Hybrid annular fan duct

by destroyer2012, published

Hybrid annular fan duct by destroyer2012 Jan 6, 2013
4 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps



Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

14386Views 2066Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories


I wanted to eliminate any barriers to airflow in murat's design, and since I've been using gijs fan duct I figured a combination of the two would be a good idea.

WARNING: This thing does get hot enough to warp if made out of PLA, but I believe that if made out of ABS it can be quite effective. Haven't tried that yet but it's on the todo list. Despite being flexible during printing the fan duct seems to hold up. We'll see how long until creep makes it useless.

UPDATE: Printed in ABS, actually handled the overhangs better than in PLA. The base warped a bit because my fan was going too fast so mounting it was very awkward. Managed to hack something together. Will test soon.

UPDATE2: Printed a hollow calibration pyramid (T:8757) using the new (bigger nozzle, made of ABS) fan duct, looks great! The best I've gotten yet. The next test is whether it will sag during a 10 hour print..

UPDATE3: been using the ABS version for three months now with no issues. It warped a bit initially because a portion of the nozzle touched my heater cartridge, but after mounting the heater cartridge properly it didnt warp further. Still works well!


Print without support. I used 0.16 layer height, 0.5 layer width with blue PLA. There are some pretty gnarly overhangs but it turned out ok. Ideally it should be made out of ABS though.

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

Old fan but this is the one to have when having an UM.
Best fan duct I have tryed.

I just printed one out of ABS for the first time, at 0.1mm layer thickness, I can't believe how much better surface finish it turned out compare to PLA. Maybe the extra temperature or different visco-elestic properties or both, I don't know! I've been putting off printing with ABS, first, because I didn't have a heated bed until recently, second, because of potentially noxious fumes from ABS. I think it is safe as long as it is in a ventilated area or in the garage overnight. Having withnessed the print quality, I'll be definitely printing more out of ABS, that's for sure!

This has been my experience with ABS as well. I don't know why some people say it's harder to print with ABS. Also, it may depend on what color you use. I have always used natural ABS.

Not sure if it's just me or the newer ultimakers have shorter bolts for the gantry. Mine was from one of the first shipments and still using the V1 hot end.

It seems that the bolts are too long and I can't push the duct all the way up to meet the aluminium plate. The left 2 bolts and the back-right one contact the body of the fan duct. Not much of an issue, I just drilled/filed to create clearance and then sealed with hot glue. Not as sexy, but worked in a pinch.

Yes this is a problem I had, but what I did was put some nuts instead of washers (what am I, made of washers?) on top to shorten the screws at the bottom.

Should be entirely possible to use with your new fan, seems like yours is actually smaller than the ultimaker fan, so you would just need to make new holes in the design at the new screw positions, and cover up some of that duct hole to fit the new fan.. I uploaded a STEP version of the design, it should be easy enough to redesign it because the duct part and the fan mount part are separate objects.

Impressive that it printed as a single piece! A thick cardboard heat barrier could be all it needs not to warp due to contact with the aluminium hot plate when printed in PLA...

That is a good idea; the model would have to be redesigned to take into account the thickness of the cardboard. As it is, the bottom of the duct's nozzle is only a few millimeters above the tip of my hot end. If the ABS version melts I will consider redesigning it but for now it holds strong.

Excellent. But i just measured and its too high for me, i only have 12mm of clearance under my x carriage, the arcol v4 hotend is very short :(

you might be interested in http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28900

40MM Fan duct for MendelMax & Prusa

Sad day :( Well I designed this with the Ultimaker in mind. I uploaded the STEP files so you can try to squish the ring.

mmm, when i preview the stl or load it up in netfabb there is a weird artefact in the intake.

Ahh good catch. I forgot to upload the fixed version :) I also added a version with a bigger nozzle to increase the airflow. Untested, but it doesn't have any mesh flaws at least