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120 Film Advance Crank

by colorbroken, published

120 Film Advance Crank by colorbroken Aug 28, 2010

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License

GNU - GPL
120 Film Advance Crank by colorbroken is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Summary

This is for a long-term camera mod project I've been undertaking for nearly 3 years. The crank is pretty slick, I'm pleased with it, but it will require another part to interface with it as to prevent light leaks (bad for photography) and to keep it in place on the camera. There is a tube heading up the center core for stability and structural rigidity -- "solid" or infilled prints would snap apart easily. Giving the print a core requires the extruder to make a nice fat ring in the center, giving it a nice marrow to keep it solid. Try it on your own models, it's toot-sweet.

Instructions

Print. Pray. And I'll tell you the rest when you're older. I'm having major problems with the very top, where the tab interfaces. I believe it's related to the absence of certain COOL and ORBIT settings in RepG 0018, but maybe it's hiding somewhere. If y'all have any ideas, please shout.

UPDATE: I've discovered a few things. I'm printing this wicked slow, no question there. I'm going to design a small blower to directly cool the area just below the nozzle, so my prints can hold up cleanly with no compressing or warping. I tried a variation on this last night, and while it was ridiculous, it was totally functional and yielded really nice, clean prints. The catch of course is that the method shouldn't cool down the HBP, nor the nozzle itself. I'll update a Thing when I've got it ironed out.

Another note: I posted a query on the Google Makerbot Group about concentric patterns for the center core, and C. Pax suggested using extra shells on base layer, which turns out to be awesome looking. I've included a screenshot from Skeinforge to show the design, and it's DEFINITELY going to be the next trial method for this project. It's freakin beautiful :)

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Instead of solid core shaft, you could opt to do a central stick like shaft, with 3 'spokes' coming off the shaft to the outside edge.

for each layer you rotate the relation of one spoke to the others and to the outside edge and center shaft ...

think of a spiral staircase .... take out every other step, and then collapse the staircase from top to bottom along the shaft. You'd have an outer circumference that had support "bea
ms" or "spokes" connecting to the central shaft ... but you'd not "waste" as much material because you are using "beams" or "spokes" like on a bicycle wheel, to connect the outter rim to the shaft.

Also, you could have the shaft be rotatable above a certain "torqued" value with respect to the "knob
". In this case, think of the average automobile's Gas Cap ... you put the cap on the tank, you turn, you hear a "click" and this is the max torque the cap will place on the central shaft of the cap, for sealing the tank.

I thought of the torque issue, because maybe someone tries to put too much p
ressure on the knob.. it might damage something (or break the film).

-R :)

Hey Robert, I like all of the suggestions. I like the torque idea too, especially since this mechanism should only permit rotation in one direction... I'll work on it for v2.0 of the cam. More details on my makerbotified modification when it's ironed out.

Good thinking on the solid core. The new STL format (AFM) should have local infill meta-data.

Print 2 of them at the same time and the small top will be better.

Thanks, a good idea, but these are prototypes, so I only need one good one to try out... just a question of ABS economy.

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