FSR Groove Mount

by edlep Jul 6, 2014
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Hi, can you tell me where I can find the .stl files for the fan mounts?

Which Push Fitting are you using.. My 3mm ones don't seem to fit the hole in the middle.

Yes, you're right, it is not precised but it is for a 1.7mm (4mm OD) ptfe tube.

Where did you get your push fitting for the end? i have some 3mm ones but they don't seem to thread in..

This is very clever! Took me a few minutes to work out how it all hooks up and works. I've printed one, and it came out fine. My one question is why are the holes through which the spring-screw goes different sizes on the effector and the FSR groove mount components? Do you have any recommendations for screw length and spring type? Thanks for this contribution!

Holes are bit larger in the lower part to avoid to block the screews.
I used 6mm diameter and 22mm length springs. For the screws, I used 40mm M3.


I love the design the second I saw the FSR systems I wanted one but I cannot loose my HeatBed. Your solution is perfect. I am just wondering how fast you print and if you have had any issues with the nozzle tilting during high speed moves and tripping the FSR's ??? Just questions I am going to be printing the parts tomorrow to give it a spin.. :)

The full heigth version is more stable and allows speeds > 60mm/sec without problem (with the springs enough compressed).

I love this idea, but I'm a bit unfamiliar in how this works mechanically. It looks like the "bottom" piece is rigid and attached to your end effector, and the 'top' is just pushed down on the FSR via springs? And the impact of the nozzle touching the bed is enough to trigger the FSRs?

I ask since I don't have your exact set-up, and would need to reproduce your scheme (which I love! One less FSR, and more reliability) locally.


Actually, the bottom part is not fixed but just maintained on the effector by the top part (which is effectively pushed down on it via spings). The nozzle has a rigid link to the bottom part. The bottom part is pulled up (against the top one) when the nozzle is touching the bed, which raises the pressure measured by the FSR (between the two parts).

OK, so that makes sense - but how do you bind the hot end to your "bottom" part? It looks like you have grooves in there, but I'm unsure how you secure the hot end to the effector.

For reference, my effector has a groove in it, I'm securing it using two lasercut pieces that I screw into, but it won't work with your effector. I'm trying to figure out how to modify the design to work, or even understand if I need to.

Oh; maybe I see in your diagram - you actually have two screws that go into the holes on the side, holding the hot end by the groove itself... Is that right? On another note, do you notice your prints coming out fine? I worry that having any amount of flexibility in the hot end will cause my parts to not come out reliably.

Yes, the hot end is blocked with two lateral screws.
No problem with the quality of the prints (even with high travel speeds).

Very nice work, I think I will try to go this route because I want to use FSR's and a heated bed. Is that an E3D V5? I have a V6 that I would like to use. I don't know if you use sketchup but if so can you provide the files so I can mode them? Thanks.

I added the stl for the effector.

Thanks so much for that! Just FYI, the effector you added has the normals flipped. Using netfabb.azurewebsites.net appears to fix it however.

You're right. I forgot to flip the normals of the original imported stl. It is fixed now.

I don't use sketchup but freecad...
Anyway I will post in the next days a new version that I use with both E3D V5 and V6.

Thanks. The V6 is only a slightly different "neck" dimension than the V5 but its enough that mounts are generally not interchangeable. Also, I looked thru the thing you had linked for the effector you are using but your picture still looks slightly different. It looks like yours holds the trax joints on one side but theirs uses a complete thru bolt. I guess it doesn't matter as long as the holes line up, but if you wanted to post the STL shown in your pictures, that would be awesome. Thanks again.

Great design! Do you have a stl for the effector mount you used in the picture? It seems bigger than the one I am currently using. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks. Actually it is derived from the Kossel ALT traxx effector from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:154832http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Kossel Alt - 20mm extrusion - 8mm smooth rods

Thanks. Would've found that out if i did google translate.

les MGN12H se fixe correctement sur les 2020?
et derniere question, quel effector utilise tu pour monter ton système?

J'ai utilisé les pièces de la kossel alt http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:154832http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Kossel Alt - 20mm extrusion - 8mm smooth rods

Quand je regarde les plans des rails MGN12H, les trou de fixation sont en 3mm or les plus petits écrou marteau pour mes profilés sont en 4 mm. Je vais devoir repercé les rails ou bien il y'a une astuce?
Ok pour les pièces de la kossel ALT , mais tu utilise les carriage de la kossel normal? Ton effector est légèrement différent de la kossel ALT, tu peux partager ton stl?
Je sais ca fais beaucoup de question mais je me prépare à modifier la mienne donc je veux pas me planter :p

très bonne idée les FSR sur la tête.
C'est une kossel en prolilé de 20*20? si oui quel type de rail a tu utilisé?
La hotend est une E3d V5?

Oui c'est une Kossel avec profilés 20x20. A l'origine, j'avais utilisé ces rails http://www.igus.fr/wpck/1976/drylin_n_NK_02_17http://www.igus.fr/wpck/1976/d... pour une question de prix, mais il y avait un peu de jeu au niveau des patins, donc j'ai fini par opter pour les classiques MGN12H (trouvés sur AliExpress à un prix abordable) qui sont évidemment beaucoup mieux.
Et oui, E3D v5.

les MGN12H se fixe correctement sur les 2020?
et derniere question, quel effector utilise tu pour monter ton système?
si tu d'autres photo de ta kossel, ou meme les stl pour les frames , je suis preneur. Ma kossel en 1515 est assez flexible

Great idea! I know this is awfully rude, but any chance of a version with a locator hole radius of 30 rather than 25? If it's too hard, I will hack something together with openscad. Nice design though.