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sgraber

Prusa i3 Laser Cut Frame and Braces

by sgraber Jan 6, 2013
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It says in the description that M3 bolts and fasteners are used for the braces. This is only partly true.
The holes in the main plate are M3, but the nut trap and "screw trap" on the braces are for M5.
No big deal though as you can just drill out the correct hole in the main plate. Just wanted to let people know, so they can change this before actually using the laser cutter. Otherwise great model, thanks for that!

Hi,
I was looking through the git commits and noticed that the Printrboard mounting holes were removed at one point. Just curious why that was done?

Hello
I want to modify your file because I find a 8mm thickness wood.
Do you have a CAD file with the cotation ?
I use solidworks and when I import the file "frame-6mm-colored-lines.dxf", there no cotation and for example round whole are in several line.

So it's not easy to modify it .

Thanks for help.

I have a question. Will the parts from Prusa i3 Rework be ok with this frame? http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Bill_of_materials

Yes, rework parts fit fine as that is what I am using.

The rework uses 10mm threaded rods. Does the frame need to be modified somehow for them to fit?

Can someone answer this please? I'm looking to build one of these using the rework parts... I'm really unclear as to what rods to buy..

Thank you for your reply. Where did you get the parts? Are there ok? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616
Someone said they were of by 1mm.

Prusa i3 Rework

Lots of things will cause a variance of 1mm. Its not the design but the printer. I bought mine on ebay. Takes about 34 hours to print that many parts

I'd like to propose a tweak to this.

I bought a 16" by 24" ( 406mm x 610mm) piece of acrylic, thinking I had measured it correctly (since you didn't specify total dimensions anywhere).

I was off by about an inch or two.

Resizing the two support wings horizontally by about -10mm each allowed the whole set to fit on one 16x24" piece of acrylic. This is ideal since that equates to much less waste and you can get 6 sets out of 1 4x8 foot sheet of acryllic. This is an easy adjustment in inkscape, but you need to be careful not to resize the hole pattern.

Could you please upload this? I'd be interested.

I've uploaded my modifications to this design to Github

https://github.com/thetazzbot/Prusa3_LC

I've submitted the changes as a pull request to the original author.

Hello. Files body no longer there?
Wanted to find like my printer, but with no result :(

Link to Github is in the Description.

The Github links to josefprusa repo are broken

These are fantastic, thank you! One question for you as I'm new to using these types of designs. How much 6mm acrylic am I going to need for this? I don't see measurements anywhere on the pdfs..

Are brackets really necessary when using a 6mm or more frame?
I am planning on using a 8mm acrylic frame - without brackets - has anyone tried it? and if so, should I be using a different design (less holes?)

Even the Aluminum single frame needs support but doesn't have it. We can add support to it but I wish Josef would stop making half ass designs and on his blog he said he designed the i3 for aesthetics not for functionality.

They are needed, otherwise I wouldn't have added them. ;)

Hi ,It's so amazing. But The https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/tree/jo-finalhttps://github.com/josefprusa/... is can't be opened. Is the plastic parts in fourth picture same with this picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/8426169640/in/photostream/lightbox/?http://www.flickr.com/photos/s...
And https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/sample_stls/single_plate_htd3_lm8uu/x-end.stlhttps://github.com/josefprusa/... is different form the fourth picture.where can I find STL file which is same with fourth picture ? Thank tou so much!

/jo-final was factored out some time ago from the Prusa3 git repo. Any of the parts in the single_plate or box_frame Prusa3 repo folders can be used with this frame.

Thank you so much! I find the file in single_plate, and I used OpenSCAD to open them file successfully.

Great design

Where can I find the DXF laser cutting file?

Can you Change the Bed? With 4 LM8UU? On the Lasercut Version it Crashes on one side to the cable ties.

Hi I got this frame but the only thing i realized i don't see how the wing set the the main frame or how the back part of the y frame is attached? I only see the front part. SO if you can t ell me what size screws or what ever in need to do to get this frame set up proper.

I really like this style frame now i just need to set it up :)

Tommy

It uses 1" #6-32 screws with #6 nyloc nuts and #6 washers, 6 of each.

Thank but do you happen to know what the metric size is for the back screws are?

From the readme on git: "The only additional items added to the i3 bill of materials are the two laser cut braces and six 25mm/1-inch M3/6-32 SAE screws and washers."

I had a doubt which may seem pretty silly. When I open these .dxf files in a .dxf reader and use the measure tool, it shows dimensions much larger than what they should be. For example it shows one side of the frame as more than 9000mm!!. I am sure I am missing something. Can any one help please.

Thanks

Where can I find the DXF laser cutting file?

All DXFs are saved in mm. Make sure you're importing using mm and not inches.

Thanks ..:)..Apologies for the late Kudos..

Hello! Great design ;)

There is a way to obtain a dxf ready for a 9mm MDF? Or I have to edit myself?

You will need to edit it yourself. This frame is strictly for 6mm material.

thank you aniway ;)

Looking really forward to building this. Do you have a link to the exact printed parts/bom used to complete a printer with this frame? I just don't want to complete something which is not compatible in the end. Thanks - sorry, I'm on a low budget and can't afford to spend more than I need to.

Thanks for this great design!

Hi it seems your github us broken as I can't download anything at the moment

You clicked on the ZIP button, right? It worked fine for me.

I bought this kit from SeeMeCNC. Is there any way to clean the burn marks off of the wood or do I have to paint it? And does the campfire smell ever go away?

When you say "clean the burn marks off of the wood" do you mean off the edges or from the surface of the melamine? You can't clean it off the edge. If you want to paint the edges, the easiest way is to leave the masking on and spray paint the edges. When dry, remove the masking.

Yes, the smell goes away. Most of the smell is on the masking and when removed the bulk of the smell will go away. It may take a day or two of airing out as well.

I figured it out. I started to take the package apart and found that the burn marks were on the masking tape layer and it was clean white board underneath. The smell has lessened since I unpacked it.

Hi unfortunately the Prusa3WOOD-v4.dxf also would not open in Acad2010. Could someone on this page try and open the DXF in sgabers github in AutoCad 2010 and email it to me at my user name at gmail dot com. I've got all the parts now to make up the Prusa i3 apart from the frame... And I can't afford shipment from the USA.
I much prefer sgraber's design to josef's design. So could someone help me here?

The PDF didn't work? Opening it in inkscape and exporting it as an AutoCAD compatible file didn't work?

Yup that finally worked and my laser cutting company can finally open a dxf in acad 2010. This trick might be useful for others whose laser cutting company only use acad2010 as well.

Hi Sgraber, I'd much prefer your design than Josef Prusa's so it you could put an acad 2010 compatible dxf in your github listing (Clearly identified) that would be great. I have looked at the ceemecee site and the killer for me is the postage to Europe, hence my request to have an acad 2010 file to give the laser cutting company here in Cluj Romania. (Who only laser cut metal, never wood) so I will be getting 6mm Aluminum ( I think that's how its spelt in the USA). If you don't have Acad 2010 could someone else on this page provide one? It really would be appreciated.

Did this frame file not work? "Prusa3WOOD-v4.dxf" from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/tree/master/single_plate/src/frame/6mmhttps://github.com/josefprusa/....

FWIW Autocad export says it exported fine. Worst case, pull it into Inkscape and save as a PDF.

hey Sgraber, unfortunately my laser cutting company say that they cannot open the dxf files in AutoCad 2010. Can you open this file in acad 2010 or can you please save a copy in this format. This will help me get my frame laser cut.

Thanks! It's actually a concept I'm developing in conjunction with http://SeeMeCNC.comSeeMeCNC.com. Once the design is locked down better and we have a bit of printing on it, we'll release the source files so others can enjoy!

What's your thoughts so far on its design?

Hey sgraber, do you have any idea how long the wait will be for the ace new i3LC files?

thanks

Should be pretty soon! We're just working out the x-motor and x-idler at this point.

Less of Printed Parts.. And the Design can used with minimal Mods on a CNC Machine. With 2 square tubes, the Design can stack 3-4 Printers.

seemecnc was in USA... I in Europe/Germany.. Many thinks i want, was in the USA. But when i buy something, i have VAT and Postage.

One thing, i think you can change.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/8440576070/in/set-72157632677580692http://www.flickr.com/photos/s...

For the Printingbed , Can you make longholes (correct?) for better Calibrate of the Printingbed?

Example what i mean:

http://www.nw-motorsport.de/Uniball%20Domlager_1k.jpghttp://www.nw-motorsport.de/Un...

So the Printingbed can be Calibrated. In your Design it was not possible.

No need for print bed calibration as the holes in the y-carriage line up perfectly with the rods: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/8462274430/in/set-72157632677580692http://www.flickr.com/photos/s...

Constraining the threaded rod is not good as it can (and will) induce z-wobble.

Ok.. Thanks... Wait now for the files...

This is a great little frame. I'm just finally acquiring the correct plastic parts for it, as most Prusa i3 sellers are selling the box-frame parts and I picked up the wrong ones — twice. As a RepRap newbie I expected frames to follow a standard. Now that I know more that sounds funny! Nevertheless I'm adding notes to the published (EtherCalc) BOM to point out the different requirements for this particular frame, both previous and current versions.

One suggestion I have to improve this frame is to move the Mega/RAMPS mounting holes a little higher up. The Arduino Mega's USB port is on the bottom of the unit and most USB cables have long rigid connectors which just barely fit in the vertical region available. A little more space would eliminate some of the kink in these cables.

How much higher (mm?) should I move the RAMPS mounting holes?

That's the one thing I do with all of my Ebay sales - point out exactly which repo I've pulled parts from and which i3 variant I'm selling. FYI I sell the single_plate i3 parts specifically and they're 100% compatible with this frame.

I love it. :) Oh, I haven't been on Thingiverse in about a week now and I come back and I absolutely hate this new format they chose. Frankly the moron who decided they needed to go to a mobile format can kiss my butt. Just sayin'.

Made some minor updates based on an update by Josef Prusa today. See changelog above.

What is the printing volume?

Print volume has not changed. IIRC it's 8"x8"x8".

Thanks for making it easier to build i3. Is it possible to provide template file in SVG/EPS format? I want to get the laser cut frame from Formulor and it accepts only EPS or SVG file. Thanks

I have added an EPS and PDF to the repository. Also, within the next two days I will offer the laser cut frame, braces, and plastic parts on my Ebay store. Also, you can currently purchase the frame + braces cut from SeeMeCNC. Links to both are found above.