the surface of the build plate. But resins prints do stick to PLA. Hopefully not to well. But the best thing about this build plate is it can be printed over and over again. Plus. You can have 2 or 3 to easily swap out and not wait ages to print again because of cleaning the one build platform you would normally have

how does it stick to build plate. not aluminum

Creality cr10. 300 by 300 by 400 the build plate for the dlp printer could be sliced in half. As this is the biggest part of the build. But you would have to glue a flat surface of aluminium to the bottom. If you do.

What FDM printer have you printed the parts on?

13.3 yes. My first print is going to be hulk buster. Still waiting for the 4k panel

Wait how big is this thing?!?I thought I read 13 inch screen

This is the thing I don t know yet. As I am still waiting for the 4k panel. What I do know is they are very powerful and they have a short throw from the base with mirrors. The wattage can be turned up to create some serious heat. If for some unknown reason they are not powerful enough they can easily be replaced with A UV led light Led array. But I really do not think this is needed as these Uv leds are enough to cure the resin. Its open source so if you want to go with and LED array you totally can as the buck converter will supply the power the need

Hi! Just thinking if 4 x 10W leds were enough for 13,3 in LCD?

For the LCD panel 2 or 4k you have to take the complete set or just the lcd? And I also wanted to know what the print volume was, because the height of the Z seems small.

Complete set the screen has to plug into the raspberry pie via hdmi. The photo has perspective and the vat is really deep. the z height build volume measures in over 150mm as the profiles are 380mm tall. which is big also the y is just under 300mm and the x is 160mm. To give you an idea it cost roughly 3000 euro to buy a resin printer with that build volume in this current market. You can also remix the arm to make the build platform higher to get more z height. That's the beauty of this printer you can custom it to do anything you wish to. You can go 480mm profiles and z screw if you wish

Thank you very much for the answer. So I will see to take a 4k screen and a Raspberry PI v4 :). Thank you again for these clarifications.

No problem. Remember your bigest friend for this build is the nanodlp website. They have all of the information you need. And I will post a step by step build video soon

All files are uploaded now. Now its just getting it to work if you need instructions on wiring. The wiring and electronics are the same for this printer. All of the tutorial videos to the wiring are here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749678 Be careful though he gives the wrong pitch size in the nanodlp settings

FDM printed SLA-Printer by TOS

information For those who are buying the 4k panel for the rasberry pie
Just got my 4K monitor working at 24Hz with no overclocking required. It didn't work at 15Hz
I followed the posts in this link:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=38...
In essence you need to do the following:

  1. Open your confix.txt file (sudo nano /boot/config.txt)
  2. Enter the following code at the bottom of the file
    disable_overscan=1
    hdmi_ignore_edid=0xa5000080
    hdmi_group=2
    hdmi_mode=87
    hdmi_cvt 3840 2160 24
    config_hdmi_boost=7
    framebuffer_width=3840
    framebuffer_height=2160
    max_framebuffer_width=3840
    max_framebuffer_height=2160
    hdmi_pixel_freq_limit=400000000
  3. Save (ctrl & O)
  4. Exit (ctrl & X)
  5. Reboot (sudo reboot)
  6. In nanodlp ensure your horizontal and vertical resolutions are set correctly i.e. 3840 & 2160
  7. Reboot
    Enjoy your working 4K display

With this info I will just buy the 4k panel on the 25th of september. I am working overtime to buy more parts and filiment

Comments deleted.

Forgive me but what are the key features when it comes to finding an LCD panel? I'm wanting to go 4k to make use of the large size but don't know what key words I need to include in my search

Awesome. The arm is good to go now. I was worried about the end stop activator being too long but its fine I just tested it. Actually I think I am just going to upload the models of what works so far

I would think a laptop screen emits very little, if any UV light.
Will this work to cure the resin?

I am using separate 40w uv 405nn flashing underneath. The screen is a passthrough

Awsome :D how is the timming done?
Do you have a link to the unit your using?

Check the thing details as I just updated it with a BOM list

Very interested to build one of these, but the only file I see is for the arm. Do you have the other parts ready to upload, or are they still going through some design changes?

Still testing the model. I am close

Cool. I'm printing the arm right now, so I'll have to gather supplies for everything else while you finalize the body.

I just updated the BOM list. of everything I have brought so far

Awesome. The arm is good to go now. I was worried about the end stop activator being too long but its fine I just tested it. Actually I think I am just going to upload the models of what works so far done and uploaded

Fantastic, thanks!

EDIT: All sliced and queued, looking forward to when it's all done over a week from now! Lots of printing.....

Very interested in seeing how this project comes together. What size and resolution was the old laptop screen.

The dimensions of the laptop screen are 185mm x and 320mm in y. I have changed the design to accommodate several sizes. I just finished the final modeling pass. and electronic parts come this week. the top half of the printer is finished working on the arm and vat now. Let me make all of the mistakes and then you guys get the final product. p.s couldnt beleive my luck when I found out that I can make the build plate also 3d printed. research goes a long way This will be even lighter on the z axis reducing the pulling forces

I would not have thought you could 3D print the build plate. I am having a problem with one of my resin printers. I might try to 3D print a build plate for it to see if that helps with the problems I am having.

That is awesome man go for it. Let me know how it went. It could also be screen burn in. so check for holes in the display, display holes