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Parts Tray Drawers

by FatalError3141, published

Parts Tray Drawers by FatalError3141 Jul 17, 2014

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226927Views 63490Downloads Found in Tool Holders & Boxes


Super Simple to print trays and holder. 1,2,4 compartment trays. Can & SD card for scale.
Internal tray dimensions:
77mm x 55mm
38mm x 55mm x2
38mm x 27mm x4


Printed with 1.2mm shell.
0% Fill.

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Amazing design. Thank you for sharing!

Very nice design and optional drawers, i think bottom drawer hard to open? Maby you can design different/optional handles? Like vertical straight, handle on top of drawer(is harder to print i think)
Good work! Thanks

I just finished one of these at 150% larger, flawless print.Thanks!

I printed the shell and when it got half way the print shifted one compartment to the right which gave me a overhang donno y but it the stl file wrong

I put the model into Cura and in the draw handels they was a hole in it.

I had to put them into mesh mixer and make solid. That worked great for me.

Loaded into Cura.
Had to remove .2mm off the drawers as they wouldnt fit.
Printed and all good. Thanks !!!!

This is a strange question, but what gray filament are you using?? I love it! I've tried to find a similar one but just can't.

Orange as well

Drawers are a bit too tight...but I didn't have the problem with the separated tab

EDIT - There was slight rafting on the base, once removed the drawers fit fine! Thanks

I as well found the parts need to be repaired to slice properly. The problem is most likely exporting STL from SketchUp, as I have found it proves to be inaccurate. I would recommend TinkerCad or AutoDesk fusion 360.

I found the same as the other comments, the draw parts are not manifold and need to be repaired to slice properly.

That SD CARD though lol

hahaha ikr i didnt even know they existed anymore 2 mp3s at most on that thing

The chest/box might be good for projects like re-purposing cleaned out food tins for trays....print the box and load with 'tin drawers.'

I had to fix each of the trays using netfabb because when sliced they all had a triangular piece missing from the bottom from handle through to the other side. After fixing it printed great

Worked great for me and all fitted together perfectly! Thanks!

Update- there is a comment below

Aug 3, 2014
Qayshp - in reply to Qayshp

He had the same issue. @ Qayshp did adjusting the print work or did you just end up living with it?

Each time I print the drawers the handle is not attached. When reviewing the actual files in sketchup I notice there is a hollow space where the handle attaches. Is there a specific reason why this was done? Anyways my printer continues to print the handle separate from the tray. If I watch the start of the print sure enough it does the tray first then does the handle separately. Always leaves a gap. Printed 12 drawers out before I had enough.

On a side note thanks for the files. I was able to modify the handle because I was sick of simply super gluing them on after the fact. Anyways please feel free to enlighten me on why there is a hollow space and if there is a way I can get my printer to smarten up because I don't think this is the first time I will see this behavior.

Excellent fit and perfect size for what I needed it for.

MakerBot Replicator 1 Dual.
Makerware slicer.
ABS 240 Degrees C
115 Degrees C Bed
20% infill
.20mm with quality set to high.

I have a specific requirement for a modified version with 6 drawers to hold small stacks of paper. This would be used by small groups using de Bono's 6 thinking hats to think through possible solutions to problems in clinical research. What software do you recommend for adapting the design of the shell?

There is a customizable remix here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:421886

That will let you specify 6 drawers, and change the dimensions of each drawer to suit.

Customizable drawer box with hex pattern sides

I agree with dylanismyname)) first I read 64GB and I thought "this guy has got a lot of stuff to print") but then I realized these are 64MB and that's a real old school! anyways, congrats, man:)

To prospective printers: I suggest that if you print the outer shelf with anything less than OP;s recommended shell width, print with infill. Thin walls with no infill warped when I printed mine.

The real question here is about the 64 Megabyte SD Card, are they still even made?

Yep, still some generics on the market. Old cameras, palm pilots, mp3 players, etc. cannot use the multi-GB cards.

Comments deleted.

Hi, just printed out your awesome box on my Ulitmaker 2. I just noticed that one side is thicker than other. Let's call thinner side "top". So top side is so thin that it flexes under fingers while bottom is nice and sturdy. Any reasons you made different thickness of bottom and top parts? Or could this be an issue with Cura and Ultimaker 2?

Thanks, the walls should be the same thickness. Are you printing it with a 1.2mm shell?
Mine are printed with an ultimaker 2.

This is awesome! It would be cool if it had ridges that made these easily stackable.

This is awesome! It would be cool if it had ridges that made these easily stackable.

This turned out awesome. I was getting some corner warping on the drawers, but adding a .5mm high disc on each corner kept them anchored down. The main problem was an error that I was getting from my software "Model(s) are not closed surface". I still haven't figured out how to fix that, but they printed anyway.

All but the most painstakingly drawn models from Sketchup require model fixing. Try "netfabb.azurewebsites.net".

I'd love to see the trays with a slope inside, to make small components fall to the front :) Would be perfect for small SMD components

Comments deleted.

Wait - are you saying the can and the SD card aren't included??

What are the overall external dimensions, need to know if this will fit on a 4x4x4 print bed

Hi, it's approx 3.5L x 3.3 W x 2.3H

Have you considered making a set of drawers with vertical handles - similar curved-edge design to what you have, but aligned vertically and running down the center of the set? I think it would look very nice and it would make it easier to open the bottom drawer. Maybe make it even easier, overall, to pull the drawers out.

Another minor addition could be a small bump on the shelf top in the back to gently hold the drawer in place. Not too much of a hold -- just enough to keep the drawer from sliding out if the set is leaned forward, by chance.

Just a suggestion - I do like your design as-is and I'm currently printing out a couple of sets.

That is an excellent idea, I will try adding them in. Thanks for suggesting it.

My draw sets hang from the top,
off the bottom of a shelf so I never thought about the bottom draw.

what color filament have you printed the outer case in? It looks like its not quite black, but looks really nice!

Hi, it's from Colorfabb "Blue Grey" PLA+PHA.

Many thanks for this Thing! I printed one today and will probably print a few more for work, co-workers, etc.

Tried this yesterday. Bttom layers warped like crazy - even lifted up the blue tape :(
Have to try this again once I equip my Printrbot with a heated bed...

I have warping on prints this size too, I find 60c and a 15mm brim help. That's with PVA + water painted onto the glass bed.

Did you Try it with some brim?

These are awesome! Great work and thanks for sharing!!

Very cool! When I saw this, I thought it would be great if it was customizable. So I went ahead and made a customizable version, it is tagged as a remix of yours.

I'm thinking of adding some kind of drawer stop mechanism to keep the drawers from falling out.

Yeah that would be a simpler design! I'll look forward to seeing it.

Thanks for the remix.
Maybe a small recessed magnet on the backside of each draw to keep them from falling out?

It would be much simpler having a small lip at the back top of the drawer and the top of the shelve slot which would require the drawer being tilted to remove!

It could be as easy as printing a small bump on the top of the shelf above each drawer, near the back. The top-back of the drawer would have to gently snap past it and the bump would hold it in place. It should be easier to print successfully than a lip on the shelf to catch a lip on the drawer, and would not require changing the dimensions of either.

Just a small side note, if you were to add a small dovetail to the sides and slots/legs top and bottom these would be stackable/connectable and extremely secure!

I was thinking of adding some kind of dovetail to make it stackable, Maybe with a screw wall mount too.

That would be awesome. Lots of junk accumulating on my bathroom countertop. It'd be nice to have it close by but away from water splashes. It'd make a good spice cabinet in the kitchen too.

Awesome work! It's great to see another Sketchup designer.

Very nice and useful design :)

Perhaps the largest X/Y print I've tried, and the first PLA print I've seen warp on my printer. I might recommend doing this on a fresh piece of plate tape to others with a small build volume.

Also odd, the tray printed with a triangle missing from the base, and the handle not connected to the drawer. Not sure why the slicer did this.

Was using MakerBot's slicer with .2 resolution, 0 fill, but all other settings default.

Comments deleted.

Why would you use 0 infill? I would suggest 40% and LINEAR style infill.

edit: Hmmm, okay I see the instructions but still puzzling...though I'd imagine if the bottom layer is a certain thickness, most slicers will give the bottom and top surfaces about 5 layers thickness which would allow the use of 0% infill setting.

Yes, this is exactly what i did to make it quicker to print and not have horrible vibration from trying to fill a really small void.

The walls are 1.2mm thick or 3 passes of the head (0.4mm nozzle) they are solid.
Bottom thickness is also 1.2mm and solid, 0.2mm layer height and 6 layers thick.
No need for infill :)

Any idea how to get this working in Simplify3D for the walls? I have extrusion width at 0.4mm, but no matter what I set the perimeter settings it either has a large gap or it has the wiggly infill. How do you adjust settings to lay exactly 3 layers thick for the walls? Also when I bring the model into MeshMixer, the walls seem to measure a bit larger then 1.2mm (I always get ~1.347mm).

To answer my own question, it looks like to make it work I had to adjust my extrusion width to 0.43mm, use at least 2 layers perimeter, and raise the allowable thin-wall overlap to 50%. This essentially squashes the two middle layers into one, cutting out the jerky infill. I'm printing it now and it looks okay, but I guess this has potential to cause over-extrusion in the middle of the walls...

Awesome idea mate! I will havta give that methos a try on some of my next designs...sometimes I do this inadvertantly.

Try one of the remixed stl files, some people are having the same problem.

Simple and neat.... I like this... Thank you....

very nice! The scale pic is nice. The soda can looks like something godzilla dropped.

Congrats on being featured. Great, simple, design.

that what im seeking because i was to lazy to make one for me. many many thx.

These look really nice and simple! What filament is that, by the way? I've been looking for a nice dark grey.

Glad you like them.
The filament is colorfabb blue grey and Dutch orange.