Halo Reach and Halo 3 ODST - Rookie - Full Armor Set - Modified for Cosplay

by moesizzlac Aug 1, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

After reading through the comments, I have a few questions;
I have never done cosplay armor before, but have a decent amount of experience using a Prusa 3d printer. I also don't know in what dimension i should be measuring my head, but I'm also 6' and only 145 lbs. Do you have any advice for how I should go about re-scaling and printing? Also any approximate price range I should expect from printing materials and straps and such? Thanks.

"I also don't know in what dimension i should be measuring my head" - A lot of people just measure their head around. I don't like to do this as some heads are wider than others and that will affect how the helmet fits overall. If you are worried, I would pick up a copy of armorsmith (a program for sizing stl files to a body) and it'll remove a lot of the guess work.

"I'm also 6' and only 145 lbs. Do you have any advice for how I should go about re-scaling and printing?" - At 145, I wouldn't re-scale much but that's just my opinion. Like before, Armorsmith will take away the guessing and you can get a good idea how the entire outfit will look once complete.

"Also any approximate price range I should expect from printing materials and straps and such?" - Printing a suit of armor will be about 8 spools of filament if you budget everything right. Overall, starting cost at least $240 USD and can rise from there depending on what you do. (no electronics). Almost all the materials you will buy, you can use for other projects.

My recommendation if you are looking to keep costs down, I would print the helmet and chest pieces as those are the parts that everyone looks at the most. Build the rest out of foam. You can probably get away with under 300. Head over to 405th.com. There are plenty of people doing the same type of project. If you need foam files, for certain parts of the armor, use this link (https://www.405th.com/forums/resources/halo-3-odst-unsc-odst.90/) and click on the orange download button at the top right. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I can't wait to print the helmet! I'm going to be making a mold of the completed helmet, and then vacuum forming the visor. Do you know if the visor only file that's included is scaled exactly the same as it would be on a completed helmet? I worry about it fitting if it's used as a buck for vacuum forming. If you've done this, did you need to scale it down at all, and if so, how much? Thanks.

The visor is set to fit pretty close inside the helmet (I'm talking within a few mm). If you are vacuum forming, I would keep a brim around the finished product and place it inside using the brim as the glue point.

Also, Just a warning, please size both the helmet and visor appropriately for your head. If you are trying for a 24" head, please size about 5% bigger than what I uploaded. I found out a few days ago while working on an iron man helmet that my base head model was too small and had to adjust accordingly.

So I printed it at the default scale, as I had started before I saw your comment, and figured I'd just let it finish. I have a 24" head, so I'll try scaling 5% higher. Have you tested/confirmed with anyone that a 24" head would fit through the neck hole at 5% bigger? The 100% scale version seems like it's nowhere close to fitting, and I'm a little worried that 5% wouldn't be enough to get through the neck hole. If you've tried it, or have any advice, is appreciate it. Thanks!

I just uploaded another helmet and visor set up for a 24" head with removable back piece. Print both parts separate and before you paint it, I would use 4 magnets and a hinge to have the base of the helmet open and close so you can slide your head in...kind of like how I did ironman (See attached)

Was wondering does the Helmet print as one big piece or is it multi-part for printing on smaller printers?

Currently, it is set for one big piece without the visor. Everyone has a different sized bed so some like it complete and others like to slice it up for the smaller beds. If you are getting into 3d Printing, I would strongly recommend learning how to slice up stl files. I use blender but there are a lot of useful programs out there. give it a shot first and let me know if you need help. I can slice it up pretty easily so long as I have the printer's build dimensions.

Love this! So far I was starting with the forearms and ran into a size issue. I am not able to get my hands through the wrist opening and I don't consider my hands that big (I'm 5'8", 180lbs). The simple solution is to scale them bigger, but they are already too big in my opinion. Making the opening bigger is an option. However, I was wondering about splitting them lengthwise to make a clamshell opening. Possibly using the detail on top to hide the seem. Have you considered something like this?

I know this problem all too well. Your way is not a bad idea.

For me, If I want a smaller/tighter fit on areas like a forearm but are concerned about getting my hand through, I cut out a piece (very finely) off of the forearm and reattached it using Stretchrite (https://www.amazon.com/Stretchrite-2-Inch-10-Yard-Stretch-Elastic/dp/B0018N9T8M/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=stretchrite&qid=1567265600&s=gateway&sr=8-9) and hot glue. This will allow the armor to flex for you in other spots too like the shin armor. Try getting the heel of your foot through a correctly sized shin and it's a pain without the Stretchrite relief put in.


For this piece, I would put the relief in on the back of the forearm where no one will see the fine cut.

Also make the cut with a razor knife and TAKE YOUR TIME. Small, controlled strokes and scoring with the knife will eventually make a cut so fine that the seam will be negligible.

moesizzlac, thanks for the fantastic idea! I will give that a shot an let you know how it works.

Excellent work, it was a fun build!