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FLOWALISTIK

Low-Poly Pikachu

by FLOWALISTIK Jun 27, 2014
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Seems to be an issue with the STL. Layer shifting at the same point in the model every time. Not the same print layer, but the same point on the model. Friend had the same issue with the file.

Hi, i've printed few of this in different ways:

  • Upscaled to 200% (with and without support), 0.4mm nozzle, 0.15mm layer high;
  • Upscaled to 150% (without support), 0.4mm nozzle, 0.15mm and 0.1 layer high;
  • Upscaled to 125% (without support), 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer high.
    I've used an Ender 3 printer to make them, from 75% to 100% cooling fan speed, 25mm/s initial layer and then 40mm/s print speed, 50°C for the plate during the first layer and then 40°C, 210°C for the nozzle.
    Every single pikachu that i've printed has got the same problem with few layers just above the feet and under the ears.
    I tried to slice them many times but always with the same result.
    What can I do?

Tried this in Cura 3.6 and this shows up after slicing (nose layer issue). So i tried to upgrade to Cura 4.0 and the same in preview. Tried to print and it failed in that layer. Any ideas?

Time-lapse of my print. Hollow, 2 walls .2mm layer Ender 3 scaled up 339% https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_mFs_T1n6k&feature=youtu.be

thanks a lot for sharing !

Hi when im trying to slice this model it is showing it needs supports on top of parts like on the top of his head. Does anyone know what this might be, have checked other models and they are ok just seems to be all of this designers files. Cant wait to print on of these.

I can confirm as well; no supports needed. :)

No supports needed

Don’t know if it’s possible, but can you design some separate eyes. So I could print out of black and glue it in?

I've made dozens and DOZENS of this model! Why? Its my benchmark for testing new rolls of filament for quality, and only requires a few grams of plastic. Been able to accomplish flawless .1 prints on my highly modded CR-10S with a SINGLE WALL with PLA+. I hate Pokemon but this model is AWESOME for testing your printer. My buddies aunt came over and I gave her like 30 Pikachu's to give to her nephew lol she thought all the colors and sizes were amazing like an entire village of Pikachus small and big. I can get excellent quality printing down to 20% of the original size with a .2mm nozzle. Excellent model. I can't give it enough praise for the proper angles and formatting. GOOD JOB!

Ive been doing the same way. New filament? Jump right to a new slice of this pikachu.

Could you help me out and tell me why the ear tips on my model messed up while printing? everything else was perfect. I am using the MonoPrice Maker Select Plus V2.
Res= 0.2
Infill= 20%
Nozzle Size = 0.4.

Hey I really wish I could help but Im new but I read your comment and Im sorry that I can't do more

You dont need any infill with this model FYI, if your having printer issues start off by slowing down the print and using your cooling fan. I presume your using PLA so run that fan on high (at least 80%). For you I would also suggest making sure you have 2 or 3 walls of thickness instead. Once you get your printer dialed in you can attempt a single wall. I print mine all hallow and have successfully got single wall (paper thin thickness) from every filament EXCEPT nylon which needs 2 walls. Can you take a pic and attach it to a reply? I attached a couple pics of this pikachu the yellow is PETg and the clear is nylon.

Attached is the image.
I did run at 100% cooling from layer 2.
I had 3 walls plus 3 top n bottom layers with 20% infill
Outer wall speed= 30mm/s
Top/Bottom Speed=25mm/s
Initial Layer speed=15mm/s

Those prints look really good actually. I know exactly what the ear issue is, now - your hot end is spending too much time in one small area and the filament is not cooling enough so when it goes to that next layer on the ear its squishing down on a still partially melted lower layer. It happens to me sometimes. Depending on what slicer your using (I use Cura) under cooling you can set minimum layer time - make sure its at least 10 seconds. What will happen is your hot end will move away and let the print cool and stiffin up a little before it goes to the next layer. Also PLA dosent like to be printed 'too' hot - your hot end might be a little high. 200-210c is usually perfect. If you anticipate fine detail in your print (like the tips of the ears) run your hot end slightly cooler - in Cura you have a 'final printing temperature' option which automatically drops the hotend for those fine detail areas - its ok with PLA to let it finish up at 190c.

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Just printed this Pikachu! Check out my time lapse video of the print:

https://youtu.be/X1U3v2oH8dg

Thanks for a great model!

Could you do all of the starters in the future? I'm currently making all of your low-poly pokemon models.

Can you do an eevee in the future?

Great model, have printed it several times. Only negative feedback I have is that it has flipped normals, which could cause issues when printing in certain slicers.

i have had a problem twice now when printing this pikachu with ABS. It prints fine till it gets to the ears then starts printing in mid-air and like 100mm/s when the rest of the print was at 45mm/s. Please help as i really like this design.

Upgrade your printers firmware. Ive printed this in ABS & PLA flawlessly. Hallow & with infill. I HIGHLY suggest using the latest CURA - it just works and its free.

This page is basically ripping your items off from your page and selling them.

https://sg.carousell.com/curiousity3d/

Hi, I just signal that one man is selling this item :

https://www.leboncoin.fr/jeux_jouets/1157588760.htm?ca=12_s

I've already signal to leboncoin that it's a violation of licence terms

Hi I would like to know if it is okay to advertise a unit (acetone vapour box) I made, were I smooth out the abs parts I liked, and show the people all over the world about this amazing unit I designed. With this Pikachu smooth out shinny and smooth in the background of my unit is this okay to do I would like permission?

Printed great with pla on my trinus using simplify3d! My daughter loves it!

Thanks for the great model FLOWALISTIK! This was the first thing I printed after I received my Monoprice Select Mini 3D printer. I eventually did a remix with tail enforcement like others have done but really appreciate your work on and uploading of the model. Was a great opportunity for a noob like me to print a cool thing for my kids as well as figure out how I could reinforce the tail connection. I will (eventually) post a "made" picture ... or maybe pictures of several of my "mades". My favourite is one I scaled up 50% with no infill and while it was printing I popped in a flashing LED light that I cut out of a dollar-store toy.

When are you going to do porygon?

My Sister favs Pikachu she will go crazy if I show this to her!

recalibrate and make shure yo have the z-offset right

My print failed twice now....
help?

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Tail is connected a little too weakly, especially with that angular stress point.

I'm experiencing the same thing.

These are great designs and my kid very much wants this one printed out.
I'm having some difficulty and would be happy to send a tip to Flowalistik designer if anyone could help me find a solution.

Printer: Cube 3D (3rd gen)
Issue: Model displays in all black in the "Cube Print" software. When I tell it to build, it gives the message "Print file generation failed. Please try again.".

Anyone have any thoughts?

go on this site to repair the model I print with a cube 3 and it worked https://makeprintable.com

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Thank you for this model. My kids can't stop asking for more!

Thank you for this model. My kids can't stop asking for more!

Thank you for this model. My kids can't stop asking for more!

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Awesome! Just printed this and it looks incredible! How did you make this (which software)?

Wonderful thank you

I really enjoy these low-poly designs. I have been printing them and leaving them around for other people to find !
They are also really popular when I print them and post pictures of them on Instagram.
Keep up the great work. Jak.

What would be the infill? 15?

Srioustly - with a .4mm nozzle which is the most common you should be able to print it with 2 walls thickness and NO infill. .15mm layer height is preferred but I can print it with no infill with .2mm fine. Remember - its OK to slow your print down a little. Use your cooling fan at around 80% for PLA. Dont use the cooling fan for ABS if you can.

You do realize that people have been selling your designs on ebay and etsy

It happens. I ran across a blog where some dude made dalek and tardis t-shirts for his gf. Go on ebay and 75% of the designs are from that.

thats harsh dude

It's posible print 0% infil, how many shells?

Thanks

In my 'stress testing' Ive successfully printed with single wall with PLA+ and 100% fan speed. You need to have your printer DIALED IN good to accomplish this. I have harmonic stabilizers on the motors and a Micro Swiss all metal hot end on my CR-10S, and Im running Marlin 1.1.8 firmware on the printers computer. Running the latest Marlin firmware is going to be a HUGE benefit if your printer supports it. Regardless - SLOW DOWN YOUR PRINT and you CAN print single wall. ABOUT 45MM/S is as fast as I would suggest. Wanna go a little faster? 2 wall in Cura and your set. Your prints will always look best with more walls - it really depends on how much time and plastic your willing to invest in the print. This Pikachu on my printer with 2 walls is a 35min print.
EDIT: Try this with 2 walls in Cura - set your INNER WALL to bout 50mm/s and outer walls to 32mm/s.

I have noticed that when I load the model in s3d and in Lightwave the normals are flipped. Is there any reason for that? I know this model has been around for a while.

printed very quick and easy ... great file !!! Thanks.

I just saw "The 3d Printing Nerd" print this! :)

Thanks for the model. I did it as the 3rd print on my printer and it turned out nicely! The kids were arguing who would be the one to get the first one!

I did a time-lapse of this awesome model you can watch it here https://youtu.be/Zn9F2CRTj0s

how long does it take to make

Using M3D, with High Quality and High fill density, it takes nearly 9 hours to finish.

This is a really nice model, however the tail attachment point is unnecessarily weak. There's really no reason to make it that weak.

I'm printing it at my library downtown and I LOVE IT :D!!!!

I'm regularly, if not consistently (2/4) getting errors at the very tips of the ears. I even scaled the pika up to 200% and I'm still getting issues with malformed ear tips. I'm on a Makerbot Replicator Gen 5 printing at .1 mm resolution with 5% infill and 5 shells. Any suggestions to get the ears to turn out better?

Are you printing with ABS or PLA? For me, PLA has be known to get stuck in the printer's nozzle and can get stuck, especially with Makerbot. The heating system is relatively far from the nozzle, so when the filament travels down the tube, it often gets stuck. With ABS, it's probably warping.

We are using PLA.

We are using PLA.

Are you printing with ABS or PLA? For me, PLA has be known to get stuck in the printer's nozzle and can get stuck, especially with Makerbot. The heating system is relatively far from the nozzle, so when the filament travels down the tube, it often gets stuck. With ABS, it's probably warping.

Are you printing with ABS or PLA? For me, PLA has be known to get stuck in the printer's nozzle and can get stuck, especially with Makerbot. The heating system is relatively far from the nozzle, so when the filament travels down the tube, it often gets stuck. With ABS, it's probably warping.

Are you printing with ABS or PLA? For me, PLA has be known to get stuck in the printer's nozzle and can get stuck, especially with Makerbot. The heating system is relatively far from the nozzle, so when the filament travels down the tube, it often gets stuck. With ABS, it's probably warping.

Are you printing with ABS or PLA? For me, PLA has be known to get stuck in the printer's nozzle and can get stuck, especially with Makerbot. The heating system is relatively far from the nozzle, so when the filament travels down the tube, it often gets stuck. With ABS, it's probably warping.

you should check the minimum time between layer box value to maker sure enough time is spent between layers to cool down. This either slows the head down or causes a pause before advancing. Additionally enabling the move printer head away from object feature will ensure excess heat is not transferred from the hot end to the print. It is very useful when doing the ears as the warping is from the hot end smearing the plastic around

Thanks for the advice but Makerbots don't have "minimum time between layer" or "move printer head away from object" capabilities.

What do you think about putting a small clip on fan pointed at the object?

that is a good alternative solution if no software solution can be found having an additional small fan directly attached to the print head will help with preventing warping. I have used large fans to cool the entire object build space with better results but this can easily effect your hot end temperature. The last option is to have multiple objects printing at the same time. Having the print head move between two of the same objects ramps up the print time but can give the cooling time needed in between printing the ears.

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If you see the Pikachu models that have already been printed, at least half of them have problems with the ears. I print using PLA, a cooling fan (so the plastic solidifies as soon as it's extruded) and a slow speed. I would suggest you to print slower and with a lower temperature, but these are pretty general tips as every 3d printer is different!

PIKA PIKA PI! PIKA PIKA PI! PIKACHU!!

More Low Poly Pokémon!!!!!! MORE!!!

BTW .. I scale these 150% and make them into Christmas ornaments ....

how do we make it smaller or can we?

Do you mean you want to resize it? To change the model's size you must do it with the 3d printing program you use (Repetier Host, Cura...). The bigger you print the Pokemon, better the result!

Sorry for the newbie question, but I've just printed this model and - though it looks great in most respects - I'm getting bits of PLA strung between the body and tail. Is this common, or is there something in the settings I should be changing? I'd really appreciate any advice.

same with dan. I've printed many things very cleanly, but between the ears and tale, its all stringy and not a nice finish. I've noticed this before when the temp is a bit high or the speed might be a touch fast and its draging some unmelted PLA over.

I print exclusively with PLA, and this problem you're talking about is really common if the extruding temperature is higher than required. Also, not using a cooling fan for PLA lowers the print quality.The problem about sharing a 3d model is that the result depends more on the printer than on the model, the only thing I can recommend is: print slower, extrude with a lower temperature and use a cooling fan.

With the release of 4 new colors of the Z-ULTRAT filament by Zortrax, we bring you a quick look at the possibility 3D printing has in the toy industry. This is where imagination meets reality. With a 3D printer in your home, you can literally catch 'em all.

Check out our video on the great work done by Flowalistik's low poly Pokemon below.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:90301
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYuddM1RKvM

Can't wait to... "literally" get our hands on more of your work!!!

Low-Poly Pikachu

How are things coming on the Cyndaquil, man?

How any of these are not featured I'll never understand.. I guess you'll need to make a 'customizable' version of one hey ;p

Well, they are copyrighted by Nintendo, so it would be a bad idea to feature them.

Didn't stop them from featuring Doctor Who, the Tardis, Transformers... They don't care about IP.

It would be amazing a customizable version of each model with different positions and attacks. A Pikachu using thunderbolt or Squirtle using hydro pump!

How long does it take to print this?

Well, it depends on your printer. To have a very good result in my prusa i3 it takes 2 hours, but yesterday I tried to get even a better quality and it took 5 hours!

I notice that on these print images you have slight vertical banding, nearly identical to the issue I am experiencing. Do you know what might be causing it? What printer are you using?

Do you guys print this design and mail it, or are you on http://pinshape.com?pinshape.com?

I'm not on Pinshape, but I'm sure you can easily find someone to print any of my designs for a reasonable price!

Pika's tail (in PLA) wasn't quite up to a 5-year-old. Might want to reinforce if printing for the same demographic. :)

Give the model an acetone vapor bath. it will smooth the model and help keep the model in whole

You should see Charmander's tail, it's so fragile! I'm aware of the problems 3d printing cause, and the one that I think more about is the fragility, specially in the parts with small surface (tails). I'm considering different options to try to make them more solid and avoid the tail issue, but I have to try them and choose wisely!

Following up to say I didn't realize I was having underextrusion issues! Our Charmander is great so I'm sure our next Pika will be just fine. :)

Funny because our Charmander is still intact - will have to do a side-by-side comparison. The kids love all of your Pokemon and keep asking me if any new ones have posted. :)

Flowalistik, you are one of the best designers on this site IMO.
your pokemon models fit so well and feel incredibly accurate that it gives me so much nostalgia, thinking back to the GameBoy Color games.
I truly thank you for bringing back all these childhood memories.
I am proficient in Blender and wondering if you want help designing models.
Keep printing the future.

Thanks! I started this project because I wanted to create a path between the present and my childhood, and as Pokemon is known in every country I thought some people would like to have these designs.
If you know how to use blender and like this project, feel free to design other Pokemon. I'm going to keep this project personal, because designing low poly pokemon is the best way to bring back childhood memories, and if you want to feel the same I recommend you to start designing right now!

Wow... amazing job Flowalistik! Printing one right now haha... can't wait to see whats next!

My friends says you need rattata and dragonite. She wants to make a chess set and she needs rattata for the pawns. No idea what her plans for the Dragnite is.

Really cool idea! I will do my best but I have a hugh list of Pokemon I want to design!

Printing that one asap

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As usual, very well done!!
I was waiting for this one, nice job! ;)

YEAH! pikachu! one big family!

Awesome, I've been looking forward to you making pikachu, I'll be printing this soon!