Full Scale Stormtrooper Helmet (wearable)

by Geoffro Jul 11, 2014
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I really want to print this in fewer pieces I have 300 x 300 x 400 print bed so in theory if cut in half (sideways i.e back of helmet as one piece and front of helmet the other) I think could print this in 2 halves which would be perfect.

However I can't cut it in half in Cura and when I open it in Fusion 360 I also have issues cutting it in half.

Has anyone split it straight down the middle (front and back) and if so can you point me in the the direction of the file?

Many thanks in advance.


Hi James,

try this file, should work great:


Good luck, and happy printing!

Storm Trooper Full Size helmet in two pieces
by Zaytas

Super, I had found that, just about to start printing, I can fit it at 99% on my Creality CR10s Pro, treating myself to a new coated nozzle before I embark on this mammoth print session!

Many thanks


Grandisimo trabajo. Enhorabuena

Has someone printed the bust in one piece? I have an Ender 3.

yes, I have! see my 'made' at 0.4mm layer height with a 08mm nozzle! On a Anycubic Chiron

Did someone print this on ender 3 , that he can upload cura profile, please

yes, I have! see my 'made' at 0.4mm layer height with a 08mm nozzle! On a Anycubic Chiron - i just used the basic settings that anycubic provided in their manual except changing up the layer height, nozze size for filament and wall thickness.

I have a CR 10S5 with a 500x500x500 build volume, does anyone know how to just print the helmet all at once instead of 16 different pieces?

I printed mine in one go on an anycubic Chiron. See my 'made'

If you look at the download package, there's the full helmet. Just slice that as one big model and your done. You'll probably use 4lbs of support for it.

I want to scale this down for a 10 year old. any guide of size etc?

Does Part7 require supports? If it does, S3D seems to create a ton of supports for that part.

Does Part7 require supports? If it does, S3D seems to create a ton of supports for that part.


I've just seen the AR glasses of leap motion and I thing that they will fit awesomely into the helmet.

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can you print this on anet a8?

So I put this in meshmixer and sliced a thin section just below the eyes. You can print this in one piece in about 20 minutes on a big enough bed to see how much you need to scale it. Scale is 100% of original model size so go from there.

Oh if you want to make it print even quicker, scale the Y on it's own down to maybe 50%. Does it even faster and you can still use it as a guide.

Is it at all likely we will ever get a Rogue One version with the vent indentations?

hello, great job,
someone can reexplicar to me as they are placed or for that they serve the "eyes comforters"

Can someone post a pic of how they added foam inside the helmet. I’m looking for best ways to do this.
Also, how did everyone glue if using PLA


Can anyone suggest the best way to print to top of the helmet. Too many supports.

If you lay it more flat the layers will look horrible, so just print it standing and tune the overhang angle to limit the supports. Also you can lower the support density since you're probably not interested in the print quality of the inside of the helmet.

Thanks a lot. Working well now.

Hey what did you lower the support density too :)

Hi. This might been asked before, but what people sice are the costume made for? I'm about 167cm tall and 63kg total weight. How much chould I shrink the pices?. Might be hard with just the two factors, but you might have some information to get me started. Looks great by the way :D

aren't you a little short to be a stormtrooper?

So, I haven't printed this (yet!). Model looks really awesome, good job man. Lots of incredible results posted.
I have a few questions though, and sorry about these, I'm a nerd.

Is this authentic to ANH or ESB or more of a free-form storm trooper helmet?
I'm also curious if anyone has had this approved by the 501st and if any modifications were required?

Is anyone else getting this sizing issue? when imported into S3D 100% Scale

Also if yes any possible fixes?

Any help is much appreciated

Happy Printing

xd i´m loving this model from 2018 even after a long time has passed people still like this! I´TS AWESOME MAN!!

Just finished printing this at 95 % scale. For those wondering about it looking so large, I'm 5'7" and about 150 lbs with I would say an average to slightly narrow head...why does it sound funny saying that? ☺ anyways there is just enough room for me to get my head in at this scale so I think its perfect for me. Once the helmet is on it is very roomy and of course will need some foam padding for a snug fit. Remember this is a helmet, not a mask so it will seem large as just a shell, pretty much any real helmet would as well. Hope this helps give some frame of reference to anyone who was wondering.Oh, also I printed with 15% percent infill and a fairly thick shell of 0.9. The thick shell but lower infill gave a great combo of good strength and light weight. Peace fellow fanatics!

How do I resize it according to perimeter of my head? My cap measures 22". Trying to figure how to resize this.

Why is this available for commercial use, but most of Geoffro's helmets are not?

What are you folks using for lens material? Any of the bubble lenses fit? I'm trying to not have to mold something myself...

If I print the full helmet file, which additional accessory files will I need to print?

Have started printing this on an XYZ da Vinci Mini. 10 hours in and three parts already complete. All parts can fit without any further division.

Hi, which parts have you done? I have the same printer and part no 1 is looking at being 30 hours!

I printed this on a UP mini 2 - lets see - I had to reduce the size to .8 for all parts - I printed with 65% infill , .3mm , raft and no support on parts 1,2,9,10,11,12 ( but 11 and 12 had to be rotated to fit on the build plate ) - all the parts with overhang kinda worked but i used a slurry to repair and connect the parts. - it is still printing parts as I write this - each part is taking about 2 - 3 hours to print. I am also printing on kap tape with a slurry mix thinly applied. -

Let me know how it all turns out since I to have the UP mini 2

It turned out well but - since the printer cannot print it at full size - I had alot of work to make it correct size - I also used alot of slurry to fill gaps and get it to fit... I made it transparent ...

Do you need support for these print?

Slice it first and see, it all depends on how good your printer is really. some parts will need it but most you don't at all, I would suggest using a raft on some pieces however to ensure they do not get knocked off the plate during printing

Is there any way to print the whole helmet in one piece? I have a 500x500x500 build volume.

I have the Monoprice mini v2 (120 x 120) will this fit? if not would you be fine if i remix this to fit a 120 x 120 build plate. I will give you credit of course.

STOLEN MODEL, have you respect to another designers ???

can you create your own models ?????????????????

@Medelis Pot, kettle, black ........
What a muppet !!

Those links you posted were not even close to the design that Geoffro did. Stop whining.
All you are doing is making more enemies.

Since you copy/pasted spam all over my makes, I am going to copy and past the same response, which is the reason you are here crying like a brat.

You got caught. Deal with it.

Your store was taken down for selling my and others models from here and Myminifactory. You know I had a part in having your store taken down, so you attack me, little do you know there was about 20 people involved, but hey... I guess someones gotta take the fodder.

Anyone only needs take a quick look at your fairly tasteless makes to realize you are a bit of a nutjob.

Anyone got any ideas on how to get the tube stripes correct? Do people just buy a template or do them by hand? I have another coat of white to put on and then I'm on to the scary painting. I've made the mic tips, eye perspex and ear details so the tube stripes and the rest of the helmet detailing are what I'm facing next.

Well, the nurse slapped you on the wrong end at birth didn't she..

If people actually spend 10 minutes going through those, they will see that they are absolutely not even close..

Like WTF is with that predator head? that is awful - seriously. I'm more offended you said I stole such a bad version of the head... Did you not see mine? like it's chalk and cheese you mong.

like..really, how can you compare this:
To this:

Cmon, really? it's so far off it's like you are just grasping at straws now. I took my predator down remember because YOU WERE SELLING IT ..

Honesty, I am convinced you have some serious mental issues, I don't think I can rationalize with you, it's just fucking impossible and you make this place a nightmare to even log onto.

For the record, everyone will note his CG Trader account has had ALL MODELS REMOVED FROM SALE - not just the ones he ripped off me, but all of them. They were ALL taken from here without permission and being sold on there.
https://www.cgtrader.com/medelis What we're seeing here is his retaliation for being caught, not only childish but damaging.

you're an idiot, really. Please actually go and look at a model and not just pick one you found on google? lol

I printed. Is it the actual actual scale size of a stormtrooper helmet? It seems big.. but I guess I have no padding in it to hold it in place yet.

The padding will help make it feel right

Thanks man i printed it i am very happy with the result thanks

I made this one and put together some quick instructions on how to make it look good!

Hi, how mutch material does it take to make this/

I used about 1 and a half rolls ( estimate ) - I think I did 30% infill

Thanks Geoffro, sorry that I can't post a picture because my phone camera is acting up. I won our workplace may the fourth be with you contest and got a certificate for a hamburger!

Printed parts 1,2,3 and 4 in the last 24 hours, gotta say I'm really impressed! No supports needed for them either! good work! will post up a final model once I'm done!

I just started part 1 and I'm so excited. Thanks for the plans. I'll update as I go down this path of awesomeness. Thanks for all the hard work.

I will be printing your helmet and converting it into a 2 piece welders helmet our of abs. Will post pictures when it's done. Thank you for all your has work that went into this.

I got a question, the domes parts ( parts 1, 2, 9, 10 ) need a support ?
Thanks for the answer =)

Excellent print. Thank you so much. A tip for others printing this: a raft is needed for parts 9,10, 15, and 16. My Printer would shake the part loose during printing, Besides that, I have assembled the helmet and will post pictures after it is is painted. Thanks for the great model!

I've printed the first 2 pieces at 100% but they have come out different sizes and do not line up perfectly at the top (rim is fine as is the height). I wondered if anyone can confirm this is correct and the next pieces will take that into consideration in staggered seams or of if i've probably printed it with an error - as i really dont want to wast loads of pla? Thanks!

No this is not correct, either you have adjusted slicer settings in between or rescaled the part.

ah ok, thanks for getting back to me, appreciated. Great model btw, i must have had a brain fart :)

any other model I would be going over it with a fine tooth comb but we have about 75 makes here, about another 70 on other sites, thats a total of about 4000 odd parts from this that have been printed, I think I would have been email-raped if there was anything too wrong with it :)

After a lot of head scratching, i loaded the .stl files into a different slicer, it appears Makerbot has been resizing one of the parts 1 and 2 from 124.50mm to 122.34mm while leaving the other untouched.. Failed a few prints because of this!

Makerware requires resizing to 100.8 percent for any model you print in it. It is not your printer, it is Makerware.

It does it to me on my flashforges and my CTC machines as well, I need to scale everything up to 100.8 percent if using makerware, but I rarely use it alt all these days as Simplyfy3D exports it at the correct scale.

HI , first great work.

I am looking to print this but I was wonder if you recommend PLA or ABS and or supports need for all or just some of the parts?
also how many spools of Filament would you say it would tale to print all the pieces?

PLA is more brittle than ABS so if you're planning to drop it, use ABS. Otherwise, PLA is ton easier to work with. You're going to need supports on all the parts except the accessories (unless you're proficient at bridging successfully). A good rule of thumb is if there is an overhang of more than about 45/50 degrees, use supports. With 20% infil, it took me 1kg worth of filament to print.

Will This work with a 220x220x240mm build size? Are any of the pieces bigger than that? I have a Anet A8

yes no problem

Awesome! Thank you!

93 hours / 300g for just one part, I'd rather buy this

even reduced, it gets to 60 hours / 250g

No offense but you must be doing something wrong sorry, no part should take more than about 7 hours, max 10 EVEN if you are using 0.1 layer height.

Can one of the other hundred or so people that have printed this also confirm that no part took them 90 odd hours to print?

In fact, I really dont know how you even got it to get to a 90 hour print for a part like really.. were you printing at 0.01ms feed rate?

I can confirm that no part took 93 hours, even on my humble Anet A8. Maybe you have your settings set to 100% infil, 0.1 layer height, 100% support, 10mm/s speed?

Cool, thanks for the free helmet! I'll make sure to give you credit.

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What did you guys take for the eye glass, so that you can look through? Transparent filament and then applying what?

Could buy a pair of $5 mirrored sunglasses and cut to fit

just use transparent plastic, I'd use dark+green transparent plastic sheets
no way you could see through printed plastic

I'd like to know this one too. I'm 4 parts in so far. I found some transparent black, but from the reviews it looks like it prints like a smokey glass.

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I am printing the first part now. So far it looks great, my grandson already wants to know when I am going to print him one.

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What filament would you recommend for this? PLA or ABS?

What filament would you recommend for this? PLA or ABS?

fantastic job as always now all we need is the rest of the armour to go with it (hint,hint)

Could you post a version which is separated into less pieces? I use my school's 3D printer, and I'd like to print it in at most 4 pieces.
Thanks for any help. :-)

Could you post a version which is separated into less pieces? I use my school's 3D printer, and I'd like to print it in at most 4 pieces.
Thanks for any help. :-)

Could you post a version which is separated into less pieces? I use my school's 3D printer, and I'd like to print it in at most 4 pieces.
Thanks for any help. :-)

Could you post a version which is separated into less pieces? I use my school's 3D printer, and I'd like to print it in at most 4 pieces.
Thanks for any help. :-)

Awesome I have one of the Lucas special edition 400 made release helmets and it will be awesome to print this and compare : ) Cheer s Jace

The internet needs answers!

So how did it compare?

Could i get some advices to print it with my BQ Witbox upgraded with the Double Drive Gear extruder?
I am actually slicing with cura 2.1.3, should i change?
0.3 layer height and i dont know what else to say xD

what the best way to assemble the piece of the helmet? I've seen a lot of different peoples opinions what do u think?

I would like to know this as well. I was thinking using acetone.

hi just wanna say amazing build this is.im currently in the process of printing this..four parts down wish me luck haha..much appreciated my friend

Full scale ? what is the dimension in cm ?

See the picture with the dimensions?

At which point (height) of my head should i measure those? Temples / eyebrows / ...?

Thanks in advance

I will start printing it today!

How much plastic/hours of printing are required per print ?
Great design by the way
Oh and also how would this print on a Wanhao i3 V2 printer?

I don't know the size of the Wanhao, but it took ~1.3 kg for me. I used meshmixer to cut down on support material needed. **TUNING SUPPORTS IS KEY! YOU DON'T NEED AS MUCH PLASTIC THEN***
Speaking of time. Meshmixer cuts many parts from what would be 19 hours down to 11.
I didn't measure how much time it took total. I just set them to print when i didn't need anything else.

Comments deleted.

How were you using meshmixer to reduce support materials?

if you use stock support in cura or any other standard slicer to would make a lined or gridded platform all the way up:
Meshmixer builds little tree like structures that branch out when it gets closer to the model to provide the support:

I couldn't find a side by side comparison so i hope the images still work to show the difference.

if you use stock support in cura or any other standard slicer to would make a lined or gridded platform all the way up:
Meshmixer builds little tree like structures that branch out when it gets closer to the model to provide the support:

I couldn't find a side by side comparison so i hope the images still work to show the difference.

if you use stock support in cura or any other standard slicer to would make a lined or gridded platform all the way up:
Meshmixer builds little tree like structures that branch out when it gets closer to the model to provide the support:

I couldn't find a side by side comparison so i hope the images still work to show the difference.

if you use stock support in cura or any other standard slicer to would make a lined or gridded platform all the way up:
Meshmixer builds little tree like structures that branch out when it gets closer to the model to provide the support:

I couldn't find a side by side comparison so i hope the images still work to show the difference.

if you use stock support in cura or any other standard slicer to would make a lined or gridded platform all the way up:
Meshmixer builds little tree like structures that branch out when it gets closer to the model to provide the support:

I couldn't find a side by side comparison so i hope the images still work to show the difference.

Ah great to know! Thanks!

If you do this then be sure to make the bottom of the tree structures to be larger. I had one fall over during a print because it was super small and the print had to be scrapped xD

If you do this then be sure to make the bottom of the tree structures to be larger. I had one fall over during a print because it was super small and the print had to be scrapped xD

I have a build area of 10 x 10 x 10 and wanted to do a custom fitted smaller version for my 5 year old. I thought that would be cool. So my question is can I just print the full version instead of resizing each part?

I would do an overhang test and calibrate support first. You want a clean break away support. If you scale it down the whole model, be sure the INNER diameter is bigger than you 5 yr old's head. after your supports are calibrated nicely, you have good layer adhesion, and have proper dimensions. Print!

As I advance printing it, i have a suggestion, why don't you separate all "black" parts to be printed away?, like the mics one, whouldn't it be good to print the "mouth" black area, the stripes under the nose and the "vents" close to the eyes?, also the black line over the eyes.

Don't know if it would take too much time, or it can complicate a lot the printing split parts, but should be really better for "pro" results (I guess).

If my 3D sculpt skill's wheren't ZERO, I would make a try with the Mouth area.

It would take alot of time with the mask in it's current state because it has been subdivided so heavily, decimated and processed that you are no longer dealing with the original mesh, there are odd vertices all over the shop. It can be done yes, but honestly it would be faster for me to go back to the original mesh, cut out the black parts and go from there - but also as you can see, 50+ people have sorta done ok with it as is, and no ones had many issues with the separate black parts not being separate as anyone who prints this is painting and sanding it. It was not designed to be printed in all the separate colours of filament. No it's not perfect, and yes I should probably revise it but It's cool to see how innovative people are and how they work around those problems - they all have done a pretty outstanding job if you look through the makes. If only I could get a picture of everyone wearing theirs in one pic.. that would be awesome.

Yes, The models needs a lot of post-printing work, but done in separate parts, sometines will help. It's the same as building replica models, sometimes it's better to paint separated parts, and then join them together.

I'll try to make an "extra" to the black parts close to the eyes, to put over the helmet in a 2mm layer, but with my 3D skills...cant promise anything good :D

And I'll never complain about this model. Is the best One I'v found all over the internet, just wondering if it can be even better. :D

It could be better for sure, I just have so many projects going at one time it takes a lot to stop and focus on just one model, I would prefer more quality over quantity.

New one trying to print one. Right Now printing parts 5&6.

Curious thing I'v noticed, Parts 1&2 are in 90º different print position, any special reason? Just asking cose seems strange , but both printed nice.

The design of the Helmet is just amazing. Printing at 90% original size, hope it fits.

hey how did it fit scaled down. it looks gigantic in the pics as is. im getting ready to print it

It's up to you really how they are oriented for print, I just export them ensuring they are flat on the plate.

What is the maximum diameter head size that can fit in this helmet as is? Can it easily be scaled?

Large-headed person here.

I have a large head and it fits well. (It even has enough room for some foam)

do you have a captain rex phase 3 helmet?

I don't do clone wars stuff sorry, Ep IV-EPVI mainly as any thing after that should be forgotten :p

Still, you have Jar-Jar :P

I'm working on this print now. I'm about 2 hours away from finishing part 1 and I have to say, this is taking much longer than I thought it would. Part 1 alone will have taken about 24.5 hours to print, and I did it upside down to reduce the amount of supports needed! Is it taking this long for anyone else?

Another good way to cut down on support is to render supports with MeshMixer

Thanks @brandutchmen! How would I go about doing this?

Meshmixer or the overhang test?
Which slicer are you currently using?

It takes time, However do an overhang test: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:58218
After that, see which angles come out well and adjust the software to not have supports on those angles.
Print time went from 20h to 7.5 hours for me (for part 1)

Overhang Test Print (Customizable)
by walter

Hello, Is it possible to print the helmet in 1 piece on a Lulzbot taz5 ?

Only if your head can fit inside a helmet that is printed within a build area of 290mm x 275mm x 250mm.

How big's your head? :p

about 22cm large , 30cm height and 57m circumference. It is just but impsible to print in one part... wat printer do you use ? I'm looking for a TAZ 5 or an ultimaker 2+

I started printing in december, now i'm waiting for the glue to dry. Thanks for the great file.

1) Would a Makerbot Replicator 2 be big enough to print this helmet.
It states it's a 3D Printer with 2 extruders, LCD interface , heated build platform ,
1.75 mm filament / space 145 x 225 x 150 mm.

2) what sort of quality can I expect for this £300 3D printer.

many thanks, Panoramus

I have experiance with a rep 2.. They aren't the best printers for the price. What £300 printer are you thinking of?

Thanks! I am 6 parts into this print and I have a little lifting/warping but ill fix it during the putty/sanding stage.

I have been able to successfully print part 1 and 2 on my Da Vinci 1.0A with the E3D v6 extruder without needing support for the entire top part. You will need a little support tower at the very top tip where it tries to bridge Y to X but this has shaved off about 4-4.5 hrs from each part.

So awesome. Thank you! :]

This is awesome! I only have a print bed of 10 x 10 x 10cm.

Do you have any files for that size available?

What printer do you have?

PrintrBot Simple Metal

That has 150mm by 150mm by 150mm

This is a GREAT model and thank you for sharing it!

Has anyone successfully printed this on a Robo 3D R1? If so, I'm curious as to what your support settings were. I took the advice of an earlier post and used Meshmix to calculate supports (started with Part 1). Meshmix made this cool little tree-like support, but I had to cancel the print about 30% into it because the tree support failed, i.e. Robo 3D was trying to print it, but it ended up as strings between the support and the actual model. I wanted to save filament by using Meshmix as suggested, but maybe I'm doing something wrong. BTW, I'm using PLA in 0.2mm layers, two shells, 10% infill (hex), and the Meshmix support.

I printed this on the Robo 3d r1...(Pics coming Soon)
I used meshmixer for some supports,
however you should use this to calibrate supports http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12925
I had to tweak some settings (like post diameter and base diameter) to get the tree like structure to come out right.

I also found Cura supports to use too much filament.. but then I lowered the support fill and changed the support angle to the maximum angle I can print.. Then Low cost cura supports! ;)

Bridge Torture Test

AWESOME - thank you so much! Did you use Cura as your slicer when you tested and if so, what speed worked out best for you? I read a bit about it and see that other R1 users are lowering extruder temp to around 190-195. I usually run PLA between 210 and 220, depending on manufacturer.

I use Cura.. I print at 40mm/s outer shell. 50mm/s inner shell, 30 for bottom layer, and 60 for everything else.. I use 10% fill for supports.
Lower extruder temps are better for overhangs.. however that comes with less layer bonding. (split layers)

Sorry to hijack your comments @reilley & @brandutchman, I see your both on the R1 and using Cura I was wondering if you have seen the following size issues with parts? I am also using a Robo 3d R1 printing PLA at 8m nozzle with temps of 210 and 60 for the bed. Parts are loaded as is with no change to size, scale, or orientation. Specifically part 6 is longer than its alignment with part 4, both 7,8 are too small, 11 and 12 are too tall, and 10 is almost a half inch larger than 9 and the front parts 1,2.

Its probably total user error but I was curious if you guys had anything similar. if all else fails Ill just reprint if so what nozzle size are you two using? what filament ABS or PLA?

Thanks again for any info and apology for the hijack

Also just a shout out this is a great file, thank you @Geoffro! I plan on printing some of your Imperial as well!

Hey, no worries there! I just finished printing parts 1 & 2 today and they are not matching up very well. I have a feeling that Meshmix altered the scale of the original part, but I also noticed that parts 1 & 2 print on different seams. To test the theory that Meshmix screwed up the scale, I loaded parts 1 and 2 in MatterControl and yes, they are slightly different. I would think parts 1 & 2 would have exactly the same measurements but they do not. Must be the way they were sliced from the full helmet model.

I've been using Hatchbox ABS with a 0.4mm nozzle, printing at 235 degrees. I've had some layer separation issues and tried to kicking the heated bed up to 100 for Part 3 and that seemed to do the trick. I also shut fans down to 20% as well.

Thanks for the info! Thought it might be slicer thing but couldnt confirm. For this one i can see that some parts are accurate in relation to each other. As aresult i am gluing the remaining items todether, after they dry ill measure the voids left for the other parts and scale appropriately fingers crossed that works. Ill update here with pics if it does. Im sure to print another and that will be in ABS thanks agaian @reilley

That is way too hot.. I have printed with 205-220 degrees.. and the less bed temp is better
turning off fans causes splitting layers.

OK, I will try that tonight and see how it goes. I'm using ABS, so do you think 235 is too hot for that?

ohh. then use 235ish and 80 for bed.. and do some calibration prints to find the best configuration
Also.. Make sure there aren't wind drafts nearby.. they are bad!

Yeah, I do have a bit of an environmental problem. My workshop is down in my unheated basement and even though I'm in Atlanta, it's pretty cold here right now so I'm sure my printer is struggling to keep warm in all the right places. That darn print bed doesn't heat up exactly in the printed square either, as I recently found out. I'm thinking about buying Mike Kelly's acrylic enclosure to seal the freshness in, so to speak.

His enclosure is pretty expensive...

I use a 0.4 mm Nozzle.. Are your motor steps calibrated?

@brandutchman & @reilley It appears to be slicer related, I opened the stls in 123d and took down the sizes. When opening in Cura they had lost a number of MM in almost all directions. I think this combined with me changing orientations may have exacerbated the shrinkage. I have since resized and currently reprinting parts 7 & 8 if the alignment and sizing is correct I will be able to do the ear panels and it will be on to bondo and clean up. Future thinking next print Ill open each file and piece together in one large 123d file then copy down all sizes and make sure of them when loaded to the slicer. However before that next print Ill be doing a well run calibration of stepper motors and nozzle output. Ill post pics as it goes, hope you guys progress is going well.

ok! Hope to see that fixed!

@brandutchman pretty sure they are not ill do calbration and see just how far off they may be.

if that is 9 1/2 inchs across the head!mine is only 7 to 7 1/2 it is way to big for my head. i have a 22 inch head if i measure around my forehead. so how would i scale it to fit me...i am a novice..

You must have measured perimeter..

i suggest stop giving geoffro crap and buy you guys your own 3D printer so you can print your own stuff

did you make or buy the decals on the helmet, if you did buy them where did you get them from?

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Impressive, most impressive....

This guy is making a shame out of all Belgians and the community in general.
We're not all like him. Thx a lot for your contribution Geoffro, i'm going to try this one as soon as possible.
And BTW I'd rather die than pay for 100 euro for a piece of garbage.

Thank you, and I would never assume that his behaviour reflects on any other Belgiums. We are all our own person, regardless of where we come from.

Since when is your file helmet, it is Sketchup file with a different owner, you are a regular cheater and a liar, but the truth will out.

This is your one helmet
This is your second helmet
Both are stolen from Sketchup

Nice work selling my prints on your site, 100 euros for your crappy prints? i'll start offering the same service for less than half.

So you took my model, took some screenshots of it and posted it and said it was from sketchup? you have gone beyond the realms of fantasy here, and I am seriously concerned for your mental health. In fact, I think it's dangerous even talking to you.

I just looked at his website,. All stolen models and he is trying to sell them for a lot! Wow what an asshole

Sad isnt it :( you should see the mental messages from him - the guy is a real piece of work. He is trying to tell me now that his business has picked up even more because of his messages here. All I can say is if it's a war he wants. it's a war he'll get. He messed with the wrong Skippy.

Anyone who wants anything printed that he is selling on his page, I'll do it for 1/3 the price with free shipping. He want's 100 Euros ($150) for an unfinished printed mask, heck! I could do it for $50!

Hey everyone, for the real reason behind Procoprince's anger.. he's angry you are printing your own helmets out and not buying them off him! lol http://www.procoprint3d.com/#!star-wars/c1lqe

I can't keep up with you modifying and deleting your messages to suit your argument.
I don't have a gold coin to pass over your bridge sorry mr Troll.

This helmet is a copy of my but smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:325431
Here you can see perfectly, "how it is made"

And here is improved copy of the same Chelm only cut and hollow inside and more correction

Both helmets is a copy of SketchUp https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=57ffd28975abba38480514d7f2edc0a3
My version is also a copy of the same Chelm but I do not write with is my only version 1 of the revised angle for adhesion.

Stormtrooper Helm
Full Scale Stormtrooper Helmet (wearable)
by Geoffro

There are HUGE Quality differences... There is a reason more people have made this helmet

There is no difference it is only smoothed copy of one helmet for about an hour in response to the judgment, I might add original helmet made from the game Star Wars Battlefront
Compare yourself all the three versions and the versions of SketchUp

Colleague Geoffro knows where from it is the helmet because it copied and smoothed like most of his work, all you can find on other sites like SketchUp.

Stormtrooper Helm
StormTrooper Resculpt
by Geoffro
Full Scale Stormtrooper Helmet (wearable)
by Geoffro

I noticed you removed all the stolen designs from your page before you posted that, very sneaky. The simple fact is your helmet is NOT YOUR HELMET. You are whinging and whining about a model that was not even yours in the first place!. All you are doing is letting us all know how much of a ***** you are.

If so write that I deleted a lot of my item is to say that you were a big visitor to my Thingewerse and I saw you copied a lot of things
The fact is that your helmet is also not yours !!!! And you are a regular thief and do not say that someone is an idiot if you yourself are an idiot and it proved
Too many similarities with the helmet of course also with Sketchup and the same author.

He is offering the model for free and did a knock out job getting it ready for everyone to enjoy, while you are charging hellashish amounts of money for the same model. To you it's all about money, to him, it's about fun and bringing enjoyment to the hobby.

LOL so you admit you deleted all the stolen designs from your page before you came over here and started accusing me of stealing your model - all except for the one you are accusing me of?

You sir, have a few kangaroos running around loose in the top paddock I think.

You didn't even read any descriptions of any of my models did you? any time an original mesh is not mine, I clearly state the author If I know who it is.

I really don't know what you expected? you came here and commented, I left you alone months ago when you stopped stealing my makes and re-uploading them as your own - I thought that was the end of you, but sadly here I am again dealing with the same immature crap you were pulling before.

Now, I will ask you politely to leave or we will get the mods involved, your choice.

You know what you're funny you say that someone steals a model, and you yourself are a thief you write that you made a model of the game, then that I do not know where it is, and you know perfectly well that you downloaded from someone else, you change only the descriptions of how you around ass hot it got.
Never in your life have not done their model because they do not have a clue how to do it, you can just copy, connect, and smooth.
I am an engineer and a designer and my projects I sell because it is hard work and what it was or not, my Thingewerse, it is only processing but long ago I deleted just because of people like you every copy and write that it is their great work.
Tap in your head because you're a cheater man .

I think you've missed your meds today. I'm laughing at your "hard work" comment. At least I make an effort, you just upload other people's models without any work whatsoever. You're a flake.

Hey Copywriter I think that you have forgotten about drugs has long time ago.

It dosen't matter! You posted it as creative commons!

Dude. Just let it go. so what if he stole crap. that's the way of business. Its dirty and sneaky. that's life. Stop being a 11 year old.

i didn't steal jack shit off him. Take a dog, both of you share an end.

It wasn't toward you you dumb ass. the ass hole who is stealing it. lol tho

You published your model under CREATIVE COMMONS
You CANNOT ATTACK Geoffro for this.
(Technically you stole this design from DISNEY and the STAR WARS Franchise)

besides, he isn't making any money from it. Why are you mad?
Why would you attack a fellow engineer who is helping the advancement of 3d printing?

I attack since early in the descriptions was that this is his job, now it has changed but still manages a hustla, and is a regular asshole

Yes, you attack, attack and attack. You attack someone who gives people something free to print while at the same time angry because the model you stole and tried to sell on your website is not getting many sales - why? because its available here for free.

Who is the asshole again?

OMG you are stealing models from here and selling them on your website?? you piece of shite.

As you would be a little more intelligent then you would know that I do not sell models only printing service

As of 5 minutes ago, I noticed you just removed your model sale section and replaced it with one model.

If I catch you selling my models on your site again I will make a personal trip to Belgium and show you how Aussies treat such scum and villainy.

Stop dim that I delete something, you have no more arguments, but it can and maybe you already looked receives liar. Come welcome address you know will show you how the Belgians copy sucked such assholes like you. just remember that I am not of belgium, I'm just live and may you have been surprised. Ps.I'll pick them all and I will leave on my website

Such lovely language, I can see that you are a 'professional' designer....

I don't really care what your nationality is, it doesn't deter from the fact you are openly admitting selling other peoples models on your site, and now you have just threatened me in full view of everyone that you will now take ALL my models and sell them on your site.

You have removed MOST offending material from your site but you couldn't get to it all quick enough before people saw it and now you are angry that I exposed your little scam - which if you had just left me alone you wouldn't have had such a negative impact on your business.

One has to wonder why we bother uploading things here when people like you exist.

You have now been reported for profanity and with any luck will be blocked from commenting on my makes. Good day, asshat,

I 100% agree with you bro. Its just some dumb ass creating up shit because the Star War's movie just came out. I love you design. if only I can print it on my printer. LOL. Anyway your model has been up for like a year now so this weird guy is trying to steal your shit. I'd give a good lesson. Enjoy the Movie!!!!

Stop dim Copywriter about the fact that I delete files from my side I'm not a cheater like you and that officially threatened me first. Talk to yourself because you become so. You change the text descriptions of your files as I was writing it's not yours. You're just a crook and so much you can do, Copywriter.

You're an A class nutcase mate, you really are.

I notice the storm trooper helmet on your website for sale is mine and not your low res one, class act mate.

100 euro's for your dodgy prints? why? I urge people to print their own out - for the record I'll print anything he will for 1/2 the price.

As for me, you can even print for free. None of these helmets on my website is not yours.

Very nice copy of my Chelm

Your helmet? you mean the one you downloaded off the sketchup warehouse and uploaded to here and called it yours? unlike mine that is actually a resculpt of my own model that I said was originally from a low res model that wasn't mine? you're an A+ idiot. The helmet you uploaded was made by Pataplof, who is Spanish - last time I checked you are Belg.

I have my helmet had set a few months earlier than you, you idiot downloaded smooth out and say that this is your work. Can you tell me where is the helmet in your collection, it is the same smoothed copy of my Chelm. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:362947
Even setting angle meters is the same so who's the bigger idiot?
Most of your projects is to copy and reworked with SketchUp or other sites so do not make yourself such a big deal because you have dealing with a novice.

StormTrooper Resculpt
by Geoffro
Comments deleted.

Of course, talk to yourself, you have copied from Sketchup and smoothed so you're the same thief, https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=57ffd28975abba38480514d7f2edc0a3

omg... you just busted yourself. LOOK AT THE GUYS NAME... now, look at my first reply to you.

I'm friggin cracking up right now, this is gold.

So I did not write that this is my whole work, I wrote that this is version 1 and revised by an angle of 13 degrees, showed also, how do you download versions 3

Look, I really don't have the capacity right now to decipher your rantings, I've just had way too many Scotch's.

Comments deleted.

Very immature, your model isn't even close to this quality wise. Geoffro is right

Comments deleted.

looks good, I'm gonna have to print this after the ep VII one

Hey, on the pic there is written that the depth is 19cm, If the size of my head (from back to forehead) is 19.5, should i bother rescaling?

Comments deleted.

What fill density should I print this at? And Whats the best layer height?

I am finally putting everything together, I would like to thank Geoff for making this model and his hardwork! Great Job!
Printing each parts takes an ample amount of time, continuous monitoring and a couple of failed prints (my part). Took me 2 days to print the parts and have used 1kg and a half maybe of filament for these parts, normal settings using Slic3r. Fitting is great! I decided to scale it down to 90%. Painting will be done tomorrow... just in time for the Halloween!

Tips: I find it easier to print part 1,2,9,10, 15 and 16 by rotating them upside-down, it has lesser support (used brim/raft) compared to what it is laid out here.

Again, thanks Geoff! (Please make an armor/suit/armor too!) :)

How were you able to print everything in 2 days? I'm just finishing part 1 and it took over 24 hours with a .3mm layer height! I did it upside down like you suggested but I used full support with ReplicatorG. I'm still very new to 3D printing so I was wondering what I might be doing wrong or what is unnecessary.

only parts 15+16 really need supports, part 1 takes 6 hours without support same for part 2 and 8/9

(printing at 0.2)

I'm not able to generate the gcode from the stl file for part 2... any pointers?

I would download the file again, and still if that doesnt work for you possibly there is an error in the mesh that your program is picking up that everyone elses did not, or at least the 26 people who made helmets so far. Run it through netfabb and try again. I just sliced it in Makerware and also in ReplicatorG and it generated G code and X3G without an issue, so im afraid I can't help you.

Is it just me, or are part 13 and part 14 identical?

Look closer :) They are mirrored. Load 13 and 14 into your slicing program at the same time - you will see they are the same piece but mirrored.

Hey everyone, for some reason I am having difficulty slicing up part 11, it says there is an unexpected error. Any ideas what it could be?

Fixed it. If anyone else has the same issue, try running it through netfabb.

Could somenbody make a eyrie storm trooper suit

Assuming you meant entire, and I second this request!

Hello, could you tell me witch pieces are in black for printing in the right color

You are going to have to paint them yourself. If you just print it in white, you then sand it, put a coat of primer on it and the paint part of the piece black. Look at a picture of a Stormtrooper helmet on Google Images to see where you need to paint.

How would you piece these together and secure them so they don't fall apart?

I'm about 1/4 the way through this build but I've been using superglue so far which is working well.
Once assembled I'll fill in the seams between pieces with melted PLA where required to hopefully bond it a bit better too, then filler, sand and paint will all help the hold.

Hello, I really love this Stormtrooper helmet print and was wondering if you would like to try a sample of our 1.75mm PLA filament and see how it works out! Free filament and free shipping, (United States only) just contact me at gabe@foxsmart.org and I can get you set up!

What settings do people print at? Every time i try to print part 1 it gets most the way done then falls over.

I am using a Prusa i3 with heatbed. Tried with PLA and ABS

I am thinking maybe i need to print with larger layer heights. Any Suggestions?

Turns out it was my printer and my calibration. So i now have it printed, and love it. Work on the post processing and clean up, then i will be posting some pics.

You using supports? I'm printing at 0.3mm with PLA on my i3.

Try using mesh mixer. That will save filament on support material

Yeah i am. I will try again, see if i get better luck.. Been frustrating. What layer height do you use? 0.2mm ?

i see you said .3mm for layer height?
I will try and see what happens.

One thing i've done in the past if the supports don't seem to stick well is to add a drop of superglue where the support meets the painters tape just to make sure it sticks solidly and supports the part.

@IFritZI- I used about a spool and a half. you might need less, but I'm pretty sure it will go over one.

Has anybody needed to scale this down?

I really like this helmet, actually i like it a lot.. The only problem and the thing that makes me not wanna print this, is the amount of support..
If i study one of the parts in simplify3D it says it takes about 7 hours, thats the time with support..
However if i turn off support it says 2hours and 30 minutes.. That alot of hours put into support alone and i think thats a shame. Your work however is fantastic and i have tried myself to find another way to split this but i havent been able too!

Try using meshmixer, It strategically places supports to save both filament and time

Do you use the dense support layers option?

You can take the support infill down to under 10% if you use 2+ dense support layers.

Basically right before the part starts printing on top of the thin support, it will start laying thick support perpendicular to the previous layers.

About how much filament will this take? More than a full 1Kg spool? Pretty keen to tackle it, just want to know how much filament to order.

Hold on, Can you see through the view plates?

If you print them with transparent filament ;) most people so far have chosen to use alternative shades.

which parts needed support?

I want one but don't have 3d printer is there any where I can buy one preferred in uk? If so how much ? Thanks

If you just want to print this go to 3D hubs.com and see if there are any 3d printers near you. It costs much less than buying a whole printer.

If you print with abs you can use acetone and a brush to weld parts together.

Is it possible to get it cut into more pieces so its printable and somewhat scalable on a printrbot simple metal? (150x150x150mm), at the moment i can get all but 3,4,15,16 on the build plate, but most of the larger parts i can fit wont be able to be scaled =[

also whats the best way to paint it? sand it, use a filler primer then an enamel spray??

The design look amazing btw, i cant wait to print it!!

I could do that sure, obviously a bit short of time over Xmas, but shortly after not a problem. I am doing the new storm trooper helmet too, will prob upload it all at the same time.

merry x-mas btw!!!

oh yeah, obviously no rush!! i have seen the IV helmet your doing! looks sick! how do you get into that kind of 3d design? I've only really had experience on solidworks at uni designing a gearbox and a robot (geometrical basic shapes). I've just started playing around with 123D but that just seems like a downgraded version of that!

AndyXD, I have printed all of these parts with a Printrbot Metal Simple, it has the same bed dimensions, the only thing I had to do was change the orientation to 45 degrees on some of the pieces to the them to print diagonally across the print bed. I am just setting up piece 16 to print now with no issues (aside from some support for parts 15 and 16.

i eventually finished the helmet!, i ended up cutting a few of the pieces in meshmixer to reduce the amount of support material that needed to be printed, all in all it was about 24 parts. i used a dremel with some filament in place of a tool bit and friction welded the pieces together.. hold surprisingly well as I've dropped it and nothing bad happened.

I know when i went to print some of the pieces, no matter what orientation i had it in, it didn't fit in cura. so that's why i ended up cutting it.

All in all its a sick bucket! cant wait for the new one to be put out so i can wear it to the opening of ep 7!!

What size noggin do you think is too big if I print this at 100%? Thanks in advance.

My head is a big larger than the ID of the helmet, how does it do with scaling?

Create a sphere in a 3D modelling program, make it the rough size of your head, then use that as a guide when rescaling the helmet, you need to make sure your head fits in of course.

not many, I used the, for the eye pieces

HI, thank you for sharing this helmet, the model is awesome and I can't wait to print it, I was wondering if you could suggest some printing settings to avoid using that much support.

You don't need much support at all, most pieces can be printed without it. The eye sockets I would suggest it, but other than that most of it you can go without. Any looping or mess will happen internally anyway, so you won't see any missed steps from the outside. There is many pieces, all I can suggest without knowing your setup/printer etc is to try the most complicated looking part first! alot of the pieces are tall and quite thin and don't take long to print.

I was actually going to suggest to split parts 1-2, 9-10 in to two parts to reduce the amount of support material needed.. just a thought.

I'll hopefully start printing this up this week!

Ok, have had far too many requests for the full helmet or variations of it, I am uploading them now, might take some time as my upload speed is snails pace. I am uploading 3 versions. Full , half split and quarter split.

Great Work! I´d like to print the helmet in one piece (or splitted in 2 halfs) with my big printer, could you upload or link the file?

I am Printing as well! Cannot wait to wear it to the convention! I had a request Geoffro I tried emailing you but no luck. I was wondering if you could do a Turian Mask for me!

This is fantastic! I'm printing this now at 80%, I think it will then fit my 6 year old grand son. He and I are wondering if the entire body outfit has been modeled and out there somewhere to get.

Thank You Geoffro great work I'm working on printing this now. Is there a Bobba Fett helmet in the works?

thanks man, yeah Boba is about 20 percent done, not doing jango tho. Next mask is robocop which is done just print testing, and then Boba!

Comments deleted.

is there anyone out there who has a guide to putting this together? or pictures of doing so? or eventhe ability to tell me what to do?

you seriously didn't see the construction video , second image in the gallery?

I'm through printing, and the back and front i stuck together with E6000. ill be posting build shots as i go. thanks for the model mate, that shit is tiiight.

i seriously didnt realize that you just put the pieces together at the seams and they just morphed together with magic! thank you!
all sarcasm aside, i just meant like once i have all the pieces how can i put it together and make it look all nice?

Personally I used hot glue to hold it together. I am in the process of using a high build primer, bondo, and sandpaper to smooth it all out.

I too would like a one pies STL file of this so I can simply re size to fit for different head sizes.

Please. Ans thanks for your hard work!!!!! Looks great!

Amazing work once again.

Time to see what the Huxley can really do.

Can you supply an uncut model of this? I have a large build volume available and would like to print it as one piece.

hi there,
how can i split one part into two smaller ones?
thx for ur help

i use netfab cut tool then repair tool

Works great, THX alot

Hi your avatar looks like star wars bounty hunter head where did you get that?

its a boushh helmet i made out of Polystyrol some time ago, now i got a 3d printer... im trying to work with this medium.

Like I said absolutely amazing I have a dimension sst768 and a zcorp 450 these will be spectacular!

It's already been made and ready for upload, I actually made it about 2 weeks ago. I was just trying to gauge what sort of masks people wanted and also to make sure they are made correctly. I do not like posting models that I have not printed and tested first, but obviously a 16 part mask takes a long time and I know there are people with better printers and faster printers than me and could print it out in one hit even - that's why I release these before I have actually printed them, but I don't just upload them and say" Here go for it!" It's a long process. I have to slice every single piece and print preview it, with and without supports to make sure each one will print ok - among many other things. All that is needed for the scout helmet is a small animation to show the part numbers for construction, those videos take me around 30 mins to do, so it's not a big job. I'll have it uploaded tonight.

Hey still awaiting a response man TIA

I will try to find it, had a bit of a hard drive crash, 99% of things were backed up but still looking for a few odd ones.

Could not find this Scout mask you were speaking of can I have a direct link please?

I could not agree more never watched them but the movie gree was neat looking.

which version? I see 2 versions, one that looks more like a clone trooper and one that looks like a green standard stormtrooper.

What about commander gree! You rock at this stuff man!

I'm trying to steer away from the abomination that is Clone Wars.

fully agree... (even the new episodes I-III are not my favorites, the "originals" have more spirit IMO)
Thank you for sharing this !!!!

Wow. I am so building this on the X18 next week!

Kick..........ass.........thanks! ;)

I am sooooo going to make this next week!, can i ask, whats the size of the biggest part? My build area is 14cm x 14cm. Thanks

a couple of the parts are just over 14cm sorry, let me know what doesnt fit and ill cut it for you

Cool thank you

I'm half way through printing this and I think it's too big. I think the original ones were 30cm x 30cm.
No body else seems to have noticed? Am I wrong? The one I'm printing is huge.

Sounds like your slicing program might be increasing the scale? not sure sorry. I have seen this printed now more than 10 times and by default seems to be about the right size for most heads.