This is for a long-term camera mod project I've been undertaking for nearly 3 years. The crank is pretty slick, I'm pleased with it, but it will require another part to interface with it as to prevent light leaks (bad for photography) and to keep it in place on the camera. There is a tube heading up the center core for stability and structural rigidity -- "solid" or infilled prints would snap apart easily. Giving the print a core requires the extruder to make a nice fat ring in the center, giving it a nice marrow to keep it solid. Try it on your own models, it's toot-sweet.

Print. Pray. And I'll tell you the rest when you're older. I'm having major problems with the very top, where the tab interfaces. I believe it's related to the absence of certain COOL and ORBIT settings in RepG 0018, but maybe it's hiding somewhere. If y'all have any ideas, please shout.

UPDATE: I've discovered a few things. I'm printing this wicked slow, no question there. I'm going to design a small blower to directly cool the area just below the nozzle, so my prints can hold up cleanly with no compressing or warping. I tried a variation on this last night, and while it was ridiculous, it was totally functional and yielded really nice, clean prints. The catch of course is that the method shouldn't cool down the HBP, nor the nozzle itself. I'll update a Thing when I've got it ironed out.

Another note: I posted a query on the Google Makerbot Group about concentric patterns for the center core, and C. Pax suggested using extra shells on base layer, which turns out to be awesome looking. I've included a screenshot from Skeinforge to show the design, and it's DEFINITELY going to be the next trial method for this project. It's freakin beautiful :)