Modification of electrical fixtures and appliances is done at your own risk
These are the parts I designed in order to convert an inexpensive, modular table lamp to a ceiling fixture.
The table lamps themselves are great, the branches and bulbs use the same socket base so you can create your own tree-like lamp structure and change it up at any time.
This mod has the lamp running 120 volt bulbs into the house electrical rather than 12 volt bulbs via the included adapter. If you are not comfortable making this change please refrain from undertaking this modification.
While this modification allows you to purchase multiple lamps in order to add more bulbs to one ceiling fixture please take into account the combined wattage of the bulbs that you are using to limit the number of branches and bulbs you include.
Tenergy Lumi Bloom Table Lamp
Alternate 120 Volt Bulbs
This lamp uses 12 volt bulbs, the base of which are longer than 120 volt bulbs. That being the case, 120 volt candelabra-size bulbs will not screw deep enough into the sockets to make the required connection.
To solve this problem I designed a threaded spacer with a hole in the center into which I glued about 3mm of the base of a nail (all but 2mm or so of the pin cut off).
The flat of the nail sits on the center connection of the socket when the shim is screwed in and the pin of the nail is what the bulb's center lead will sit on when the bulb is screwed in. The nail bridges the electrical connection while the spacer screws tight into the socket and prevents any shorts. I used nails labelled 1" 2d and Krazy Glue. The nails friction fit quite well, but to be extra caution I glue them anyway. Both the cap and tip of the nail may need to be scraped or sanded after gluing to ensure a good connection.
While one of these shims will be required for each 120 volt candelabra bulb you use with this lamp, when you're connecting a branch to a socket rather than a bulb you will have to remove the shim. Consequently when you are re-configuring the lamp you'll end up shuffling the shims from socket to socket.
When inserting these shims, screw them in reverse a couple turns to get them level, then they should screw in properly. Don't tighten to hard or you'll risk cracking the shim, snug is good to make the connection.
These shims have a slot so that a flat-head screwdriver can be used to insert and remove them. *Ensure the power to the light is off before remove or inserting any bulbs, shims, or branches.
To use this lamp as a ceiling fixture you must remove the base plate and power adapter socket. Then you can print this shim which will brace the lamp against your ceiling and has holes 89mm apart for connecting to the electrical fixture box in your ceiling. This shim acts as a brace that allows you to tighten the fixture without fear of bowing the plastic base.
Once you've printed this shim and checked against your electrical box you can use the holes as guides to drill through the base of the lamp. Drill slowly, and I wouldn't recommend a punch of any sort since it might crack the plastic.
This cap and cover allow you to hide the bolts which must go through the base and the shim to connect the lamp to your ceiling electrical fixture box. Insert the bolt into the base, mount the lamp, then place the cover on the base. It should friction fit and give a nice finished look to the fixture.
This small piece is to fill the opening left after you remove the 12 volt adapter socket from the base. It simply slides into place.
I print rafts with most things, these included, other than that these models are quite simple and you shouldn't run into any issues.