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Classic Lego Brick

by bengineering, published

Classic Lego Brick by bengineering Jun 29, 2014
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Summary

Everything is awesome! Your classic 4x2 lego brick.

To get the nice "click" fit, the stubs on top can be oversized to provide an interference fit with the features on the base. I've included files for interference fits in increments of 0.05mm. 0.1mm seemed to work best on my printer (in ABS M30 on Fortus 360).

Also added an internal 45deg chamfer to the top edges of the inner cavity to allow this model to print cleanly without any support material!

(updated 2/16/17, adding files for 3x2 and 2x2 bricks, also a neat 4x2 brick keychain)
(updated 5/13/17, adding files for 2x10, 2x16 and 1x16 bricks)

Instructions

I'd suggest starting by printing two of the 0.10mm interference fit models, then move up or down based on how tight or loose the fit is.

The bottom interlocking features are the same in all versions of this model, so you won't need to print two of every type to test the fit.

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Mine came out shorter than original Lego, but fits nicely. I printed 2x2

Feb 15, 2017 - Modified Feb 15, 2017

Very nice design! Printed very well with my MP select mini/Mylan2000 WITH BRIM SUPPORT. Fit cleanly with real Lego.It would be nice if you could make a 2x2 model.

No problem! I just uploaded a 3x2 brick, a 2x2 brick and a 4x2 brick keychain.

Jan 28, 2016 - Modified Jan 28, 2016

the curving up in the inside was really nice for printing without supports, although it was a little loose. but the studs were perfect (connecting to real legos, i havent printed a second one yet) but mine warped a little bit so that might be why.

Can low-end printers print these accurately enough?
Has anyone successfully printed Lego-compatible pieces on printers costing under about US$1000?
(I'm thinking of buying a RepRap Ormerod 2).

Flibbidyfloo and t4tombo, did you get them to fit together? What printers (and nozzle diameter) are you using?

i have made dozens of these legos on a kossel delta printer.

Hello!
I'm a little confused as to what you mean by "the bottom is too loose and the top is too tight", since the top of one printed block mates with the bottom of another printed block. Are you trying to attach one of these blocks to a real Lego brick?

The bottom features are identical in size across all models, with respect to each other, not with respect to each block's top features. This way, you could try the fit of several dimensions without having to print two of every block type. I didn't consider attaching these blocks to real Lego blocks... if that's what you're trying to do, the fit on the bottom will be off for every block size. I can upload more sizes of the base if you'd like!

Dec 25, 2014 - Modified Dec 25, 2014
Flibbidyfloo - in reply to bengineering

Yes, sorry, I was trying to attach it to a "real" Lego brick. I have a nephew that loves Lego and I want to print him a custom brick with his name on it, that he can use with his regular Lego bricks. There are a lot of bricks on thingiverse but I'm a 3D printing newbie and I'm not sure how to find one that is likely to work. The name part is easy to add in Blender... but getting the right fit seems like it might take a fair amount of calibration on my part.

Thanks for the reply!

Two quick questions:

When you say to move up or down based on tightness, which direction is which? I printed the 0.1 with the same nozzle and height as you. the bottom is too loose and the top is too tight. Do I print the 0.15 or the 0.05 next?

Also, does your comment about the bottom features being the same mean that they are the exact same size on all the models, or that they are the same size as the top on each one (i.e. different on each model)?

I've printed the .00 and the .10 interference models, neither of which will fit together. Should I move to the .2 or will that make the fit tighter?

Always nice to see people making lego! To help choose the right model though, you should perhaps specify your nozzle size. It probably depends on the slicer as well, but in my experience using skienforge(47), the nozzle size makes a massive difference regarding the tolerance with which to print. For instance, using a 0.4 mm nozzle, I usually assume an extra 0.2 mm excess material. With a 0.2 mm nozzle on the other hand, I've found a 0.1 mm excess is typically the case. It will also no doubt depend on the actual and specified filament diameter, but I've found filament variation to have less of an impact than nozzle size.

Sure thing. I tested my parts with a 0.01" layer height and a nozzle diameter of 0.016" (~4mm).
I'd suggest to anyone trying this out to start with the 0.10mm interference fit model, then move up or down based on how tight or loose the fit is. The bottom interlocking features are the same in all versions of this model, so you won't need to print two of every type to test the fit.

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