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adamdms

Creality CR-10s PRO bed cable issue fix

by adamdms Jul 21, 2019
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Thank you a LOT for making this. I've print it and mount it on my PRO and works like a charm, although after 1 year of moderate use I didn't see any damage, bul hey, better to prevent damage then fix it. Thanks again.

Thanks for doing this! it's a lot of work that really should NOT have to be done. All they had to do is design the piece that attaches to the bed to fit an exisitng strain relief. My only concern is that the original creality piece still has the sharp edges on it that could bend the wire. The ultimate solution would be to desing the bottom piece to fit your design as well.
Thanks!

First, Thank you for creating this problem fixer. I'm only posting to help other folks that are having an issue with the cap fitting some models of the CR-10s Pro correctly. I have one of the early productions of this machine from 2018. "I'm not sure if there are differences in the molded parts in comparison to the models currently shipped. My Problem was the cap wasn't long enough to clip down onto the molded plastic as seen in the "Cap problem" pic. I watched the creators video several times and it looks like there cap has a slant in the bottom connector as seen in "OG post" picture creating the extra length needed. I had to file down the cap piece on the bottom to create a slant instead of how it's printed which is squared on the bottom. See "cap fix1" picture.

Yep, Mine is brand new Dec 2019 and I have the same problem. Needs to be about 2-3mm longer.

Please pay attention how it is mounted on existing cable holder. First you need to slide in the chain mounting axis and then clip the cap from the top.

I was able to get a picture of the problem. I think they lengthened out the piece by about 5mm. If you can see in the attached picture, the back part of your piece is now about 3mm into the factory support. I’ve snapped the rear part off of two attachment brackets trying to get it on.

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it's really too tight ….is this possible to have the original (fusion 360 or other file) Many thanks…

It DOES NOT FIT my CR-10S Pro.

Hi, it is made to fit tightly without any play. Please pay attention how I did mount it. First slide the rear part. Then snap in that front part from the top.

Thank you for your reply. I think my cables are a little bit thicker as they don't fit inside that small space in the bottom part. I also did not remove the protective tape around them.

Can you share some photos?

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Anyone know if there's an stl of the lower part that attaches to the underside of bed?

I really can't understand what orientation to print the chainup and chaindown files in.

This is great ! i gotta try it and report back.

Update: Working great as expected very easy to install and smooth. Thank you designer!

Hi,
Very nice design!
Is the cap suppose to click on the factory wire holder? I secured with a tie-wrap, like in the vid, but I can not get it to click.

I have 2 chain pieces done for the moment and the fitting is nice. thank you!

No problem, enjoy! :)

I had a click, but it is not mandatory. Cable tie should be enough.

First of all a feedback for the printing angle.
I rotate a bit the up/down parts (check pic 1) and they printed fine! No cracks whatsoever.
But they came out REALLY REALLY tight and the chain can not move freely.

Now about the cap.stl, it doesn't seem to match the shape of the CR10S Pro cable base. (pics 2/3/4)

Do you have any suggestions?

Thank you!

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Try to push if from the back side first, towards the bed.
It will fit! It just needs a little force.

V2 is with a bit more clearance between the joins.
Personally for me, it looks like the 2 files (ChainDown_MoreSpacing.stl and ChainUp_MoreSpacing.stl) with 0.6mm clearance are working much better.
I will see if i need to open them up a bit more.

Good to hear. Please post pictures or video of finished chain.

Regarding the cap mounting process, please pay attention how I did it in the movie. First I fitted marked cap joint from the bottom and then snapped in rest of the cap from the top. Some pictures of my cap in the attachment.

Regarding the spacing of the chain. Did you download latest chain parts? Recently I've added some more spacing. See the description.

Regards

Yeap, i can confirm that i download the files at 27th of the month, which was after you upload the new versions i think.
The ones that you have online now and the ones that i printed, are exactly the same.

The cap is on place, since i squeezed it a bit but the other joins are WAY to tight for some reason.
(printed at 100% infill | 60mm/sec)

Try those files. I've added 0.3mm on one side of the chain. So on both sides there is 0.6mm of new spacing.

will this work on the normal CR10S ?

If there is exactly the same black peace for holding bed cables then yes.

Would you consider adding a bit of "looseness" to the chain parts? I have printed the chain parts many times adjusting layer height and orientation. I cannot get parts that will move easily. Lowering the tolerances would make a difference and should still make the chain quite usable.
Thanks,

Still having trouble. The sides are tight enough so that there is friction caused by the layers. It feels like a tiny "detent" as you manually move the parts. A suggestion would be to extend the pegs out a bit so that they force the sides out slightly. Then the parts would be freely(mostly) pivoting on the peg and matching partial hole. Just a thought. At this moment, I can't use the chain. After printing 2 down and 2 up parts, I just can't get enough free motion to make me feel comfortable that the "bending" action of the complete chain would what you demonstrate in the video.
Thanks,

I wouldn't add space to the sides. This friction caused by layers is not permanent. It's disappearing very fast creating some space. If i would add more space then it would end up with double the space size causing big play. Can you record how the printed chain behaves?

I've added some spacing. Please try now.

Is there a specific reason why the orientation of the stl files is like that?
I mean, there is a faster way to print the base for example, if the big side is flat on the bed.

I did check different orientation for chain parts and it is not the best way. When you are mounting it then you need to squeeze it a bit. If the print is oriented 90° from current orientation it will break when squeezed. I didn't check the cap, but maybe there will be similar side effect.