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Super uppgrades for Creatr and Creatr XLprinters

by teneopreto, published

Super uppgrades for Creatr and Creatr XLprinters by teneopreto Jul 31, 2014
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Summary

Uppdate 24-11-2015
( I have uppdated the bearing blocks. https://youtu.be/QRKUzB4lhs4

The top rail is not nesseseary, the machine works perfectly, but beacause of the orifginal Creatr design the motor shafts keep failing due to metal fatigue.

The new blocks have reinforsments where needed and its made so you can remove the 2 nutts on the y axis bearing and move the motor sprocket inn in the axsle so the motor shaft wont fail. this new design has run for over 800 hours without insident.

The bearing holes are also enlarged adn are now oversized, you get better bearing function this way just epoxy the slide bearings in place.)

I knew i would get totally fed up with my Creatr's shortcomings soner or later so i have made a bunch of parts with the goal in mind to fix it permanently.
The power chain is in the way, the exstruder carriage is wobbly and very veak.
Here is a video illustrating the problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5jMjxTiCow
It actually warps the exstruder carriage in spite of me having stiffened it up with a 12 mm top rail.

So i am doing some major changes.
Im fixing the x axis, the y axis the exstruders and the cable chain.
It works perfectly, the accurasy is superb and since i have new igus slide bearings on my X axis its tigt as hell 0 drift and no vibrations at all.
http://youtu.be/2J2w01iNqAI
Now my printer makes perfect parts every time, and i can use the entire build volume.
Each of the improvements are available in stand alone versions.
This is the combination version with slightly different parts.

Do not try to do this unless you have the patience and know what you are doing
PS: you dont actually need the top rail anymore, its stiff as hell and works wonderfull without it.

Instructions

Instruktions will be posted on as i develope the solution http://www.kundesalg.no.

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Hello, in your explanatory file, I saw that you had mounted the aluminum profile on the front, why?

The frame of the printer is to flexible for me, espesially if you like me uppgrade to a better hotend and print at higher speeds.

When printing pay attention to how you printer behaves, and you might want to do the same on yours.

Hello , I would like to make changes to my creatr , your solution parrait me very well , do you have pictures of pieces you print , is that impressions are better?
Is what to print parts PLA or ABS ?

Thank you for your answers, and sorry for my English is very bad .

Danny

You can just click on my profile and look at the other parts i make vith the new setup. i do both plastics and flex and nylon as well

Thank you for your quick response , I have to print all ABS supports ?

ABS works fine i have tried ABS and PLA both work great

Hi Kentthoresen,

Messaged you a while back about the missing instruction manual, still can't seem to find it on your site. I also noticed that the new right bearing block stl file is missing. Could reupload the file please?

Kind regards,

Julius Blaauw

yes it keeps getting hacked, for some reason only the uppgrade instructions get attacked., il re upload the right side bearing block

this version doesnt need the top rail and bearing, its stiff as hell just with the blocks.

Thank you! I was also wondering if it is necessary to use the drylin bearing? Because i can't seem to find a webshop that sells them to consumers who tend to use them for personal use.

Kind regards,

Julius

Drlin are simply the best, if you order from their website http://www.igus.com/ they will probably connect you with the closest distributor.

I downloaded the right bearing block stl file! Thank you so much! Strange that only the instructions manual gets hacked. Could you maybe email the instructions? I'll send you a private message with my email adres.

Kind regards,

Julius

I tried upploading a pdf version of the instructions to the thing.

Hey Kentthoresen,

I can't seem to download your instructions, do you have a different link to the instructions?

Kind regards,

Julius

Yea sorry about that somone hacked the server and i havent had a chance to get it back up. Ill try to find a backup and get it back up.

What bearing blocks I need for the igus bearings ?

left_bearing_block-v7.stl and right_bearing_block-v7.stl ?

I printed both blocks and the igus bearings don't fit :(
could you please check this, cause i really want to get this on my printer :)

or if you want, could you send me the original files? (or upload them here)

regards yeanzo

The bearing holes will be a bit tight, i ground mine out, The holes need to be tight enogh to hold the bearings while moving, since plastic contracts at different rates according to quality etc i opted for undeersised holes.

http://kundesalg.no/images/Superuppgrade/bearing_hole.jpeg

If you want i can make one version with oversized holes and you can epoxy the bearings in place?

  • I have upploaded a newversion with oversize holes where you epoxy the bearings in place...

Yes It is
DryLin® R - RJUM-01- 12

http://www.igus.eu/wpck/2407/DryLin_R_Lineargleitlager

PS you actually dont need the top rail if you use the igus bearings they make the assembly exstreamly stable

okay awesome :)

Hi, i printed both bearing blocks, but the right one has a bearing hole of 22mm and the left one has 23mm and some notch in 1 hole, is there a mistake ? or is it supposed to be like this ?

regards yeanzo

?? No actually its supposed to be 23 on both. It looks like the right block has reverted back to an earlier version.

I have uppdated the right bearing block with the correct file

The Notch is not suppose to be there either it is not present in the correct upploaded version?

I am printing these upgrades atm,
i only have 1 question, i see that there are bearing blocks for igus bearings,

can you tell me what type it is ? is it the "RJUM-01-12"

regards,
Yeanzo

PS: when printing the bearing mounts make sure that your part doesnt warp, i started making the part in PLA with 60% infill and i use a large raft.

I gring out the bearing holes with sand paper so that it fits perfectly.

Make sure you test the bearing resistance, it schould be no harder moving the part on the bearing rod with one or both bearings mounten.

IF YOU EXPERIENCE HIGHER RESISTANCE WITH BOUTH BEARINGS MOUNTED YOUR BEARINGS ARE NOT ALIGNED THE PART IS WARPED AND YOUR BEARINGS WILL FAIL IN Å VERY SHORT TIME.

so make sure your bearings are aligned.

The left hand bearing mount has cracked twise for me, i recomend re enforsing the print by gluing a strip of aluminium on the side.

Its almost done just the side bearing mounts makes it stiff as hell and very accurate.

i only have a few adjustments left on the top railing mount before its completely done, ready for full testing

Looks great.
Can't wait to try it all out

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