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Soap holder

by piuLAB, published

Soap holder by piuLAB Jul 23, 2014

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Thing Statistics

105879Views 38319Downloads Found in Bathroom

Summary

Soap holder printed with PLA, two pieces detachable and washable.
You can realize the plate directly by the .stl with hexagonal pattern or by playing with Slic3r's infill pattern and create your own!

Instructions

Slic3r settings we used for the grid:

  • honeycomb infill (10% or less) rotated 45°
  • no top/no bottom
  • 3 perimeters (vertical shells)
  • printed on a machine with 0.7mm nozzle size (that's why the infill look really large)

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Works great - great style

Can you make this fit the MP Select Mini (max 120x120x120mm)? I've tried scaling it to 90%, but after it finishes the bottom of the tray and starts to work on the sides, my printer re-adjusts and continues, but is now offset by 2 inches. So, it's trying to print the sides over the air. Very strange. I've tried twice. I think the scaling to 90% does something weird to it. I've scaled other things without a problem, so I don't know. Please help, I would really like to print this.

Just finished printing mine. Looks great! Thanks!

I'm trying to use Cura and it's showing a solid object when I load the .stl file in. I'm using 10% triangle. How do I make it so it's not solid?

Set the bottom and top layers to 0

I love this design! Just made a video documenting my build process - thank you for sharing :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ci8y5DYwv3I

I got it printed and it is working great for me. I personally made the two pieces two different colours for a little flare.

I got it printed and it is working great for me. I personally made the two pieces two different colours for a little flare.

Anyone have an issue printing the honeycomb tray? When I print it, each of the honeycombs in the tray are .5mm apart. So you just get a bunch of 5 sided hole pieces when done. Not one solid tray. I am using Simplify3D and have tried various settings but always the same results.

Thanks.

F

My print started this way for the tray but on the 3rd layer the gaps got filled in. Printrbot Simple Metal using Cura.

I made this on my Makerbot Replicator Mini, so it asked me if I wanted to scale to fit. So I did that for all parts, but the outcome in the end is that the filter doesn't fit on the tray because it's basically the same width and length. I guess I need to manually choose a smaller size for the filter than that which the Makerbot Desktop chose for me?

Not sure why but the honeycomb filter printed the inverse of what it showed.

Do all your prints turn out to be inverses?

Apr 21, 2016 - Modified Apr 23, 2016
Godfall47 - in reply to Sir_Nyancat

No only this filter printed inversely. I opened it in Makerware and it shows the right design. But when you click make and go to preview the build it shows the inverse of what should be printed. I opened it in Cura and the preview shows the correct design. So something happens to it in MakerWare i think.

Edit: Opened the STL in Slic3r and changed some settings and then exported the STL to open in Makerware and the preview looks correct now. Lets hope it prints right.

Works great as a sponge holder for the kitchen sink also, the sponges fit perfectly without having to scale.

This printed very nice! Thanks for uploading.

no more loosing the soap in the shower and not being able to hold it but now u can

I love mine. Its been in use for 4 months. I like the scale personally. Fits huge bars of soap I like very nicely

Mar 22, 2015 - Modified Mar 22, 2015

This thing is ridiculously oversized. Waste of print time and plastic. Of course as the uploader suggested, you can scale it before you print but it would make more sense for the uploaded files to be of a realistic size. I'm about 40 mins into the print of the filter and going to cancel it and look for another soap holder.

Hm??????? I always download something and scale or edit it to my needs - that's normal, where is your problem? Make a "better one" for you and add a remix to this model - so everyone can download your version

Longer print than expected but looks sweet! Can't wait to take it home and put it to use.

I did encounter problems on both pieces on the back right corner lifting from plate. Found it odd to lift from plate in same spot both times with good settings, hairspray and using Auto Bed Level (9 probe points before every print). Any tips or recommendations as to why would be appreciated. I would rather not a bunch of calibration cubes or pyramids that are this big.

Jan 27, 2016 - Modified Jan 27, 2016
Tony3D - in reply to ResistImpulse

Probably too late but a few tricks to stop layers lifting. Some of these suggestions may not apply to your printer.
If you are printjng on to a heated glass bed.

  • Make sure the glass is actually flat and level. Over time sometimes glass can warp so the point that it lifts may be the lowsst point. Flipping glass plate or rotating it will move that point. A small amount of aluminum cooking foil under glass can sometimes improve heat conductivity. An extreme warp may require glass plate replacenent.
  • Clean glass with Acetone - conmonly used as a nail polish remover.
  • A cheaper more sticky alternative to hairspray is lemon juice or sugar water - very sticky while surface is hot. Wait for liquid to boil off before srarting to print.
  • Turn off any cooling fan while printing first 2-3 layers.
  • I use an additional fan sometimes to cool the extruded material. Try to make sure any fan is not directed directly downward at the layers near the glass bed because the cooling air can cause premature lifting.
  • You could add a 2-3 layer pad to the extreme edges of a design that you trim off after printing. This might improve adherance and if pad lifts a little the rest of print might not.

A brim doesn't work as well as the "mouse ears" trick for large models - just search for it on google - or use this one and put it in every corner of your model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839635
I'm making mouse ears for myself - the height should always be the height of your first layer, so you can cut it as easy as a brim.

Works every time with any type of filament for me.

Add Mouse Ears to anything in your Slicer

Happens to me as well. i read something about the cooled lower layers and the hot layer lifting the ones below through shrinkage of pla/abs (pla less, abs more). Try printing a brim of 2+ mm, helped me a lot.

epic going to make one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

some modifies to the design: reduced height of the box and augmented height of the filter to avoid braking. Step files provided ;)

gracias

hola me encanto esta jabonera ya hice un par para el unico problema que tengo es que la regilla que sostiene el jabon se safa de los topes del recipiente me podras publicar los archivos en un formato en el cual los pueda rediseñar en adobe inventor desde ya muchas gracias perdon por las molestias

I love it, could be half the height and would still be great! :)

Great Idea we do vacation rentals and would like to get these for our rental properties and home.

This is nice! Doing this as my first project. Thanks for sharing.

Ok, hexagonal pattern plate added as asked! ;)

NICE I CAN USE THIS ONE TIME

If you see this I need help on what 3d printer to buy message me please :/

how just by one it is really expensive

Great stuff ! thanks ! printed fast and very usefull ;)

Comments deleted.

Introducing the soap holder! for those days when you DONT want to drop the soap!

ayyyyyyyyy lmao

Make a lid for this bad boy and you have a travel case combo.

Using infill to generate the grid is clever but I think it would be a lot easier for most people to print if the grid was model as geometry instead. That way they can print with any slicer on any printer.

Ok, on next days we'll upload new designs of the grid ;)

Does this have any sagging/drooping problems in a hot shower? PLA can soften in hot water from a tap, a fact exploited by thw wrist brace featured last week.

So, no way to print it on a Makerbot?:(

plate settings we used:

  • honeycomb infill (10% or less)
  • no top/no bottom
  • 3 perimeters (vertical shells)
    Slicer infill patterns are amazing, you can choose the one you prefer. Just remember to leave enough air to let water pass ;)

Always comes out too thin, not like yours.

Hi! probably it is due to the fact that we used a 0,7mm nozzle and Slider calculates infill on this nozzle size.
If your machine mounts another nozzle just make some tries to find the correct infil settings to let water pass through the plate ;)

hint: in Slicer's advanced settings you can increase infill line width. Another solution is to deceive your machine by setting an oversized nozzle compared to real one (if you have a 0,4 write 0,7 for example): this will increase flowrate and infill pattern will be calculated on that dimension

If you made the plate pattern in slic3r you should probably say what settings you used

sorry we forgot that, thank for the advice :)
now you can find them in the instructions.
Any infill settings will work anyway, just remember to remove top and bottom layers

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