"HexiBox" Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure

by HexiBase Sep 8, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

What do you guys recommend for an amplifier?

Does somebody know if the shorter version works fine as well?
Maybe the maker himself? :)


or is it better do it it like this?:


Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure - Smaller
Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure, 4 Parts

I want to buy this HexiBox Tang band subwoofer immediately, please send me link where I can buy.

Hi all.

Watched the videos and this thing looks awesome but a couple of questions?

I cant seem to find the Tang in the UK so are there any alternative woofers that will do the same job?

Could this be used in a car audio setup?


Looks awesome! Stoked to make this and see how it compares to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2605558

Thanks for sharing!

Micro-Sub Enclosure For Tang Band W3-2108
by Emotiva

I have one enclosure 90% made. Just waiting on some binding posts. I wanted to post a couple of build hints for anyone using my remix or even if they're not.

Fair warning - this thing wants to push A LOT of air so you want to make sure all joints are aligned and sealed well. When gluing the two halves together (of the four section remix I posted), lay some wax paper or plastic wrap on a flat surface, place the two halves flat on the surface with glue already applied then push the two halves together. Lightly tap the tops of both halves with a plastic mallet or block of wood to make sure both halves are flat against the surface. Use clamps to hold them together until the glue dries. When gluing the top and bottom halves together, make sure you use a generous amount of glue, even on the wave guide walls because you don't want any air leaks in any of these either. Even though these walls are on the inside of the enclosure, if there are any air leaks you WILL hear it coming out of the rear port. I didn't use enough glue on my first enclosure so now whenever there is a lot of low bass in the music I can hear chuffing and hissing coming out the port. It's driving me crazy enough that I'll probably end up making another enclosure.

Be sure to use some kind of gasket or liquid sealant such as silicone when installing the speaker driver. Using just screws is NOT enough to seal the driver from air leaks. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to get a good seal on all joints with this thing. With the amount of air that little driver is moving you WILL hear any leaks.

This little monstrousity is a BEAST! HexiBase hit it out of the park with this one. Even though this is suppose to be a subwoofer, the little Tang Band will actually reach pretty high up in the frequency range. Enough where some people (people who grew up in the late 60's, early 70's listening to hard rock at 120 dBa, Lol) may be satisfied with listening to it as a full range, or at most, with a small tweeter as a 2-way setup.

well I was going to ask for the cad file of this so that I could separate out the top few layers of the port for the bottom half to be printed in a glow in the dark color, but as it turns out there's no real good solution for printing a clear transparent cover. Another option I was contemplating was a spectrum analyzer three or four rows of LEDs down. Down the port path that light up to the music but once again there's absolutely no way to get a clear glass like print: (

I did this on an Ender 3 with a 20$ roll of Chinese PETG... .08mm layer heights with a little over extrusion and some light sanding post print.

You might not need to print the whole thing. What if you just left off the first "bottom" and printed only the ribs? Is glass or plexi stiff/dense enough to make good sound with a PLA body and a Plexi/Glass side and two glue seams like that? Maybe.

If you don't mind a little extra work you might be able to do it by using a Plexiglas or polycarbonate lid for it, though I don't know how that would affect the sound, plus you'd have to seal it to the enclosure.

The only way to pull this off correctly (perfectly clear) is to make a mold just as shown by

Remix posted. Splits each section into two halves to allow printing on a smaller print bed. I printed mine on an Ender 3. I did not change any of the original dimensions in order to maintain HexiBase's design parameters and goals. This thing sounds amazing and is worth the print time to make it.

NOTE (10/15/2019): Thank you to those who downloaded my remix, but I found a mistake in parts HB3S_10A, HB3S_10B, and HB3S_11B. The holes for the screws that secure the two halves together were too big and I've corrected the error. I've removed the old .STL files and reposted the revised parts. They are designated HBS_10A, HBS_10B, and HBS_11B. Please redownload these files. Sorry for the trouble.

Hello what do you plugging in your subwoofer.?

Has anyone printed this with the Creality Ender 3/Pro. Im looking at it now. It will only fit end on as the build plate is 220x220x250. Still doable. But would need support. In the arch areas. 30 % fill cubic , 4 perimeters is looking like 2 days and 18 hours, and half a kilo roll of filament.
I will save this mission for a bit later :)

Stay tuned. I've remixed the design so that it can be printed in four quadrants without supports while keeping the designed dimensions. Will be posting the remix soon.

There is a way to print this on an Ender 3, rotated 90 degrees to the vertical to fit its build plate. I have created support blocking to minimise support only where needed on the apex of the top curves of the wave guide and coupling chamber.
Even so with 4 perimeters and 20% infill rectilinear (line in cura) it would take 4 days to print one half. I know the Ender is slower than the mk3 prusa but not that slow. Cura often has over estimated print time.
May pull the trigger with some spare 700g of filament which is estimated

What I was thinking : could you scale this up to accommodate a 10" woofer for instance ? And of course probably increase the number of walls etc

Have you thought this through? In order to accommodate a 10" driver, you would need a printer with a bed size of at least 850mm x 650mm. You would also need almost 7kg (≈ 15 lbs) of filament and 300 hours of print time. And this is with the as-designed four perimeters and infill.
No thanks, ain't nobody got time for this. You're better off building the enclosure in wood if you want to use a driver that size.

It was just a thought ... ;) Anyhow : I'm not afraid of using a bit of extra filament and spending many print hours : I'm currently printing a life size multiple thousand hour R2D2 using about 20kg of filament. ;)

Wouldn't fit my printer bed indeed, it's limited to 500x500x500 mm.

For info : doubling the size would make it fit on an S5, would use 7 kg (for both parts together), and would take 120 hours to print.

Just curious, would having completely solid walls (100% infill) be better or worse acoustically? Printing time would obviously go way up...

OMG! This small thing is incredible. Thanks a lot for the files. Okay, i had a little bit problems with printing it, because my Ultimaker is not big enough, but.... in windows10=>3D Builder you can cut it by your own size. So, the print was done and the Tang Band was installed.
And what to say..... YEEAAAAHHHH !!!

How do you think it would perform if you made the body hollow (i.e. no infill) and filled with sand instead?

I don't think it would make much difference particularly given this enclosure is so small. I printed mine out of Filacube PLA 2 with 3 perimeters, 30% cubic infill, 0.2mm layer height, and sliced using Cura 4.3.0 and the result is a very solid and dense sounding structure. You also have to remember that this is a vented enclosure with a 3" driver so there isn't going to be a lot of internal pressure and such a small driver can't generate any meaningful frequencies under 40 - 50 Hz anyway.
Your idea would be beneficial in a larger cabinet, however. Wharfedale made speaker cabinets like that back in the day. They weighed a ton though.

Good points. Thanks for your reply.

Great design. I'm working on making a couple of these and plan on matching each subwoofer with a Tang Band W3-2141 3" full range driver with the woofer crossed at around 150Hz via a DSP to make it easier to equalize the outputs of the sub and full range. My print bed is a little small (Ender 3) so I'm working on splitting each enclosure half into two parts (four parts total) with the two halves interlocking into each other. Doing test prints now but I think it'll work out well. I also modified the upper and lower halves to take threaded brass inserts to make installing the driver easier and allow fastening the upper and lower halves together with M3 screws (and adhesive/sealant, of course). With the screws holding the upper and lower halves together, it might be possible to use just silicone sealant in the joint so that the enclosure can be disassembled in the future, if necessary. I want to experiment with putting some polyfill in the transmission line to see if that makes any difference in sound quality. I'm hoping this design can produce meaningful low end bass without being corner loaded as it is in the video.

I'm confident that you'll be impressed with the results whether or not you corner-load the enclosure. I wouldn't recommend polyfill along the waveguide. In this specific instance, it will mostly just reduce the enclosure's overall efficiency. (But feel free to try, especially if you leave yourself a way to get it back out.) Best of luck. Cheers!

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate you sharing your skills and knowledge. It's difficult to find people with such in-depth speaker design knowledge these days.
I was going to back-fill just the chamber directly behind the driver to see if that makes a difference in the slight "boom" I hear in the bass. I know it's not my Klipsch subwoofer that sounds boomy because it sounds fine with other music sources. Of course, it could just be the hollow space between my ears...
The woofer in mine is secured to the enclosure with M3 screws threaded into brass inserts that are thermoset into the enclosure. This makes it easy for me to experiment all I want.
On another subject, do you think your design is scaleable? Meaning, if one were to scale it up to fit a, say, 5.25" or 6" woofer, would it work? Of course I'd have to get a much bigger printer in order to do this.

Did splitting up the design into four parts work out? I would also like to print it on an Ender 3 but don't want to reduce the size. Any chance you could share the files?

It's working really well. I just need to make a few tweaks to the .STL files and print one more quadrant then I'll be posting a remix here.

Update (10/8/2019): Almost done and will post the remix within the next few days. It's taking a little longer because I wanted to print out the parts first to make sure the fit is good (I'm a perfectionist, lol). The two halves interlock with each other really well and should be a strong joint. The remix as it stands has holes designed to accept threaded brass inserts for mounting the speaker driver but I know not everyone has these so I'm adding a version with smaller holes so that regular self-tapping screws can be used. There are holes in the upper and lower halves to accept M3 x 18 screws (without threaded inserts) to help hold the two sides together in addition to any adhesive used. I also want to off-set the the seam line (as in brick laying) between the the upper and lower halves in order to give the assembled structure more strength.

How's your work? Can't wait for that STL

Looks great! Looking forward to printing it.

Thank you for making this available! I attempted to make my own version before you put out the STL files after your first video. To no avail as I had the wall thickness and infill grossly underestimated. Printed this version in a little less than 100 hours and I'll be doing full tests with it today. Could make a nice, subtle addition to my Accoustat Model X pair. Tipped you the max for your hard work. Thanks for doing what you do. I enjoy all your educational videos on youtube!


Many thanks. Looking forward to the results of your tests. Cheers!

I'm trying to choose a DSP to use with this. Can you make any recommendation regarding the choice of miniDSP 2x4 vs. Dayton Audio DSP-408? I'd like to use it to drive a full 2.1 setup. Mixing both channels into one output for the subwoofer with HP (~40Hz) and LP (~200Hz), as well as left and right outputs with HP (~200Hz).

this is an amazing design. HexiBase, please are there any limitations to this design?

HexiBase, Any suggestions on audio driver boards to pair with this to make it a stand alone? Was thinking about designing an add-on enclosure to attach to this with the driver etc.

Literally any 15-30W amp circuit will do. Perhaps even upwards of 40W if you can find a way to incorporate a high pass filter around 40Hz. Be sure to keep your enclosure well ventilated.

What size screws did you use to mount this speaker to the assy?

HexiBase, Any suggestions on audio driver boards to pair with this to make it a stand alone? Was thinking about designing an add-on enclosure to attach to this with the driver etc.

The speaker is only 15w RMS,right... so just a little 12V amp or what do some of your recommend?

Thank you very much!!!

Hi, I have a Makerbot Z18 and printed the bottom perfectly though the upper file keeps creating errors in the slices. I finally downloaded the latest meshmixer to try to clean up the errors though I was wondering if anyone else was having a issue.

Printed upper and lower without issue on a Creality CR10s Pro. Sliced in Cura.

Good to hear! I used Meshmixer to get it cleaned up!

I noticed, in the video, you are running this sitting on a block of foam. If it's on a hard surface, do you think it would be better flat on the surface, or with some feet to hold it up?

That was just for the purpose of the video; minimizing the possibility of the enclosure vibrating against the hard surface of my desk. I tested it without the foam pads as well and it did just fine.

Print complete. It's working really nicely in a 2.1 setup. I tried standing it upright on my glass table, had to lie it down again before it walked itself off the edge of the table. What was the dsp you used in the video?

Cool. I'm just printing a version modified to print as one piece without bridging. I'll share the F360 files when it's done.

Cool. I'm just printing a version modified to print as one piece without bridging. I'll share the F360 files when it's done.

Hi! First of all, thank you for sharing. I'm a machinist and it may be possible for me to mill this out of aluminium. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks in advance!

I'd like to see that. Acoustically, it may exhibit some "ringing" at higher frequencies, but as a subwoofer, it shouldn't be playing those anyhow. Either way, go for it!

Hi -this is a great weekend project for me, I spent several good years of my younger self working in the R&D dept of a de-funk well known audio company and I’m intrigued by your “little giant”!
Would industrial silicone work as a good sealant with the type of filament that was use to print the enclosure?

Awesome Job. I have just ordered 4 of these sub-woofers. I unfortunately also have and Ender 3. Is there a chance you can resize to 220X220 without reducing the driver size? I'm sure it will be appreciated by many.

Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure - Smaller

hi ! it's awsome ! first, i have the same prob than h_2_o, my ender 3 is too small... i'm about to slice in 4 parts and glue them (don't know if i do well). secondary, my knowledge in audio are vey week, can you give some advices about an amp and a filter that could be attach to make it active ? i'm clearly talking about electronics, 3d mods are a plus

Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure - Smaller

awesome job and a minor request please. if you do another or can even modify the design of this one to fit the bed of an ender 3 or other 220x220 printer it would be crazy awesome.

Tang Band W3-1876S Subwoofer Enclosure - Smaller

wow, I just stumbled on your YouTube channel (subbed) and saw this! I'm going to pop it into cura to see how much this costs to print :)

How about some theory behind the design? I'd love to learn how you achieved the final result? How do you design the waveguide itself? Is there any particular software you use? Or is it all math on a napkin ? Dzieki!!

Love this idea and the design is awesome, slightly sad it barely doesn't fit on my 230x230mm bed! Is it feasible/easy to tweak it to a more square design, or are there acoustic reasons to have it slightly rectangular? I'm tempted to just hack off 10mm and give it a go anyways.

Thanks for this one ! I only have one question : why doing 2 parts and not only one block that could avoid all the gluing process ?
(and maybe sound even better ?)

Cheers !

This model is designed from the ground up to be reproduced using the FDM method. As such, printing each half on its back eliminates any instance of bridges or overhangs, thus no sagging layers, thus nothing to impede the flow of air. Cheers!


The Tang Band W3-1876S are nigh on impossible to find in the UK, are there any other drivers you'd recommend at all?


www sineaudio co uk

Official distributor for TB in UK

Perfect! They don't have anything listed currently, but I'll email them, thank you!

Post how you get on, ill ill one one or two

Thank you - just brilliant!

Very easy, on a real prusa mk3 the bed is not 200x200 but 210x250

Great job.Thank you. :)