PCB Heatbead Mk1

by josefprusa, published

PCB Heatbead Mk1 by josefprusa Aug 26, 2010



PCB Heatbead Mk1 by josefprusa is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Its finally here, heatbed is tested and ready to make your prints flat as pancake. It is a long story of testing and developing to make it really working and long lasting, you can check some background info in previous version here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172 .

Active heated area is 20x20cm big and overall size is 214x214mm, its compatible with Mendel and all kinds of other RepStraps, just check if you can fit it on your bed. Its double-sided, so its more rigid and will not damage the heating element if you set wrong Z offset (thanks Joaz for this idea).

Its powered by 12V, prototype draws 9.9A when cold which goes down to 7.5A when hot. With isolation on the bottom of this heater, it reaches 100°C in about ~4,5 minutes, measured on the side of the heat field. These ratings may be slightly different on each PCB. It can be easily converted to use 24V or 48V.

I know guys from RepRapsSource and convinced them to fabricate these beds, so you can buy professionally fabricated version at http://reprapsource.com/en/show/6403 and trust me, I have had troubles etching first prototype which was only 1/4th of size so its worth to buy it, its made in Germany..

If you want to etch it by yourself, you need 35um copper layer and be sure to have all traces perfectly same, if some place is thinner it will generate more heat and burn the board. Also, you have to cover it before heating otherwise copper will corrode really quick.



You have basically two options. Bed has 3mm holes in corners so you can easily mount it with few screws, standoffs and some insulation will help with quicker heating. Second option is to use magnets as I did here http://prusadjs.cz/2010/04/heatbed-mk4-we-are-almost-there-simple-cheap-hot-swap/. In both ways I strongly recommend to use plywood or something similar as base, acrylic will warp.

Preparation for printing

You just need tope some kapton/pet tape on the printing side.

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Anyone get this to work with an Ultimaker and also where do I buy the parts including the power supply? I really want to start printing with a heated bed.

The problem is that Allegro and Eagle both call their files .brd, but they aren't actually the same format. So Allegro sees the file extension and thinks it knows how to open the file, but it doesn't. The solution to your problem is to download the program the file was made for, EagleCAD (which is free) and see about exporting it to Allegro.

The current rating of your power supply can never be too high - the board will draw as much current as it needs based on the voltage, but never more.

That said, these boards have about 1 Ohm resistance. If you put 12v across something with 1 Ohm resistance, its going to try to draw 12A (Ohm's law says V=I*R, so 12V/1Ohm=12A).

That means your 6A power supply isn't enough to handle one of these beds. That said, the resistance varies depending on
where you get it. If you have a 2 Ohm unit, 6A is fine.

is 12V 6A too large a power supply for the heatbed?

Can I hook up the heatbed directly to the power supply?

Thanks for your help

hey I am using Allegro PCB editor version 16.2. I am getting the following error when I try to open the .brd file.

ERROR(SPMHDB-238): The database is corrupted. It may have been copied from a different architecture using ASCII mode ... copy using binary mode.

I really hope the community can help me figure this one out. Can you possibly upload a version of a .brd file that I can use or perhaps direct me to s
omewhere I can learn how to deal with this problem? Google searches are not helping much

Any chance of getting a mechanical drawing of this?

I have no PCB software and it'd be nice to make stuff of the same shape as this (like a glass build surface).


The software to open it is free, but just to save everyone the trouble I agree there should be a drawing available for download, so I made one. Here!


Prusa's PCB Heatbead Mk1 DXF, PDF and JPG drawing

Got one of these from reprapsource. But I measure a total resistance of 13.6 Ohm (double checked). This will draw only 0.88 Amp @12V.

Any idea of wat might be going on?

I just got one. mine is 1.2 Ohm. Is your multimeter bad?

I tried this with a 24V @ 14.5A supply. Bed heats to 110 in less than a minute...I am worried that this might be too much current but not sure.

I did that once. It got the MOSFET so hot it melted the solder. I now run at 18V and have a heatsink on the MOSFET.

IMO this board is not beefy enough when run at 12v - on my machine with an aluminum print bed, it never gets over 70*C with a 12V 40A power supply. With an 18v 15A supply it hits 60 in 4 minutes, 110 in about 7 minutes, which is fast enough for me. At 12 volts, you can use it to print PLA but yo
u'll wait 15 minutes for it to get to temp. I can't print ABS with it at all at 12v.

Bought one of these from http://ultimachine.comultimachine.com.

Seems that the LEDs and resistor are 0805 sized SMDs. We'll see how the one's I got work.

Also, more info on using this platform:

I feel the documentation for this item is lacking. :'( I am not an electrical engineer and have a very limited knowledge of electronics. It seems that no one has documented exactly how to assemble this is a easy to understand for the layman way because most of the reprap community IS good at electronics. But for grease monkey mechanics like me, we need more help. I have the PCB I got from a botmill kit but beyond knowing I need a 100w 10A Power Supply unit I don't know even where to begin! I have Gen6 electronics to attaching it to my board is not an option. I need to run, monitor and control it externally of any and all software.

My main question is, could someone please explain 1) what/ where must be purchased 2) how to assemble the setup and 3) how to use this for printing.

Saying, "Solder it to power and add a couple leds and resistor, whats so hard about that?" is not enough.

This seems to be a similiar larger version of the one Makerbot has been selling http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1. I just made mine and I used the same resistors and leds that the MBI version has. a 1k ohm smd resistor and 2 red smd leds.I took apart a 4 pin molex power splitter and soldered the black and yellow wires to the two outer pads. I used solder paste and heated it with a soldering iron. I also think the documentation is lacking specific information. These are the parts at http://mouser.commouser.com:

645-598-8210-107F Dialight Standard LED - SMD Red Water Clr x 2
290-1.0K-RC Xicon Thick Film Resistors - SMD 1/8WATT 1.0KOHMS x 1

Thank you so much for posting this - I looked all over for this info.

I don't know about all that other stuff, but I just discovered via IRC that the resistor needs to be 1kOhm

Hey man, whats the thickness of the PCB board itself?

I bought one of these from http://reprapsource.comreprapsource.com - I'm not quite sure how to wire it up, I dont care about the LEDs and am concerned about the resistor.

also do you mount a thermistor?

is there a URL for a wiring guide?

I would think you hook up a resistor and capacitor with the thermistor and tape it to the bottom with Kapton tape. See http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1. I do not know the circuit diagram but there are references to it relating to the Makergear or Makerbot heated build platform about on the web.

Got a picture of the heater element side? I'm thinking about getting one of these for my oversized Huxley, but it will be an extremely tight fit, so I want to make sure I'll be able to cut a few mm off the sides without breaking anything if necessary.

This is pretty cool. I was reading about how you used magnets to make it hot swappable - I was thinking wouldn't it make more sense to keep the heatbed permanently attached and use hot swappable aluminum plates on top instead? That's what I do with my MakerGear heated platform on my MakerBot. That way I only need about 2-3 minutes between prints to get the aluminum plate back up to temp.

What is the dimension between the screw holes?

21cm :-)

I think the exact measure is 209 mm, measured physically. DONT_KNOW