Up! Plus+ Enclosure

by DytHlt, published

Up! Plus+ Enclosure by DytHlt Dec 23, 2012


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*Updated 1/6/13

Printable Enclosure Frame for UP! Plus+
Front is hinged to swing away for acess to the build platform.
Does not cover electronics


All the individual STL Files can be found in the .zip file.
Please note, the enclosure requires (2x) Part #4. Print 2 of these.
All parts have their number stamped into the inside corner/face so you don't loose track of what's what.
Use your favorite Filament Spool Holder and Filament Clip, But note that the OEM one will not work.
Be cautious during prints. The sharp edges have a tendency to lift/warp out of their support material until 4 or 5 layers are printed on top of them. Orient them to print best on your setup.

Parts Needed:
You will need 10 M3x10mm Screws. (possibly a few longer ones as well, depending on your filament and spool holders)
.093" Acrylic or Polycarbonate Sheet, commonly available at Home Depot.

Print All Parts
Cut out the windows to the correct size shown in the pictures. The measurements are exact size, I reccomend you minus ~1 or 2 mm to give yourself some clearance.
Screw 1, 1B, 2B, 6, and 6B onto printer.
Dry fit all other pieces together on the printer with the windows in place before gluing anything together.
Take Pictures and Post!

Thanks to gillespinault for creating the laser cut window files.

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Up enclosure for up 2 avaible (remix from this one)


Ok guys, i'm an owner of the up plus 2 too, and i just make a post on sketchup forum to ask if someone can help to modify the rear panel due to the problem of sensor.

For now, the only solution than i see is to make 4 more piece number 4, cut in half and added this to the rear than the enclosure will become compatible.

Will let you know if things move and if i will be able to make things more properly.

Hello DytHlt and others,
Fantastic enclosure you have created here. I have recently purchased the Up plus 2 and am keen to print and build this box for it. However, I may need some help...
The Up Plus 2 has an additional bed height sensor on the back of the build plate that sticks out 2.5cm at the rear. Thus I think that this enclosure will be too short when the bed is fully to the rear and there will be physical interference.

Thus I was wondering if you (or some other skilled CAD Samaritan!) could please re-list some of the STL part files to be 2.5 or 3cm longer in the rear for all us PLUS 2 owners, so we can share this great design? The acrylic will also need adjusting, but I can do that myself. ...Unfortunately I do not have CAD program skills, so am reliant on wizards like yourself to assist.

Thank you in advance for your or any other's assistance to develop a modification for Up PLUS 2 owners.

Kind regards,

3DPrintClean is developing an Odor and Ultrafine Particle filtration attachment for DIY enclosures. Would make a great addition. See http://3dprintclean.com/3dprintclean-scrubber.htm - Disclosure, I am the founder of 3DPrintClean.

may seem like a silly question but when attaching parts 1, 1B, 2B, etc. to the printer, do you remove the current screws in place? I'm new to 3d printing and don't want to break my new machine. Currently printing this enclosure for my up plus 2.

Yes, you have to remove the existing screws that are in the way of where the plastic parts screw on. Only remove the screws needed to install one part at a time, install that part with the new screws described in the instructions before removing any more screws. This way none of the panels fall off.

is there any need to have a sliding cover to seal the large hole at the top that the exruder head enters?

I have been using mine for 2 years now without covering this hole. Works great as is.

I have downloaded but the merged print set ups are not there file names but 0 size.
Also I like the design but think that a filet on the edges instead of a chamfer would print better. I have sketchup but do not use it so will need to play with it to change .

"I have downloaded but the merged print set ups are not there file names but 0 size."

I'm not sure what you mean. Everything in the download is working for me, try re-downloading.

There are several things that could improved. Feel free to make the changes, unfortunately I have other projects I'm working on and don't have time put any more work into this one.

Ummm, my heated bed carped out. The connector burned out to be more precise, during an overnight print. This printer doesn't get a break thats for sure. It shouldn't be from the enclosed space since the Afinia guys put the shipping box over the printer to protect against drafts.

Mine did the same thing, twice, before I had the enclosure. I have found that the soldering jobs on that connector inside the platform arm to be very very poor. If your good at soldering, I recommend removing both cables, and re-soldering the connector. If your not comfortable with that, I would not recommend it, since if you accidentally switch one of the heater wires with the sensor wire, you will likely destroy your motherboard and cpu. (which replacements are ridiculously over priced)

nice work, so plug side soldered OK, but socket side needs to be re-done, thanks again...

Thanks for the heads up. I will check the soldering on the boards when I receive them to make sure. Still great product no worries.

It works like a charm I must say. Thank you again

Glad to hear it.

I finally got it all done and printed. Mind you I'm on my 3rd extruder assembly.
I started going nuts with the glue and now the front top panel is a tricky thing to place so I left it on top.
Can you post a pic of the thing opened to get an idea of which panels move how?
Either way great product, Afinia and Up need to offer this as an option or have it on their spares list.
Thank a bunch once more.

I'm jealous, I still don't have mine done since my printer broke 1/2 through this project and has been at the supplier being repaired. I should be getting it back this friday though, YAY!
Since I don't have mine, I took a picture in sketchup showing the hinge actuated. (Obviously, you don't want to glue the pin)

Ah, well then. That's not how mine opens lol. I thought of that and I didn't want to take a chance on the huge overhang and weight once opened. As far as the pins go, no i didn't lol but they did go in snug, at least half way in.
For the first time I turned off my space heater during a print, and now I can't wait to see if there are any cracks. I'll let you know how it all works out.

Any chance that part 4 can be made in 2 parts or have them together but not intertwined? I can print those edges to save my life, so I need to get the flat part on the table at any cost. Let me know if you help in that regard pls. Thanks.

PS: Printing the parts one at a time with fine setting and 50 degrees is working great. As long as the space heater is blowing warm air on the build platform that is.

If you have sketchup, you can download the .skp and pull out the single #4 part, otherwise i can do it when i get home and upload it for you.

I modified the file so part #4 is just one piece.

Brilliant! Thanks allot.

From what I can see this works for the Afinia printer as well. And i have been trying to print this for some time now without any success. The problem i'm getting is with the sharp edge parts which either printer in mid air and fail or dont stick and fail. I have a heater to avoid warping and cracking which works really well but still no luck on this print.

Any chance you can post the support setup parameters you have? I'll give it one last try that way.
Thanks in advance.

There is no difference between the Afinia and the Up! except for branding.

DytHlt - in reply to

And Color! ;)

Using OEM filament, I set my support angle to 50 degrees, and quality=fine.

Download the Up_Plus_Enclosure_Parts.zip. Then, try printing one piece at a time, rather than one of the multi part prints, and rotate it so a flat part is touching the platform.

Good advice. Its printing the parts nicely one at a time with a space heater gently blowing on the build platform.
One thing I did notice is the first raft sometimes goes outside the build platform or even on the flat head screws I use to keep the perf board in place. Since I'm new to Afinia do you use a different setting for the raft so it doesn't build so far outside the part?
Thanks again for the help and love the no screws design idea.

There is not much you can do about that, the software automatically makes the raft slightly larger than the part. What you can do is try and turn the part at an angle, since the build platform is larger from corner to corner.

Hi DytHlt and thanks for the amazing work!

I am printing all the parts and being an Up! newbie I have to admit I have quite a lot of misprint, mainly due to wraping (which I guess/hope your enclose will solve!).

  1. Could you share some advices on the settings you are using (Layer thickness, support, speed, special tricks, ...).

  2. I am currently using ABS, is it what you are using as well or would you advise PLA instead?

I am using ABS from PP3DP, 0.2mm Layer thickness, Fine Speed, 50 degree support, Second to the smallest infill.
If your having issues with warping, I recommend printing off all the parts one piece at a time, rather than the 4 condensed prints I made. Whenever you can, make the part stand up tall. Also, do what you can to keep the build area warm, some people have just put a box over the printer to keep the heat in.

Once your enclosure is done, warping issues should not be a problem. I had most of the prints done, and was able to put the enclosure mostly together with some tape (temporarily) and the few large pieces I had left did not warp at all once I did this.

Hi DytHlt!

I could have perfect prints by using a hair dryer (at low speed) toward the build platform :o)

I went for 0.35mm layer thickness and Regular speed in order to reduce print time. It is still very acceptable.

The panels are laser cut out of "crystal polystyrene" (I can send you the panel files if you are interested to share them).

I'll share the pictures as soon as it is assembled.

Thanks a lot!!!

Ya, upload them as a derivative and I'll download and re-upload them on this page if you don't mind.

ok, it's done!
It all works well but I have a slight problem: the clips holding the plate are touching the rear panel whew initialising the printer and they can touch the front panel when printing thing completly at the back.
Wouldn't it be good to add a centimeter front and back to avoid the problem?

Oh, I didn't think about that. I have been using the perfboard with screws, so no clips.
You might want to edit the sketchup file to make it fit the way you need it to.

UPDATE I have found the top row of brackets were getting hit by the
build platform when printing objects that utilize the entire build
platform (front to back). Made the top row of parts taller to fix this.
If you have allready printed off the entire set of brackets, all you
need to print off for this fix is part numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,
and Pin. (or just the 2 updated prints) All Files have been updated
with the new parts.

*Be cautious during prints number 1 and 2. The sharp edges have a tendency to lift/warp out of their support material until 4 or 5 layers are printed on top of them.

If your print platform is thin enough, I recommend printing the Alternate versions of 1 and 2, so that the tall pieces are standing up, rather than laying down. I was having some serious issues with warping with them laying down.

Wow!! The plating of all the parts is genius and super thoughtful m8!! Thanks a ton for your hard work and sharing!!

Do I really have to go install sketchup to figure out how big the windows are? :-)

DytHlt - in reply to

No... Look at the pictures.



The Completed Sketchup file is uploaded if anybody wants to start printing, I imagine its going to take a while. ;)
I will upload .STLs tomorrow.

I'm working on organizing all of the pieces to fit as many on a single print as possible, and also orient them to reduce as much side to side movement as possible, to reduce wobble on the tall parts.

Just keep in mind, its not done yet, so all the pieces aren't in the skp.

You just saved me a lot of trouble!