by Yoctopuce, published

Anemometer by Yoctopuce Jan 11, 2013
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16241Views 4636Downloads Found in Physics & Astronomy


Anemometer: allows you the estimate wind speed though USB when used with a Yocto-Knob.


These are plastic parts needed to build an USB anemometer. These are meant to be used with a Yocto-knob ( www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/usb-sensors/yocto-knob ), but any electronics able to count pulses, such as Raspberry PI or Arduino, would do as well. You will find here instructions for assembly. Details about electronics and programming can be found on our blog: www.yoctopuce.com/EN/article/how-to-measure-wind-part-1

This thing is assembled using screws and brass threaded inserts. This allows to assemble and disassemble it quickly and easily. Moreover, the final assembly is rock solid.

Additional Hardware
You will need some non-printable hardware to build this thing.
- A 3mm led as powerful as possible, e.g. L7104SRC/J from Kingbright
- A 3mm phototransistor, e.g. : SFH 310-2/3 from OSRAM
- A 150 ohms resistor
- Electric wire
- A Yocto-Knob or equivalent
- A 3mm axle
- Two 3x10x4 stainless bearing ex: xiros® B180 from www.igus.com
- M3 and M2.5 threaded inserts, such as BN 1036 - DIN 16903 B from www.bossard.com
- M3 and M2.5 screws
- M3 headless screws
- Optionally, a 16mm rod and a PG.M0.4GL.LN connector from LEMO.

-Glue gun
-Various screw drivers
-Solder iron

Mounting steps
Solder the wire on both LED and phototransitor, the short legs are the minus. Then glue them in the led holders, use a glue gun.

Place the threaded inserts in all the parts with a solder iron, All are 3mm inserts, except the one for the led holders.

Screw the LED holders on body top and bottom parts. Place the bearings.

Force the sensor wheel on the axle and place it on the bottom part.

Mount the body, make sure the sensor wheel turns freely with no friction, if needed use washers.

Assemble the rotor, notice the headless screws used to lock it on the axle. You can make spacers from a brass 3mm tube, and force them into to the hub parts to make sure plastic wont bend when you tighten the headless screws.

Assemble the body and the rotor. Optionally you can use the support. The support is designed to mount the anemometer on a 16mm rod and connect it with a PG.M0.4GL.LN connector

Assembly is complete, now you need to wire it and to calibrate it. For more info on the electronics and programming, see www.yoctopuce.com/EN/article/how-to-measure-wind-part-1

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What material do you recommend for this object: PLA, ABS or PETG? Would ABS be a good sturdy material?

We made it of ABS since our printer only use ABS. But after a few years outdoor, ABS tends to turn brittle. Some UV resistant coating might help.

Hello there.
How many units of each STL part should I print?
Maybe: 3 units for cup.stl and 2 units for led_holder.stl, and all other 1 unit? Is there any other configuration?
All the best,

Correct. 3 units for cup.stl and 2 units for led_holder.stl, and all other 1 unit.

Hi! Very good job! very good cuality design! but y have one dude you have code for arduino for ? thank you!

Unfortunately we are not in the Arduino business: Arduinos do not feature any proper USB host port... so we don't have any Arduino code.... :-)

Actually these parts where printed on a Dimension Elite 3D printer. This printer features soluble support, so we didn't have to care about problems with hangovers. Moreover this printer is entirely automatic, there is no settings except layer thickness. I'm afraid I won't we able to help you.

Could you provide print settings? I am fairly new to 3d printing and I have built my own Prusa Mendel. Is this model meant for extrusion? I was able to edit the cups and body STL files for printing, and they turned out rather nicely, but other components such as the body top and bottom do not seem possible to print?

Very nice design ! I started to build such anemometer (and a wind vane), some months ago, but didn't find the time to finish it yet:


I don't use optical encoding, as it will, sooner or later, become too dirty to work. Both are based on a magnetic encoding. But your controller is very interesting: magnetic encoding also generate pulses, so it should work :o)

Thanks. Be aware that the Yocto-Knob it meant to be used with resistive components only.