Buzzsaw Vases

by BenitoSanduchi Dec 19, 2012
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the data is "brocken"
I don't have a hole in the vases :(

It's a solid model that requires a slicer that can print zero infill and no top layers. To make a vase, all you want are perimeters.

What nozzle temp did you use for these prints? Also what print speed?

Wow those colors are amazing!! It's so nice to see sophisticated coloring - and the Taulman 618 looks very promising. Cheers!

I showed a buddy these pics and we want to pour one in bronze. How big are they in inches or Millimeters?

They're all roughly 100mm max in any dimension. It's very easy to scale STLs though, so that's simple to change.

I've ordered some, so I guess I'll know soon, but... how rigid or flexible is the 618 nylon? Is it soft and rubbery? Relatively rigid? I don't even know what the units are for flexibility...

Not rubbery at all, but pliable. Like with the stretchy bracelets on Tverse you can stretch them way out and they don't break and return to their original shape. But it's also very tough and hard to bend when you print it thicker and with lots of infil. Taulman has some hammer strie tests on his website that demonstrate the resilience well. It's good stuff.

What settings do you use to print hollow? Makerware wants to close the top...

In Slic3r you can shut off the top solid layers before you slice the model. Not sure about Makerware. With skeinforge and RepG all I know how to do is turn the printer off when it starts to bridge or edit the top layers out of the gcode.

In Skeinforge you can disable the 'fill' module, and it will just generate the edges but not the top or bottom. For example, the "stretchy bracelet" is really a squiggly disk - if you don't disable the 'fill' module you end up with a very odd hockey puck. Disabling fill eliminates infill, including top and bottom, so the resulting vases would not be too useful.

Alternatively, you could model it as a thin object. That's tricky using OpenSCAD, for example, but high end 3D modeling packages have commands for exactly these cases.

Thanks, laird. It will be nice if/when skeinforge has an option for this also.
There are a few reasons why I don't post these things as vessels to begin with.
First, since layer width changes with layer height and nozzle diameter, allowing the slicing program to trace the outline of a solid object produces a more consistant and perfectly solid wall in my experience. On these vases, for example, modeling in the wall thickness cold very easily end up with slic3r deciding it has to put a tiny blob of infill on every single sharp angle if it determines that there will be a gap there due to the layer width.
And then there's file size and slicing time. If you've ever tried to slice a pre-walled vessel or bracelet you know what I mean. Takes forever comparatively.
Lastly, it leaves the number of perimeters up to the individual. A well-calibrated printer can usually pull of single walled prints, but not so if there's z-wobble. Or if there are overhangs that don't require support but do require multiple perimeters, you can figure out what works best for your set-up.
You probably know all that already, laird, but just in case people are wondering why I (and many others) always post solid models to be printed hollow. Seems counterintuitive, but for now, seems to be the best way to go.

Still waiting for my filament...I can't wait.

I was thinking of buying some RIT dye. But I noticed they have 500 colours! Any base colours you would recommend (since they can be mixed)?


I haven't tried mixing them yet so I don't know. I bought the three colors of liquid dye they had at Ace hardware: Evening Blue, Dark Green, and Scarlet. Figured the liquid would be easier/less messy to work with. But yeah it seems like the possibilities are endless. Not only can you mix colors, but you can soak for varying lengths of time. One piece I dyed blue in a heated stew pot for a couple hours. It's almost black but still shimmers in the light the way this filament does, while the vase in the upper left of the main pic above was only in the blue dye mix, at room temp, for about five minutes.

Beautiful work as always! Oh, and Hey I never got around Thanking you for putting up a review over at: http://reprap.org/wiki/Printing_Material_Suppliershttp://reprap.org/wiki/Printin...

Its really great if awesome contributing artists as yourself put reviews on the material you are working with, as it's benefits both a creator and the whole supplier chain. Gives me a good bump to keep enhancing the reprapwiki that way as well! Thanks!

I'm glad you mentioned that it worked with the spring loaded extruder since that's what I have. What dye did you use? I just received several acid dyes from Dharma Trading while waiting for my Taulman NYLON to arrive. Did you use vinegar or citric acid? I'm not sure it that's just for wool and stuff, or nylon, too.

I used RIT in water with a little bit of vinegar. Don't exactly have it down to a science yet in terms of soak time, but it works really well. Works faster when heated, but still works when room temp. Ran a dyed piece through the dishwasher today just to test and color didn't change.

Your models show dyeing works, and will really improve the look of our models with endless color choices. Great job!

The ones on the far left and right. Look like the tire treads from a monster truck! :)

Love them, great colours too.

Have you tried dying anything yet?