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Chainmail bracelet - improved

by gpvillamil, published

Chainmail bracelet - improved by gpvillamil Jul 18, 2014

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106006Views 29002Downloads Found in Jewelry

Summary

This is a major update to my original Chainmail bracelet. The clasp is now better calibrated and much stronger. Small but subtle adjustments make it work better, and require much less rework after printing.

I've included a regular size and a smaller size of the file.
Extra bonus: a multicolor version of the file is attached too, for each size.

UPDATE: I've added versions without the modeled in support on the clasp tab if you have a printer that can handle this, or if you want to add your own support manually.

Instructions

This was modeled in OpenSCAD, based on Zomboe's chain mail pattern.

In order to print it successfully, you should make a custom profile in Makerware and change the following settings:

Layer Height: .27mm
solidFillOrientationOffset: 0 (instead of 45) // this allows bridging on the female end
doPurgeWall: true (if using multicolor) // you don't want the color swap to happen in the middle of the bracelet

Make sure that support, raft, etc. are all disabled. Not needed and will cause problems.

Once printed, you will need to trim the supports off the bottom of the clasp tongue. That should be the only required work, the clasp mechanism should snap nicely in and out. I was able to break off the supports just by hand, though an X-Acto knife might help.

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The clasp on this model is very thin no matter what material you print it in (at the recommended layer height). I tried ABS, PLA and NinjaFlex. All of them latched very poorly and the female end of the clasp broke away easily. I may try again later by scaling the whole model by 30% in the Z-axis so it is strong enough at the clasp area. The scaling up would also help for wider diameter nozzle printers like I have (.6mm). The model itself is also riddled with issues and needed to be repaired by netfab or the like. The clasp/latch could be redesigned to a simpler and much stronger holding mechanism that is easier to print, with less bridging. I will probably construct a new clasp before printing again.

Not a very good model.

Does it need support?

well i just finished the gcode compiliing 2 hours after i started the compiling

Oct 7, 2015 - Modified Oct 7, 2015

Is there a way to make this print multicolor using a mac and a FlashForge Dreamer? thanks

I also have a Dreamer and would like to print this using both extruders. Did you ever receive a reply or figure out a way to print it? Thanks!

Mine didn't print with the clasp. Please advise.

Print bed might not be big

use the remixed version

I'm trying with a witbox so every time I'm getting crashed when try to blend :(...

I'm using PLA - 0.2 (also tried 0.27) and 15% infill

Any advice?

Thanks!

the settings in the instructions are specifically for your machine, your slicer and the way you orient it, which is different from everyone else. It prints fine at 50-100 microns at 50mm's on mine and if you used a proper slicer, it would bridge properly too without rotating it. Posting settings is like posting an X3G, it only works for you.

For those asking if they need flexible filament, the answer is no. This is a chainmail design, which incorporates a type of hinge system to allow it to flex around your wrist..

Do you need flex filament or can I just print in PLA or ABS?

Comments deleted.

so i need a flexible plastic for this to work, i can only print with abs

Printed this with the replicator 2 and it came out great!

Did you use a specific flexible filament or just standard PLA?

Just wrote a guide for printing this in multicolor for users with single extruder MakerBots and had some fun experimenting.
http://www.yourwildworld.com/fridiy-multicolor-chainmail-bracelet/

I am clueless... How am I supposed to know when to change colors?

The multicolor versions are done on a dual extruder printer. The color change happens automatically. If you are pausing and changing filament, I think it happens after 4 layers, or about 1mm. Then again 1mm from the top.

hello, I am still new to 3d printing, I have a FF pro using replicator g. do you know how to just place a support on the clasp, as you are requiring for this, thanks for the help.

Hi there!

The tongue on the clasp already has support built in to the model. Once it prints, you can slice it off with a knife.

The groove on the other side of the clasp (the slot) should not need any support, the printer should be able to bridge the gap easily. HOWEVER in order for this to work your infill settings should allow for the extrusion to go straight across the gap. By default, Makerware rotates infill by 45 degrees which doesn't work. I used a custom profile to rotate the infill by 0 degrees to allow bridging to work.

So no auto-generated support is needed in any case.

After fixing with online Netfabb, this printed right, but. . . . . at the beginning of each link, the hotend left a little blob of filament. These flat blobs ended up touching other links, and basically fusing links together. Any suggestions on stopping the blobs??

I can't get this to print properly in single color PLA. I used the settings you recommended but the first few layers always seem to glitch out and get trashed. Printing on blue tape on a Rep 2. Any ideas?

Also, wipe down your blue tape with rubbing alcohol first. It makes a huge difference

Level your bed correctly, and print the first layer very (very!) slow and hot.

So interesting thing. I have been modifying the SCAD. If I change the line_width .. the item gets bigger yet the clasp ends don't move and scale with it .. so I have some mail .. the clasp embedded in the mail .. then the rest of the bracelet.

I can change the layer_thick to .3 with no seeming issue, but with the Line_width at .5 the model goes wonky. Ideas?

I haven't been able to get Slic3r to generate the Gcode. It ran overnight and still isn't finished. I have tried 3 different versions of Slic3r. What program did you use to generate Gcode?

It took me about an hour with Slic3r 1.1.2. I think I may have run it through netfabb first, I can't remember. By which I mean after I had started slicing and it was taking several minutes more than my usual slicing jobs I ran it through netfabb and then started that slicing in a second thread: one of those finished in an hour but I can't remember if it was the original or the netfabb'd one.
Probably the netfabb'd one, if you've been running all night without success.

Running it through the online netfab tool fixed it and was able to generate gcode with newest stable slic3d. Now I will try to print!

I used Makerware.

Make sure to set layer height to 0.27mm. You may want to try running the single color models through Netfabb. The geometry for the links might not be 100% correct, but since they are sized to be 2x layer width it doesn't matter, since there is no infill. Makerware ignores this but other slicers might not.

I can't get this to slice in makerware with .27mm height... I'm using a Makerbot Replicator 2x. Any other hints with makerware?
Thanks!

I think someone posted a derivative of this model which has been run through Netfabb. You could try that one. (The multicolor .thing files were all processed through Netfabb but not the single color ones)

It does take a long time to slice, and it might seem like it crashed. For me it gets to 61% slicing and then stays there for 30 minutes before finishing up really quickly.

Online netfab fixed my slic3d problems

one word (amazing ) the best thing I have printed fault free ( but was jeublius did not think it would work , it turned out 110% perfect my missus loves it, thank you

Post a picture :)

Alas, it will still not fit on my print bed pout. If you were to make a half length version of the smallest one, then we can link them together in two and three sections for smaller and larger bracelets. Looks like a great piece!

Would it be possible to arrange the model as a curled up item on its side? That way it can be used on printers with a smaller bed.

Another option would be to have half-length bracelets that can be joined together.

It would be very difficult to do it curled on its side, since it relies on horizontal bridging for the free loops.

I like the idea of the two halves, you could have a "one shot" clasp to join them (ie a clasp that is not designed to come apart).

Jul 30, 2014 - Modified Jul 30, 2014

You can join several of these together to make a belt !

I was wondering, is the clasp strong enough to use as a belt? Thanks.

The clasp is pretty strong. There is a variable in the OpenSCAD code called claspclearance, making that value smaller will make the clasp close more strongly.

I wouldn't use it to hold up my pants, but it should stay closed.

wow 13 featured items, what did they charge you for that?

Jul 29, 2014 - Modified Jul 29, 2014
gpvillamil - in reply to Geoffro

No payment... basically what gets you on the radar screen is making good stuff and positive social activity. Liking, following, commenting, making, remixing. You can suggest things too, they generally pay attention. After all, Thingiverse has a strong incentive to feature the good stuff!

I don't make any money from getting things featured - it's just a hobby.

Also, it doesn't hurt that I've been on here since 2010.

All of that true I'm sure and your designs are superb, I guess your ratio of 13 features to 46 designs is down to your consistent content and a few thingiverse mods following you, so they know when you release something, I honestly though this was a paid thing because nearly all of them seem to be a company, alot of them who don't make alot of things - and some things that have never even been printed out, at least you post things you yourself have tested.

What size nozzle did you use to print this? I have a 0.5mm and a 0.35mm so my first choice would be to use the .35 but the pink plastic my daughter would want me to use is only for the .5mm hotend.

I used a .4mm nozzle, and of course, 0.4mm layer width. If you look at the OpenSCAD code, you can see this is defined as a constant early on.
You can change it to 0.5, but you will then have to change the dimensions of the bracelet further in the code, since the links become bigger.
You can change the layer height constant too, away from 0.27. This should propagate through the code automatically.

thanks for the pointers. I've designed a few basic things in OpenSCAD so I'll have a look at the scad file. None of my stuff got detailed enough to need to take layer heights and widths into account.

Looks very nice. I particularly like the way the two colours work together. This is something my daughter might actually want to wear :) I got some Colorfabb Bronze filled filament which has a good weight to it, I might try it out with this and maybe mix in some silver PLA.
If it works out, I'll post a pic.

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